Acura - RL :: 1998 - When Turn Key In Ignition Dashboard Is Illuminated But Starter Does Not Engage
Aug 11, 2013
When I insert the key, there is current to the dashboard and the steering wheel moves into position. When I try to start the car, the dashboard is illuminated- the radio comes on etc- but the starter does not engage all. It's totally quiet. I remove the key, insert the key and try again. Sometimes the starter engages, sometimes not. When it cranks, it starts right up. The battery is good. We had the ignition switch changed out a while back, but it didn't really improve the situation.
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I have a 1998 Accord EX 4-cylinder that will not start. When I turn the key the starter does not engage. The green key indicator on the instrument panel looks like it recognizes the key security chip.
When I checked for voltage at the starter solenoid coil wire I found about 9.0 volts without turning the key. When I turned the key I got a little over 11 volts. I disconnected the wire to the solenoid coil and measured 0 volts from the coil wire to the battery BUT 9.0 volts from the tab on the solenoid valve to the battery. It makes me think something is shorted to the frame of the starter.
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I have a 1989 Acura Integra standard shift. Without any pattern, the car won't start. All the lights come on when I turn the key but there is no sound indicating it trying to turn over. If I leave it alone for a little while, it will often start. By the way, this never happens in the morning even in below freezing temperatures.
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Replaced starter after which when i turn key to on position starter will engage and actually start engine; turn to accessory and starter will engage but wont start engine. Checked double checked and so on installation. And then exchanged for another rebuilt starter with same results. the reason for replacing the starter in the first place was during the winter went out to start to let motor run fur a while which it did. Went to move before completely warmed up and killed engine starter never made another sound. 1978 gmc 6000....
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Developed a problem that I'm trying to research a bit to see if there is a common problem. Haven't really seen too much info yet, other than a potential clutch switch that will continue to display "depress clutch!" That's not my problem.
I don't drive this thing more than once a month or so. But occasionally I'll drive it to work for week or less.
Basically, every once in a while I'll try to start the engine and the starter will engage and turn the engine for about 1/2 second and then stop. All lights on the dash stay on. I'll reset the key, and it will usually then start normally on the next try. Sometimes it does the same thing on the second attempt.
Battery is 100% topped up, as it stays on a battery tender. Battery load test shows great. Connections are tight and clean.
The other day I cleaned the main B+ terminal on the starter, made sure the terminal jamb nut was tight and cleaned; then assembled the terminal and torqued. Removed, cleaned and re-torqued the top bolt on the starter. Cleaned and re-tightened the main grounds. Also cleaned the solenoid connection and made sure it fit back on securely.
Was fine for about 6 starts then it did the same thing again.
The last work I did on the car was a clutch upgrade (myself)...literally almost a year ago. I've driven it about...500 or less miles since. So I'd have assumed bad starter connections, but I think I've ruled those out. I didn't drop the subframe, just the transmission. the problem did start pretty much immediately after that job and hadn't done it at all before that job.
So what other interconnects are in the system to control the starter? Relays, control modules, switches, sensors...I'm sure all of the above. Something is allowing the starter to turn for 1/2 second and then drops it.
Perhaps the battery is dropping below voltage while cranking and something is aborting the start?
I haven't really done much diagnosing other than a simple load test on the battery. I haven't taken voltage readings under cranking, voltage drops across wires or voltage readings at terminals yet. Ugh..I really just don't feel like it. Maybe I'll just dump the car into the Pasquotank River.
Not that it really matters, but I've also installed an APR K04, full exhaust, Carbino intake...I don't know what else. But it was all done quite a while ago, by me. This second clutch I've done seems to have been the thing that triggered this particular problem.
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My Nissan sentra will start on the coldest day, but now that it's getting warmer it sometimes won't start! Turn the key and I have power to everything, but engage the starter and nothing! Not even a click! Try and try and eventually it starts. What could cause this??
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My neighbor has a 2008 Grand prix V8 that won't turn over. When the ignition is turn on the starter does not turn and then the horn honks once, you hear clicking sounds in the engine compartment and inside the car and the service display goes through each system indicating that it needs service. We unsuccessfully tried jumping the battery.
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I have 2007 Santa Fe LTD which will intermittently not start. All electrical devices work fine but when you turn the key the starter will not engage. Keep trying the key and after 5-10-100 try's the car will start. The next time it may start on the first attempt or it might not. Sometimes it will go weeks without a problem then it will not start again. I have checked the starter relay, battery, and cables. It seems like the alarm is faulty and not letting the power get to the starter.
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Neighbor bought a 91 tracker. We put a new battery and alternator in it. We have to jump the vehicle to get it to start. While running with the light on, the lights are extremely dim. Sometimes the vehicle will start again, but most times it won't. What I mean by it won't start is nothing happens when you turn the key. No clicking starter does not engage. Sometime the car will not stay running with out charger attached. Then again sometimes everything is fine.
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After getting the oil changed in my 1997 Ford F-150 4.6L with 150K miles at a local quick lube, I made one stop and my truck wouldn't start. I could hear the starter engage the flywheel, but couldn't turn it over at all. Oil was clean and full. I bench tested the starter and it tests good. I put a breaker bar on the crankcase nut and I could barely move it. Oil level was about 2 quarts low before oil change.
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I have a 2001 supercab 4x4 with a 4.6 in it, it has 186k on it and the only issues I've had was a misfire not to long ago. I replaced the plugs and coil packs and fixed that issue. 2 days ago she ran fine with no issues and this morning I went out to go to the store and she wouldn't start. All the dash lights come on and all of that normal stuff when you turn the key. When I turn the key I hear what sounds kind of like a clunking noise towards the bottom of the windshield and the middle of the dash. The starter does not engage, no nothing, really confused here. I thought maybe the battery was bad so I put my jumper on it and tried but again nothing happened.
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I have a 2006 Santa Fe with 137K miles on it. Has been best car I ever owned, but have recently experienced a strange issue where it won't start, meaning I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the right and nothing, not even a click on the starter. I have found if I move the shifter around from P to R to D, etc. and then try it again it will start. Is there a safety interlock switch in the shifter that could be going bad and is therefore not satisfied/happy when I try to start the car? Or could the ignition hardware where I insert the key be the issue.
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I have a 2001 BMW 330i. The car has been a dream since the beginning but lately issues have risen to the surface. Today, when I turned off the ignition all the dashboard lights remained on. The keys in hand, lights off, nothing else on, but the dashboard was lit up light a christmas party. I recently recharged my battery, a problem, I think, caused by the cold temperatures.
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I have a 2010 Yaris 1.3 motor. Sometimes when I turn the ignition on it seems to keep wanting to start?
meaning it sounds like the starter motor isn't disengaging when the motor turns over, its been back to teh dealer twice now, someone suggested a relay?
I am taking it back again tonight for the auto sparkie to look at. The last time it did this I had to manually turn the car off to stop it turning over.
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I have a 1998 Dodge Caravan with just over 50,000 miles on it. This summer It started having this issue where when I turned the key, all I got was a click, and then nothing. The starter wouldn't turn over, but all other electronics seemed to be working properly. If I continued to try turning the key (2 or 3 times) eventually the starter would engage and the car would start right up. Assuming a bad connection somewhere I cleaned the battery posts, and a couple other connections I could get to, and the problem seemed to go away. About a month later the same issue started up again, and I was able to fix it the same way.
About a month and a half ago, I went to start my car, turned the key, and NO click. After turning the key a couple times the car would start as before. Then the next time I tried to start the car I again got nothing. On the third try the starter turned over, but only a few times before it died (and it sounded like it was really struggling to turn over too). The fourth time I turned the key the car started right up. This new behavior continued for about a week and then I took it into the shop.
At the shop they first started by cleaning all the connections, which did nothing. Next they put in a new starter which also didn't fix the problem. On the off chance the new starter was bad, they tried a second new starter, and again the problem continued. Finally they pulled out the wiring harness and found 3 "Bad wires" which they replaced. The then also concluded that the bad wires were causes the starter to short out, and that is why the two new starters they tried didn't work. They gave me a new starter, and that in conjunction with the new wires seemed to fix the problem.
Now, every few weeks, I'll go to turn the key, and all I'll get is a click again. The second time i turn the key, however, the car will start right up. This issue maybe happens more when its cold in the morning, but it hasn't happened enough for me to be sure. The clicking issue doesn't bother me that much because the car always starts, but I'm worried that the problem will just get worse again. Did my mechanic actually fix the problem I had? Or am I going to need to take it back in to the shop in a couple of months and put another new starter in? Also, I have had my battery tested three times throughout all of this, and it always comes back fine.
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Starts fine most of the time. Then suddenly key will turn but not engage ignition. Power OK to everything but ignition. Have replaced starter & ignition module. Still does the same thing. Leave for a while & truck starts fine. 2006 F250 6 litre diesel ...
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as stated I have a '98 taurus and whenever I try to start it, the key gets locked in the ignition. I can turn the key to just before starting with the car in neutral and it will start, but not with it in park. Also the turning signals are intermitten at best. Brake lights and tail lights work fine.
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2012 350, crew, 4x4, 6.7, LB. Ignition does not always engage when you turn the key (we've changed the tumbler and the batteries) after sometime the truck will start. the dome lights do not work in auto anymore and every so often the steering will "grab" to the left, when I compensate it will switch to the right. I can drive from 20 - 300 miles sometimes before it does this and then it may or may not come out of it right within 5 - 20 minutes.
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My Neon needed a water pump. At 204K miles the timing belt should be replaced also. The pump and belt were replaced. The motor started and the car drove about 1000ft. and stopped. There was no more spark. The car was checked to make sure that the timing belt is on correctly. The cam points to top dead center when the #1 cylinder is at peak and the crankshaft is at top dead center. Both marks align. When the key is turned the starter tries to turn but the engine does not spark. Electricity goes to the coil pack. 1998 Dodge Neon 2.0L SOHC 4 cylinder....
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I have a new to me 07 MDX with 82k miles. Exactly at 1 mile over the 30day/1200 mile used car warranty the Check Engine Light illuminated along. The NAV screen showed an emissions code P0401. I really don't notice any symptoms in running at all. Anyway a few drives (on/off) and it turns off for four days. It happened again with same code. Again few drives it went off. It seems to happen when driving easy. It gets great MPG in mixed driving on average (20MPG) which is far better than its rating. Should I wait till it stays on steady before I address this?
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The other night after starting the car I noticed that the dashboard was not illuminated. When I moved the headlight switch to the "headlight" setting from the "automatic" setting--the dashboard lights went on.
When I moved the switch back to automatic, the dashboard lights went off again. Adjusting the intensity using the appropriate switches did nothing. An hour later everything worked normally once again.
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