Accord :: 2007 - Starter Doesn't Crank- All Dash Lights Are On
Aug 12, 2012
Problem started within the last 2 days. Get in the car, insert key, turn to start car but the starter doesn't crank. All dash lights are on and I hear a clik when I turn the ignition key. Try it a couple of times and it finally starts. Here are the things I've tested:
1. Battery voltage reads 12.86V. Terminals clean.
2. I disconnected the ignition lead on the starter and connected a voltmeter between the ignition terminal and ground. Turned the key a dozen times and every time it read 12.4V. I'm thinking it may be the starter.
3. Remover starter and took it to a local auto part shop for testing. They say it works fine.
Now I am kinda stuck. I don't think it is the neutral safety switch as I saw 12V each time I turned the ignition. Nothing is completely ruled out yet. I suppose it still could be the safety switch
So I bought a new starter but I'm hesitant to put it in as I'm not sure that is the problem and want to be able to return it if necessary.
Put the old starter back in as I don't completely trust the part store testing. After everything assembled, I turned the ignition and no joy. Tried it a couple of more times and it started.
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I drove to work yesterday, all was fine. Got in the car at lunch time and NO START!! No "parallel" start!!! the car "wakes up", the wheel and tranny unlock, all the dash lights activate but the starter will not crank!!. I did hear 4 or 5 clicks coming from under the car on the first attempt but none after, this morning I heard the same clicks in the first start attempt then nothing after. Here is a scan:
Code:
Thursday,10,July,2014,14:01:01:08208
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 12.12.2.0
Data version: 20140212
[Code] .....
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Random issue that has progressively been getting worse. I'm assuming it's one of those Sonata quirks that we all deal with.
When you turn the key the starter doesn't try to crank the engine. AC stuff all works properly. I just keep turning and eventually it will turn on.
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I have 2005 Santa fe. I replaced the battery about 1000 km (about 600 miles) ago. Interior lights are bright. Now the car won't start, starter doesn't crank at all. At first I thought that it's an immobilizer problem, but not so sure now.
Could you tell me how Hyundai's immobilizer works. Some other cars starts but then turns off if immobilizer is on. Is it the same thing with Santa Fe?
I read from the manual that immobilizer-light should blink if immobilizer is on. I have not watched the dashboard lights so accurately before this. When I turn key to position "on", the immobilizer-light turns on (it doesn't blink). Is it supposed to do so and turn off when the car is running? Or is that a sign that immobilizer is on?
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Went to the mall the other day for a few hours, when I cam back out and when I went it start my car it would not start. Symptoms are weird, I can hear the starter begin to crank then it stops and the dash flickers on and off, interior and exterior lights flicker on and off, starter cranks on and off also. This keeps going until I push the start button again twice to turn the car off.
This keeps happening every time I try to start it. When I popped the hood I noticed the positive battery cover was open.. I closed it and when someone tried to start it for me the cover flew open. It was like 2 seconds after the starter cranked a master circuit breaker would trip, then reset over and over again.
Stranded on a Saturday, I had to join CAA online and request a tow to the dealership. The tow truck guy said I was the 4th push to start hyundai with exactly the same issues he had a call for that day. He went in the car vanished under the dash and got the car started. He would n't tell me what trick he did, but he said drive it to the dealer and leave it there as it was a one shot trick.
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I just purchased an 07 RX 350 with a salvage title. I'm going to fix it up and drive it but I'm trying to figure out why it won't start. It was hit in the front driver side corner, bent the radiator support and crushed the bumper and head light, but that is about the extent of the damage. I tried charging the battery and I get power inside and the other headlight seems very bright, but when I try to turn it over, I can hear what I think is the fuel pump engage but the engine doesn't turn over and there is no noise from the starter. Is there a sensor or something that would be stopping it?
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So for the last few weeks our 2007 3.3L V6 GL is having trouble starting (extended crank). Sometimes it's fine, but other times the engine just turns, so it takes 2 or 3 tries to get it to start.
Initially this seems like a fuel filter issue to me, but these fuel filters are "unserviceable", which I believe means they shouldn't ever have to be replaced (right?). I just had a servicing done at Midas, and they weren't able to tell me what the problem was.
The vehicle has 94k kms (58k miles) on it.
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95 1.9L 5 speed. 142K Runs like a champ but over the last few colder mornings, low 40's high 30's, the starter is slow to get turning. This morning it was really slow, as I held the switch to the crank position for a good 10-15 seconds before it started. To the point that the dash lights dimmed, like a larger load was on the battery. Once it starts its fine. Later in the day it starts just like it should. Just wondering if I may have a starter about to go south on me.
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My car not starting at times. the issue goes like this i'll start it up drive it to where i need to go park it do what i need to do come back out to the car and it wont start there;s no clicking from the starter or anything but all my dash lights and electronics work and after trying to start the car for about 15-20 min it'll start up no problem. i went and had the battery and starter tested and they said it was fine. all i can think of is that its the ignition switch but i don't wanna go out and spend close to 100 bucks to replace this if its not the problem.
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I have a 1990 Honda Accord that I'm having a problem with. When I turn the key to start the car, the car turns over and starts great, but when I let go of the key the car immediately dies. Before I actually push the key into position III to start the car, I've discovered that I can move the key in the range between positions II and III and get the indicator lights on the dash to go on and off, so clearly there is some sort of loose electrical connection. I've discovered that if I start the car and then quickly turn the key back a ways to the point where the connection seems to be good, I can keep the car from dying and then it runs fine. Does the diagnosis of a bad ignition cylinder/switch seem to be accurate for this problem? I just don't want to replace the wrong component(s).
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Our 2002 1.8t wagon has developed an intermittent "no crank" issue. All dash lights operate as normal, but when you turn the key to crank, it doesn't. The dash lights change, as if it were cranking, but what it seems like is that the clutch lockout is not engaged - ie, it acts just like you are not pressing the clutch. But, you are.
I can't seem to find any consistent thing that causes it to start - I've tried quite a few things:
- stomping on the floor by the CCM module.
- jamming down the clutch
- pumping the clutch.
One thing, (i.e., it worked once) was cranking around on the steering wheel. Anyway, after half-a-dozen or a dozen tries, all while whacking aound on various parts of the car, it will eventually start. If you turn off the car, it will start right back up again.
So, this might be able to be described as a "cold" issue, but that's not entirely confirmed too. It's my wife's car, and when she tries to go somewhere with a 2yo and a 5 yo, and the car won't start. The obvious possible things are the clutch lockout relay, the ignition switch, perhaps the CCM - but there's no wetness on the floor or anything. Any easy way to check the clutch lockout? The dash makes it pretty impossible to get under there.
I should add, no MIL, no OBD codes. Don't have a vagcom, just a regular obd2 scanner.
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Having intermittent starting on Elantra 2013 Key start model ? After over-nite car will not crank only dash lights come on and on third try (after overhead lights out) it starts ok ? I measured my battery after 6 hrs at 35 degree F , I see 12.4 vlts and about 0.09a draw in main neg cable (car not running). Brand new battery on 2/17 - had same trouble when original battery was in . dealer says all electrical DTC ok Batt / alternator charging etc.
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The entire dash goes dark (all meters, gauges) somewhat randomly while driving around. The headlights and taillights all stay on when this happens.
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My friend (yes, really, a friend, not me) parked her 2004 Dodge Caravan in the driveway the evening before. The next morning it would not start. No crank, no grind, no click, and no dash lights, nada, nothing. She took it to the shop she's taken the car to for years for repair and maintenance. She trusts them. They've replaced the battery and run a full diagnostic on it, but are unable to solve the problem. The shop is telling them her it could run into the thousands just to figure out the problem. What could they be missing?
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I have 1999 f250 powerstroke, batteries are fully charged but when you put key in ignition and turn you get nothing. No dash lights, no crank, nothing. I cleaned the battery terminals on both batteries, checked all the fuses under the dash and the hood.
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I have a 2000 F250 7.3 manual tranny that was put away for winter storage and now will not start. Need it to get my weekend work done now that the snow is finally gone. Symptoms:
- not cranking
- no dash lights (no oil light, battery light, etc.)
- radio works
- head lights work
- key buzzer works
- can hear clicking when turn key (assume solenoid OK)
Put in two new batteries, fully charger and terminals are clean. Where should I start looking?
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Drove to work had no issues, went to leave & noticed that the dash lights didn't light as normal when I turned the key over, then tried to start but it just cranked, checked the fuses all good under the dash & hood.
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2003 f-350 had no dash lights and no start or crank. Found battery cable junction on left fender broken fixed, replaced starter. Drove it sunday, went about 15 mi and just shut off. Towed home was a battery, replaced battery, now I have lights but turn key and nothing? Was starting fine, all summer seems like a cold weather issue. Any relays I should be looking for? I was going to check power to started but raining too hard this am ...
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The problem started a month or so ago... seemed like a bad battery .. it would crank, then stop (like a dead battery) .. I'd then turn key back and try again and it would start right up... well, I went to Advanced Auto and they said I had a dead cell in my battery.. OK, new battery.. good for about a week.. then same issue.... well, it was off and on ... NOW.. (after having battery, alternator and starter checked) it won't even crank over ... Power comes on, lights work fine etc... every so often it barely tries to push the starter, but not much... it is just simply like a total dead battery.
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I have a 2007 Honda Accord. A few days ago I backed the car up to the front of the house, and in the reflection of the windows and glass I noticed my brake lights were very dim looking. The brake lights on this model/year are LED brake lights that are Honda genuine brake lights. After I noticed, I put the car in park and tapped the brake lights several times and noticed they got very bright, then very dim. Then bright, and dim again and so on and so forth. They also flickered on and off at one point while my foot was planted firmly on the brake pedal. Is this a popular known issue with these brake lights? What can I do to correct this? Took the car back to the dealership and they said there was nothing wrong. (Of course)
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I got into my car and pressed the start button. All the lights on the dash came on but nothing happened. I tried to jump start the battery. Nothing. I got a volt meter from someone at the club and found that the battery was fine. I called the Lexus dealer close to me. They told me it was the in the key. Just hold the key close to the start button and it will start. Did this and nothing. I did not get the indicator light that the car cannot find the key. Every time I press the start button, I hear on click from the engine then nothing. I think maybe the starter. I had the car toed to the Lexus dealer since I have the extended warranty. I changed the battery about two months ago after the car was dead late one Sat. night in a parking garage. But I jump started it and drove it home. Replaced battery and everything was fine until today.
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