Accord :: 2001 Transmission - Car Sometimes Surges When Changing Into 3rd Gear
Jan 14, 2015
I am driving an 01 Accord Coupe as a trial from a family member before I decide to purchase. I am hoping to upgrade from my 91 Celica that has some strange transmission issues. Having said that, I am worried about the Accord's tranny, and I guess I am being paranoid!
When changing into 3rd gear, the car sometimes "surges" into it. It usually happens when I first start driving it, perhaps the second or third time it changes into the gear after being started up and driven. It's not for very long, perhaps half a second, and it's not a lunging type of surge, but I guess I am a bit gunshy right now. Don't want to trade one set of tranny issues for another.
It has 130,000 miles on it. My family member bought it off of someone else. They have owned it for about 2 years, but didn't drive it very often at all. I need it for a daily commuter (2+ hours a day.) I am not sure if the transmission has ever been serviced (fluid changed, etc.)
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2001 Accord, 6cyl. 3.0, automatic transmission. The last few weeks its been shifting a little rougher, but nothing thatd alarm me. Then last night, the check engine light popped on and the little green light around the D4 on the dash began blinking. I turned it off for a minute, restarted it and blinking light was gone but not check engine. Sat there and shifted through all the gears and the only thing I don't like is when i go from D3 to 2 and back. It shifts real hard there. Not as hard shifting back from 2 to D3 though. All other gears shift fine.
Also, I checked the fluid on the dipstick and it was right under the lower dot. Its my wifes old car and she "doesn't remember" if shes ever had the tranny flushed and a buddy said if it hasn't been flushed regularly by this point(125K miles), not a good idea to flush, just drain and refill. (Green blinking light around gear indicator) and what was the fix? Is it difficult to drain/refill the tranny and can I refill this model through the dipstick or do I have to get underneath? Do I REALLY have to use Honda ATF only or can I use whatever??
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I changed the transmission (automatic) in a 94 Honda accord EX 4 cylinder and now it delays when starting. What I mean is if you stick the key in and try to start it normally it will just keep turning over. However if you wait about three seconds with the key in the ON posssition it will start right up like normal. Otherwise it drivers normally. I noticed the fuel pump isn't kicking on right away to prime the rail, but I didn't touch the fuel system when I changed the tranny out.
Transmission has the proper amount of OEM Honda fluid. CEL is on but I don't know how to check the codes on this OBD1 vehicle.
I am suspecting either a weak fuel pump or I missed something during installation. I double checked to make sure everything was plugged in properly on tranny.
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On my 2003 Chevy Impala with 127,000 miles the car jerks like someone has hit you in the rear end, it usually happens from first to second and is becoming more frequent. A recent transmission service had no effect
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4400 miles on it. Over last few days the transmission started to slip. First gear engages fine, but the change to 2nd involves a rev....(with no acceleration) till it finally grabs.
Reverse into my garage up my slight incline of a drive does same. Slip rev....slip rev... No gear noises.
Tried to check fluid level...(that's what it sounded like to me) but sealed system.
Taking it in for warranty check/work.
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I've hyundai elantra 2013 while changing gear by car jerk and sometime it doesn't jerk. What is issue causing car to jerk when changing gear. It happens not every time, sometime it don't jerk while changing gear.
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My transmission has started slipping as car shifts into 2 and sometimes 3rd gear. It races and is not engaged, so there is no power for the few seconds (sometimes longer) when this happens. Car has about 216,000 miles - and it's time to also replace tires. As I look at the estimated bill, I'm having to decide if it's still a good investment to do the work on the car. I love the car and there is no rust or other problems.
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I have a 09 Honda Accord manual transmission V6 with 59K miles. Recently, it seems to stick a little going into 3rd gear - only third. Called our local dealer's service department who said I should have done a drain and fill on my transmission fluid at 30K miles. I have driven manual transmissions for 30+ years and have never heard of this - but this is my first Honda. The owners manual is not very specific about this maintenance recommendation. Did I create unnecessary wear and tear to my transmission or is my dealers service tech just working to humble me?
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My 2006 Elantra (54,000 miles) shifts really, really hard when it's not cold and passes through the 35 mph range -- hard enough to make you glad you've got your seatbelt on. I've taken it to my regular mechanic and now it's in an automatic transmission shop.
My mechanic changed the fluid (twice), and took it through a "learning sequence". The fluid didn't look that bad and he reported that there were no codes to work with. He thinks I'm going to have to get a new transmission.
The AT shop has confirmed that there are no codes to work with and that the problem begins at 143 degrees. They tell me that the transmission is shifting into a higher gear without releasing the lower gear. They tried replacing a couple of solenoids, but that yielded no change in behavior. Now, they're telling me they "think" I need a new computer. I'm just afraid the trial & error approach is going to cost me a boat-load.
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An independent mechanic rebuilt my 2001 Honda Accord transmission.
The first problem I had with my car shifting was when I tried to pass a car. The car kind of bucked and would not accelerate enough to pass cars. The fix engine light was on. I took it to a small town mechanic who did some diagnostics and said it was not the transmission. He reset the engine light but it came back on as I was driving home ( 150 miles away). On my next trip downstate ( 150 miles) I had my oil changed. As soon as I left the oil change place my car would not shift from 1st to 2nd gear consistently, and once it dropped into neutral then kind of slammed into second. The D4 light was blinking. This happened inconsistently, but I did not drive it more than 10 miles.
Being 150 miles away from home, I didn't know where to take my car. The local KIA dealership said they could get the diagnostic codes for me but could not fix it. After diagnostics they said the codes indicated some "sort of trouble with the transmission" but couldn't tell what. I called the closest Honda dealership and an independent transmission specialist. I gave both places the codes. Both said it sounded like a transmission problem but couldn't say for sure until they saw the car.
The transmission guy warned me that when people bring their vehicles in for a second opinion, the dealership always recommended very expensive full repairs that are not needed. He told me I should not drive the car, even though it was drivable, (since the problem was intermittent), so I had it towed in to him in the closest big city. He said he would check the car over ( I have a gas leak, some inconsistent electrical problems and my oil light had come on before I had the oil changed) to see if it was worth the price of a repair and call me. I made the 150 mile trip home and waited four days before I called him, since I hadn't heard him. When I called him, he said ,"the transmission rebuild was almost done". He said second gear was "burned out". I was ticked because he did not call me or give me any details ahead of time or put anything specific in writing for me. He said he could "take it back out" if that is what I wanted. I didn't know what to do, so I told him not to take "it" back out.
I picked up the car on Saturday and drove it 15 miles. It worked fine. The next day I drove the car a block and it did EXACTLY the same thing it did before I had it "repaired". The car would not shift from 1st into second.. then it kind of dropped into neutral then clunked into second gear and the D4 light was blinking. When I called him he said he would have to look at it to see what the problem could be. (electrical or something else).
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Trying to find out what's wrong with my 89 Sentra 4 spd. Over the last 3-4 months when it's first started it runs a little rough and has a rich smell to it. When put into gear especially at low speeds it starts to surge like its running out of gas. Even when warm - at any speed, when you very slightly decrease acceleration it surges. But when you just accelerate it stops. And when coming to a stop it stalls but will start right up again.
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My 2008 Santa Fe 3.3 with 18,000 miles, developed an annoying surging when first put into gear after sitting overnight. I must keep my foot firmly on the brake as I back out of the driveway. If I press gently on the brake I can feel the car jerk or surge and show higher than normal rpms on tach. The jerkiness will go away entirely after a few miles and the rpms will return to normal at idle at a stoplight or stop sign. Is this something that would be covered under my factory warranty? Car was purchased Jan. 2009. I also notice that when the car starts in the morning it goes to a very fast idle. Is that normal? I would think that with the way the oil filter is mounted that the engine might have to wait for oil to return to the filter before it can get to the engine. What could be the cause of my problem? And is it likely my warranty should cover the repairs?
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So this doesn't begin until I put it into a forward gear, but after about 30 sec of smooth running, I will get a sudden momentary loss of power, then a surge, which repeats and intensifies as the van lurches forward until the engine finally stalls. Throwing it into N in the middle doesn't work. Babying the gas had no effect. It happened both at higher(2.5-3K) revs and at lower (.8-1.5k).
After killing the battery starting and restarting it just to keep it moving, I had it jumped, at which point I sat with it in P for 20 min to charge the battery and in all that time, it ran fine. I'd love to hear some possible diagnoses. Don't know if I should have it towed from where it's sitting, or try to drive it to the shop, or if it's something I can repair myself (think 1-star difficulty).
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My surging/running down issue has returned on my '86 2.3l Ranger. I thought it was electrical, when things improved with the new ignition switch, but lately it's hard to get out of 2nd gear before the engine surges then starts to lose power. a poke of the gas pedal starts the who cycle over again. I pulled codes but it's hard to tell what the reader is saying either 33 and 34 or 334. The good thing is all the codes point to the EGR system. Looking for a diagnosis tree to determine if the valve is bad or the sensor is shot? They are both not cheap so I don't want to just throw parts at the problem.
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I have an 01 and 02 santa f. I took the v6 out of 01-and put in the 02.put new gaskets on engine new timing belt etc. Got engine in and runs like a champ. But the tranny which looks new I assume its been replaced. It starts out in 2 or 3 all the time want shift into od. Reverse works. So I found one plug dangling I couldn't figure out where it went then i found it. It plugged up on top of tranny. Well now it starts out in first and shifts through all the gears. Drove it down the rd shifted fine. Turned around and put in reverse then when i went to drive it jerked real hard. Shifted out fine so I went to floor it to make it kick down and it jerked again. This time it was hung in 3 or drive cause when I pulled into my driveway it was in high gear and u can put it in manual mode and the light only goes to second and d when it acts up like this. So i killed the car started back up and know it will go into first in manual mode and shift out and do fine?
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent GL the reverse gear went out but all the forward gears work. Ive been told that I need a new transmission. I found a great deal on a transmission from a 2007 Hyundai Accent. Will this transmission work in my car?
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I am having a few issues with my 2001 accent. I bought this car for around 500 bucks after my friend hit 3 deer with it. At 101,000 miles the transmission went on it and he had it replace with a new one. At about 113k he hit his third deer and parked it. I bought it off him a few years later and its been running great. It died on me one time and it was the crank position sensor. Now I have about a 156k mile on it and it will not go into overdrive.
I have gotten mis fire codes, I know it needs new O2 sensors, and also P0733 Gear 3 Incorrect ratio. The button on the shifter does nothing, If i press it on or off the light does not come on on my dash. I noticed it was not going into OD this last winter if i dropped it into low and shifted to drive it would no longer go into overdrive until i placed it in park and then drive again. Ive been searching everywhere for an answer I was reading one post that it could be the TPS sensor causing issues but i haven't had time to check the voltage.
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I just installed a rebuild 4R100 transmission in my 2001 4x4 Excursion with the 7.3. I'm having trouble getting it to engage into gear. As I shift it into gear it sounds as if it wants to engage but doesn't. I have checked the fluid level and it at a normal range. I'm wondering if I didn't put enough fluid in the converter would that cause the problem.
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How difficult is changing the whole speedometer cluster on a 94 honda accord? Mine has been messed up since i got the car. It stays on 20mph when I turn on the car.
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Have 1995 Honda Accord with apx. 231,000 miles and needs all new break lines under the car. Honda Dealer states 12 hours of labor at $100 per hour. Should I go elsewhere or sell the car for $600 to the parts guy at the dealership offering to buy it since I wont pay the cost at this point to fix the car? Gas lines are all fine underneath by the way - I asked them to look since they could go next I would assume.
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Had to replace battery, normally would push the sound button till it beeps---then hit #4 preset button to set hour,etc. Well, my sound button does not beep and my clock display just keeps flashing. This problem is on a 2006 Honda accord V6.
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