Accord :: 2003 / 3.0L Won't Start After Engine Swap
Jan 24, 2012
We put in a used engine (2003 Accord 3.0L V6) from a Junkyard over the weekend, and now it won't start. It'll turn over and fire on a couple cylinders, but not enough to start. Doesn't seem to matter if spray a little starting fluid in the Throttle body while trying to start it. It sounds normal while turning over, put in a new timing belt while it was out, and turned it over by hand 6 times to verify correct install before reassembling.
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I recently left my car parked at a park and ride over the holiday weekend while traveling to visit some family, and when I returned the car would not start as quickly as it had been prior to me leaving it. The car is an '03 with about 165k miles on it, battery replaced about two years ago. I do travel quite often for work, but have never noticed a drop off in crank time until this past weekend.
I did have the serpentine belt changed almost three months ago. (not saying that is in any way related to my current issue, just giving a bit of history on car maintenance). What I should have checked, (starter, battery, etc)? Should I not leave the car idle for more than a couple of days with such high miles on the engine?
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On cold and/or wet days weak engine cranking. After a couple of attempts to start, I only hear a click about the 3rd attempt. If I wait about a minute or two, it still cranks slow but starts. Battery was replaced about 6 months ago. Electrical systems test good indicating no problem with battery, altenator, or starter. I don't seem to have any problem on warm days. My car is 4-cyl with about 85,000 miles and is kept in an unheated garage. Mechanic thinks trouble is likely the starter. Problem is intermittent, I'm not sure replacing the starter will fix the problem.
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We just did an engine and trans axle swap in my daughter's 92 Celica St with a 90 Celica ST, both engines are 4Axx. When we swapped the engine we reinstalled the 92 intake manifold, fuel rails, injectors, sensors and the thermostat housing with sensors. We installed a new timing belt, and new 'O' rings and grommets on the injectors. When we went to start the car it would not start. How do I eliminate air in the EFI system and rule that out as the cause of the engine not starting?
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We just swapped engines on a 2014 Santa Fe Sport but it won't start now. Old engine had 70k miles, new one has 25 k miles. Wondering if the swap could have tripped a fuel shutoff switch or something simple. Its not throwing any codes, but I think it has to run first before it would give a reading. Turns over but wont start. Previous engine ran but had internal lower engine problems and metal in the oil. There is plenty of spark but it doesn't seem to be getting fuel. We hear the fuel pump prime so we know that works.
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I have a 2000 f150 5.4 4x4 auto with a bad engine, and have 1997 f150 4.6 4x4 auto rolled but with a strong engine. What would need to be done to replace the 5.4 with the older 4.6 engine?
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Did the swap and all works good except the boost is often at 3psI then sometimes it works good. Used the 03 harness. So did I need to change a wire or sensor or use 03 pcm?? I was told maf sensor might cause issues but no codes for it.
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Having older 5.4 truck tried to swap in a newer 5.4 2v from a E- series? The vans never got the 3v engine. I have a 2001 5.4 w/150000 miles, and I have a line on a 2008 5.4 2v from a E-350 with only 30,000 miles. Any issues/problems with the swap?
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2001 5.4L 4x4...Engine bought from reputable junkyard with 140K has new manifold studs, motorcraft spark plugs, and 8 coils (bought on Amazon).
No check engine codes...checked for vacuum leaks...And has rough idle.
Is there a reason it might have rough idle aside from blown motor? The mechanic was going to take it to get computer reflashed but not trying to throw money down the drain...
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I have acquired a 4.6l DOHC out of a mid year 85 mustang cobra, would like to install in my 2000 F150 that has a 4.6l sohc, what is available for ECM with the swap?
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I been having occasional problems starting my 1988 honda accord. It also sometimes dies when im stopped for too long. The problem has gotten worse more recently. The engine will rev and struggle to start. After it dies out i often have to let it sit a while before im able to start it. As i am trying to start it im smelling gasoline.
I thought for sure it was the fuel pump so i had it replaced and is still giving me problems. Today i had to give up and come back to it later. It is fuel injected... What the problem might be?
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I just replaced the auto transmission in my 1988 accord and upon first restart the car will not idle. I has been sitting for about 6 months while I replaced the trans, but was a daily driver prior to that. The car initially starts fine when cold, but shortly after startup starts running very rich and dies. Restart after this requires the throttle pedal to be held down. Engine will start after some cranking - but will not run under 2500 RPM and is obviously very rich. I've rebuild carbs before so I'm thinking about picking up a rebuild kit - just wondering if there could be other parts of the fuel control system that might be at fault.
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My car shakes when I start the engine, and continues to shake, it doesn't matter what gear I'm in. It also smells like gas when I get out of the car. Since my check engine light is blinking, and with all I've heard on the show, next step is to to take it to a mechanic. My question is, would it be okay to drive it 5 miles to a mechanic, or should I have it towed? Someone said it may be a misfire, and to change the spark plugs?
2000 Honda Accord Ex 6 Cylinder 163K on the mileage....
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I have a belt in my engine that squealed every time I started the engine cold or got water on the engine (rain etc).
The belt itself has no cracks or fraying. I loosened the adjustment bolt on the alternator which raised the alternate up slightly and tightened the belt.
The squeal is completely gone even when starting from cold now.
Should I just conclude the belt was loose, or is there a precaution I should take?
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I have a 2008 Honda Accord. When I start the engine I hear a muted clacking sound not a whoosh like air and then it disappears after a few moments. This does not happen after I drive the car to the and park it for less than a 3 hours but if parked longer it occurs again.
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1999 Accord Coupe. Stuck in park, starter motor turns engine over fine but ignition does not fire. Problem was intermittent twice last week.
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I have a 1998 Honda Accord that intermittently won't start. When the issue occurs the dashboard lights, radio, etc all work just fine, but the engine won't turn over (no clicking, no noise at all). It's standard vehicle, but I definitely have my foot all the way to the floor to depress the clutch safety switch. The issue only seems to occur when the car is warm (i.e. it never happens on the first start in the morning), although it's been known to happen even after 2hrs of cooling down. The issue used to only occur 1 out of 100 starts, but now it's getting closer to 1 out of 4 times. I'm able to get the car going by jump starting it, but that's getting old.
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Own a 2000 Accord EX; 100k...runs great and smooth 99.9% of the time. However every once in a while, like maybe once a month or so it starts, but sounds and feels like its firing on 3 cyl...will die if I try to put in gear, or take foot off accelerator. If I shut it off and try starting it again same thing will happen. However if I let it sit awhile (sometimes one hour sometimes next day) it will start smoothly and run beautifully. Problem seems unrelated to temperature, weather, time since last use, stage of the moon, engine temp, parked on hill or flat road. or who tries to start the car...
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The problem started a month or so ago... seemed like a bad battery .. it would crank, then stop (like a dead battery) .. I'd then turn key back and try again and it would start right up... well, I went to Advanced Auto and they said I had a dead cell in my battery.. OK, new battery.. good for about a week.. then same issue.... well, it was off and on ... NOW.. (after having battery, alternator and starter checked) it won't even crank over ... Power comes on, lights work fine etc... every so often it barely tries to push the starter, but not much... it is just simply like a total dead battery.
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My 2003 Honda Accord with 101,000 miles started hesitating on acceleration, and a day later my check engine light came on. I went to the auto parts store to borrow one of their diagnostic computers. The code I received for the engine light was from my O2 sensor. What can cause the hesitation and the O2 sensor to read faulty? I have had several O2 sensors go out on other vehicles, but that hasn’t caused any other symptoms before. I would like it to be that simple, seeing as how easy they are to replace, but I don’t want to get my hopes up. Anyway, the car is parked now and I am taking the bus because I can’t afford to take it to a mechanic. I don’t want to waste any money by starting to replace things without having better direction.
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My honda accord 2003, 4 cylinder (101000 miles) has constantly check engine light on, also transmission has been rough (it started right after a trip to mountains). The transmission sometimes becomes smooth as normal but still check engine light on and most of times transmission is jerky. I took it to mechanic, he did testing and there was no code.
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