Acura :: 1997 - Won't Start Or Shift Out Of Park
Sep 2, 2014
My daughters boyfriend has a 97 Acura CL, 4 cylinder. He stopped by yesterday and now his car won't start. None of the accessories work, it will not shift out of park, the battery is fine, the headlights etc work fine. We checked the fuses and fusible links, replaced the ignition and cylinder, but the car still won't start. I am not sure what to try next, I did use the key to put the car into neutral but it didn't work. I need to get this kid out of my house, he lives 30 miles away!
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I have a '97 Ford Ranger with an automatic transmission that wouldn't shift out of park last night. A friend opened the hood and jiggled the steering column some, and finally it shifted. We checked the transmission fluid and it is full, a dark brown color. What the problem might be?
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Is this a bug? I hit the start button, everything comes on, put on my seatbelt, etc... then I shift into reverse (out of park) and it says I must start in park. But it's already started. I then have to hit the start button to turn everything off, then hit it again to turn anything on. How to avoid this?
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Ford Superduty (F450). The truck is the gasoline 460 engine and E4OD transmission with 100K miles. Runs great and pulls a heavy load.
When the truck is started, I cannot move the shifter from park to any gear. The shifter lever will not pull back. I think that there is something either the ignition switch or an electronic solenoid that prevents shifting the truck from park while it is not running.
So if I turn off the truck and leave the key in the run position, the shifter will release. While holding back on the shifter while in park, I restart the truck, I can then shift into any gear and the truck runs fine. Then if I stop and put the truck back into park, I must shut off the engine, hold back on the shifter, start the truck then shift into gear.
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I have a '97 F150 Lariat Ext cab, 5.4, 2Wd, 175K, a bit rusty but for the most part functional. Unit is parked for long periods of time.
3 - 4 years back the gear shift did not want to go into PARK and and the gear indicator was out of register. Unit would not start and I had to move shift lever to N to start. Fixed the two screws on shift plate/column per this site. Then 18 months ago same thing begin to occur but this time I used blue thread lock to hold screws in place. Still had to throw into park to get it to stay.
6 months ago shifter became very difficult to move and near impossible to get into PARK. When in PARK the interlock must have not been engaged so had to move to N or push lever hard into PARK to start.
Tired of this so I cruised the site and found several posts on taking dash apart, repairing a broken shift tube and or replacing bushings.
Battery disconnected, dash apart, cluster out, steering wheel still on and steering column still in position. Shift tube appears OK, i.e. not broken as in one post, bushings appears OK as there is no play or slop evident, but I cannot get the shift lever to move from PARK, period.
When the shift lever is pulled toward the wheel, a pawl on the tube causes a plastic or nylon arm to move about 90 degrees. It must be a stop or safety of some sort. I have not dug deep enough to see the shift plate with the two screws. At 75 I find it difficult to lay upside down to reach and hope I can get to them from the top.
Questions:
1. How do I get it out of PARK to check all things on shift tube and gear selector units?
2. Does the battery need to be connected for the interlocks to function?
3. Do I need to drop the column to check on shift tube items?
4. With a rusty trans, can the shift cable to trans connection be the problem?
5. What to look for, how to repair. etc.
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A couple times recently, I've been unable to shift my truck out of Park & the brake lights don't work.
After checking the related fuses & finding them to be ok, it all works again.
What might be causing this to happen?
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having problem w/ 98 f-150. first truck stuck in park. figured out how to get around that (turn key 1 position, shift to neutral, start vehicle, then engage transmission). but no brake lights! I have turn signals, driving lights, hazards, etc in rear. I disconnected harness from brake light switch. there are 2 leads, 1 hot, 1 not. i jumped them and no brake lights. i tested the switch and it functions properly (it's reconnected now). i changed my bulbs in tail lights. I unplugged the solenoid (which is impossibly located behind/beside steering column). this allowed me to shift like an old truck (without having to brake first), but doesn't solve my lack of brake lights (i've reattached the solenoid harness to remind me of my problems).
i am putting my money on a broken wire somewhere between the brake light switch (b/c that was good) and the solenoid (i am not hearing that faint click when i step on brake). but a broken wire should work by accident some of the time (unless cut cleanly and completely). there is a green wire with red stripe leaving the brake light switch and 3 wires at the solenoid harness (1 green and maybe a smaller gauge than those at the switch and 2 others which i don't recall their colors). Ford service manager doesn't think it's the solenoid but wasn't otherwise useful except to say, "hey, why don't you bring it in to me." What to look for before i plunk down for someone to perform what I already have before completing the job!
can i splice a wire from something (? brake light switch?) to something (?wire in solenoid harness?) or does that "electronic signal" get processed somewhere else first?
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I've had this ongoing issue where unless I first shift car from park to neutral and back again, the push button start will not work. After I do this car starts up fine every time.
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I have a 2004 RX with 82,000 miles, well maintained. Lately the engine will start but the warning lights won't go off and the gear shift won't move out of park. I have to keep turning the vehicle on and off until the gear shift will go in reverse.
It doesn't happen every day but off and on over the past month.I've had numerous brake light switches replaced which could maybe be the lights, would that affect the transmission too?
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I have an 04 ford 150 super crew truck with 4 speed trans and 3.4 engine. The gear shift sometimes won't start in park and has slack in movement . Starts in neutral but has some slack in it. I can't determine where the slack is but sure it relates tt no park start. Where the safety switch is and is this a common problem with this truck?
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I have a 1995 Ford Crown Victoria. If I start the car in Park, it will not shift. IF I start the car in neutral, I can shift gears with no problems. In conjunction, the turn signals work well, but I have no brake lights.
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe and last night, out of the blue, the engine wouldn't start. The shift lever was stuck in park and the brake pedal was very stiff and wouldn't move much. I popped the cap off the shift lock and moved it to neutral at which time the car started without a problem. I could drive but shifting was difficult and the lever didn't really click into a gear. I noticed that when shifting gears. the indicator on the dash would change from N to D and to R in reverse but when I moved up to park, the indicator went blank and the lever locked up again and had be released manually. I also noticed when I got home, since my driveway is a slope, that when the car seemed to be in park is rolled down the driveway, so I had to engage the emergency brake.
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My Daughter owns a 2000 Camry. It has a very annoying habit of not starting when it is warm (think driving to the gas station, turning the car off to fill it and then it doesn't start again). We have tried new solenoids, a new starter and several other tweaks but nothing seems to fix the problem. Recently she discovered if she jiggles the gear shift lever (it's an automatic) it will start. So, obviously she gear shift lever is not finding Park or Neutral so that it can be in position to start. She has experimented with this concept and it appears to be the only thing that consistently solves the starting issue. What would we have to fix in the gear shift lever, or elsewhere, to fix this problem?
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1992 Buick Park Avenue, Base. For awhile now I've had trouble shifting into park from other gears. Sometimes, it'll flow right into park without trouble. Other times, I have to work it, to kind of baby it in. However, it simply will not shift into park from reverse. Period. If I'm in reverse and want to park, I have to go into drive, neutral, etc, and then try to move it into park.
A mechanic I know looked at the neutral safety switch and thought it could be causing the problem. We figured it wasn't in the steering column or the cable to the switch because if we disconnect the cable, you can slide that lever all day long. So I purchased a new neutral safety switch and had him install it, but the same problem is there. Actually, let me clarify: while it was in his garage, with the old switch, it would no longer go into park at all, regardless (kind of decided to just stop altogether). At least with the new switch we can baby it into park, but it is basically back to where it was last week. He mentioned it might be deeper in the transmission, but that's out of his league.
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Today, without explanation the shift indicator on the dash on my 98 Passat Wagon highlights all gears. When you shift to any gear. . . . the display does not change. Further, shifting is rough from 'park.'
I noticed this problem after looking at all the fuses to see why the radio was not powering up. I have checked fuses. . . . and unplugged the battery and plugged it back in.
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So I just bought a 2001 F-150. It has the 4.6 v8 it's a 4x4 automatic. Sometimes i'll go to start it in park but nothing will happen. But if I put it in neutral. It'll start right up.
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Last two weeks I have had my truck randomly not want to start while in park. If I shift to neutral it has so far started up everytime, but as of today I was at work at a security gate that sits at the bottom of a mild to moderate incline and the moment after I had put the truck in park and lift off of the brakes the truck clicks moves forward making a clicking sound life the parking prawl is not fully engaging or something.
So doing some google searching the closest answer come up with is that its a failing/out of adjustment Transmission Range Sensor. Does this sound right? I had the tranny rebuilt last year and only have put on 7,500 to 10,000 miles so its not a matter of age since it looks like the sensor was replaced at that time.
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Put foot on brake, selector in P it will start but will not shift.
Put foot on brake, turn key on, put selector in N it will start and shift R or D as normal EXCEPT do not shift to P as it will lock up and you have to start all over again.
Selector is basically aligned on the letters appropriately.
2001 F150 supercrew 5.4
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just replaced the timing belt and water pump on my '97 Acura TL. (80k mi), It now vibrates in gear at idle,but runs like a champ above 1000 RPMs. Didn't do it when I took it in. Our trusted mechanic says it's the motor mounts. I say "how do motor mounts go bad overnight?" There are small drips on my driveway under the car.
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1997 Acura Cl 2.2 ... Ticking noise coming from the dash board and glove box area ( sounds like blinker ticking noise).
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So I drove my phaeton home today and when I pressed the button on the gear leaver and moved it to shift into park it would not move past neutral and sometimes reverse. The button on the gear lever got stuck in and cannot be moved out of the pressed position... because of this I removed the shifter, and the wooden panel. The plastic piece at the top of the gear shifter has broke off and I cannot figure out how to get into park and the car will not let my key go...
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