Accord :: 88 LXi - Uneven Acceleration When RPM Is In Range Of About 2200 - 2800
Sep 25, 2011
The car accelerates unevenly when the rpm is in the range of about 2200 - 2800 rpm. Above that engine speed, it quickly smooths out. I replaced the distributor in it in Jan. 2010 and I'm wondering whether the distributor and/or vacuum advance is the cause of this behavior. I don't know whether the distributor also has a centrifugal advance. If it does, then I guess that could another possible cause.
Could I test the vacuum advance by disconnecting the 2 vacuum lines from the vacuum advance control? How to troubleshoot this behavior?
The distributor was bundled with the vacuum advance control, so I presume I'd be replacing the whole assembly if I can verify that the distributor or vacuum advance control is the problem.
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Over the past month, my car has been hesitating in 3/4 gear right around the 1900-2200 RPM range. The tach moves up and down (like a rev limiter) between that RPM range for a few seconds then it is okay. I notice it mostly when I get on the expressway. The car has 185000 miles and here is a list of things that I have replaced along with the mileage that I think might possibly be the issue:
Mass Air Sensor -163000
Tune up - 160000 (Plugs + Wires)
Fuel Filter - 145000
I checked through the forums and didn't see my particular issue. Thoughts on the issue?
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GT, 3/8L non supercharged.
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The particulars are 2003 Camry, 4 cyl, manual trans. When it gets to be 90 degrees or hotter outside, the car hiccups when accelerating through 2800 rpm. That is the most common scenario. Pretty much any gear and the problem gets worse the hotter to outside air. It never throws a code or check engine light. It doesn't stall although it feels like an instantaneous loss of ignition. I can set the cruise control and it will periodically happen when driving through the desert. It repeats as often as it wants to....no overall pattern, uphill or flat, no difference. Dealer says nothing is wrong since it won't throw a code. No issue in the winter, only hot summer driving.
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So I just had the 10k service done on my GTI and after I got it back everything seemed fine. That is, until under moderate acceleration there was a weird buzz or vibration that came on around 2800-3400rpm coming from what I think is the engine bay or near the firewall on the passenger side. I was able to repeat the issue multiple times and it showed up every time. However, with the car at a stop and in neutral and revving it I can't make the problem occur only when under load, in gear, and traveling at speed. If I could describe it, it sounds like a playing card against bicycle spokes (for those of us who did that when we were kids)..
Anyways, I drove it straight back to the dealer and at that point had closed their service shop but they did do the right thing and give me a loaner car until they can look at it on Monday. How the heck could this pop up after a 10k service? What all do they do besides oil change, tire rotation, and fluid inspection?
I did pop the hood and one of the side of the fuel rail sounded louder than the other, I suspected that maybe one injector is starting to go and it seemed like an isolated noise but perhaps its not an injector at all. Nonetheless it seems this is a non-related issue..
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My v4 99'accord 4cyl with 152K miles had stalled a few months back.*the idle was rough/uneven.. *in stop-and-go traffic sometimes when i would hit the gas pedal, engine would almost skip a beat or two, and sometimes stall..
The car shop changed the ignition switch..they cleaned out the EGR valve which had plenty of carbon build up.after cleaning out the EGR valve the idle was much better.. But over time the idle has gotten worse. i fear another stall is around the corner. Is the EGR valve bad?
Another thing i noticed while test driving in the parking lot, i stop and start again by applying low but uniform pressure on the gas,the engine picks up, then drops, and then picks up and drops a few times before the car finally picks up speed..
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I have been working through a variety of problems on my 01 AWM with TIP. Im down to two issues that maybe related but Im not really sure. The car idles very rough once warmed up (idles smoother cold). The other is in the way the car delivers its power. Its a un -smooth, kind of pulses at different times jerky and its inconsistent. There are currently no lights on and hasnt been for almost a year. On the last scan the only code that was stores was P01040 (cat). Here is what I have done so far;
Replaces plugs and coil packs Replaced fuel filter Cleaned MAF and TB New N75 valve New DV Cleaned pancake valve replaced 6 vacumn lines with leaks.
Maybe Im missing something here but I think im pretty much down to the PCV system under the intake. Should I just order a rebuild kit from ECS and dig in?
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My 2011 Sonata 2.4L GDI has already 76k miles. Spark plugs were replaced around 75K miles, Air filter was replaced. Fuel treatment was done several time since ownership, Intake CRC for GDI was used once about 2K miles ago. The car is doing good until recently. When I accelerate the car acceleration goes uneven. It is not like hesitating but you feel like the car is taking it in steps. Sometimes the first run in the morning, the car idle feels a little bit rough but that's only in the morning. It has been like that for a month now. What do you think it can be? No Check engine light, no pending codes and nothing major except that. I really suspect a bad upstream oxygen sensor (Air fuel ratio sensor). What do you think?
A look through the intake shows a very clean intake. No signs for any carbon deposit. A Hyundai dealer checked the car and told me there is nothing to worry about. Just told me to buy more Hyundai fuel treatment (AKA Chevron Techron) which was done and still I feel uneven acceleration.
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OEM plus. 93k. Um tune. Evoms intake.
Did the plugs and coil packs, fuel filter, cleaned throttle body (Did a vagcom alignment) as well as some other insignificant maintance.
Car ran fine for weeks after, but recently it has started to bounce around randomly at idle. Like 650rpm(normal) for a few seconds. Then it will Slowly climb to 800rpms, hold there for a few seconds. Then back down to 650ish for a few seconds, then back up to 800 for a few seconds. And so on. It's very subtle and very random. Then sometimes when accelerating, I can feel it in the gas peddle. Like a slight pulsing power loss. Very slight and of a similar rhythm to the idle issue.
I do have a check engine light for Load Calculation cross check-p1143-001 upper limit exceeded. But that has been a battle I have been fighting for a year or so, and I think that is some kind of vacuum leak, but this rpm issue just started a few weeks ago. The only thing I was thinking so far is that when I was doing the plugs and coil packs, I noticed that there was a slight bit of what looked like dielectric grease on each coil pack already from the factory. So I didn't put any more in the coil packs sleeve part that fits over the plug. So was that a mistake? And if it was a mistake would this be a symptom of that?
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The Honda dealership read the check engine light code on my Honda 2002 Accord, that said the catalytic convertor is not operating within the efficiency range(plus the converter has a rattle in it...it is not the heat shield as it was taken off years ago). They said it was too expensive to have fixed at the dealership and to find an independent repair shop to replace the converter.
They warned me to not get the cheap universal converter as the check engine light for the converter would come back on and stay on. They said get a more expensive one but would not give any specific brand or price range and said it SHOULD keep the check engine light from coming about the converter.
I have an independent shop and they agreed about never using an universal converter. However when I press them about the $270 converter they would put on would keep the check engine light for the converter from coming on, they hesitated in assuring me it would not come on.
Honda Accord converter can be replaced with an after market converter, what did it cost, and did it keep the check engine light for the converter from coming on?
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W12 2004 light vibration/struggling during light.
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The car runs great and has over 210k miles. The only thing that I can't figure out is that under hard acceleration, around 20-30 mph, the car chatters. If I let go the gas, then the chatter stops. So I think it's related to the engine but not sure what is the culprit.
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1993 accord LX- Thought I had the problem solved by taking the 6 small port plugs out of the emissions system and cleaning up all the buildup plus opening the ports back up that were plugged.
When I put a vacuum gauge on the black rubber hose going from the control box to the EGR valve there is an initial buildup of vacuum upon acceleration but within seconds it drops off to zero. I switched control boxes and used one my brother had from his 91 accord he parted out and still had the same result.
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Incosistently when accelerating the car jerks (like when wheels spin out in rain). Car works just fine in Idle and has been working great, except for the occassional jerking. I would like to know what I should check and if its dangerous to drive, depending on what the problem might be.
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord V6 that has some acceleration hesitation and general jerkiness, usually noticeable when the car has been sitting for a long period of time (overnight). The symptoms seem to dissipate after 5 - 10 minutes of driving.
When I begin accelerating, the car feels like it hesitates when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. If I let off the gas a bit, then the car jerks a bit.
I'm sure it's not the transmission, because the dealer said the fluid and everything looks fine. Additionally, I have another Accord (2000) that does have a failing transmission and the symptoms on that one are very different from this 2003.
A couple of months ago, I was getting a CEL and had a friend of mine read the code with his OBD tool. It indicated that Bank 1 Sensor 1 was bad. I replaced it with a Denso. I think the problem got better at that point, but has "worsened" again over the past month or so.
Any clues what this might be? Things I can try? Ways to narrow down the issue?
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I have a 1999 Honda Accord (4 Cylinder, 180,000 miles). After a recent blizzard here in Wisconsin I am hearing a "whirring" sound coming from the front end of my car. I begin to hear it at about 10mph and it gets progressively louder and begins to sound like a jet at cruising altitude. The car overall sounds louder on the road. I checked for the possibility of snow/ice packed around the wheels or underneath the car but don't see any. A wheel bearing possibly?
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I test-drove a 1994 Honda Accord with 140K today. Looking for reliable car for relative, and this was one of the better options, on paper at least, in the price range.It drove like a used car, but I was concerned about one thing: A ping when accelerating from low speed. It didn't do it constantly, but only when going from a standstill or slowdown back up to speed. The seller said he'd been told it was an issue with the catalytic converter. I've been told that a higher octane fuel will sometimes quell a ping in an engine with no knock sensor.Is this something I should be worried about? Is the high-octane rumor true? The car was otherwise very nicely maintained.
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Mechanic could not find any codes on my 98 Honda Accord... The car was intermittently hesitating upon acceleration... There were no leaks or no burning odor. He recommended replacing the transmission and failed to adhere to code 3361.1... The car performed the same way after the transmission was replaced and he "could not duplicate" the problem and therefore could not fix it... He did state the clutch were burnt on the car. After failing a smog check I brought the car to a different mechanic who changed the oxygen sensor and the car has been running fine.
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I have a '92 accord 5 speed. I began to notice that when I step on the accelerator theirs a slight hesistation. It is very prominent when shifting gearsNo problem when the car is idling.
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord V6 that has some acceleration hesitation and general jerkiness, usually noticeable when the car has been sitting for a long period of time (overnight). The symptoms seem to dissipate after 5 - 10 minutes of driving.
When I begin accelerating, the car feels like it hesitates when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. If I let off the gas a bit, then the car jerks a bit.
I'm sure it's not the transmission, because the dealer said the fluid and everything looks fine. Additionally, I have another Accord (2000) that does have a failing transmission and the symptoms on that one are very different from this 2003.
A couple of months ago, I was getting a CEL and had a friend of mine read the code with his OBD tool. It indicated that Bank 1 Sensor 1 was bad. I replaced it with a Denso. I think the problem got better at that point, but has "worsened" again over the past month or so.
Any clues what this might be? Things I can try? Ways to narrow down the issue?
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My 2005 Accord steering wheel shakes quite a bit when I start to accelerate. I had the tires rebalanced, and it's still happening. The dealership indicated that there was "play" in both axles, and they both needed to be replaced ..... There's 85,000 miles on the vehicle and it's in excellent condition, could this shaking be caused by something else ?
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My 2003 Honda Accord with 101,000 miles started hesitating on acceleration, and a day later my check engine light came on. I went to the auto parts store to borrow one of their diagnostic computers. The code I received for the engine light was from my O2 sensor. What can cause the hesitation and the O2 sensor to read faulty? I have had several O2 sensors go out on other vehicles, but that hasn’t caused any other symptoms before. I would like it to be that simple, seeing as how easy they are to replace, but I don’t want to get my hopes up. Anyway, the car is parked now and I am taking the bus because I can’t afford to take it to a mechanic. I don’t want to waste any money by starting to replace things without having better direction.
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