Acura - TL :: 1999 - Engine Just Cuts Out At Times
Apr 16, 2011
I have a 99 TL. The car generally runs well, but at times,the engine just cuts out. I can be traveling 55 mph and the engine will just stall. Usually it starts right up. I can also be running well, and when it idles it will stall. Otherwise, at times, it starts with no problem. Other times it will turn over, but not start until many tries. I have replaced most of the sensors. No check engine lights comes on, so there is no way to accurately diagnose the problem.
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I have a 99 acura TL. The car generally runs well, but at times, and without warning the engine will stop. I can be driving at 70 and it will stop. Usually it starts back up again right away.
Sometimes it will be a little harder to restart, requiring up to ten times to restart. The it runs perfectly.I have replaced a number of sensors as well as the EGR valve. I just can't seem to figure this out.
As of right now check engine comes on. Prior to that other codes have come on. When it stalls, it just stops cold. There is no warning and no indication it is going to stall.
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I have a 2007 Acura TSX with 117k miles. We had the rotors and pads replaced in July of 2014 at Midas (won't go back there again!). Anyway, we are getting a pulsating in the steering wheel (shaking) when braking at times. Sometimes it is much more noticeable than others. This started shortly after having the pads/rotors installed. I took it back to Midas, and of course they couldn't duplicate the issue.
So, here's my question, can we continue to drive the car until it needs new pads (then I'll change the pads and rotors)? I know that the steering vibration can be annoying at times (it's not AWFUL, but you can tell that they're warped). I really hate to have to replace both right now as money is pretty tight with buying a house.
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MT 2500 Where are you I've got a weird one. 99 Chevy 5.7 dully dump truck. The engine cuts out while driving at 3000rpms only. If you keep your foot in it it goes away at 3200. Does it in any gear(auto). Also, stopped and in park, it will do it at 4000rpms. Acts like a rev limiter. Fuel pressure does not change (60-62psi) when this happens, does it in open or closed loop. I disconnected the maf and no change. I've installed new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, module(all original with 165K), no change. Runs sensational until 3K rpms.
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I have a 99 ford e350 5.4 gas engine - When driving 35 to 40 engine cuts in & out loss of power. Engine light not on? at idle runs ok.
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The engine in my truck sometimes cuts out seems to be at idle. Takes a lot of cranking together going. Might be related but the electric fuel pump seems to run every time I turn the key on and if i sit with key off and the engine not going. I hear the pump come on again. No external leaks can be seen.
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Shifting from 2 to 3rd seems to hold too long (surging) in many instances. 1st to 2nd is always perfect and smooth. Also it seems to engine brake (rather than gliding) at times when I take my foot off the gas. This is not desirable.
I plan to change the ATF and filter soon. I don't expect this to work but it is a good to do it since it has not been done. VW says it is a life time fill. I am not getting a check engine light.
Is this something that can be modified with software using a VAG Com diagnostic system or similar? Is this indicative of some other issue?
1999 VW Jetta with 01m automatic...
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Yesterday my truck began to give me some problems starting. The engine turns over just a couple of times then it sounds like the starter disengages and winds up. it took multiple attempts but it finally fired up. Does this sound like the starter or could it possibly be the starter relay?
2002 F350 CCLB Lariat 7.3
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Ignition coil replaced twice in 3 weeks, engine still cuts out randomly and "service engine soon" light flashes on.
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Should the engine block of an 2005 Acura RL crack if the car's maintenance has been regular and complete according to all dealer specified recommendations? Cooling system never stopped working either. What else could cause the engine block to crack?
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Every few weeks my Acura TL 08 loses power while driving. I am able to brake, stop, then restart the engine. A dealer mechanic drove the thing for a week trying to replicate the problem. Another garage has done a bunch of usual diags. We replaced the ignition switch. Still happening, with no obvious pattern.
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Recently I noticed my car vibrates to left and right when I hit the pedal and the speed is around 40mph and above. The car runs smooth if I maintain the speed.The car has 176K and running quite good and I am about to have the timing belt service.I am just curious what could cause this: timing belt? fuel filter? The car is 2001 acura TL so it has front wheel drive.
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Why my 99 Acura would die out in hot weather? This seems to happen especially if the AC has been on. (I am pretty sure that this exact thing was discussed on the radio about a month ago but I forgot what they said!).
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I have an F-150 with a 5.4L EFI and A/T. For the past two days while driving along the engine just cuts out. There is no chugging or sputtering. It just dies. When it happens, I place the trans in Neutral while still rolling along and it starts right up.
I had suspected it might have been a bad eec relay and connector that I had trouble with in the past, but I changed that all yesterday and the problem happened again today.
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2004 Acura MDX, check engine light came on. Got code checked: P0741, supposed to be switch or torque converter. My mechanic won't do transmission work, so took to dealer. They drained fluid, no metal shavings. Now they want to replace transmission, said it has internal damage. It wasn't running badly, a little slippage here and there. Don't think it really needs replaced.
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I recently had my rear engine mount replaced on my 2004 Acura TSX. It was originally identified by the original dealer as requiring replacement and when I took it to anther Mechanic he also verified this and during the replacement he showed me the original engine mount which had a definitive crack.
After installation the Mechanic indicated that the car would feel a little stiff for a while and would smooth out over time. What I found after the first couple of days is that the engine seems to have a significant vibration when I am in idle or after I brake. When the car is in motion there is still a vibration but it is not very noticeable. I just remember from prior feel of the vehicle. This vibration did not exist prior to replacing the rear engine mount.
Is this expected to be normal until I put miles on it. The Acura is a 2004 but only has 75,000 miles. I don't drive it very much but I am concerned that the vibration I feel when I brake may be creating additional damage.
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Engine will turn over but not start. it is getting spark and gas I checked coil, replaced plugs and distrib. I checked timing and firing order. Since there is spark and gas shouldn't I at least get a backfire?
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I have Acura 1996 3.2 and its a great car but about 2 months ago the Check engine light is on and when i try to accelerate on highway or just on high speed it wont go in the next gear at the moment but when I am gonna press the pedal harder suddenly it will accelerate in a second. Also when I am standing on the traffic light the dashboard starts shaking and its a feeling like a car is going to turn off. Its an automatic. And this happens more frequently when the tank is full.
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The last few days, when I would start my 1990 Acura Integra (morning or afternoon after sitting at work), it had just the slightest hesitation before the engine would start or "turn over", if that is the correct term.
Sometimes I just thought I did not have the clutch engaged the whole way and did not worry. This morning I went to start it and it hesitated again, but now won't start at all..makes the clicking starter sound after a second attempt, but nothing else. NO lights were left on!
The Battery (Duralast Gold 8 year battery) was replaced in Feb 2011, the Distributor in August 2011 and the Distributor in 2007. Could it be the latter?
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I have a 1994 Celica 1.8L ST which cut off on me while driving. I have been trying to troubleshoot the problem. Here's what I've done so far:
Originally after the engine would cut off I could get it to start again, but there came a point when it wouldn't start. I ended up replacing the ignition coil, and immediately the car fired up again and was running. However, the check engine light was now on and the engine had far less power and was running very rough. Nevertheless, the car was still working and would no longer cut off. Thus, I took the car to Precision Auto Tune to get a diagnostic test done, and they told me the distributor was bad.
I then purchased a new distributor and replaced the old one. Immediately the check engine light disappeared so I took the car out for a test drive and it ran perfectly; yet, after ten minutes, the engine suddenly cut off while driving down the road. After coasting the car to a place to park, it refused to start again. I left it overnight, tried starting it the next day and it randomly started. It ran for 10 minutes again in park before cutting off again. Since then, i thought the new distributor was faulty and exchanged it for another, but the engine still cuts off after running and refuses to start again. However, when it refuses to start, if I install the old "faulty" distributor, the car starts without a problem, but the check engine light also appears.
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I've got a 2003 Volvo S60 with close to 121,000 miles on it.
Last winter, my Engine cut out on me as I was taking a sharp right onto my home street. At first, I thought I hit an icy patch and my car had skidded, but then I realized the engine was off, but all the lights on my dashboard were on (including all the warning/alert lights). I put the car in park, turned my key into the off position, then tried to start it up. It immediately started. Other factors: There was snow and I had just recently exited the highway.
Everything seemed to be going pretty well until this winter (in Connecticut) when my car cut out on me again. Just like before, I assumed I had hit an icy patch as the car seemed sluggish and unresponsive (and it had just snowed). Again, it happened as I was taking a right turn, and it's happened about three times since.
Today was the first time it happened as I was making a left turn. Luckily, I was the last car in the turning lane, and I managed to get my car more or less close to the shoulder and put my hazard lights on (as traffic was now approaching), and Nik Nak rebooted just as before.
I used to think the cold/snow had something to do with it, but it was 50 degrees today. Also, I'm not entirely sure, but I think the wheel may have been turned as far as it could go. I honestly can't remember if that was the case the other times it cut out. I plan on experimenting in a parking lot tomorrow to see if turning the wheel all the way is causing it.
What might be causing it? (And besides not turning the steering wheel all the way, how this problem may be fixed?)
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