Accord :: 2001 Automatic Transmission - Green Blinking Light Around Gear Indicator
Sep 17, 2011
2001 Accord, 6cyl. 3.0, automatic transmission. The last few weeks its been shifting a little rougher, but nothing thatd alarm me. Then last night, the check engine light popped on and the little green light around the D4 on the dash began blinking. I turned it off for a minute, restarted it and blinking light was gone but not check engine. Sat there and shifted through all the gears and the only thing I don't like is when i go from D3 to 2 and back. It shifts real hard there. Not as hard shifting back from 2 to D3 though. All other gears shift fine.
Also, I checked the fluid on the dipstick and it was right under the lower dot. Its my wifes old car and she "doesn't remember" if shes ever had the tranny flushed and a buddy said if it hasn't been flushed regularly by this point(125K miles), not a good idea to flush, just drain and refill. (Green blinking light around gear indicator) and what was the fix? Is it difficult to drain/refill the tranny and can I refill this model through the dipstick or do I have to get underneath? Do I REALLY have to use Honda ATF only or can I use whatever??
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I have a 2011 F-150 with the center console shift lever. I mainly drive the truck during the day so it's possible I never notice this but do the gear indicators illuminate when the lights are on? I happened to look down when I put the truck in gear and noticed that the selector has a red light showing its position but it was really hard to see what gear you have selected.
Normally I just pull it down until I hit D, knowing it clicks 3 times, and I'm off. If you do happen to go into M then you see it on the dash. So I don't know if I've never noticed it or if I have a burned out bulb and its no longer lit up. It's not a big deal but I always like to replace burnt out dash lights just so it looks good but I don't know the answer to this one.
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2008 Hyundai Accent 3 door the automatic transmission indicator light on the center console is not working anymore.
There is no mention of it in the Owners Manual. Every other bulb is referenced. Should I junk it or replace the bulb?
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2005 Elantra. After I start the car and let it idle, it will slowly start to increase in RPMs without touching the gas pedal. The RPMs will stop around 3-4k and will remain there. If it put the car into gear, forward or reverse, it will surge when releasing the brake. The RPMs will vary, rising and falling, randomly but won't return to normal idle, around 2k if I remember right.
I have recently changed my fuel pump, fuel filter and screen. Also, changed spark plugs and wires.
I know that the transmission needs to be checked, it was slamming into 3rd gear when driven in automatic, but can be avoided with manual shifting. Not sure if this could have anything to do with the new problem.
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Green AC light 1998 Camry. I turned the defroster on yesterday and it didnt work...just started fogging up windows worse... while this was going on the green AC light was blinking. Later the defrost worked fine and the green AC light did not blink .... What exactly the green light is indicating. I would assume it indicates the compressor is on and working.. but dont understand why it blinked and did not work at that time I mentioned, and started working again with nothing being done.
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I am driving an 01 Accord Coupe as a trial from a family member before I decide to purchase. I am hoping to upgrade from my 91 Celica that has some strange transmission issues. Having said that, I am worried about the Accord's tranny, and I guess I am being paranoid!
When changing into 3rd gear, the car sometimes "surges" into it. It usually happens when I first start driving it, perhaps the second or third time it changes into the gear after being started up and driven. It's not for very long, perhaps half a second, and it's not a lunging type of surge, but I guess I am a bit gunshy right now. Don't want to trade one set of tranny issues for another.
It has 130,000 miles on it. My family member bought it off of someone else. They have owned it for about 2 years, but didn't drive it very often at all. I need it for a daily commuter (2+ hours a day.) I am not sure if the transmission has ever been serviced (fluid changed, etc.)
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The little green light on my Parking brake button does not illuminate when i push the button to let me know if its on and I am also getting a message on my dash saying Check Parking brake system and have vehicle checked by a dealer. What my problem could be before I take the vehicle to a dealer? Apparently the automatic parking brake is not working at all and the little green light doesnt light up when the button is pressed. I have a 07 ls460 with 112k
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We took our car in for a regular oil change and to get the 60K belt work done. While in the car they discovered that the transmission was slipping and that we were missing one of the motor mounts. They did the belt work and the oil change and then put some fluid in our car hoping that would buy us some time with our transmission. To save us time and money they said we could wait a little while on the motor mount. When I drove it home the whole car shifted and shook whenever we would come to a stop and then it would shake while idling. I called our mechanic back and they said to bring it in and that fixing the rear motor mount should take care of the problem. While back at the mechanic for the motor mount they discovered that the transmission additive had not worked and we needed a new one.
We bought a rebuilt one and now we are still left with a car that shakes when we are idling. We have had the car in two or three times after the transmission was put in for them to try and fix the issue. They have done everything short of removing the engine without any luck. Just to be sure they covered every possible angle, they just gave us new spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor rotor, distributor cap and PCV valve, but it didn't seem to do anything. The car shakes the most while idling in Drive, somewhat less in Park, somewhat less than that in Neutral and not at all in Reverse. The shaking gets even stronger if the A/C or defroster is turned on. It seems to be even worse when stopped on a downward slope. It has been several months of this and the shaking is incredibly annoying. Is there anything else our mechanic could look into?
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We have a '94 Honda accord that the automatic transmission started "slipping" in a week ago. It has 240K and runs good otherwise. It was sliping after it warms and seemed to slip mainly while shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th while accelerating quickly. If you take it real easy on the gas it does not seem to slip much (the engine revs and the car does not seem to be accelerating, so I assume that means it's slipping - maybe not?).
I don't believe the auto trans fluid had been changed in over 100K+. The car sat for about 2 years and then I changed oil, replaced tires & battery and started using it with no probs until this (I've been using it for about a month now).
Today I changed the auto trans fluid (very dark/dirty but no real burn smell - and just a little metallic "shavings" on the magnetic drain plug), and drove the car fairly hard and heated everything up real good and it hardly slips at all now.
My questions are - with the fluid change making such a drastic improvement (at least for now), should I repeat the process and change it again? Should I try an aftermarket "miracle" additive to claims to prevent slipping? What about trying the Honda brand fluid vs. the "Autostore" brand Dexron VI that is recommended for Hondas requiring Dexron II (apparently they don't make D-II anymore)? Could it be something else - sensor, linkage, etc. (seems doubtful with the improvement with the fluid change?)?
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord EX v6 and I have been taking it the dealer for regular maintenance and Oil Change but today I noticed my Car would not start
I can hear the engine start , but when I put the Gear (automatic ) in either reverse or D4 the engine will stop.
Then I waited for some time and restarted it and It was OK.
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Month ago the malfunction indicator turned on. On checking it was found that wires over the engine were eaten by rats. Reconnection of wires solved the problem.
Today the malfunction indicator light is blinking. Could it be the same wires going loose?
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I started my Treg this morning and let it warm up for several minutes. I noticed on the lcd right above the temperature I had a graphic of the low 4 wheel drive symbol. Also the lights on the control wheel (where you would put it into low 4 wheel) by the gear shift was blinking on and off. So I drove it for awhile and I knew I wasn't in low 4 wheel. I stopped and turned off the engine and turned it back on. It was normal. this has happened 3 times now. Only when starting cold. I would then turn it off then back on and the symbol and the blinking would stop.
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Just cleaned out the oil seperator box on my 93 850, put new injector seals in and a new intake gasket. Start up the car ran rough for a little then idles like a champ. The problem-shift up indicator is blinking. Barely put my fut on the gas shifts up a gear then back down then back up, I think I unplugged something by accident.
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The car is a 2005.5 GLI (75k mi) w/ EvoTech Stg1 software, GHL stack intake, and an Iridium billet diverter valve.
Well today I was driving and the Malfunction Indicator Light on the dash came on and started blinking. When I stepped on the accelerator, the car felt like it had 1/4 the power and began shaking. The car idles kind of weakly, and feels like it has no power when you step on the gas. Also, when you step on the gas the car will shake. The strength of the shaking depends on how hard I press on the throttle, more throttle = more shaking. There is no shaking when it idles or when I have it cruising, only when accelerating.
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I have a 36 foot motor home on a 2000 Ford F53 chassis. (similar to single axle freight trucks and school busses) After getting one set of the rear wheels partially stuck, which resulted in some spinning of that side, the overdrive off light on the shift lever began to blink and the service engine soon light came on. The fault code said, "speed sensor showing more than one mile per hour". Now the automatic transmission sometimes will not shift into first gear after stopping and has to be manually downshifted, after which, it works fine.
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So couple of days ago, I went shopping. no issues. after shopping i fired it up, no issues, put it reverse, car was shaking, put the car in neutral. No issues, put the car in drive car is shaking again. i started to drive no shaking, however the car felt like it had no power, I only felt shaking during switching from R TO N TO D. So I change to manual mode and see the gear was 3rd. i was not able to change gears manually, neither did the tranny switched them for me. I drove home about a 3 miles. shut the car off, restart it...gears and car drives normal. Took to dealership, they checked it...and of course no issues. Ihave 44k miles and 50k warranty expires next week, nice, huh? got another year of powetrain warranty left.
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2200 Miles... It will not shift into 2nd gear in automatic and the rpms race up to 4000 when going about 20 mph. The only way to get it to work again is turning car off and on again. It has only happened twice.
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I have a 2007 prius and when I pass 30 miles per hr the slip indicator light start blinking and a beeping sound. What is going on and I have a vsc light on too
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I just noticed last night that my transmission was slipping in 3rd gear, it's an automatic. I added just about a quart of transmission fluid today....took a little drive and it still seems to be having the same problem? What might be causing this besides needing to get a new/rebuilt transmission?
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So I have a 2006 Hyundai accent with 75000KM on it. I notice when it shifts from 1st to 2nd gear sometimes it will jerk. It feels almost as if it goes to neutral and then sifts, causing the whole car to jerk. It use to only do it when the car was cold (first 15 min of the day) but now it seems to be doing it all the time and getting worse. I have had the transmission fluid replaced, but it doesn't seem to work.
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I have a rather strange issue with my '11 sedan gl and it appears to be getting worse but the issue is so intermittent that its hard to find a pattern.
The problem is that sometimes in the first 5 minutes of a drive, I will have very rough gear changes. Its an all or nothing usually. If I start my drive, it will either do it or it wont and if it does, its gonna last a good 5 minutes or so at every gear change.
When the gear changes, I will feel a jolt a bit like I would tap the brake a little and the gear will engage but will take a good second or two before doing so. When the car runs smooth, the gear changes are smooth and quick but I just get that strange behavior once in a while and when it happens, I always wonder if the transmission will break on me.
The occurrence of this is rather concerning as of late. Last winter as an example, it happened only 2-3 times the whole winter. Lately however, it is almost doing it every day (I've had it happen maybe 3 times this week).
I went to the dealer. No error codes and they can't find anything wrong with it and since this happens only during the first 5 minutes or so for the entire day, when they do a test run they of course can't spot the problem. I went to a local garage and same thing there again same response.
At first I thought that I didn't leave the car idle long enough during the cold winter days but we are in the 20 degrees Celsius now. At startup, I always wait until the engine drops the rpm back at 1000 or so before getting on my way (which is between 30 to 60 seconds).
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