Accord :: Radio Started To Malfunction And Draining Battery
Aug 28, 2012
We have a 2005 Accord. The radio started to malfunction over a year ago. The clock display and everything just stopped working. Disconnecting the negative battery cable would reset it but then it would stop working again a short time after. Sometimes with the car off, you can hear the radio making a sound, like it's trying to eject a CD. Whatever its doing, its draining the battery.
I have to jump the car about once a week. I called the dealer and they said the radios for this year and model are known to be faulty but the fix is expensive and we cannot afford it. I'm pretty handy but not so much with stereo/ electronics. If there is a fix out there, I am willing to try it.
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About 4 yrs ago, my Son called me and said battery was dead in 2006 Chevy Malibu. and that the weird thing was CD player was spinning with the car shut off. Jumped battery but had to take out radio fuse because when car was shut off, radio would still run! Took it to the dealer and they wanted 500.00 dollars to fix the thing!!! No way I am paying that. Long story short put fuse back in and Radio plays for 30 seconds then shows "LOCKED" Why oh why is my Malibu radio draining my battery and running when car is off? I haven't had a radio for four years because of this "electrical problem" and NO WAY can I afford 500.00! Someone also said check the Ignition Switch or it could be the RAP (Retained Accessory Power)?
Here is what I tried this morning..When trying to unlock the radio, I put the fuse back in for the Radio, turned ignition on and heard the CD player spin with nothing in it and then LOCKED came on. Tried to unlock it and nothing when pushing all buttons. Shut ignition off again, took fuse out and put in again and heard CD player spin again. My guess is Radio itself has a short or something? What to do? I don't know if it's a short, the radio itself or the Retained Accessory Power...
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I was taking my '94 Caprice to work yesterday morning in the rain, when my headlights started to flicker, then the car died. I lost everything electrical, but the starter and the change oil light, which is on constantly. When I turn the key in the ignition, nothing turns on which means no fuel pump, but car still cranks over. I have checked a lot of places for a loss of power but can't find anything. All fuses are good, fusible links are good, unless I am missing checking one somewhere. Battery keeps draining also, but I don't think it is just draining from the check oil light being on. Drains quick too. Never had this problem before.
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I have a 2009 F 250 5.4L, couple days ago it acted as if the alternator had gone out and killed the battery. I swapped batteries with a coworker to get the truck home and when I hooked the battery back up, the battery and the alternator both tested fine. I've put the voltmeter on periodically and everything seems to be fine and all electronics are working except for the radio. I did a light test on the fuse and it showed a bad fuse so I tested the fuse and it tested fine and I put a new fuse in and tried the light test again and it failed. What the problem could be?
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I just bought a 2008 BMW 535ia. I owned it four days before the battery died. I went back to the dealer I bought from and he told me that it was my fault -- I didn't drive the car enough. Said due to "advanced electronics" car has to be driven for at least 30 minutes each and every time other wise battery will continue to drain.
I work at home so I only drive the car three or four days a week,mostly for a 10 minute trip to town. I'm afraid to take this car anywhere. For me, luxury now means having a car that you know will start.
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I own an 89 jag xj6. Something seems to be draining the battery. It can start fine in the evening but by the next morning its dead. If it sets too long its completely dead.. nothing... The alternator appears to be charging, after running it awhile it will start again. I put a new battery in it several months ago. The former owner said something about it maybe being a switch of some sort that has something to do with the climate control system?
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I've been having an issue with my 2008 for the last several months and was wondering if this is a common problem, or unique to my vehicle.
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Just bought a 2006 Prius, ironically only has 31,000 km on it.
Recently, mostly today, i noticed the battery has been draining quite fast. I was at 2 bars from full(or 3? whatever is pre "green") and probably 5-10min later i was 2 bars and the gas engine was running. Whatever seemed odd, maybe the traffic was a little slower today.
However i started driving 80kph and it took over 5 minutes for the car , without battery running, to bump from 5 bars up to 6. The electric motor was literally not driving the whole time, it was strictly gas the whole 5 min.
I was also considering taking this car for an inspection at the dealer just to ensure everything is okay before winter hits.
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I have replaced the alternator and battery has good clean connections and cables. I have pulled the fuses for the interior lights and radio and alarm and it still keeps dying. The battery will be dead randomly could be overnight could be a few days...
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my wife now drives what was originally my 2005 Honda Civic from '05-'10. In the last 3 or so years since she's been driving it, the Civic has developed a tendency to die on her at inopportune times. A quick jump always fixes the problem but I never, ever had this problem myself when I was driving it and I've had the battery tested at AutoZone twice with both techs telling me the battery was in great shape with cranking amps well above its rating. I've offered to just buy a new battery and eliminate the issue but the "it's fine" report from AZ has me puzzled.
I have noticed that corrosion tends to build up on her positive battery terminal very quickly and I suspect she's getting some drain due to that but I'm stymied as to why it happens. The only thing (and its a stretch) that I can think of is she has a habit that her father taught her of cranking the heat, the defroster AND the A/C in her car when it's cold out. Normally I wouldn't think this would make a difference but I wonder if there is somehow condensation developing in that tiny little Civic engine bay as a result?
I've asked her not to do it and see if the situation improves but old habits die hard. The battery does tend to come up dead (of course) more in the winter but it's not an exclusively cold weather situation. Anyway, after jumping her car in single digits this morning before dawn I am ready to admit defeat and just get a new battery but figured I'd throw it out to the many voices here.
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I have a megaphone that I installed a while ago but I connected it straight to the battery. I noticed that it was draining my battery so I had to disconnect it. Now I am trying to figure out how i should connect this megaphone to my car without it draining the battery, when I am not using it.
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We got the car a couple days ago. It was running fine then, although suspiciously the guy we bought it from had it running when we got there, leading me to believe he knew about the problem already and didn't want us to. The problem is that after my dad drove it to work yesterday, he tried to start it up at lunch and it wouldn't start. It didn't sound like the starter was trying at all, just a bunch of electronic clicks. However, the electronics all work, dash lights, headlights, locks, etc. It just doesn't seem to be able to start up.
When we took it to a shop for an unrelated issue, a mechanic said there were wires hanging down in the trunk for a sub, and we knew this but thought it was no big deal. He told us that if it was wired wrong, it could be draining the battery, even without being hooked up to a sub. I checked the battery, and there were a few extra wires hanging off the negative terminal. However, that doesn't make sense to me, how could a couple of wires attached to just the negative terminal do anything?
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Clutch for the AC Compressor will not disengage even with the AC off. The only way I can daily the car is if I disconnect the power from the AC Compressor at the compressor itself. Seems the AC compressor has a constant draw if it is plugged in.
Plugged = dead battery...
Unplugged = good battery...
I'm getting ready to rip the damn thing off the engine and calling it a day, but that would defeat the purpose of me buying a new compressor.
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