Acura - Legend :: 1993 - Electrical Malfunction - Completely Died?
Jan 12, 2015
I have a '93 Acura Legend type 2 which I love. However, last week I jumped it because I don't drive it much, unhooked the jumper cables, let the car run for about 10 minutes; I was ready to go so I turned on the headlights and the car immediately just died, like COMPLETELY. No lights, clicks or any electrical activity of any kind. Complete deathly silence. I assume it's either a main fuse, relay, or else (gulp) a short somewhere.
If this could be a fuse or relay, which one(s) it could be?
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I recently found out my motor mounts are bad. Almost a year ago I noticed I was leaking coolant so I just filled it with water every time it was empty. Now I have been getting an overheating problem if it's not filled to the right amount. Just yesterday the problem got worse as there is green gunk at the opening of the radiator and it's always hot. The reservoir is filling up with hot water a lot of the time. My radiator will be empty when that happens. As I was driving the gauge was reading hot. Turning on the heater didn't work much. I tested it tonight, with the radiator full and 2 cups water in reservoir. Drove it a few blocks and turned off car. Radiator had lots of pressure and hot. The reservoir was same level.
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My 1991 Acura Legend LS does not start in cold weather and in the morning. Once it does, it keeps on starting and runs great. Prior to catching and starting it rattles and shakes and when I press the accelerator, it makes sounds like it is not getting enough air. The problem occured abruptly after a mechanic tried to find out why the radiator fan does not come on. That has been fixed by putting a new relay. The car has 176,000 miles and has never given starting problem before.
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1991 Acura Legend 6 cylinders
For about a week, my car was hard to start, and very sluggish upon acceleration. By Friday, the car was not getting over 20 mph, chugging, and semi-backfiring. I took off the valve covers and found quite a bit of oil in the 2nd cylinder, along with a crude covered ignition coil. I replaced all 6 spark plugs (properly gapped) and bought a new coil for the #2 cylinder. I also replaced the valve cover gaskets, and all 6 rings to prevent more oil seepage. After putting everything back together, making sure wires were correctly aligned, the car will not start. It cranks, but does not turn over. I put the old coil back on, and it did the same thing- crank but no start. Have I lost compression? How can I restore compression? The engine sounds so close to turning over, but not quite there. I'm stumped.
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I have a 91' Acura Legend (lots of miles 179K) and makes a sound of a sick lion/ steel hammer. When I turn it on, automatically it rev's the RPM's to 1.5-2000, and I will usually wait a few minutes before it reduces RPM. When I put it in any gear it will make a pound (like steel) from the hood. When in drive I have to slowly accelerate or the pop continues then follows with a sick almost grinding (like a Lion has a sore throat)sound. If I barely push on the accelerator it will drive slightly normal or (sometimes) slam on the gas. What do you think?
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My 87 Acura Legend with 210,00 miles has an automatic transmission slipping problem. Car will not start moving when in the D position (slips), but if i shift manually to 2 , then S3 , it shifts ok except for some shuttering when shifting to D at about 35 mph. It also does not lock into Park when shifting to P position( car will roll when on a hill.) The shift cable and adjustment are ok. The S3 light does not blink and there are no codes stored. The trans fluid was changed 5,000 miles ago and level and condition are both good.( I have only used Honda fluid for the life of the car and change it every other oil change.) I removed the shift solenoids to find all of the screens clean and all solenoids clicked when 12v applied. At this point i realize i probably have an internal problem (possibly bad clutch pack?) My question is why doesn't the parking pin lock? Is this related to the slipping problem?
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OK, so go out to my 1994 Acura Legend, crank it, hear a loud hum that doesn't go away, then bluish smoke appears from under the hood. Immediately shut off the engine and open the hood to release the smoke. Haven't touched it since.
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What is wrong with my car. It drives fine for a while every day then out of the blue starts hesitating and sounding like it wants to shut off when we're at a traffic light. It gets worse when I am making a turn, like it hesitates to pick up speed and starts like sputtering. When my car does this the muffler starts smoking really bad. The smoke is not a black color it is white. When it feels like it's going to turn off, I have to put it in Neutral then it stops. They did say the fuel pump wasn't bad so I am assuming spark plugs??? What may be causing this problem?
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1988 Acura Legend, 2.7L 6 cyl., 181,000 miles only do 6,500 miles a year to train station, parked inside, runs great. Last week parked out in hot sun, '90s, for 8 hours. At first, no problem. When did errand and returned to car, pushed clutch pedal and it would not return or allow gear to engage. "Jammed" into 1st, then could not shift, shifted slightly by pulling up on clutch pedal with my foot. Parked overnight, cool, next morning seemed to be fine and crept to mechanic. Mechanic road tested and found no problem and now seems to be working okay. Would parking in sun, high heat cause "clutch cylinder" to "seize" or "freeze"? Is there a "fix"? Also, increasingly hard to get parts for this car.
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My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
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I own a 2004 Acura RSX that I purchased new nearly 10 years ago. The car currently has 182,000 miles on it. Two years ago (approx. 130,000 miles), I had to replace the catalytic converter and both O2 sensors. This lightened my wallet to the tune of $1,200 (aftermarket franchise, OEM replacement). A few weeks ago, the "check engine" light came on. I used my scanner, and got the dreaded P0420 code, and had it verified by another shop. O2 sensors were OK. What REALLY shocked me was that replacement catalytic converters are only warranted for 5 years/25,000 miles (50k in CA). The first replacement piece lasted 52,000 miles (less than half the miles/years of the original part)
Here are THE QUESTIONS: What killed this catalytic converter? What can I do to prolong the life of this part? My car has the base powertrain that (according to the owner's manual) recommends 87 octane fuel. That's all I've ever used. The mechanic suggested moving up to mid-grade fuel, though he admitted that he wasn't sure.
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The check engine light on my 1997 Integra (LS, 119K miles) has come on for the second time. Including background below.
Incident #1: Carin mid-June, the car sputtered or shook a bit when starting and the check engine light came on.The car had been sitting in the garage only about a day. Codes were P0303 (Cyl 3), 0304 (Cyl 4), P1399 (multiple misfire), P1300 (random Cyl misfiring). The p0303 code set at 1600 rpm & at 75F degrees. Misfire code set during warm-up. The shop performed block test (came negative). Compression tests show 1, 2, 4 at 200 psi & 3 at 190 psi. The shop replaced spark plugs & inspected plug wires & connectors as well. Valve clearance adjustments also were done. The shop cleared the engine light code.
Incident #2: Last week (early Aug), the car again sputtered & shook when trying to start (had been sitting in the garage for about 2.5 days). Showed signs of low or dead battery but started after cranking a few times. The check engine light came on again. Codes (checked at home using the jump method) indicate Cyl 1 & 3 misfire.
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I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer with about 180,000 miles on it. It has been running fine, then a few weeks ago we got gas at a small little station we had never been to. The day after it started cutting out. We took it to the shop and they put a new catalytic converter on it. They said it also needed a new water pump and something with oil seals, so we went ahead and did that. It drove fine for a while, then the next time we filled up with gas it started cutting out and completely died. They put a new fuel filter, spark plugs and wires and distributor cap, basically gave it a good tune up. It's been driving fine. We filled it up and with in a few miles it start stuttering. At the stop light it rattled but kept going. drove it another 3 miles and it stuttered again. We are out of money and at our wits end!
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I own a 1998 Volvo S70 with a turbo. As I was driving the other day I shifted the car from 4-5 gear. After I had the car in 5 gear, it chugged forward. I pulled to the stop light and the car stalled. It started again and I made it home. I checked the fluids and they were low so I added oil and power steering. It drove fine for the rest of the day until later in the evening when it chugged again after shifting. I then drove it the next day and the car completely died at the stop light. I couldn't restart it. It would turn but wouldn't stay on. There was also a strange smell coming from the engine after trying to start it again. Ive been told possible fuel pump or maybe the catalytic converter because of the smell..
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I was driving my 2000 Subaru Outback on Friday evening and it completely died at a red light. Hazards wouldn't turn on, couldn't move the car into N or P, couldn't get the key out of the ignition. Because we were blocking an intersection, the police went to a nearby shop and had them tow it there. This is a shop I don't trust. What could this be, so I can be informed when these people call me back and tell me I need significant repairs?
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2012 3.6 SE... Might have left my lights on... Battery Dies... How do I get into the trunk where the battery is or to the connectors under the hood? I'm completely locked out of the car...
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I own a 2002 Acura TL- car has 100K, i am the original owner- always maintained etc.. I am having problems with the transmission- car was in accident back in 2005, and tranny was replaced..Anyways, when i back car out and then hit it in drive, car goes to neutral. also when i drive, approach stop sign, and then accelerate, car goes to netural- dealer says need new tranny- cost is 2400 plus tax.... so i was thinking of doing that but now they say there is a leak with the oil pump- i said i dont see oil leaking they say its hitting the pan, could go in a month or in a year- cost 1200 to fix.. then he said the brake lines will need to be changed evenually- again 1000 or more.....ball joints- they quoated me 625...
So they say they will give me 500 bucks for a trade in- this car is in really good conditiion except for the supposed problems they found..If they car wouldnt have these problems i would get the tranny fixed- but i dont know what to do- ball joints dont have to be replaced- they hvae a little play.. the oil leak? I mean i have a 2000 accord that the dealer says is leaking- my private mechanic says all accords leak.
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2008 GX470..... Car died 3 times on the way...engine started missing a bit then completely died. First time n of Dalhart TX pulled off the road and restarted in a few minutes ran ok for about 30 miles died again. Restarted in a few minutes, filled up and drove 120 miles to Trinidad CO no problems....stopped at Toyota dealer in Trinidad, ran full diagnostics, said fuel mixture would run too high, car was fine now, maybe bad gas. Drove 150 mi no problem to Co Springs. Car died again climbing up to Breckenridge, pulled into gas station, shut down, filled up, restarted and no problems the last 100 miles into Breckenridge? Only commonality when the car died was that I was at half tank of gas. If fuel pump issue should full analysis have showed that?
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My 2002 Prius died the other day. Getting DTC P3125 when I ran it through my scanner, but I don't have an advanced enough one to get the sub-codes. It's got 215,000 Miles on it, so I would expect something major to be happening at this point.
Here's a detailed description of what happened --- I was driving down the freeway the other day and started noticing my car was sputtering a little bit and losing a slight amount of power. I pulled over to a restaurant to say hi to a friend; when I came back out I started the car and the check engine and battery lights came on. About 10 more miles down the freeway the car started heavily limping and barely was able to get me off the freeway, then the car completely died. When I would start it back up it would die in about 5 to 10 seconds. The 12v auxiliary battery, not the main hybrid battery, had completely died.
I figured it might have been just a dead old battery that needed replacement so I put in another new one. It ran amazingly for about five minutes around the parking lot, then the same thing happened again. It completely died just like before.
The 12v battery isn't getting re-supplied with the juice it needs. Something's wrong in there.
The either the inverter is shot, it's just overheating due to a faulty coolant pump, or the MG2 generator isn't putting juice back into the 12v system.
I checked the fluid reservoir. It looks like it's flowing, but there is a few bubbles floating to the top of the fluid. Is that normal?
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