My Acura MDX has 118,000 miles on it. When I start it in the morning, it stalls as I shift it into gear unless I let it warm up for about 5 minutes. It is a 2002.
View 1 RepliesI own a 2003 MDX w/205k miles. The tranny was rebuilt at 150k. The weirdest thing started happening this week. sometimes when i am coming to a stop, the car feels like I am being rear ended and it stalls out. No check engine lights come on. it will start right back up (may take a couple of attempts to get to drive again). A mechanic who specializes in Honad/Acura thinks its the tranny. A tranny guy did a diagnostic and didn't get any codes. (the mechanic could duplicate the problem, the tranny guy couldn't). I would really like to keep the car going, but at this point sinking another 3k for a tranny is not an option.
View 1 RepliesI have a question about my 2000 Ford Focus. It has problems in the cold. When the air temperature is below -5 or so, after driving a short while (before the engine is up to temperature) if you come to a stop and the the engine go to idle it will stall. It does this while the car is still in motion (as it is a manual) and you aren't in gear coming to a stop light.
View 1 RepliesI have 93 cutlass Cierra..6 cylinder..3.3.. when it's fully warmed up it stalls out on me as I'm accelerating from a stop. but then if I wait a minute and re start it it most times will run ok.. and is loosing power sometimes, when fully warmed up she gets bogged down in pressing the accelerator....it won't stall when Idling.. only when fully warmed up when Accelerating....the engine raced the other day as if someone was stepping on the gas when I wasn't.. Only did that once..hasn't did that since.. Service engine light is on..I have new Oxygen sensor, cleaned the maf sensor..new fuel pump and new fuel filter..new plugs and wires and air filter this past summer..
View 4 Replies96 teg 1.8 non vtech after a while it will lose spark some times it runs for a few days then loses spark but will start up with in 10 min sometimes it just just stalls out and loses spark but restarts with in 10 minutes.
View 1 RepliesThe car has always had an issue with randomly stalling and dieing. It could be coming to a stop, driving down the st or just in idle. No warning, usually except once in a while the RPMs will drop pretty low before it cuts out. Other times it will "stutter" if you wonna call it that while I'm driving rev up and down around 2k.
Now while it's doing that, I noticed if I give it more gas it'll act like it's gonna cut out until I let off the pedal then it revs back up and sometimes if I catch it at the high point and hit the gas again that will occasional "catch it" and it will run okay for a bit. Anyway - recently I found that if I just let the car warm up before I drive it seems to run great. If I just start and go, it dies as soon as I put it in gear.
Note: Maintenance up to par, no engine light, don't smell gas, new filter, MAF, IAC, no vacuum leaks I can find.
Passat B6, 2009 TDI CR, 140 bhp, DSG.
Having an issue that's bugging me. all cold starts are fine. However, if I drive a short distance then try to restart the engine cranks, sounds like it catches but stalls.
It takes 2-4 retries to get it going, i'm not releasing the key too early as this happens even when I hold the key in.
I've not been able to get a VAG-COM on it yet but would like to know whether this is likely to be something simple or, if it's time to sell the car?
I have 2005 Ford 6.0 turbo diesel. I replaced high pressure oil pump because it would die once it warmed up. Also replaced high pressure fuel rails and icp solenoid. Engine still dies when ect reaches 204 and eot reaches 235. Why it still dies?
View 3 RepliesWe've had two problems within the last week with our 2002 Sport Trac (4.0l SOHC engine w/167,xxx miles). They may be unrelated, but I suspect there's good change they are. Both incidents happened while my 16 yo daughter was driving, so there's only very limited info on what happens. Both times, when I get there, it starts and runs fine. There is no CEL.
The first time it apparently stalled as she neared her destination after driving only about 2-3 miles at 35 mph or less after a cold start. She was slowing to pull into a parking lot and reported the dash lit up with warning lights, no power steering assist and no power brakes and no power from the engine. When I arrived it started and ran normally. She had fulled up the day before after two days of heavy rain, so I suspected water in the gas. I drove it more than 200 miles within the next 24 hours under a variety of conditions and filled up at a different station. I experienced no problem what-so-ever, and didn't bother adding any dry gas.
Then 5 days later (still on my fill-up) when she tried starting it after sitting all day, she reported the engine started but ran rough before stalling and never idled normally.
Doesn't the fact there's no CEL eliminate a lot of the upstream part of the control system......like sensors and actuators? This leaves things like the downstream parts of the fuel and ignition systems. I.e. from the fuel tank / pump to the injectors and the downstream parts of the ignition system.
What are the possible culprits? Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, ignition module, spark plugs, and....... what else? (I'm not that familiar with what these engines have) And of the possibilities, what are the most likely causes.
Sometimes my 2002 Acura RL will start right up. I go shopping, come out a half hour later and it won't start. Has a new battery, no clicking noises. If I get it into neutral and push it the car will start. Would this be the starter motor, fuel lines, alternator? any guesses?
View 7 RepliesMy 2002 Acura MDX is an automatic. Frequently while in the midst of driving and foot on gas, the car will all of a sudden rev as though it is in neutral. The RPMs rise and in order to gt the car to continue driving, I have to lift my foot off the gas completely and then it seems to re-engage and continue on. What could be causing the "neutral-like" blips while in drive?
View 2 RepliesI have a S10, 2000, 2.2 liter with 4L60E automatic transmission. The trans was rebuilt just before I got the truck and I verified this at the shop that did it. It's got about 45k on the trans since this rebuild. It started jumping in and out of TC lockup intermittently not long after I started driving it. No codes set and no light at all. I took it to the same trans shop that did the rebuild and drove it with a scanner and it wouldn't malfunction for them and they saw no stored codes. Then it went for several months and only slipped in and out once in a while so I lived with it. It started getting bad again so I took it back in and it acted normal again for them. I said if I drive it to work and it does it on the way I'll come by so they agreed. The next day it started going in and out after about ten minutes down the road so I went straight to the shop.
By the time I got there it wouldn't go to lock up at all. He drove it with me and the scanner showed the TC was not being told to go to lock up. He said the trans wasn't at fault. He could see the temp was steady and OK, the TPS (throttle position sensor) was a little low but steady and not the probable cause and VSS (speed sensor) was steady and looked good. He said he could only guess the computer was bad. I've since replaced the computer, TPS, and the VSS with no luck. I've ohmed out the wires and connectors from sensor to PCM connector as far as I can reach for each of these parts and find no broken or shorted wires. It seems to get worse when it warms up to the point it won't lock up at all now. The temp gauge is rock steady so I don't think it's bad or the wires. If I drop it down to 3 it seems to work fine up to what seems like 4th gear. I've tapped the brake pedal and pulled up on it with no change.
I have a 2002 Acura 3.5RL with 129,000 miles. I have a noise that sounds like rusty springs when I get in the car, during driving it and when I get out. It sounds like it's beneath the front seats of the car and very loud. In the past (this has been going on for 4 or 5 years), it would go away after a few miles of driving. Now it is not going away and there's even noise sometimes when I brake. It's been over a month since it started this time. Before when I took it to the dealer, the noise had stopped by the time I got there. I left it and they drove it the next day and the noise was not there. Now I live in an area where there is no Acura dealer and I'm very concerned because the sound is constant and loud.
View 3 RepliesThe "emissions" light on the dash of my 2002 Acura RSX lights up when I run the heater in winter months. It only comes on when the heater is on. It is never on in the summer, and even when it is warmer outside and I have the heater on, it will turn off. The gas cap is not loose, and the car is otherwise in great condition. Is this something I need to worry about?
View 10 RepliesA cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
View 14 RepliesMy 02 BMW 525i engine starts to stop running when the gas pedal is pressed. The engine starts and drives fine when the engine is cold. However, after driving for a while like more than 20 miles, I mean when the engine warms up already, the engine suddenly stops when the gas pedal is pressed, like stopping in the traffic light or STOP sign and starts to drive. I replaced the idle air control valve, but it does not work. What should I check next?
View 7 RepliesI have 234,000 miles on the car, it runs well. starting to have idling problems, if I don't let the car warm up for ten or more minutes it cuts off. The power steering belt is making noise, the dash board is cracked from the sun other then these two issues it runs great. Should I repair these things or should I start looking for a new car?
View 2 Replies2002 GTi 337 not shifting out of 1st until is warmed up for 20 min. Then shifts fine. I've already attempted to add the "liquid gold" G-052-990-A2 ATF fluid from VW at $35qt. I put in about 200ML to no change, then another 200ML to no change. So from reading other posts in VWvortex I've seen many folks with the Jetta have had very similar symptoms. They are installing a new (Solenoid valve N92 (green) to fix this issue. Many of them are even using over the counter synthetic ATF. Before I dig in, just wanted to know what folks with the GTi 337 think about this? Am I dealing with basically the same transmission?
View 2 RepliesThe engine makes a chirping/grating sound while idling, sound goes away while accelerating. What could be wrong?
View 2 RepliesThree days ago, my 2002 Taurus ses, 144k, auto, 3.0 v6 motor, started "ticking" after I drove it to the local grocery. It is coming from the top of the motor, but does not make noise when it is first started, cold, only after it is warmed up. Oil & filter has 2500 miles on them, all other fluids are good.
View 1 RepliesI'm the loving owner of an amazing '02 RSX. She is just about to hit 100K, and has been completely trouble free. This past sunday, I started it up in the morning and immediately noticed a semi-harsh vibration, with high idle speed (1500ish, normal is 500). If I give it gas, the vibration and rumble noise goes away, but if it put it in reverse, it seems to get worse. After a few miles of driving, the idle speed returns to normal and seems to feel/sound fine. Also of note, if i hit a dip in the road, i get a vibration and engine sound that resembles that of a flat tire. I know this sounds random, but it's the best I can do at describing it. There are no check engine lights, temp is fine, and otherwise seems to be driving great. I initially thought bad spark plug or air filter, but have since thought of vacuum pressure or O2 sensor, maybe even an engine bolt break (from the sound it makes driving into a dip). Could this be as simple as getting a bad batch of gas?
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