Accord :: Idle Decreased As Engine Temperature Increased
Nov 23, 2011
I have a 1998 Honda Accord Coupe with a 2.3L straight 4 with a 5 speed manual. Last night when I was driving home the car was idling at around 200 RPM when the engine was warm. And then this morning it started fine, ran fine, but as the engine temperature increased the idle decreased, as it should. But even when it wasn't fully at the proper temp it was idling at 500 RPM. When it warmed up to the proper temp it was idling at 150, yes 150. It was touching the 0 RPM line, but it didn't stall. It has had problems in the past with initial low idling, like when you disengage the clutch, but never constantly idling so low. Keep in mind that the idling hasn't progressively gotten lower over time. The problem just arose last night. Also, it accelerates fine, and the check engine light isn't on. What is most likely the cause?
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While driving my 2006 Sonata yesterday I noticed a tapping noise that increased and decreased with speed. Not really loud, but audible. I looked and really didn't see anything. However, I looked earlier a little closer and noticed my left front wheel has a rubber looking belt, hose (unsure) laying across the inside part of wheel, closer to what I assume is caliper.
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I have a 2005 Prius that's got a strange temperature control problem. When the temperature is set to MAX COLD, then it blows cold air as expected. As soon as the temperature is increased slightly (say to 65 degrees) the air gets really hot - as if it is already on MAX HOT. Between 65 and MAX HOT, the air stays consistently very hot.
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So over the past year, I've noticed an increased 'hum' while driving in my 2001 Honda Accord Sedan. Originally this only occurred while going 80 on the Interstate. I just passed it off as going over the speed limit and tires then. Over the past few months however, I've noticed it occurring at speeds as low as 30-40mph. It's not deafening, but is a solid 'mmmmm' coming from what sounds like the rear left tire. When I make a right-turning curve the sound lessens or vanishes during that curve entirely, but a left-turning curve makes no change to the sound. As I slow to below 30mph, the sound disappears.
The rear tires are due for replacing soon, but I've driven on MUCH barer tires in college with no recollection of this sort of sound (in other cars). The wheel appears to be solid with no wobble as well.
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2001 honda crv wont idle when warm. Had cylinder head checked and valves ground replaced the iac new plugs cap and rotor ...
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I have a 6th Gen 2007 Toyota Camry with the 4 cylinder engine with 150,000 miles, original owner.
After changing the car battery, the engine idle when at operating temperature went from the stock 650 to 450 RPMs. The engine does not stall and runs amazingly smooth at 450, but the drive ability from start is jerky and the car will roll backwards in drive on a small grade while in drive.
Another tip, before this issue, when cold on start up the engine would rev to about 2,000 RPM's then slowly drop which I understood to be normal and part of the emissions system. Now it revs to about a 1,000 and quickly drops to 450.
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Over the past month I've notice the idle speed increasing. Yesterday I had to turn the idle adjustment screw to lower the idle speed, as the high idle speed was making it difficult to drive in stop and go traffic. Especially if I took my foot off the gas while in gear, it would jerk rather than slowing down smoothly as it used to. I think the jerking was related to how the ECM stops the injectors completely when slowing down in gear, to improve mpg, then before the rpms gets too low, fire the injectors back up again. Anyway, lowering the idle speed with the adjustment screw fixed the jerking problem, for now.
But in 20 years, I've never had this occur before. The only time I've fiddled with the idle adjustment screw was during tune-ups, and then only had to adjust it 5-15 degrees. This time I had to turn it in 45 degrees. I expect there is unwanted air getting into the intake manifold somehow. And it will probably get worse. Here's some ideas -- in order of most likely to least likely -- I've had what could be causing it.
Throttle valve sticking in throttle body and needs a cleaning.
Throttle linkage needs a lube.
Canister purge valve is open during idle and allowing fumes from the canister into the intake manifold, when it shouldn't be.
Throttle position switch has failed.
Vacuum hose or device leaking.
IAC valve (part of throttle body in this car) is sticking.
ECM is bumping the idle speed through the vacuum controlled actuator (VSD). Unlikely, b/c the idle speed still increases when I turn the headlights on or I turn the steering wheel, both of which use this mechanism (I think).
Thermostat -- unlikely as it happens even when the coolant has reached 195 deg F (when the fan turns on).
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I used to get really good mileage on my 12.5 mile commute, if I didn't reach 50 miles per gallon, I considered it a poor commute. But over the last several hundred miles, I have only averaged about 45 miles per gallon - sometimes I'm not even reaching 40 mpg. I checked my tires, they are fine. I also notice that the gasoline engine is running a lot. I'll be at a stop sign, and the battery is nearly full, but the gas engine is running.
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I have a 2000 Accord with a 2.3L 4 cylinder and manual transmission. I just changed the timing belt, balancer belt, water pump, tensioner wheels and other external belts. I now get a bad engine vibration at idle and when backing up and pulling forward. The vibration is quite noticeable in the steering wheel. Revving the engine smooths it out at certain RPM's. I know this isn't right and its got to be limited to something I just did. I followed the instructions in the Honda service manual and thought that everything went back to gather correctly. I double checked the timing and balancer alignments. The motor mount on the drivers side is simple and all went back together correctly. Is there a way to verify correct timing belt and balancer belt alignments without tearing it all down again?
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My '96 Honda Accord has about 174,000 miles on it. Three weeks ago I checked my oil and the oil was black and way above the full level. I had also been adding 8-9 ounces of coolant previous to checking the level.
My coolant temp gauge has never gone beyond normal range. Two mechanics said I had a blown head gasket. I decided to change the oil and filter and only put in 4 quarts of oil. The level is only up about 1/4 inch level and the rest of the dipstick is completely clear. My friends also checked and it is so clean, like there is no oil in the car, but I have no signs of oil leaking. My oil pressure gauge shows normal pressure.
I continue to add 2-3 ounces of coolant each week. Early in the morning the engine shudders a minute or two before calming to a normal idle. I only drive around town a little, 75 miles a week. Can I continue running the car in this condition? If so, for how long? There is nothing else wrong with the car. Is it worth repairing?
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98 Honda Accord with 2.3L has 354,000 miles on it and up until recently ran like it was still new. Have developed erratic idle speeds. When it is cold it idles around 1100-1200 rpm. When the radiator fans are on or the A/C compressor is on it runs around 800-900 rpm. These are normal speeds and great. However, when the engine is warm/hot, in PARK, radiator fans are off, and A/C compressor kicks off, the idle speed drops to what appears to be about a rough idling 500 rpm's and the engine can barely stay running. I've attempted to look for the obvious. I own the Honda Shop Service manual if there is a particular component or most likely suspect area I should start at.
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1991 Honda Accord DX A/T A/C. The engine is surging/searching at idle in park and in neutral from 1000 up to 2400. There are no engine fault codes.
I have cleaned the IAC, adjusted the TPS, Removed/Cleaned/Re-installed the TB, No MAP problem. I also removed the "black box" and checked the cold idle control diaphragm as best I could. I cannot find any specs on testing this. When I apply vacuum to it via the center port on the bottom it holds the vacuum, but takes approx 5 seconds for the diaphragm to "pop" to its ambient state after releasing vacuum.
I have sprayed all possible vacuum hoses along with all intake gaskets to test for vacuum leaks.
I have attached a diagram of the black smog box that is mounted on the firewall. The cold idle diaphragm is labeled as 2. I also have concerns about that electrical vacuum solenoid labeled 27.
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[URL] ....
The problem with my truck is not that its regen'ing too often, the problem is that its STUCK in regen cycle. For the past 4-5 days my truck has been going into regen about 1-2 min after i start driving it, every single time i start her up. If i start my truck in the morning and let it warm up for a few min, i come out and my truck is idling higher then normal and has an increased exhaust smell, but when i aply the brake the idle goes back to normal. Then i start driving up the street and BAM "cleaning exhaust filter" message comes up and the and immediately the sound of the exhaust and induction changes and it sounds like sputtering/knocking.
Sometimes the the engine will flutter in decel or shutdown. HORRIBLE gas mileage, Reduced engine response and power, and white smoke is cooler temps. Basically all of the normal signs of a regen cycle, am i wrong? Im pretty sure its either a dpf sensor or possibly something wrong with the DPF? I haven't had one problem with my 2010 besides an egr valve and she has 167k miles and is completely stock and im very happy with my truck! 2010 6.4L
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It only burns oil when the ambient temp is above freezing. Why would this be?
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!995 honda accord, 5 speed. Idle is fine until the engine warms up, then fluctuates between 1500 to 2500 rpms. The idle control valve was cleaned- no change. Valve was also replaced -also with no change. Put old valve back on. Computer was disconnected after cleaning and also after each valve change.Would the next step be to remove and clean the fast idle thermo sensor? Also how do you check the coolant lines coming in. Anything else I would need to check, clean or replace.
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I have a 93 accord ex sedan, 4 cylinder, automatic that I bought in August. I live in South Dakota & it's starting to get cold here. When I first bought the car the temp gauge was working fine in that it would move to the middle of hot/cold range. Recently, I've noticed the interior doesn't get warm for awhile, even after driving 20 miles. It blows warm air but it seems like it should be warmer. I've also noticed the temperature gauge barely moves, if it does at all. Most of the time it doesn't move or just stays on cold. I did some research on here & thought I would try to change the thermostat, upper & lower hose and the antifreeze. I'm hoping this will heat up the interior better because it's starting to get cold here & fix the temp gauge.
Previously, I had a 91 accord & that would warm up great, even when it was bitterly cold here. What would cause the temp gauge to do this? I'm even thinking about changing the transmission control module because I read on here that could cause the gauges to have wrong readings. The speedo & rpm gauges also seem to have wrong readings, especially in the mornings or when I first drive it. I used my gps & found the speedo to be off by as much as 10 mph. The other item I've noticed is that I only get around 23-25 mpg highway & on my other accord I was averaging 28-30 mpg highway. Not sure if this is related or not but thought the more info the better.
I have done all the basic maintenance-oil & filter, plugs & wires, valve cover gasket, air filter, tranny fluid but have never done anything with the heating/cooling system.
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Two things are going on with my car. First, when I drive at freeway speeds and turn on the heater, the car temperature drops and then I hear the sound of a tea kettle going off. Second, I hear an off and on sound coming from under the hood on the passenger side. It sounds like metal scratching on metal or like a soft whistle sound. 1997 Honda Accord LX
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I have had my honda for a few months now and have had a few problems in that time. At first it started with the check engine light coming on when heated up but then my car began to randomly die while I'm driving down the road. Every time that it would die I was able to start it back up almost right after it died. Also when I come to a stop my temperature gauge will start to rise and when I turn the car off I can hear the fans continuing to run for about 10 mins. Now my car will drive until it heats up and then it will die and not start back up until it has cooled down. My dad told me that he thought that my main relay went bad but I replaced that and nothing has changed...
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After the very hard runs up in the mountains at SoWo, I've began to experience some engine movement when the car shifts at low speeds, i.e. stop and go traffic. At its worst, I've experienced a clicking or almost grinding-like sound sound when said engine movement (during the low speed shifting/accelerating/stopping) takes place. These noises tend to come and go. They were really bad at one point on the ride home - when an accident in Atlanta brought traffic to an almost standstill and we were stuck in bumper to bumper traffic. Today however, no noise at all.
I took a quick look under the car and my HPA core mount (which I thought may have completely fallen out for some reason ) is still there. I haven't jacked the car up yet to get under it or put it up on a lift but considering the symptoms, I have reason to believe my OEM pendulum mount may be damaged, or that the pendulum bolts may have come loose after the very spirited driving in Helen.
At high speeds, there is no sound and no (apparent or noticeable) increase in engine movement.
[URL] .... This thread in the MKIV R forum is closest to the symptoms I'm experiencing.
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord - VTec - 4Cyl - 2.3L - Engine Type: F23A1.
The temperature gauge in the dash board does not function. I was told the temperature sending unit must be changed.
Where exactly on the engine is this unit located?
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I was in cruise control at 50 and pressed and held the increase speed button to pass a car and once i got to 55 and still holding it the check engine light flashed twice a second until i released the increase speed button. Are you not suppose hold that button? Could this be APR related? I also noticed that the speed doesn't matter, it could be at any speed just hold it for like 5 seconds...
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