Accord :: 2002 - Thumping Brake Pedal For A Bit / Warped Rotor
Sep 7, 2011
I have had a thumping brake pedal for a bit and knew that I had a warped rotor. I suspected the right rear by the wear pattern of the disk. I purchased the parts and started the job to see...what the heck is the cable and assembly on the outside of the caliper? After FINALLY getting the bolts off...not a great placement of this extra assembly...I pretty much had to beat the caliper off the rotor. I was afraid of this...I will have to replace the caliper as it appears to be seized.
Now... what I would assume is the parking brake assembly? I have read some great info on the normal replacement of the pads/rotor...but what do I need to know about the cable and arms? Do I need to release the tension somehow? Does it need to be rigged? Is there a best way to do this?
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So for the past few weeks, i was getting this weird vibration coming from my brake pedal.. When I am about at 40 mph driving and braking or even when I am slowing down with out braking it vibrates.. I checked my wheel bearings.. I don't think that it.. since my steering wheel is not shaking when i brake, i think my rear rotors would be warped..
Also my idle is weird on my car.. I switched my coils and plugs.. it jumps.. really slightly and there is a big one.. when I opened my hood up there is this weird noise like a rattling noise and that is when the idle jumps up and down.. something like this [URL]....
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My front left rotor is warped and makes that annoying chirp chirp chirp sound as I'm driving. I hear it while the truck is driving and also when braking. I jacked up the front left tire under the control arm, removed the tire and caliper/pads, tightened the rotor against the hub with the lug nuts. Watching the bottom of the caliper mount as a reference point, I can clearly see the distance changing between the rotor and the mount as I rotate the rotor.
And I feel the resistance as the rotor gets closer in that spot. Is this simply a warped rotor? Or is something else causing this? I replaced the pads, rotors, front brake hoses, front left caliper and , still the chirp remains. The pins are greased and slide nicely. I also bled quite a bit of fluid out, since it was a bit dark compared to the new fluid. I checked for play in the tire, thinking maybe a bad wheel bearing, but found none. No other noises or symptoms in the front end.
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08 XLT 4x4 Had a rotor slid freeze up last fall and eat a rotor. 39000 miles. Took apart and cleaned up and lubed, new pads and rotors both fronts. Now have pulsating pedal at 48000. Do the rear might need attention now or still the front? I never use the E brake.
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recently I replaced the front rotors and pads on my 02 Saturn SL2. I did this because there was a grinding sound coming from the front left wheel well and I had noticed a band around the rotor that looked gouged. All in all, about 30 minutes of work, following the Hanes manual. In the course of disassembling the front left caliper, I realized that the cause of the gouge in the rotor was from one of the tensioning clips on the caliper bracket. One of the flaps on the clip had bent back and was causing both the grinding sound and the gouge in the rotor. So naturally, I replaced all the tensioning clips as well. After putting everything back together, I took the car on a quick test drive around the block. The noise, while lessened, was still present. Furthermore, after I got to work this morning, I noticed that that there is the start of the same wear pattern on my brand new rotor.
What could be causing this problem to reassert itself?
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Lately my cars been shaking pretty bad and making a thumping noise when i have the brake pedal about halfway down. Doesn't seem good. What it could be? also it makes a pretty loud whining type noise when the cars on think its a pulley or water pump but not too sure.
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I had the master cylinder change on a 92 honda accord EX the calibers change and, the master cylinder I have been told does not have any way to adjust the stem on the master cylinder so the brake man ajusted the brake pedal but the brakes are still freezing up. It is an automatic
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I have a 95 Accord EX, 4 cylinder with ABS. The brake pedal goes to the floor about once a month, all times of year (I'm in Minnesota). I had the brakes bled last summer, but that didn't work. The ABS light has been on for probably 10 years. When I talked to my mechanic he said the ABS system, even though it's not working, could be a cause of the problem because fluid is still traveling through that system. He said most likely a master cylinder, but no guarantees. He said it could also be one of the brake lines. About 120k miles on it. What are the odds that it's the master cylinder?
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I have an '09 Avalon with 34K miles. On braking we get a shudder. It's especially noticeable on gentle braking. I am pretty sure this is due to the brake rotors being warped or whatever the correct term is. Are these covered under warranty? I'm a skeptic and I feel sure the dealer will try and blame the tires but they are wearing evenly and are rotated every 5K. The ride is smooth when not braking so tire balance should not be an issue.
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Looking for really good ceramic brake pads and rotors for my 2013 Honda Accord LX? I use my car for everyday driving in the city and highway and was hoping to find something that works well in all weather conditions including snow.
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I have a problem about which the mechanics I have asked are baffled: In cool, cloudy or sunny weather, my brakes and break-pedal pressure are fine (the mechanics have said I have good fluid, brakes, etc.--they can find nothing wrong--and, of course, it never has a problem when they test-drive my car). However, when the weather warms up and it's a bright, sunny day, my brake pedal loses pressure and slowly sinks to the floor--a dangerous thing at intersections. There's slight pressure if I pump the pedal constantly while at a light; but, without pumping, the pedal immediately sinks to the floor.
This is a real problem, because this problem always occurs right when mechanics are not near or not open for business--and none I've talked to have ever heard of such a problem. The bright, hot sun's affect seems to be key, because if it's 80 degrees outside and cloudy, I don't have the issue--but, then again, I don't usually run the air conditioner if it's cloudy. As such, I'm not positive; but, this may be tied to when I turn on the air conditioner--as though the two share the same vacuum system.
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I have a 2002 Accord with about 130k miles on it and the brakes don't have nearly the power that they used to. The pads and rotors are due for replacement but even then, the system is pretty weak. Would replacing the master cylinder? What about simply replacing the brake fluid (I doubt it has ever been changed)? And/or the calipers? The car is in great condition and I really like it so I don't mind investing some time and money to get more years out of it.
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My 2002 camry has a vibration feel while pumping the brake pedal (no other vibration from car). It happens, when you drive slow or fast and stop. Happens when the engine is not even turned on and the brake pedal is just pumped. Its hard to describe the feeling other than zig zaggy on the way down, pulsating, etc. It starts to feel this way on the way down and halfway through the press ends smooth.
I took it to a auto mechanic two days ago and he stated the car had zero brake issues. Rotors and pads are in good condition (sometimes these are the cause for the vibration, but only when driving and stopping), fluid level are good etc. I asked him to test it out and pump it slowly or adruptly, at standstill or while driving, but he still couldn't understand what i was talking about. Researched on the net and found out the likely problem has to do with either Brake booster pump or Master brake cylinder. From a tsb (like a recall note from toyota, see below) , it seemed certain it had to do with the master brake cylinder. I took it to Toyota today and they stated it had to do with the brake booster pump instead , its not worth fixing bc it cost an arm and a leg. Just now i stopped by Active Green + Ross at 110 Gerrard and he stated that its most likely the Master Brake Cylinder, since if you were to pump on the brake while the car was off, turn on the ignition, and if the pedal goes down smoothly , the booster pump should be ok. (it does go down smoothly)
He also stated that for a refurb master cylinder (non toyota) + labour it would come out to 250 bucks. The dealership was going to charge me 1500 for the booster pump and labour. They also advised not to used non toyota parts.
This issue does not hamper safety issues with the car. Its more of an annoyance that i'd like to take care of. I also don't want to pay 1500 for a car with 150k on it.
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In the first instance of this problem, my brake pedal was stuck to the floor. By pumping it a few times, it gradually released and rose to the proper level. Brakes then seemed to work fine for a couple of weeks, until I reversed out of a parking space, but could not brake the car when I shifted into drive. I pushed the brake pedal to the floor, but could not stop until I ran over two large boulders that, stopped the car short of a big tree.
My mechanic doesn't know exactly what went wrong, but is replacing the brake cylinder. I fervently hope that fixes the problem! What could it be?
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Working on a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. 4 disc, no ABS. Problem is the brake pedal goes to the floor without much force. I bled all 4 lines, but no improvement. Rigid lines from the brake master cylinder to the rear wheels were very corroded, so I ran new lines. The old ones pretty much fell apart when I took them off the car. I also replaced the brake master cylinder. I tried to bleed the brakes again, but couldn't get much (if any) fluid pressure at any of the wheels. Yes, I found a couple leaks at the junction points for the rigid lines, but I re-flanged those connections and got rid of all the leaks. Still no real pressure when trying to bleed.
So, I tried a second, then a third master cylinder with a new attached resevoir. No improvement. I bench bled the snot out of this third master cylinder because the symptoms clearly suggest air was likely trapped somewhere in the system. I used a wood dowel to fully actuate the cylinder many times after all the air had been released while I had short clear hoses running from the master cylinder outlets into a little plastic cup filled with clean brake fluid. I wanted to make sure there was no way air could be in the MC, and no air drawn back in when I released the wood dowel.
Next, I quickly capped off the MC outlets and connected a hose to each brake line individually where they normally screw into the MC. I then let clear fluid drain through each line until it was spilling out clear of each caliper bleeder with no air bubbles. So, no lines are kinked, clogged, or contain air.
I took every precaution to keep air out of the system, yet when I push the brake pedal, there is still virtually no real pressure generated by the MC. The power booster rod is shoving the master cylinder in as it should. I don't think there's any problem with the power booster.
I've used gravity bleeding, manual "push & hold the brake pedal" bleeding, vacuum bleeding, and I'm certain there is no air in the lines or calipers. Still no significant pressure coming from the MC when I push & hold the brake pedal to the floor. It takes maybe 20-25 pounds of foot pressure, but always goes completely to the floor with all the bleeders closed. If the pedal is held to the floor, fluid slowly seeps from the bleeders. I'm used to it spraying when doing this on a healthy brake system.
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I have a santa fe 2002 diesel the abs lights stop on all the time the brake pedal has a bad judder on it when braking. I have taken the fuses out and it will still judder. The only thing that is when i disconnect each sensor the red brake light stops on but not with the osf front sensor. All the rings look ok but when i had a problem with 1 of them the abs light would go out then return on...
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I have a 2002 F250 4 whl drive 7,3 L Diesel with auto tranny. It refuses to run unless the foot is on the brake pedal. I have replaced the brake stop switch and A L L the fuel filters. It will start at times and idle near perfect and at other times it will start and then stop. When it does idle there is not a skip but when you put it in drive it shuts down unless you keep your foot on the brake. I think I only have 2 hairs on me head I have not pulled out
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I took my 2003 Honda Accord that has 200,000 mostly highway miles to my machanic because I heard a thumping sound in the wheel (so I thought) He told me it was a broken engine mount (front) and replaced it. When I picked up my car it vibrated all over the place. I was scared to drive it. The steering wheel was bounding around. Anyway I took it back right away and was told that since they replace the front engine mount the others needed to be replaced as well and that was the cause of the vibration. They replaced the other two engine mounts and the car is vibrating even more. So the decided it was the transmission mounts. So...they replaced the transmission mounts and still my car is vibrating all over the place.
Now the mechanic says it's the engine and said that it was at least a 5 hour job to do but could not give me any promises that that was going to fix my car. So, I took it to the honda dealer to have their tech look into it. The tech thought the vibration was caused by a broken air tube, replaced it (at no cost) but the car still vibrating..
Honda checked the replaced engine and transmission mounts, said they were okay but noticed that the original bolt on the front mount was replaced by a oversized bolt and they think that is the problem since the vibration did not occur until the mechanic replaced the front motor mount. Honda suggested I take the car back to the mechanic since it would cost me much money for them to fix it. I had Honda explain the issue to the mechanic about the bolt and they seem to disagree. I'm still waiting to hear from the mechanic as to when to bring my car back so that they can finally fix it. i think the made more of a problem in the first place.
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I'm in the process of changing pads and rotors on all 4 wheels. I've done all brakes and rotors, except that I'm stuck on the driver rear. The driver rear rotor won't come off!
Here's what I've done so far: I've used the metric jack bolts (I didn't buy the long ones) and that freed up some rust, with pb blaster. Now, the rotor comes out a bit, and I'm able to move it around, and the rotor comes forward a little bit towards me. It's so wobblily that it seems like it is about to come out. The rotor isn't solid stuck on, like most threads I've read.
While hammering, I think a piece of hardware of the parking brake fell down on the ground. Do u think that the parking brake is not allowing the rotor to come off? If so, I was reading online that there is some way to release the parking brake via a hole though the rotor, but I'm really not familiar with this. I'm not even sure if it's the parking brake that's not allowing the rotor to come off.
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Recently the brake pedal on my 2002 Prius has been a little harder to push for the first mm of travel it almost "sticks" requiring slightly more effort once it moves past that point it is normal no fading or extra effort required this problem has now progressed to the point where the pedal is kind of crunchy for the first 5mm of travel and occasionally will not return right away causing the brakes to drag a little but again pressure required to stop is exactly the same no fading etc
I am thinking since I live on 2 miles of dusty washboard dirt road and some grit has worked its way into the bushing .
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I have a 2002 Honda Civic EX 1.7L. Recently the brake pedal would sometimes go to the floor when I'd apply the brakes. The car would still stop, but not as quickly as normally. If I apply the brake and it goes to the floor I would release the pedal and reapply the brake and it would stop at it's normal position and the brakes felt firm and the car would stop fine. I was told my problem was the master cylinder so I bought one on Sunday and replaced it. I bled the lines and it seemed like all the air was out. The brakes worked great and the pedal stopped in the same place and was firm.
Now today on my way to work the pedal went down a little farther than normal during one stop. On the way home it stopped in different places. The brakes would always grab and the pedal felt fairly firm wherever it stopped. I drove it this evening again and the pedal went to the floor like with the old master cylinder. One pump and they grabbed in the normal spot. What is going on? Did I not bleed the lines well enough? Is the new master cylinder just junk? I saw in the manual that air can get trapped in the ABS sensor, but an air bubble problem should just make the pedal squishy, not change where it grabs, right? I'm stumped and I really don't want to take my car in if I can fix it.
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