Accord :: 93 - Vacuum Drops Off To Zero Within Seconds Of Acceleration
Oct 10, 2009
1993 accord LX- Thought I had the problem solved by taking the 6 small port plugs out of the emissions system and cleaning up all the buildup plus opening the ports back up that were plugged.
When I put a vacuum gauge on the black rubber hose going from the control box to the EGR valve there is an initial buildup of vacuum upon acceleration but within seconds it drops off to zero. I switched control boxes and used one my brother had from his 91 accord he parted out and still had the same result.
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This problem just cost me a new starter and flywheel, cuz after cranking my engine so many times the starter mess up the flywheel teths, anyways, i install a fuel gauge and i find out that my pressure drops in seconds, like i turn the key on (pos ii) and but the time i get out the car to the engine bay to look at the gauge, the pressure is almost ZERO
When I open the door the fuel pump primes and built pressure, when i turn the key i heard the pump primes too, but why does the pressure drops so fast?
I have an aeromotive fpr, and a bosch in line pump, turbo set up and 550 cc injectors( brand new )...
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I have a 2004 Explorer 4.0L v6 that I recently charged the AC in. The engine was rebuilt not to long ago so the AC was completely recovered (bought it from a friend), so I know I started fresh. I am not by any means a novice mechanic but, just dabbling into the AC world and have watched a ton of how to videos, and what not.
I went out and bought a set of manifold gauges as well as a vacuum pump. I do have the rear air on this one so it takes (correct me if im wrong) 56oz of refrigerant. I pulled a vacuum of 28 (mercury?) and it held it for a good hour so, I am pretty sure no leaks. I went ahead and charged the system... Compressor kicked on like normal, air got cold, and everything seemed to be going just like it should be. I went by just a random r134a ambient pressure chart NOT from ford.
I thought great this is going to be like new! Well, now the problem i'm having is in the mornings at say 65-85 degrees it blows ice cold. Once the sun gets higher in the sky, and it gets up to 95-100, it doesn't seem to be able to keep up, even driving for miles and miles. I noticed the rear air evaporater low side, doesn't seem to feel very cold either. Does this mean I might be over charged/under charged?
I have a video of the pressures at 2000 RPM, AC set to "max", both front and rear fans set to highest setting, windows down. At 31 seconds, the pressure drop is because I let off the throttle and let it idle for a bit, so you can see those pressures.
Copy of 04 explorer ac status - YouTube....
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Two things are going on with my car. First, when I drive at freeway speeds and turn on the heater, the car temperature drops and then I hear the sound of a tea kettle going off. Second, I hear an off and on sound coming from under the hood on the passenger side. It sounds like metal scratching on metal or like a soft whistle sound. 1997 Honda Accord LX
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Like a good boy scout, last week I changed the engine air and cabin filters in my 59K-mile 2007 Honda Accord.
Taking out the air filter, I saw the usual insects and dust in the housing and got out the shopvac to suck them out. But the hose was on the wrong port, and I ended up blowing the insects and dust everywhere. Augghhh! Into the intake manifold for sure, I'd bet. I connected the hose right, put it to the air intake, and prayed I was vacuuming all the dust I'd just blown in.
The next day, on the way to college, the car ran perfectly the first three miles. Then, a half mile from campus, the check engine light came on and the car began running badly. RPMs wouldn't increase even if the gas pedal was pressed. The speed couldn't be made to go above about 20 mph. The transmission, ordinarily smooth as silk, now clunked. Fortunately, I was able to reach the college parking lot. I parked the car and went to class, hoping the car would fix itself while I was gone.
Apparently it did. After the three hours I was in classes, the car started up just fine, and it drove home just fine. Except that the check engine light was still on.
At home, I used my OBD2 checker (bought five years ago but never until now even taken out of its packaging; love my Accord), saw a fault of P2101, and erased it. That made the check engine light go out. P2101 has to do with air/fuel, so it must be related to the air filter fiasco of yesterday.
By the way, there's a rattle from the glove compartment (which is lowered to replace the cabin filter). When the compartment door is open, the rattle goes away. Will troubleshoot this later. Am more concerned with being certain the check engine light doesn't come back. I don't want to go into limp mode on the highway, hours from home.
Two days later, I took advantage of a Sunday afternoon to try to blow/clean out the injectors and intake manifold. I put in a bottle of Techron and drove the car 45 miles, mostly on a nearby semi-rural highway. It has a 70 mph speed limit but at times traffic was doing 80. (Texas.) The car ran perfectly, both highway and city.
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The leak is only present when it rains. It drops from behind the dashboard onto the foot rest (left of the break pedal) soaking the floor mat and carpet. Where is the water coming from and how can I plug the leak? 2002 Honda Accord EX...
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my 1990 Nissan 300zx with 136,000 miles often surges at highway speeds for several seconds then drops back down to normal. the surge is usually 1000 rpm. does not happen if not in overdrive, and will not happen unless having been driving for 15 minutes or so. also seems to occur more on hot days (80 degree +) than on cool days. mechanic has looked at this several times but not yet able to determine why.
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I have 93 GT-S, AT, 2.2, 163,000 miles.
My problem is slow acceleration. As I get on the highway and give it the gas my car slowly climbs to my travel speed at 75 mph. She will climb steady at around 3000-3100 rpm. When I punch it the car revs to approx. 4000 rpm but then quickly drops back to 3000 without me letting off the gas. Almost sounds like its bogging down. Another thing I noticed while cruising at around 65 mph is that the car bucks a little but I don't hear any misfiring. Also, when I do step on the gas, the car is severely louder. Almost sounds like it's coming from under the hood. I tried parking it, opening the hood, and listened to the engine while giving her the gas but she sounds much quieter. So the louder noise seems to happen under load. Please note there is no check engine light.
Is this one issue or possibly multiple issues? Could my TPS be an issue here as well?
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For reasons I can't figure, the Temp gauge on the wife's Explorer is shooting from normal to high in just seconds. Then, it drops back to normal. When I looked at it this afternoon, I noted 2 things.
1) There was no sign of a coolant leak or overheating.
2) There wasn't ANY coolant in the tank!!!!!!!
The truck has evidently been running fine while this is going on.
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My GTI has started to bog out, i guess is the best way to describe... As I am trying to accelerate on the highway my RPMs rev up to 5000 till I get any response to amount of gas I am giving. It will dramatically drop to 3000 without letting off the gas. then gradually will accelerate, untypical to way it use to perform. She respond this way cold or hot.
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177,000 miles, fuel pump was replaced just before I purchased it a few weeks ago. Truck has been running like new until today when it started doing this completely out of the blue. If you watch the video, the sound is not off, the tach is moving independently of the sound of the actual revs. Occasionally when doing this, the fuel gauge drops to zero. Thinking this is an electrical issue somewhere.
YouTube.....
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For those of you with more experience with the Hymotion pack than I:
1) What does it mean when the car "chirps?" It seems like I get 3 or 4 chirps on occasion, with each chirp itself being a rapid succession of 3 individual chirps? I assume it is something to do with the Hymotion pack because I never heard them before the pack was installed.
2) Under light acceleration, say 1 mph/sec, when the engine is just barely contributing to acceleration, at around 31mph (+/-) the engine stops putting out power (the arrows from the engine disappear), the car noticeably hesitates when the engine drops out, I get 3 or 4 chirps, then the engine comes back "online" about a second or two later and all is well. Under normal (i.e. faster) rates of acceleration, this does not happen.
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I noticed tonight my 4.6 V-8 Aviator is acting a bit sluggish, not bad, but still noticeable. I'm pretty sure I heard a hissing noise, almost like a vacuum leak. Would that vacuum leak caused by the pcv valve cause sub-par acceleration? I'm going to check the pcv valve in the morning. is there more than one pcv valve.hose on these 4.6 V-8's? I'm asking because I was reading about the pcv hose/valve in these 4.6 V-8's, some people on this forum had vacuum leaks caused by the pcv valve failing, being that it connects to the intake manifold.
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I have recently developed a vacuum leak on my 2002 F-350 V-10 under the passenger side of the dash. It is only audible when I am accelerating moderately to heavily or when the truck downshifts going up a hill. None of the vehicles HVAC or ESOF functions seem to be affected by this leak from what I can tell, but it's rather annoying to listen to this loud sucking noise every time I hit the gas moderately hard such as climbing a hill or merging onto the freeway. I don't know how I could search for this leak since it only happens when I'm driving and accelerating and not at a stop. What might be going on or where I should begin my search?
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I have an 04 F150 (4.6, auto, 4x4, SCrew) with 300,000 miles. Any success modifying existing 4X4 IWE actuators so they are always locked in?
My last set of actuators didn't last long My vacuum is too low under hard acceleration... Actuators partially engage leading to early failure.
I'd like to take an actuator apart, modify it so it's always locked in. Some loss of mileage? Other ramifications?
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My son drives a 99 Honda Accord with over 180k miles.Today as he turned a corner, the lights dimmed and the gauges baled to zero and then all went back to normal- happened within seconds. No loss of steering or braking control.
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I had major tune up on my vehicle. First I had the timing belt and accessory belts replaced including of course the water pump. I also had the shocks replaced. My question is now everytime I start the car I would hear a screeching noise for several seconds and also when I engaged the a/c. Furthermore, in regards to my shocks when I drive over 60 mph my steering wheel begins to vibrate tremendously.
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Honda accord( 2005), Engine lights off and on, Radio goes off a few seconds and then reboots by itself , ABS lights off and on, car still runs, power seems to be down slightly when engine lights comes on , stalled twice, but restarted right away. Relay switch replaced, PCM replaced( Diagnosis suggested) , problem continues.What should I check next ?
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I have a 2008 Honda Accord that about 4 months ago the drl light on the dashboard would come on for a few seconds and then go off. This happened 2 or 3 times a week. During this time the driver side drl light would also quit working. A couple of weeks later it progressed to the drl dashboard light would come on, then the tpms dashboard light would also come on. After an intermittent period of time (seconds to minutes) the icon showing low tire pressure would flash for a second and the drl light and tpms light would go off. This happened maybe 3 times in a day, then not happen again for a week or so. Air pressure in all tires was correct. About week ago it progressed to the drl dashboard light and the tpms dashboard light stay on all the time and neither the drl light (drl mode or high beam or will work on the driver side. In the past few days the low beam on the driver side has also quit working.
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I have a '92 Honda Accord LX and has 200,000 mi. When I tried to start the car it will not start. The engine will not turn over and a rapid clicking will follow a few seconds later. I do not think its the battery b/c the radio still works as well as the lights. I'm suspecting it might be the starter motor or the solenoid?
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The car runs great and has over 210k miles. The only thing that I can't figure out is that under hard acceleration, around 20-30 mph, the car chatters. If I let go the gas, then the chatter stops. So I think it's related to the engine but not sure what is the culprit.
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