Accord :: 2005 - OEM Radio Went Out
May 16, 2013
2005 Accord LX 4-door.
The OEM radio went out over a year ago. Finally I took out the radio and sent it to Alpine along with the check in the amount they requested. 3 weeks later I received the check back voided out, a letter stating it was not repairable and the unit arrived shortly afterwards.
Now, I don't know what to do. I don't want to go aftermarket, I want to keep the original face and controls (I've heard the aftermarket face has finish issues).
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It is OK with the lights off and you can see the display, just with no back light when the lights are turned on. The light in the glove box is off too, but I can't find a blown fuse.
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Honda accord( 2005), Engine lights off and on, Radio goes off a few seconds and then reboots by itself , ABS lights off and on, car still runs, power seems to be down slightly when engine lights comes on , stalled twice, but restarted right away. Relay switch replaced, PCM replaced( Diagnosis suggested) , problem continues.What should I check next ?
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The problem started a month or so ago... seemed like a bad battery .. it would crank, then stop (like a dead battery) .. I'd then turn key back and try again and it would start right up... well, I went to Advanced Auto and they said I had a dead cell in my battery.. OK, new battery.. good for about a week.. then same issue.... well, it was off and on ... NOW.. (after having battery, alternator and starter checked) it won't even crank over ... Power comes on, lights work fine etc... every so often it barely tries to push the starter, but not much... it is just simply like a total dead battery.
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my sister has a 2003 accord v6. shes got about 70,000 miles on it. recently the radio display went black and nothing is visible. at the time the display went out, the audio was still working, just no display. if i recall correctly, it also displays the controls for the heat/ac controls also. Unfortunately, after the display blacked out, she had a separate, unrelated dead battery issue. a new battery was installed but now there's nothing because of the built in security feature that kicks in when the battery is disconnected. What the actual part is called that needs to be replaced? from what i read, its not the radio unit itself.
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We have a 2005 Accord. The radio started to malfunction over a year ago. The clock display and everything just stopped working. Disconnecting the negative battery cable would reset it but then it would stop working again a short time after. Sometimes with the car off, you can hear the radio making a sound, like it's trying to eject a CD. Whatever its doing, its draining the battery.
I have to jump the car about once a week. I called the dealer and they said the radios for this year and model are known to be faulty but the fix is expensive and we cannot afford it. I'm pretty handy but not so much with stereo/ electronics. If there is a fix out there, I am willing to try it.
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My 2003 Honda Accord radio will turn on while the car keys are not in the car. It's been happening for months now. If I leave the radio powered on while the car is off it will drain the battery by the time I try to start it again in the morning. If I turn the radio off before the car keys are out I can still see the radio receiving power (the clock on the display lights up).
I had a different issue about a year ago where if the radio was on it would make really loud popping noise then go silent. I could usually get it back by turning it of an on several times. I it to a car audio shop who soldered the connections in the radio and I haven't had the problem since. After this I also had an iPod/iPhone adapter installed. It seems as though the issue with the radio staying on may have started somewhere around that time.
What could be causing this? The guy at the car audio shop says that he thinks the radio is just bad and that Honda had a huge problem with radios in Accords from that year. However I don't want to spend money to put a new radio in only to have the same issue after.
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I bought my 1994 Accord LX new and am happy with it and the ~240K miles it has. Recently a very odd problem has emerged that is annoying...
Problem: The power to the radio cuts off now and then but only for a second. This of course always happens when I'm intensely listening to something like Car Talk. I first noticed it about 3 months ago while driving on the highway... whenever I tapped my brake peddle the radio would cut out. NOW the problem happens whenever it wants to...sometimes I go days without any problem, other times I can get a string of 5-10 failures right in a row and then it's "ok".
Here's the REALLY WEIRD thing... about 1:10 times when this happens BOTH the tachometer AND the speedometer cut out too! They drop to ZERO and then when the radio comes back on they pop back up to their proper readings... note nothing happens to the fuel or engine oil pressure gauges. The dashboard failures are what now have me worried.
What Have I done to address it? Nothing yet, not sure what to do... I cannot intentionally recreate the problem. Last time I took it to the mechanic for something else they looked at this but they couldn't recreate it. I'm afraid if I just ask someone to fix this it'll either cause a lot of hours to be racked up with no result or a lot of guesswork replacements.
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord LX with 96K miles on it. As the weather has gotten colder, my car radio is turning itself on. I walked out last week to a frigid 19 degrees here in KY to the blaring sound of my radio on in the car. There was no one in the car and no key in the ignition, rather the key was in my hand. This has continued to be a problem and occurs sporadically during the day. I have tried turning the radio on/off, keeping the volume down, but regardless, even the clock face panel turns itself on.
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The radio in my 2003 Honda Accord is blank and the mileage part of my warranty is out. The radio works, but the backlight on the lcd screen is out, what can I do to fix it? I don't know what time it is, what station is on.
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I have a 2004 Accord. The radio died a slow death (going on and off at will.) It's finally dead, now. The other strange thing, is the the dome light comes on when I make a left turn. The mechanic I took it too couldn't figure it out, and told me to take it to the dealer.
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Last night I went to turn the fan on for the A/C and noticed the fan doesn't work. Figured it was a fuse possibly as it gave no indication of failure, it was just dead. I don't see a fuse for the blower (if it's there let me know where). I found a couple of threads showing how to do the diagnostics from the radio/control dash.. When I do that the "88" flashes 30+ times not giving any indication of a problem with the AC system.
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Yesterday, I turned on my car and got a message on my dash telling me to check my fuel cap. I did, and it was fine. The message still didn't go away, so when I got to work, I actually unscrewed my cap to check and make sure everything looked normal. At this point, I noticed that the metal flap that usually covers the opening of the gas tank was gone. After showing this to my neighbor, he said that it looks like there's actually an entire component missing from the mouth of the tank, and not just the flap.
I'm guessing that, the last time I got gas, this part of my gas tank went with the nozzle when I took it out. How I didn't notice this is beyond me. Unfortunately, the last time I got gas, I was 100 miles away from home.
My question is, am I in for a nauseatingly expensive repair here? Is it possible to just replace that one part, or am I going to end up replacing a whole lot more? I haven't taken it to a mechanic yet because I'm trying to go in armed with some knowledge about what can be done here.
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Incosistently when accelerating the car jerks (like when wheels spin out in rain). Car works just fine in Idle and has been working great, except for the occassional jerking. I would like to know what I should check and if its dangerous to drive, depending on what the problem might be.
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I have been having a problem with my Honda overheating while the A/C is on, this is the thing though on any day when the weather is 85 or lower I can run my A/c all day no problem. But when it is 90 degrees out side my engine starts to over heat while the A/C is on, how ever as soon as I turn the A/c off temperature needle goes back down even in 90 degree weather.....
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I have a 2005 Honda Accord EX 4-cyl with a very peculiar problem. The car will start and run fine as long as I don't have to shut it off and restart it. However, once I shut it off, it will not start back up unless I give it some gas. Once started, the car will not idle unless the gas is pressed to maintain revs. This happens when the car is shutoff for a just one second, and only when warm. Once the car cools down, it starts and idles fine.
I've tried changing the FI Main Relay and it didn't work. I've also flushed the coolant and changed the radiator cap which seemed to work a little bit. I recently cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve which didn't make any difference. The Fuel Filter has been replaced as well. There are no CELs on and the car has 267,000 miles.
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My 2005 Honda Accord (approx 48,000 miles) has had squeaky/grinding brakes for the last few months. The brakes make a horrible grinding noise for the first few times that I brake each time that I drive it, and then as the car warms up the noise seems to go away. It also shakes a little bit when it's making the grinding noise - not a ton, but enough that I think there must be something wrong. It's worse (during those first few brakings) if I brake hard, but even if I'm really gently applying the brake it makes the same unsettling noise. The squeaking noise doesn't go away ever, but I don't think it's as serious as the grinding noise (but I could be wrong - that's why I'm here!).
I took it to a brake specialty place in November or December and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Other than regular oil changes and tire rotations, the car hasn't had any repairs.
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When it is cold outside and I want to turn my heat on in my car, it takes a loooong while for heat to be produced. I have to have the car moving at a high rate of speed before any heat is made. Even when it is turned all the way to the hottest setting it just spits out cold air. Here is the real problem. If I have the temperature on the heat and the car is idle, the temperature gauge on the instrument panel starts to move around to the RED side(meaning the engine is hot, right?)
As long as the car is moving the gauge will stay in the BLUE(engine is cool, right?) As soon as I stop the car at a red light or sit in traffic(which is usually the case) sure enough the little temperature needle begins to make its way to the RED side. As soon as I move again, it normals again. I have taken this to several mechanics and they have said that they do not know what is wrong and they think that it may just be a faulty temp gauge(this does not seem right) I do not really know if the car is in fact overheating when the gauge starts its travels or if the car is fine and I just have something that is faulty.
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I own a Honda Accrod 2005 V6.
I don't know much about cars, but for the past year my clutch gradually started to just stick to the floor. I'm now at 80,000 miles, the clutch doesn't slip, and it for the most part drives fine with exception to this sticking. Sometimes when this happens, the stick shift stays in gear and I can't get the stick out of gear until the clutch has been lifted up and pushed back in. It is def getting worse. I have brought it to several mechanics.
I have been told by Honda that I need to replace the clutch set (clutch disc, pressure plate, and throw out bearing) and the clutch master and slave cylinder.After another mechanics look over, they also did confirm the same as honda but stated to get a new cut flywheel.
But after several other mechanics look-overs, they told me that the clutch is fine, so they recommended me to get the master and slave cylinders replaced.
So, trying to save money a mechanic told me to take one step at a time and see how it goes. He said he will bleed the slave and master cylinders and see if it is just an air pocket. That didn't work, so I trusted him and he replaced the master cylinder, but the problem still exists. He said the next thing to do is maybe to do a new slave cylinder. I'm now contemplating.
Another mechanic took a look after the work was done and said there is no leaking.
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So I recently changed the air filter in my car. Its hard to get to and replace. Its in a tough spot and I am not sure if I secured the cover fully and completely. I am pretty sure I did. Anyway, a week later I had my check engine light come on, it stayed on for a couple hours then went off. It hasn't come back on since. However, I went to the Autozone, anyway, and had them read the code. They said it was P0171, system too lean bank 1. Is this a serious issue? What are some common ways to fix it, if it is? The car is a 2005, Honda Accord EX. 4 cyclinders. PZEV version. It has 142,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2005 Accord 4 cylinder that has the engine light on. I have had it serviced and the code was P1009. First mechanic added oil and reset the light. It came back on, so the problem wasn't low oil. He then replaced the variable timing solenoid and changed the oil and filter. After a week or so, the light came on with same code. I then took it to a foreign car specialist well-skilled in Honda engines. He did a lot of research and confirmed the first mechanic did everything correctly, but he also changed the small screen in the oil passage (related to the VTC solenoid somehow). Light came back on today. The car only has 44,000 miles and was well-maintained, oil checked and replaced regularly, no sludge or buildup. I will return to the mechanic that did the last repair, but they all seem stumped by the return of the P1009 code. How to resolve it?
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