Acura - MDX :: 2007 - Check Engine Light Illuminated / Emissions Code P0401 On Nav Screen
Sep 7, 2011
I have a new to me 07 MDX with 82k miles. Exactly at 1 mile over the 30day/1200 mile used car warranty the Check Engine Light illuminated along. The NAV screen showed an emissions code P0401. I really don't notice any symptoms in running at all. Anyway a few drives (on/off) and it turns off for four days. It happened again with same code. Again few drives it went off. It seems to happen when driving easy. It gets great MPG in mixed driving on average (20MPG) which is far better than its rating. Should I wait till it stays on steady before I address this?
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Problem #1: So I've noticed a clunking when I go over sharp bumps or uneven road conditions (think roots under the pavement) at low speeds, such as in a parking lot. The noise is only under the front left tire well area, and the car drives smooth and great otherwise. Is it a bad joint? The closest dealership is over an hour away, so I want to make sure I'm driving there with a real reason. The MDX has about 130K, transmission is great, and new timing belt, so I'm scared it's some sort of axle/joint problem...
Problem #2: The check emissions light came on about two days ago. I have filled up since, but it hasn't gone away. There is not a smell from the exhaust, and there is no rattling. Gas mileage hasn't changed one bit either! What could it be?? The car has been restarted quite a few times, but the light comes on each time.
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I've read many threads in here, but I didn't find problem of my car. It's Toyota Prius-3 2010, check engine light on and code is P0401. EGR Valve works well, I cleaned pipe, gasket, cleaned throttle plate and everything but nothing works.
I have (light on) it maybe 1 year or more, the light goes away and come back,I'm in Los Angeles and all they time is sunny day and weather is nice, I've seen 3 times, when i drove in rain evening and morning I didn't see light on.. then, couple days and comes again. I think maybe EGR cooler has to be replace? or I do not know why in cold weather time light goes away..
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I just picked up a 2011 Ford F350 about 8 months ago. I have had troubles with the check engine light coming and going. Now it's been on for good with loss of power. I have had the codes read and they came up as the p0401 and a code about the def heater. I can not remember that code off the top of my head. After some searching I have found a video about the def heater but nothing about the Egr cooler/valve. Is there anything out there about how to clean and remove the the cooler as I will be needing to do repairs myself as the truck has no warranty.
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2004 Acura MDX, check engine light came on. Got code checked: P0741, supposed to be switch or torque converter. My mechanic won't do transmission work, so took to dealer. They drained fluid, no metal shavings. Now they want to replace transmission, said it has internal damage. It wasn't running badly, a little slippage here and there. Don't think it really needs replaced.
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I just got a Check Engine light on yesterday. I went to Autozone and got an OBD-II Trouble Code: P0401, Insufficient EGR Flow Insufficient. The Autozone guy showed me an EGR valve for $164 and said it maybe blocked or something. I also checked with a friend who says that as long as the engine is not overheating it should be okay for driving for now.
So the far the car runs just fine, I haven't experienced any issues out of normal. Does the code mean the value need to be replaced?
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On my 98' f250 4.6L 4x4 .. My check engine keeps going off and on, I finally pulled the code and its the P0401. The truck pings and knocks now and than and idles a tiny bit rough sometimes but overall runs good and gets the same mpg it always gets.....is this a bad egr valve?
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The "emissions" light on the dash of my 2002 Acura RSX lights up when I run the heater in winter months. It only comes on when the heater is on. It is never on in the summer, and even when it is warmer outside and I have the heater on, it will turn off. The gas cap is not loose, and the car is otherwise in great condition. Is this something I need to worry about?
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My camry 2000 recently the engine light's on and the codes are P0446 and P0401
P0401:The PCM has determined that there is insufficient flow in the exhaust gas recirculation system.
P0446: The PCM has determined that a malfunction exits in the electrical circuit fo the vent control in the evaporative emission control system.
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My 2010 Prius with 72k miles on it. I bought a OBDII scanner and read P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected. The check engine light comes on for few days, then go away for few weeks and then come back again. It's been doing the exact same thing (Come on for few days and then go away) in last few months. But I do not feel any different in terms of driving.
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When I started my car the check engine light came on and it emissions workshop message came up. What is this? My car seems to be running fine.
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My mothers 2004 Volvo S40 (original body style) has an illuminated check engine light. Dad took it to their local dealer. Unable to get a code from the cars computer and guessing the problem might be with the fuel filler cap seal, the dealer sold them a new fuel filler cap, offering them a refund on the cap should that solution not work. It did not.
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I just made my first payment last friday and today my check engine light is illuminated. I did have one of those awful cold, knocking starts the other day!
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I have a Toyota Prius (2010), and the car has run for about 2800000 kilometers. One day when a was driving my Prius the engine light suddenly get on. So I went to a car car mechanic, he checked the car and told me there was an error code (error code: P0401, exhaust problem (exhaust recirculation flow).
So I bought a liquid that I put in the gas tank, the liquid would clean the exhaust pipe, but the engine light was still on. The engine light is usually on at least 2 weeks, then disappear for about 2 days and come back in two weeks…The car is driving normally without any problems.
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I have a 2008 Honda Civic Hybrid with 95,000 miles. Today I drove to the top of Trail Ridge Road in Rocky Mountain National Park (this is at about 11,500 feet). At the top I was attempting to parallel park and the trouble began. I slowed and stopped the vehicle and shifted in to reverse. I put my foot on the accelerator to back up and the car started rolling forward. I looked at the gear indicator and the R was lit up but the D was also lit up and the Check Engine Light had illuminated and the car would not move at all. I shut off the vehicle and turned it back on and was able to shift in to Drive and drive away but the Check Engine Light was still on. No other problems with the driving, car sounds and feels the same. I drove off the mountain back in to the Denver area without any problems and was able to parallel park. Check Engine Light is still on - what might be going on. I do need an oil change shortly, but I don't know if that would cause these issues.
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I own a 2000 Toyota Camry that was given to me by my father. The check engine light illuminated last year so I brought the car in to my mechanic. He said it was the o2 sensor and changed it. That lasted about a month , and the light went on again. This time it had to do with some valves that get stuck open (or closed) but also had to do with the amount of oxygen that goes into the carburetor . I asked my Dad if he had this problem, and he told me that the engine light was illuminated often, that he had brought the car in about 6 times, but nothing was found. Previously I owned a 1998 Camry, and had the same problem; the check engine light illuminates, the diagnosis is the oxygen sensor, that gets changed, the light goes on again, this valve thing gets changed but the light goes on again in a month. I can't get the car inspected with the engine light illuminated. The light always goes back on but nothing else is found wrong with the vehicle. I really know nothing about cars.
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Naturally, the dealer service close to me and my regular repair shop are both closed today, so my mind is racing. My check engine light came on a couple weeks ago and I have been waiting for my guy to get back for it's full 80+K workup/service. That was to be right away.
This morning on my 5 mile trip to work after my car sitting for a day, the check engine light came on as usual (with no seeming weird behavior) - but as I was going through some S-curves, the EPC light came on and it felt as if the engine was throttling down, not knowing how to shift, something.
I wasn't far from my parking lot so I drove on here, parked nose out and popped the hood. Nothing visible (not that there would be necessarily) but weird exhaust smell.
I just went back out after lunch and it cranked for a good 20+ seconds over three start attempts before it finally did. Tach went all low and jiggly before kicking in and revving steadily at 1K. However, white puffs of smoke began coming out the exhaust - weird smell (e.g., unburnt fuel perhaps...)
I'm only in a mild panic as I'll likely have to have this towed in and I don't have a clue what I'm facing. I get conflicting tales online as to what it might be but I'd love to impose on your brains if you have some insight to share. I've read about coil packs, throttle bodies, and more.
The only mechanical issue I've had with this engine was that I had the intake manifold assembly replaced right after my warranty went out. Had the throttle body cleaned then, too. Nothing since other than regular services according to vw standards.
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Coming home from spring break towing the TT, the Check Engine light illuminates. Seems to be sputtering at idle, but otherwise OK, so we continued home.
Scanner lists the P0171 and P0174 codes. Ok, where to begin? based on internet info, started by cleaning the MAF sensor and throttle body. When I pulled apart the intake, noticed that the grommet which feeds the MAF in the air intake had become separated letting air bypass the MAF. Hence the reason for the codes.
If you get these codes, check the grommet for the wires feeding the MAF in the air intake to make sure it hasn't become separated from the intake. No more codes.
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My wife's car has 83000 miles on it. We bought it as a factory certified pre-owned vehicle with about 1800 miles on it and it came with the warranty. For the last two years the check engine light comes on with code 441 I don't worry about it till time to get inspection sticker here in Texas. I have been about to reset the computer and drive it till the computer is ready to be inspected and it has passed for two years. Now it won't reset and I have tried to test the vacuum switch and it seems to click when I apply voltage but light won't go off. This code can cost up to about 2000.00 to try and detect. I am not interested in having the dealership keep guessing on my dime.
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I have an '09 LS SWB AWD with 86k miles on it. A few days ago the check engine light came on with a message on the dash for me to check the VSC system. The next day the check engine light and VSC warning went away on their own. A day after that they came back on. I pulled the ODB codes and got the following:
P0012 - "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded Bank 1
I took it to my local Lexus dealership and they determined that my VVT-i motor assembly needed replacing. Total cost would be $1,222. Apparently this part regulate the camshaft for variable valve timing. I asked if I should notice a performance dropoff since it's related to valve timing but they said no. They said I wouldn't make it worse by driving it so I took my car back and they would order the part for me.
The next day the check engine light and VSC warning went away on their own again and have not come back on for 3 days now. I don't understand why the warning and check engine lights keep going off on their own if this motor assembly needs replacing. Once again it has been 3 days now and no lights have come on.
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I am the proud owner of a 2008 LS600hl with 141,000 miles. The check engine light is now on permanently and the estimated repair charge from my lexus dealership is outrageously expensive. Here is the official diagnosis and recommendation.
"Code P1083 - HCAC Valve Stuck Open in Bank 2 .
Recommend Replacing Y- Pipe With HC Adsorber .
Possibly May Need Exhaust 2 Sensors.
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