Accord :: 2004 Honda Will Not Start - No Power To Spark Plugs Or Coils
Jun 21, 2012
My 2004 honda accord will not start, there is no power to the spark plugs or to the coils.
View 3 RepliesMy 2004 honda accord will not start, there is no power to the spark plugs or to the coils.
View 3 RepliesJust replaced the spark plugs and coils yesterday, today it gives P0113 code, Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor - high input Wiring open circuit/short to positive, ground wire defective, IAT sensor, ECM...
View 3 RepliesRecently replaced head on my 95 civic 1.6 Vtec, i had to replace the head gasket a few years ago so i know what to do. My problem now is that it will not start and has no spark to the plugs, i have new plugs, wires, rotor and cap, even tried a new distributor but took it back since it changed nothing. I pulled a plug wire, removed the plug and plugged it into the wire, turned the engine over and no spark.I've checked voltage to the distributor with ignition switch on and as far as i can tell it's getting voltage to the distributor. But when i try to crank it the engine turns over but will not start. It is getting gas, i took the fuel rail off with the injectors and checked for flow. I've taken timing cover off a couple of times to make sure all timing settings were as they should be. I even went ahead installed a new ignition switch which made no difference. Waste of time and money. I've checked several times to make sure all electrical connections are good. I really hope this turns out to be a simple fix but right now i'm at a loss. ECM maybe?
View 4 RepliesMy 2004 honda civic hybrid has 8 spark plugs. The ones in the back of the motor look like they get much hotter and both times I have replaced them, all four in the back were really really loose.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 Honda Fit that seems to misfire when idling both in park and drive. It occurs with the A/C on and off. We have changed the plugs and all coils and it continues. This car has 56,000 miles, the problem started at about 40,000 miles.
View 15 RepliesMy 93 honda accord cranks but wont start it has fuel and fire from the coil but not to the plugs, had new distbuter 1 year ago could my computer be bad...
View 9 Replies04 intrepid cranks but won't start no spark at the plugs 2.7v6 could it be the pcm...
View 2 RepliesAll the oil leak out of engine after a oil change? and i have oil in the spark plug tubes
View 6 Replies1999 Honda Accord, about 200k miles, no start, the problem is spark. What I'm trying to figure out is why I don't have enough spark. I'll upload a video soon, but right now I'll just have to describe it: When cranking I get a few bursts of orange spark but then the spark stops. I can keep cranking for 2, 3, 4 seconds, but I won't get more spark. Tested at the coil, as well. There's a longer burst of initial spark there, but ends the same.
No check engine light (with key on, obvs. can't do it with engine running). Brand new distributor in the car.
Key Immobilizer light is not on. (I've read the immobilizer can get flaky. Appears to be working normally on this car.)
Ignition switch has been tested and is working normally. Battery has been fully charged.
I haven't tested the starter motor, maybe I should look at that? It seems to be getting slower. (Been working on this car awhile; cranking it a lot.) [Ok, just checked an Eric the Car Guy video - "if the engine cranks at all, it isn't the starter." ]
I have a 1993 Honda Accord(4cyl) w/ 257,000 miles and I have a problem. When driving, it will intermittently act as if it is either running out of gas or has no spark and sputter and putt and have no power. This will go on for a bit and at times when the engine is at lower RPM's or load it will run a bit longer; however, in the end it will die and I'll find myself on the side of the road. It will not start again. I can crank it until the battery dies. The really confusing thing is that after it sits for anywhere from 2 hrs to a day, it will start up and run again for a week or two or a couple hundred miles. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, ignitor, distributor cap and rotor(not the whole distributor), coil and wires, checked and replaced all fuses.
View 4 RepliesYesterday I decided to tune up my 2003 5.4 for the 1st time at 82k miles. I replaced all 8 coils with MSD coils & motorcraft plugs. After doing so I went to turn over the ignition & got 1 single click, motor wouldn't even turn over. Battery is 3 months. Truck ran just fine prior to tune up other than the slight misfire I was starting to get.
When I was working on the passenger side I did disconnect the big bracket that had the multiple wire harness on the fire wall underneath the starter solenoid to gain access to the rear plug/coil. Where to start troubleshooting? I checked the fuses under the hood & dash but nothing looked blown.
On a side note I remember when I was putting everything away I tried to lock the truck with the Ford factory transmitter & it wouldn't lock?! I had to open the door & press the power lock button to lock the doors.
I have a very well maintained 2005 honda odyssey with 150,000 miles on it. It typically gets 22 m.p.g. It started using an unusual amount of gas - was getting 12 m.p.g. Took it to the mechanic and turned out the gas pump was cracked. We replaced the gas pump and the gas line, and it was getting 14 m.p.g. Took it to another mechanic, and he said that the spark plugs were the problem as they were not official Honda spark plugs (we replaced them at around 110,000 miles). So we installed the official Honda spark plugs, but still no good. I have visited several mechanics and no one seems to know.
View 7 RepliesI am changing my own spark plugs for the first time. I have a spark plug wrench, dielectric grease, anti-seize compound etc.
I have a Haynes manual for my 2002 Toyota Corolla. The book was written before Irridium plugs were used. Should I tighten the spark plugs to the same torque specifications as regular plugs? The book says 158 inch pounds. How do I know I have tightened them to the right amount?
How do I avoid cross threading the spark plugs? What happens if you cross thread the spark plugs (assuming the car seems to be running fine)? Would I need a new engine or expensive repair when it is time to replace the spark plugs again?
I just put an '86 5.0 engine from an F150 2wd pickup in my '87 truck of the same model. The motor was running when pulled but when I set in the '87, it won't run. I've replaced coil, distributor assembly, plugs, wires, throttle body, checked timing etc. I've got spark through the plugs and fuel in the cylinder but with no luck. Don't know where to turn next.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 Jeep Liberty with about 129K. The car overheated and resulted in changing the head gasket and piston rings. Now the car will not start with all six spark plugs installed. It will only start and run for a short period time with three spark plugs on the driver side installed.
View 19 RepliesI have a 1967 Cutlass. She ran great yesterday. Today she won't start. I have spark coming out of the coil but no spark going to the plugs. Plugs and plug wires test good as well.
View 8 RepliesReplaced plugs and coils after I got a misfire on cylinder 2. (cheap made in china coil packs off of autoparts warehouse)
Also, plugs had 30k miles on them with original packs. Got it again.
Replaced coil on cylinder 2. Got it again.
Bought Denso double platinums. Got it again.
Moved coil packs around. Misfire on cylinder 4.
Checked plugs, good dry non corroded. Its always 2 or 4.. not 1 or 3
Slow drive with less than 30% gas pedal action it runs "ok". If I go uphill or need to step on it, not happening. Bucks like a mule.
I dont think its the fuel injector... Ordered the red audi packs off europaparts. Might need to check connections. what do i do?
I've been also reading that it could be the cam follower. I'm willing to check it and then force the dealer to fix it under the extended warranty, but if its broken I cant put it back in. The dealer is 50 miles from me.
It happened a morning I was out of gas and used .... regular! But did put in super right after that. I had spare regular gas in a container (fresh) for the generator.
Then used fuel additives. I have also been using fuel additives every other fill up just to protect injectors. I know it wont do anything other than that because of direct injection.
So in the middle of a road trip 9 days ago my check engine light came on. I was 2 hours into an 8 hour round trip day trip. I was close to a Toyota dealer so I went there for a diagnosis. They said my MAF bank 1 sensor 1 needed replacing but they didn't have the part so couldn't do the fix but I'd be okay to complete my trip. They collected their $100 and sent me on my way with no warning lights on.
30 minutes later the check engine returns and I'm unable to accelerate. I stop the car for a bit and then am able to continue my trip. I have one other incident where when I was traveling at a low speed, I lost all power. I was able to drive home 4 hours with the check engine light on but no further issues with the exception that I got less than 20 miles a gallon for the trip.
Took my car to a local Toyota dealer. They independently diagnosed that the same sensor needed replacing. They also told me that my spark plugs were shot. According to the service rep, they looked like they were from a car with over 100,000 miles.
Is this possible given the description above from the first time my check engine light came on?
Sstripped threads using an impact to remove the plugs?
View 4 RepliesI got the plugs for my '06. I hope to put them in in a day or 2. My question is: is it necessary to disconnect the 12v battery to do this? I've changed plugs in other cars without doing so.
View 6 RepliesOk , i have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GT V6 GM 3.8, my car didnt have any misfires until after i changed my Lower Intake Manifold Gaskets. After changing the gaskets and putting everything back together. The car ran fine. The next day i took it an hour and 30 min away, while driving there it started misfiring and shaking,rough idle at an hour into the trip. The check engine light went to blinking. The Next day i drove it all the way back home in the condition. Put code scanner to it, and received P0303 "Cylinder 3 Misfire":
So i automatically assumed it was the coil pack because i just installed new wires and plugs a week before changing Lower Intake manifold Gasket. Bought new coil pack. Still getting rough idle and P0303 code. So i decided to take a look at Cylinder 3 Spark plug and it was dry black, carbon fouled:
So went and bought new spark plug, installed it, started car and still rough idle and misfiring. Took the new spark plug out and it had been FOULED also ( DRY BLACK AGAIN). So i was told to switch a coil pack around. I did it and the started car, took away some of the rough idle, car actually wasn't misfring or shaking, would run smooth for about 5-8 seconds then start misfiring (Didn't that until i switch coil packs around).
Next Decided to pull out the rest of the plugs from the back and all of them were WET with GAS!! and 2 Spark plugs are just dry fouled!! (Cylinder 3, Cylinder 1). If I can figure this out i will fully have my car back to running correctly.