Accord :: 2007 - Overheating - Head Gasket?
Jan 9, 2014
I just recently had problems with my V6 accord, is been overheating, I just know that is the head gasket because it has all symptoms, creamy appearance in engine oil cap. vapor and the end pipes after hours of running and multiple misfire, no thermostat and still overheating with no leakages.
I add a block sealer and now the car is working fine (Block Seal, Head Gasket Repair, Bar's Leaks brand).
I would like to replace the head gasket in my V6, but I was told that I need to the surface finish to flat the head and in the lower part too (block), is this correct?
I know that this must be done in the upper part (head) but never heard that this must be done also in the lower part (block).
I have a 2007 accord V6 Engine 4 door sedan SE.
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my friends mechanic is telling him his 2000 outback (2.5 4 cyl) has a blown head gasket. there is NO water leaking/seeping out from anywhere outside the motor AND there is NO water in the crankcase motor oil. the thermostat has been replaced. the cooling fans work. I'm inclined to say it's a plugged radiator. he is considering replacing the head gasket (to the tune of $1500+) on advice of his mechanic. is it possible to have a blown head gasket and not be leaking coolant?
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I have the same problem as the gentleman w/ the '97 4x4 4.6. Intermittent overheating. The water pump and t-stat have both been replaced, as well as the radiator. Some one told me a piece of gasket material from the heater core may be floating around and periodically clogging things. Could this happen? and what's the fix? Also, someone told the guy w/ the 4x4, that he could have blown head gasket, and to perform a sniffer test to find out.#1. What is a sniffer test? #2. If the head gasket is blown, wouldn't there be water in the oil?
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I've been having trouble with the cooling system of my 2005 Kia Sedona (about 90,000 miles) and a couple months back I had the system flushed, coolant added and thermostat replace. Not long after this the overheating started up again. After the first five minutes of driving, the thermostat starts creeping up above the half way mark and within about ten minutes it hits the H. My vents also don't blow heat. After ten minutes the heat SOMETIMES suddenly kicks in after the needle hits H, but it's kind of inconsistent and sometimes I get no heat even after hitting H and sometimes I get a little heat and then it goes away. I only drive it 15 minutes each way so am not sure what would happen if I kept driving.
Anyway, I took it back to the shop and they did a pressure test and said they thought it was a leaky head gasket and that they couldn't do the repair and I should take it to a Kia dealer. I picked it up and on my way home I noticed I was getting heat from the vents immediately and the thermostat stayed at the halfway mark. No overheating. Is it possible they are wrong and the pressure test knocked some air out of the system and that the test actually fixed the problem? Can a pressure test give a false result?
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My 83 year old mom has a 2001 pt cruiser. The gauge is overheating. Some water was leaking from the radiator, not a lot. 3 mechanics have given estimates. The first said it was the water pump. The second said per computer is was not the water pump from his experience it was the head gasket. Third thought it was the radiator cap then said no. A hose was somewhat loose but that did not cause the problem. It heats up going down the hill and not up a hill. Water pump is okay must be the head gasket. Both said it held 15 lbs of pressure. She is too upset to handle this and it is left up to me. Do you think it is the head gasket?
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I just bought a 95' 3.0 V6 4 runner that had overheating issues that caused head gasket to fail. I fixed all the reasons it was blowing the gasket with a new radiator & thermo. Now, temp no longer an issue but the automatic trans is slipping but has been getting alittle better as I drive it more. I noticed the trans fluid was pretty burnned when I replaced radiator..so will replacing the trans fluid & filter fix this issue ? Or could there be another issue ? My check engine light is also on, I will check the codes soon. I am getting horrible gas mileage, but probly from the slipping trans I guess.
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My 2005 Civic is overheating at random times. My mechanic couldn't find the problem so I took it to the dealer and they replaced the thermostat and a fan switch. That didn't work so now they tell me I have a blown head gasket ($1,458)... but there's no water in the oil and no gray smoke. They say the coolant leaks into the block until there's not enough circulating and it overheats. Then, when it cools, the coolant goes back into the reservoir and that's why it never seems to be low on coolant. I've seen other Civic overheating letters (including a 2005 that sounded like my exact problem) but I never saw an update about what fixed the problem.
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I brought my Outback to one mechanic due to overheating and a strange skipping feeling when accelerating. First mechanic said head gaskets needed to be replaced, I wasn't surprised since I have about 142k miles on it and it has been leaking oil, quoted between $1800 and $2000. I took it to another shop, recommended by a friend, and they agreed the gaskets needed to be replaced and there was also a misfire due to the spark plugs. This shop quoted me at $2200-2600 for the head gaskets, spark plugs, all wires and timing belt, all other engine gaskets, thermostat, engine oil and coolant. I still owe a good bit on this car (parents bought on the fly from a less than stellar used lot and now it is my problem), and my thinking is I do not want to bring on more debt by attempting to trade this one in and go for a new car. My question is, do I go with the second mechanic that wants to basically rebuild to top of my engine, or would I be ok limiting the repairs to the head gaskets and spark plugs?
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I have a problem with my Stratus, its the 2005 V6 MotoR 2.7L 24 valves Chrysler LH (USA imported model)
The problem started months ago when a piece that connect several hoses and it have the temperature sensor (coolant air bleeder?) broke, we replaced it for a new one and also changed the thermostat, however the car still overheated (the heat level didnt ascend from half so the fans didn't went on) and the cooling water from the deposit was bubbling, behind the spot where the deposit is, white smoke/steam (?) was coming out and it was making a weird noise also.I changed the water deposit pressure cap, but it keeps doing the same.This happens just 15 min after I turn on the car so the mechanic disconected a piece from the fans, so the fans are always on. Still, after 45 minutes it start again.
The mechanic did a test in the deposit they said that the pressure was very high and it was probably a problem with the head gaskets, it can be that?
Researching for my own, I found that it can also can be a problem with the water pump, and maybe it needs to be replaced
What should I do?Is there any test that I can do to know if the head gasket is the problem or if the water pump isn't working?I don't want to buy the head gasket and realize that the problem was the water pump, or the other way round
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Radiator replaced 2 yrs. ago - required major rust cleanout; reservoir replaced shortly thereafter. Recently engine always hot, antifreeze disappearing, reservoir always looks rusty, nothing much coming out underneath, mechanic pressure tested and couldn't find a leak, told to watch for antifreeze in oil, none apparent. Now suddenly car ran hot, antifreeze came out of reservoir, cap replaced, still couldn't find leak. Today said head gasket blown. Repair head gasket, but can't guarantee wouldn't still have radiator problems. Suggested could try Blue Devil head gasket repair but may not work.
Is it worth :
(a) trying the Blue Devil;
(b) repairing the head gasket?
Or will I still have major repair needs with radiator etc.? I really can't afford even a cheap replacement car.
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So just a few days ago my car started puffing out white smoke, not all the time, but every so often. I noticed last month, that when i am sitting still, my temperature gauge is slowly moving up, but when i would start moving, the gauge would go back down. I know my cooling fan is working, because when i would turn the car off, i can hear it going. My car has been drinking oil and coolant like crazy, it has hard starts sometimes, it never runs boiling hot, but it has gotten right above the middle line. Is this a "bad" head or a "blown" head? Its still driveable, i only need this car to last me through may and i am getting another one in june, so if the engine goes by then, i dont really care, the car has 253k miles on it, its ready to retire anytime now. How to make it last one more month? Does this sound like an engine head problem?
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my truck at 210k miles got a new radiator (seeping at seams), thermostat, water pump (bearings shot, leaking), intake manifold (The crossover was leaking). It now has 227k miles. Oil leak in rear at head gasket by starter (bad head gasket?) It overheated the other day( blowing coolant out the expansion tank needle in the red) Replaced thermostat. Drove around for two full hours, seemed fine, Drove to work today it overheated ( same thing, blowing coolant needle pegged) didn't make it to work. There are no external leaks and its not putting steam or white smoke out the exhaust. I read somewhere that a blown head gasket could make the truck overheat, is that possible? What all could cause this problem?
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My car blew a head gasket in the fall. A friend replaced it and rebuilt the head. The head was taken to a machine shop, was not warped but was planed just a little. The engine was put back together but it continues to gunk up the radiator with yellow gunk. We put block sealer in and it today there is gunk in the over flow bottle again. This is a 1998 Honda Accord with only 103,000 miles on it when the gasket blew.
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I have a 2007 Subaru Forester X Sport Model. I just passed 86,000 miles - much of that open road driving. My head gaskets need to be replaced. This seems somewhat early. I recently switched from using regular motor oil to a synthetic blend that the dealership suggested. Is there any history suggesting that switching lubricants might cause the head gaskets to deteriorate?
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Quick question, my 2007 Santa Fe with 3.3 has developed a small coolant leak. Every so often, I see a few drops on the garage floor and every 6 months or so I need to fill the reservoir with new coolant. So I took it in last Friday at a Hyundai dealership and he said that I need a new head gasket.
So my question is, is that correct? I did a search and most say that if you need a new head gasket, coolant would have leaked into the engine and oil.
When I changed the oil back in June, I don't recall seeing any foam or-or any indication that something is wrong with the oil. Even yesterday, I open up the oil cap and pull the dipstick, every looks normal. I assumed that not all head gasket problems lead to coolant in the oil?
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A 2007 Toyota Camry 2.4 was brought into the shop I work at smoking badly and running terrible. The car had been run hot because the radiator was busted and it blew the head gasket. So I pulled the head and sent if off to the machine shop to have it checked. They said it was badly warped across three cylinder and they resurfaced it.
Now I have everything re assembled, but it simply will not start. All the timing marks on the timing chain line up where they should be. All four coils are firing. Injectors wires pulse noid lights. A few times it has hit and sputtered like it was trying to start but never successfully does.
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2007 Sports Trac .. Does the motor need to be removed to replace head gaskets? 4.0 sohc
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Is this normal or do I have a leak? Noticed this white stuff just like what you would find on the coolant cap, as well as this red stuff too.
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I drove my car after the check engine light came on, stupidly without looking at the temperature gauge. When the car died, I had blown the head gasket, melted the spark plugs and did some other pretty serious damage to the engine. So now I am contemplating replacing the engine instead of buying a new car since I drive very infrequently (I take transit to work and do a lot of business travel by air). The car is 10 years old and only has 72,000 miles on it. The body is in good shape as well.
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I have a 1995 GMC Sonoma pickup truck with supposedly a blown cylinder head gasket. It only has 53K original miles on it. It overheated and I had it towed to a service shop. They put in a new water pump, new coolant, new thermostat, new radiator hose and did an oil & filter change. Well, 100 miles later, I noticed my water coolant was disappearing and the oil pressure was rising. I brought it back to the same shop and after looking at it for five minutes they informed me it was a blown cylinder head gasket. They said they had no way to determine this when they were doing the repairs the first time. So, I ask the following:
1-Was it proper for the shop to do the first repair without checking for a potential head gasket leak?
2-Is there some type of testing that could have been done by the repair shop to check for coolant leaks into the engine oil? 3-Would I have saved money (labor) by having this taken care of at the time of the initial repair?
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My Subaru dealer just told me that my 2004 outback with 88k miles has developed a head gasket leak. I haven't noticed any symptoms, and the leak started sometime between now and my last major service 10k miles ago. How serious is this? They want to charge me for it? If so, when? Is disaster imminent?
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