Acura - Integra :: Removing Carbon Build Up On Pistons?
Apr 16, 2016
My 87 Acura Integra with 170k gave SMOG reading in CA as below:
NOSpeed Max Meas15 760 87525 542 535
A m/c tells me it is the result of carbon build up on pistons.
Incidentally it gave the following in 2010 - upon retesting without any repair it passed:
NOSpeed Max Meas15 760 65625 542 678
Note: Recent oil change (Mobil 1 High Mileage), tune up, Thermostat, new PCV valve, NGK Plat spark
It is for "NO" - Nitrous Oxide
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My commute is only 11.5 miles. 6 miles of it I can run 55-65. Am I building a carbon nightmare?
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Anything to remove some carbon build up, that won't cost an arm and a leg. My car has 123k miles on it and those morning starts from the carbon build up are just unpleasing to say the least.
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Last week when we were in the single digits outside my 3.6 SE took about 15-20 sec of cranking to start (garage kept). Then the check engine light came on (2nd time in 10 months). I drive a lot (80 miles a day), and have put 19,900 miles on since I purchased it in March of 2012. The light turned off after three cycles, but I just so happen to have my 20,000 mile service scheduled so I took the car in. The hard start still is happening every few start ups.
The dealer told me the hard start issues I have been experiencing was due to excessive carbon build up on the valves. The dealer said they haven't seen many "high mileage" 2012 3.6 come through, so they could not tell me if this is common.
I use Shell 93 octane for every fill up. Is there something else I should be doing to prevent this carbon build up? Any others seen this with their higher mileage 2012 3.6? BTW they also had to replace the right rear control arm due to one of the bushings being worn out!
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I have a 2014 Sonata with 22k miles. I love this car but lately I've noticed valve rattle under acceleration. Brought this up with service tech and he said I'm not driving the car on long enough trips to keep it cleaned off. When I researched the GDI very little info comes up for Hyundai mainly vw and BMW. I guess what I'm asking is is the only fix for the carbon build up removing the intake and cleaning the valves manually or is there another way.
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I recently took my 2007 VW Passat 2.0T in b/c the check engine light was on. They initially replaced a leaking valve and a bad ignition coil, but the car was still misfiring on cylinder 3. They took off the intake manifold and found that there was significant carbon build up. The service writer said it was from "low-quality" gas. The car requires 91 octane. I've used 93 octane since 2007 but started using 89 octane around 6 months ago when the gas prices spiked again. Could 6 months of 89 octane cause significant carbon build up to the point it would trip the check engine light? Or could something else have caused it that I need to watch out for?
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Been told my EGR valve is ok on my 96 accord . But I may have carbon build up in my suction side . I used deep creep for week to loosen up the build up. What else can I do?
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I recently removed the top plastic cover on my '05 Camry LE V6 to pull a plug and inspect/decide if I was going to change them out. While I felt I was being careful handling the plastic cover, I grabbed it by the access hole for the oil filler cap. Walking back into the garage, some black carbon came off, and looking at the bits on the ground, and what was left on the inside of the cover, I'm not sure if there is supposed to be a gasket there.
Maybe it was just an accumulation of spilled oil over the years that has trapped and "cooked", or something put in place to capture spilled oil. I scraped the rest of the carbon off using a razor blade and cleaned it up before installing the cover.
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I have an 88 acura integra and the problim is that once in a while it would not start after it had been running. If I let it sit for 5 min it would start. Now it is happening everyday. One time it will start great and run fine, but when I turn it off I don't know if it will start again. I checked the gas and it is getting gas and the pressure is fine, but when it last happened it would turn over but wouldn't start for the rest of the day, I checked and it had no spark. After I replaced the ignition control mod and rotor, it started on the second try but when i got to work and turned it off the same thing. I let it sit for a while (about 15 min) and it started. Like I said after it starts it runs great, lots of power, no missing or any thing.
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Lately, my 1990 Integra has been idling VERY low. Some mornings, while idling at a stop, the rpms fluctuate up and down to the point where it almost dies. Is it just cold? I live in coastal San Diego, so it's not freezing here. This morning, had to keep my foot on the gas to keep the car from stalling before getting home from dropping son off at school. It died in the driveway. Started up just fine right afterwards, but idled down to nothing. Now it idles okay, but at a pretty low rpms, like usual. NOW, the battery, a SEARS Diehard Silver, is near the end of its usable life. Prorated 84,000 mile replacement warranty, but I have had it for 8.5 years and have 1 82,000 miles on it. YES! I have been meaning to replace it, as it is leaking some nasty stuff at the terminals, but wonder if the weird idling is a symptom of something else, since the car still turns over.
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I just bought a 95 Acura Integra from Canada. I haven't driven it in a few weeks. It has a lot of stuff in it. An aftermarket engine and intake. Also aftermarket speakers and stereo. It has blue lights installed by the pedals. Now it won't start. I got stuck in town the other day. Whats wrong? I really love this car. Awesome body kit and everything. I don't wanna sell it!
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I have a 1996 Acura Integra with manual transmission. It has only 113K miles on it. I put on only 6K to 7.5K miles a year. I have owned the car since it was new & have always changed the oil & oil filter myself. Until about 3 years ago I changed the oil & filter 4 times a year--roughly about every 2K miles. Three years ago I reduced the number of oil changes to 3 times per year. Recently it was suggested to me that even that was too many and that I should change the oil & filter every 6 months. To be honest I am not comfortable with that but I also realize that my discomfort may simply come from habit. I have changed the oil & filter every 2K on every car that I have owned since I was a teenager. I should tell you that I am 80 years old and live on my savings & a pension. To replace this car would cost me between $25K to $30K so it is to my advantage to keep the car on the road for as long as I can. In short will I be doing any harm to the engine by changing the oil every 6 months?
A second question that I have about oil is that it is becoming increasingly more & more difficult to buy a high quality brand of conventional motor oil. When I shop I have been finding that the better engine oils, Castrol GTX, for example, do not offer much of a selection when it comes to conventional motor oil. In fact conventional motor oil is their cheapest oil. Most of the varieties of oil that they offer are blends of conventional motor oil & synthetic oil. I have heard conflicting statements about switching from conventional oil to synthetic oil. Some say it is dangerous to do and that it should not be done while others say that it does no harm. But what about switching to a blend of conventional oil & synthetic oil? Will that cause any damage to the engine?
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2000 Acura Integra Auto ... Replaced the radiator through Kragen (O'Reilly)Didn't come with a cap - using the existing one.If you tighten it, it goes around through 360 degrees ...
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Once a week or so my car doesn't start right away after I have driven some where, such as to get coffee, the library, or shirts from the cleaners, It makes noise as if it will start, but then gives up. If I sit and wait patiently -- doing nothing for 15 to 20 minutes or so, it will start. The mechanics have checked it over several times, but can't figure out what's wrong. They suggested putting in a new engine relay a week and half ago. Since then, the problem has happened twice.
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I recently had my oil &filter changed on my 01 integra at the dealer and was told that my oil pan gasket has started to leak. Car has 180k on it, and has no engine leaks.Seems like steep price for the repair $340.00 for the oil pan gasket. Is this repair really worth doing on a 12yr old car or is this just a normal thing that happens w/ age. Also Oil is not leaking on the ground and has no leaks around the engine. Iam only adding 1qt. of oil every 3k.
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My 2000 Integra with 180,000 miles that never gave me a moment of trouble, stalled at a stop sign and hasn't started since. The info:
1. Engine cranks
2. Check Engine light comes on and then goes off after a few seconds (assume no error code)
3. Removing a spark plug shows spark
4. All fuses ok
5. Fuel pump relay ok
6. Removed fuel filter, turned on ignition (not trying to crank), fuel is coming through. There isn't much pressure, the fuel comes out like a water fountain. I assume the fuel pump is ok.
My thinking is that I either don't have spark or I don't have fuel. The spark looks ok. The fuel pump is moving fuel, I don't know if the pump can fail in a way that moves fuel but at too low a pressure. Is there another device, in the fuel delivery system, between the pump and the cylinder that I can check?
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My 1990 Acura Integra is on her 4th timing belt...still going strong after 25 years! Long ago, I was told by the people who worked on my car that it was best to replace the Timing Belt every 60K. My Manual says inspect at 60K but replace at 90K.I typically have changed it at around 65K....and now it is a bit beyond the 65K mark for this timing belt ( also do the water pump, etc) as the car is now at 262,327 miles.I am tempted to wait a bit longer, as it is not even close to the 90K mark.
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Yesterday after driving my 1990 Integra ~ 25 min (Fwy), upon parking at the Farmers Market, I noticed the Fan running, which it usually NEVER does, unless there are impending issues (like in the past, when I needed a new radiator). I also noticed a weird smell, and even a stronger than usual gas smell coming from near the engine area, but thought it could have been from other cars near me that were coming and going.
This morning I opened the radiator cap and found the liquid slightly low, but there was still stuff in the overflow reservoir.There are not ANY signs of leakage under the car, but I now think the smell I noticed yesterday WAS radiator fluid. The hoses all look fine and the radiator is only a year or so old.
FYI, I tried to search Radiator queries under Repair and Maint. and the "ask a question " section, but it is not giving me the BLUE links that I USED TO GET, (as in others on the forum who posted radiator problems), but rather the links are RED now, and when I click on them, it often comes up as UNTRUSTED site, so I don't want to go there! Maybe the format has changed and it is ALL like this?
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My hatch has wires coming out of frame into the hatch - it goes through a rubber conduit - the conduit supposed to go in and out of the hatch as we open and close it. It needs to be easy otherwise the conduit will come out of the position from the hatch - there is a sleeve.
Can I apply any specific grease? It is a 87 Acura Integra....
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I I have Integra 94 RS, all of sudden it started to shake like crazy. it feels like the car has a stuffy nose (something clogged).
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2000 Integra with 95k miles in an excellent condition - used pedal jack when parked
I had to make a left turn and ramp up so put it on D3 - I pressed the accelerator and when I felt the speed could be higher (I am not comfortable to drive up the hills) so I must have pressed hard on the accelerator. It then responded
Not sure what was happening, I started breaking and steering - still around 30mph, guessing - it was not a wild drive.
Still not satisfied, I moved to gear 2 and stopped the car. Realized the car is still pulling, turned off the engine and realized the accelerator pedal is stuck.
I pulled it and it has been fine! With the engine off, I pushed the pedal hard and it always bounced back. Not sure that the getting in and out the pedal jack had been interferring with the accel pedal. It also looks like the engineers did a good job that with the stuck accel pedal, I did not end up in a wild drive - I had to brake and move the tranny to 2 but was able stop it - it was a mild up the hill, but unsure if it played a big role.
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