Acura - TL :: 2000 Not Starting / Just Grinding And Will Not Turn Over
Jul 22, 2014
I have a 2000 Acura TL with 225,224 miles, runs very good. Recently it has not been starting all the time. Just grinds and not turn over. If I wait a while then try again, it will start and run very good. Mechanic could not duplicate problem. Checked everything he could think of even all the computers, could not find anything wrong. What to do now? I read that someone had the same problem with a 1995-or 98 (?) with their Acura Integra and the dealer could not resolve the problem.
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I have a 1989 Acura Integra standard shift. Without any pattern, the car won't start. All the lights come on when I turn the key but there is no sound indicating it trying to turn over. If I leave it alone for a little while, it will often start. By the way, this never happens in the morning even in below freezing temperatures.
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I have an Acura 2000 TL. My car all of a sudden stopped starting. I called AAA and the tow truck driver did some repair like thing. The car started after this. He told me, there was a problem with the remote starter or security alarm issue. After that the car starts but the immobilizer light is completely off. It gives P1607 OBDII code. When I looked under the dash, I saw a black button and pressed on it. It gave some clicks and nothing happened. I pressed on it and turn the ignition switch on and off a couple of times and nothing happened. I pushed on the button while pressing on the brake peddle and released within 2 seconds etc. The car has a Code Alarm remote start with two button fob and it was disabled. I don't know whether the AAA driver enabled it causing the immobilizer bypass to actuate to have the P1607 code. The car starts ! What can I do to get the Code Alarm remote start to disable it?
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1987 Acura Integra Automatic, 160k I have been noticing - mostly for every start (there are a few in between that did not have that sound).
When starting, a loud sound (some what unbearable) heard and was hesitant and then the engine starts. Once started it runs fine. It is not the usual sound that the ignition makes when going bad.
What seems to be the issue? Right after I drained and filled AT fluid, it heard the first time. I have been doing AT fluid since nearly 10yrs ago with Honda fluid. I only did drain and fill and it went smoothly. In 2007, the tranny was replaced. After starting, the car runs smoothly - it is only when starting or just before engine try to start. Batt and alternator tests fine.
It hardly did it today - I might have once heard a girding sound just before starting.
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I have a 2004 Acura MDX with about 115K miles on it. I recently heard a slight grinding sound as the car accelerated, and I took it to the dealer for a check. The mechanic there recommended replacing the Torque Converter - a $4000 job, more or less.
Not wanting to spend that much unless it was necessary, I took it to my local mechanic. He says the torque converter is fine - that I would feel serious shaking and problems shifting if it needed replacement. And he said the grinding sound is normal for a car with so many miles on it. He says the differential gets noisy as the mileage goes up.
Who's right? And if the problem is the differential, can I just keep driving it - as long as the noise doesn't bother me?
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We have a 2006 Acura MDX, 96K miles, well maintained. It has started making a disturbing scraping/grinding/humming noise from under the car, driver's side. It's random, sporadic, usually for 3 to 5 seconds; doesn't seem to be related to speed, braking or turning; sometimes barely perceptible, sometimes very loud. It drives fine. Wheel bearing maybe?
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When I make a left turn I have a horrible grinding noise. Only when I turn left and at any speed.
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My wife and I have a Nissan Quest 2000. Our vehicle broke down last November 21, 2010 and the mechanic replaced the alternator and the battery. Our vehicle worked fine after that, but two weeks ago the battery cable came loose and I had to have that fix, by another mechanic. Our van worked fine for a week and now the Quest takes 15-30 minutes to turn over. What is wrong?
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I have a 1996 Acura RL 3.5 with the premium package, if that makes any difference. When I start the car, i hear a buzzing sound which sounds like it is coming from the ABS system. The ABS light comes on continuously until the buzzing stops, then turns off. I was told by the mechanic that Honda no longer makes the system to flush the ABS system, which would likely fix my problem but instead said I would need to put in a new ABS pump and put in a refurbished accumulator-cost $1600+, more if I put in all new parts.
I want to disable it because I can't afford that sort of repair and the brakes work fine with the ABS. The mechanic said they would do it but it is "illegal" for them to do so. I have the manual for the under the hold fuse box, it has 4 fuses for ABS listed. ABS Unit, ABS B2, ABS B1 and ABS Motor. Which ones do I pull and is there anything else I would need to do to disable it.
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2000 Acura Integra 98k miles. Around 90k timing belt, water pump and all sealants were done - and valve adjustment.
Since then I thought that there is a minor loss of coolant - also heard some grinding sound at cold start.
Today in calif, weather is under freezing. I saw handful of coolant under the car where the water pump is. The reserve tank is almost empty - at 95k coolant was topped up.
I went to another mechanic and he wanted to bring the car next week - he will try pressure test - if it is minor leak, it might not work he said - will do other tests. Didn't say the price. Not sure what the fee is for diagnostic.
What are some practical tips? This is the first car now and plan on keeping it. Given it is been about 2yrs with the timing belt job, I am not sure if I have any recourse. Credit card companies only take care if it is within 2 yrs.
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I have a 2009 Acura TSX that I bought used ~85,000 miles on it. It has been inspected 5 times and each mechanic says the car is basically new in perfect condition. However, it has an extremely difficult time starting after sitting in cold temperatures for more than about 12 hours. If I drive it every 8 hours or so it is fine. Everything has been checked repeatedly; alternator, wiring, battery connection etc. .. . The battery is only 3 months old.
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I was looking at a 2000 Acura TL, and although I haven't driven it yet, when I searched for "2000 Acura TL problems", it brought up plenty of references to the transmission issues that they had.
From my quick read, there seems to be a couple of different things that the dealers did when servicing the transmissions under the recall or extended warranty. Many of the posts seem to disagree on what determined whether the serviced transmissions would last or not, or would have to go back in for additional repair/replacement.
That would be a nice car, but I am not willing to deal with transmission issues if they are more likely than your average car.
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I have a 2005 nissan maxima that won't start. I have a new starter and battery. When I turn the key everything in the car comes on except for the car (it also makes no sound when you turn the key). I checked to see if it was the ignition switch by bridging the connection on the starter with a screw driving. The starter comes on but the car wont start. It tried starting it in neutral (still doesn't work). It's not the security because the light turns off when you try to start it.
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2000 Acura Integra Auto ... Replaced the radiator through Kragen (O'Reilly)Didn't come with a cap - using the existing one.If you tighten it, it goes around through 360 degrees ...
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I'm trying to figure what's going on with my car I drove it fine home then when I turned it off and tried to immediately afterwards adjust the parking the car wouldn't turn on with the clutch engaged. Tried several times to turn the engine then gave up. Next day I adjusted the pedal and pushed the pedal all the way to the floor and it came on.
But now I have the issue of the check engine light being on And VSA light checked the code and it says U0107 and the car won't go above 2000rpm. We tried changing the app sensor and it worked for a split second then went back to the code. Checked the battery voltage and battery is good. I then changed the throttle control relay under the glove box and still nothing.
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My 2000 Integra with 180,000 miles that never gave me a moment of trouble, stalled at a stop sign and hasn't started since. The info:
1. Engine cranks
2. Check Engine light comes on and then goes off after a few seconds (assume no error code)
3. Removing a spark plug shows spark
4. All fuses ok
5. Fuel pump relay ok
6. Removed fuel filter, turned on ignition (not trying to crank), fuel is coming through. There isn't much pressure, the fuel comes out like a water fountain. I assume the fuel pump is ok.
My thinking is that I either don't have spark or I don't have fuel. The spark looks ok. The fuel pump is moving fuel, I don't know if the pump can fail in a way that moves fuel but at too low a pressure. Is there another device, in the fuel delivery system, between the pump and the cylinder that I can check?
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Engine will turn over but not start. it is getting spark and gas I checked coil, replaced plugs and distrib. I checked timing and firing order. Since there is spark and gas shouldn't I at least get a backfire?
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The last few days, when I would start my 1990 Acura Integra (morning or afternoon after sitting at work), it had just the slightest hesitation before the engine would start or "turn over", if that is the correct term.
Sometimes I just thought I did not have the clutch engaged the whole way and did not worry. This morning I went to start it and it hesitated again, but now won't start at all..makes the clicking starter sound after a second attempt, but nothing else. NO lights were left on!
The Battery (Duralast Gold 8 year battery) was replaced in Feb 2011, the Distributor in August 2011 and the Distributor in 2007. Could it be the latter?
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I have a 2000 acura tl with almost 200,000 miles on it. When I drive it for more than an hour, park to run errands then get back in after say 15 minutes the car will spit and sputter and die. In order to leave I have to hold my foot on the gas and break to force it to stay running. I run premium gas and in the winter I use seafoam additive with every fill up but it doesn't seem to work. This problem is more prevalent during the winter months; my mechanic is telling me the fix will cost 1200 for a full ecu reflash to fix it.
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2000 Integra with 95k miles in an excellent condition - used pedal jack when parked
I had to make a left turn and ramp up so put it on D3 - I pressed the accelerator and when I felt the speed could be higher (I am not comfortable to drive up the hills) so I must have pressed hard on the accelerator. It then responded
Not sure what was happening, I started breaking and steering - still around 30mph, guessing - it was not a wild drive.
Still not satisfied, I moved to gear 2 and stopped the car. Realized the car is still pulling, turned off the engine and realized the accelerator pedal is stuck.
I pulled it and it has been fine! With the engine off, I pushed the pedal hard and it always bounced back. Not sure that the getting in and out the pedal jack had been interferring with the accel pedal. It also looks like the engineers did a good job that with the stuck accel pedal, I did not end up in a wild drive - I had to brake and move the tranny to 2 but was able stop it - it was a mild up the hill, but unsure if it played a big role.
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my ignition immobilizer would not let me start my 2000 Acura several times during the past week. seems to start fine after a long cool down, or after sitting over night, but after a short trip it acts up, sometimes taking as long as 1 hour of repeated attempts to start. is this something as simple as changing the key fob battery, or is it in the ignition, or is it something in the shifter?? i only have 68k miles.
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