Accord :: 2007 SE Front Wheel Stud Replacement
Jan 24, 2012
I was not able to just hammer the old stud out because the space behind hub is too close to allow it to come out so I cut it off with a metal blade and popped each piece out easily. Now the problem is getting a new one in. I rotate the hub looking for spot it will go in easily keeping it horizontal but it seems every way is going to force it in and it will ruin the threads. The end away from the threads has the wider cap and it prevents it from going into the hole straight. It doesn't appear to be easily accessible like the older Honda's. The way they have fabricated parts in this area makes it challenging.
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I need to replace one wheel stud on the passenger side rear. Read an old post that said jack up the car remove wheel spay the stud you need to knock out with WD 40 or PB Blaster. Wait 10 minutes smack it with a small sledge hammer and out it comes. Now I have done that on some older classics but is it that simple on the SC. I have not really jacked it up to give it a good inspection, but I would think you may need to remove the rear rotor and maybe the back cover I saw when I took a quick look under the car.
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2010 Elantra, broken front right wheel stud. I removed the rotor and it looks like there's not enough room to R & R without removing the whole hub assembly due to the dust shield. Is this correct?
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Just had an oil change and during inspection they noticed that the drivers side wheel bearing is starting to go. They brought me back in the shop and I was able to feel the play in the bearing myself. Only a matter of time before it needs to be replaced.
How to replace the front wheel bearing/hub assembly? I don't have a press for the bearing itself so I'm assuming I can just replace the entire hub assembly. I have already replaced the drivers side rear hub assembly about 1.5 years back due to a bad bearing
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The material you rest your arm on when driving is worn out and I am trying to replace it. The armrest slides a little forward with a double plastic catch in normal use but I can't figure out what to use to get the two plastic catches to release and slide off so the new one can go back on. The double plastic catch looks to be about 1" in length at about a 45 degree angle. The two pieces that are the catches look like the ends of a clothespin. So I think something under there needs to depressed so the whole armrest can be slid by what's stopping it. At least thats what I think from looking at the new one and trying to picture in my head how it works. You can't force anything that is plastic because it will just break.
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I just had the front seals replaced in my 93 accord standard shift wagon. After about 4 days the clutch started feeling "soft" and now it's almost down to the floor in order to engage it. I wonder if this has anything to do with the seal replacement?
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So I was replacing a wheel stud and while taking the caliper out, I accidentally unscrewed the brake fluid bolt and it drained a little bit of fluid out. I had to decompress the caliper to put the brake pads in.
Everything was placed back the correct way, now the brake feels too spongy and I have to press the pedal all the way to stop the car. not feeling safe.
I'm not sure what needs to be done here.. did I somehow get air in the system? the brake fluid cap was on the whole time.
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I've been having a lot of noise coming from the front left tire, and I finally had it diagnosed as a bad wheel bearing today.
I noticed that the front wheel bearings are sold individually while the rear wheel bearings are sold as hub assemblies. Is there a certain way that the front wheel bearings have to be removed and pressed on? I'm trying to see if this is a DIY repair.
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I have a 200 f250 v10 srw 4x4.. I've replaced the auto front lockers with warn premium manuals. I cannot get power to the front wheels. The lockers appear fine. I hear the actuator function when I activate 4x4. Whats the possibility of a bad transfer case or front diff and how do i check? I've searched but there seems to be a lot of non-answers.
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I went to a big box store to have new tires put on the rear of my 2002 Nissan Altima. They told me I had a stud broken from the inside of the wheel. The lug nut is still attached, and they can't get the wheel off. Both the stud and the nut turn freely within the socket. Is there any way to get this off without having to pay the $70 a tire place will charge me to fix it? I don't know how long its been like this. I currently have three new tires and one old.
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I have searched and I can only find instructions for the front. The rear is completely different right? I am assuming I need to remove the disk rotor. Can I pound out the broken stud with a sledge hammer and will the new one just fit in from behind or is there more to it?
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I recently bought a 2010 accent 4 dr. and broke a rear wheel stud. The local auto parts store lists front studs and I was told they cannot get rear ones. What is the difference?
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I broke one of my rear studs off today when I was putting my wheel back on. The rest seem okay, but I'm wondering how difficult it is to replace them? Is it as simple as hammering the broken one out and replacing it with a new one? I don't have to take the drum off, right?
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About 2 days ago I started hearing a noise coming from my front right wheel well. It's a light thumping noise that seems to occur when I go over rough parts of the road. What could this be? I was planning a trip for this weekend and i need to drive about 500 miles. Can my car make it?
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What causes a whirring sound in the front of the car when I turn the steering wheel? It happens first thing when I start in the morning but goes away.
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So I drive a 98 Honda, 118k miles, and for last month I've got a really strange noise coming from my front passenger side wheel. It happens when I apply the brakes, usually at a slow speed, slowing down from something like 30mph to a stop. When slowing down, if I have just a bit of pressure on the brake, the noise seems to go along with the speed of the wheels. It also happens when I accelerate from a stop.
I can only describe it as a kind of creaking noise, almost like it is coming from the spring. Sometimes it sounds a little tinny, sometimes not so much. I don't think its actually in the suspension, because it doesn't make noise if I go over speed bumps or press down on the fender. Brake pads have a good amount of pad left on them.
My hunch is that it might have something to do with the fact that I hardly ever drive anymore, somewhere around 10-20 miles a week, back and forth to the subway essentially (fair amount of time driving down banked turns in a parking garage if that adds any info). My dad knows a decent amount about cars, but he isn't sure what is going on, though he thinks it nothing dangerous. Strange wheel noises always make me wary though.
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2006 Sonata with 90k ... When I make right turns the left front wheel is making a rubbing sound with the motion of the wheel. It's not doing it on a straight line, just turning right. I've talked to a couple of my friends and they are telling me it's a wheel bearing. I have a service manual but it's not really going into detail on what I'm in for. I work on motorcycles all the time and my good friend said he has a press if I can bring him the knuckle and the OEM bearing. Looking for a little guidance before I take the wheel off and get started. Are there any special tools involved, etc...should I do the other side while I'm doing this also...
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I m about to replace the front wheel bearing of my 2000 1.8 t I already rent the tool (hub and bearing puller and installer) from german auto parts.com but looking for pics of step by step of the process before starting the job.
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I have a 2000 Passat and brought it to a local shop to have the left front wheel bearing changed. He took the car apart and said he couldnt do it because the anti lock brake wire ran threw the control arm and had no plug on it and was wired right to the dash board. Should i find a different place to take it to or is it a dealer required fix. Can i buy the bearing myself and change it?
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I have decent mechanical ability and recently took off both front wheel knuckles to have the wheel bearings pressed out and new ones back in. I own a 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 with 106,000 miles. I didn’t have much problem getting the wheel hub knuckles off and back on and after they were reinstalled with all bolts tightened, I took the car for a test drive and right away knew something was very wrong. I heard the sound of the drive-shaft CV joint boot twisting and there was a serious lack of power. The engine speed did not correspond with the vehicle speed. Continuing a little ways, small metal noises could be heard from the passenger side wheel. The only indication I had of some problem from that side was during the reinstallation of the drive shaft into the wheel hub. The CV joint dust boot was fully extended and didn’t compress like it should. I put the car back on jacks, took off the wheel and saw that the drive-shaft boot was all twisted. It was obvious that power was going through the drive-shaft past the first CV joint, but no power was making it past the second CV joint to the wheel.
Knowing that something was seriously wrong, I had it towed to Firestone down the road. The mechanic removed the boot and said that the drive-shaft had broke. I also inspected this and saw that the drive-shaft was not connected at the wheel hub. The morning of, the car was working just fine without problems. The tool I used to remove the drive shaft from the wheel hub was a Seven Ton Reversible Puller which I rented from O'Reilly's Auto store. The drive shaft was so stuck on, that I had to use an impact wrench to turn the bolt. Could the highly forced removal of the drive-shaft from the wheel hub shatter the CV joint on the drive-shaft?
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Replacing front wheel bearings on my 99 Passat? There is a gentle 'wahwahwah' grumble at speeds over 40mph. The car has done 130,000 miles and is otherwise in nice condition.
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