I have a 2000 Honda Accord - VTec - 4Cyl - 2.3L - Engine Type: F23A1.
The temperature gauge in the dash board does not function. I was told the temperature sending unit must be changed.
Where exactly on the engine is this unit located?
I have a 93 accord ex sedan, 4 cylinder, automatic that I bought in August. I live in South Dakota & it's starting to get cold here. When I first bought the car the temp gauge was working fine in that it would move to the middle of hot/cold range. Recently, I've noticed the interior doesn't get warm for awhile, even after driving 20 miles. It blows warm air but it seems like it should be warmer. I've also noticed the temperature gauge barely moves, if it does at all. Most of the time it doesn't move or just stays on cold. I did some research on here & thought I would try to change the thermostat, upper & lower hose and the antifreeze. I'm hoping this will heat up the interior better because it's starting to get cold here & fix the temp gauge.
Previously, I had a 91 accord & that would warm up great, even when it was bitterly cold here. What would cause the temp gauge to do this? I'm even thinking about changing the transmission control module because I read on here that could cause the gauges to have wrong readings. The speedo & rpm gauges also seem to have wrong readings, especially in the mornings or when I first drive it. I used my gps & found the speedo to be off by as much as 10 mph. The other item I've noticed is that I only get around 23-25 mpg highway & on my other accord I was averaging 28-30 mpg highway. Not sure if this is related or not but thought the more info the better.
I have done all the basic maintenance-oil & filter, plugs & wires, valve cover gasket, air filter, tranny fluid but have never done anything with the heating/cooling system.
So recently (past few weeks) I've noticed my temperature gauge on the dash cluster doesn't jump up to 190 as it had before. It just sits there when I start the car, and then eventually builds up as I start driving. Reason this concerns me is because I don't remember this ever happening.
View 9 RepliesLast fall I had my radiator flushed and at the same time my coolant overfill canister with built in temperature guage sensor was replaced with a new unit. (The service station replaced the resevoir canister with a new unit in the engine compartment, because they felt the sensor is prone to failing after 7 years.)
Ever since, my temperature gauge needle on the dash will randomly drop (even when the car is up to FULL OPERATING TEMPERATURES) showing the engine being cooler than it out to be. In other words the needle drops signifying to a much lower water temperature. After a period of time the needle will recover back to the normal full operating temperature mark on the dash gauge.
What could cause this? Inside my radiator do I have a "diafram" temperature valve that could be failing /"sticking?" In other words could a temperature valve in the radiator be sticking at odd or random times??? I also notice that my heater does not put out the usual full furnace heat that a Passat is know for. The temperature is about 1/3 cooler now that we are into winter temperatures.
Is my heater core clogged?
Could the new coolant sensor in the new coolant overfill chamber not be working well? This whole situation began AFTER my radiator was flushed, and AFTER I had the coolant reservoir canister and sensor replaced.
I have a 1992 Aerostar 3.0L end my temperature gauge on the dash doesn't move at all. Stays all the way to the left. I read on other forums that to make sure the gauge and the wiring are ok, i need to connect the wire that goes to the sensor unit to the negative of the battery. Gauge should go all the way to hot when the ignition switch is put to on position. That was exactly my results. So, i replaced the temp sensor unit but still gauge doesn't move. I didn't use any sealant on the threads when i installed the sensor. Connector looks ok. The engine warms up fine. I really don't know what else to think or do.
View 11 Replies2000 mercury grand marquis drives fine and then suddenly temp gauge in dash shoots straight up and then comes straight back down. This lasts for about 3 seconds. The engine will hesitate during these 3 seconds. Then it drives around fine for awhile (an hour or so) and then suddenly shoots back up again. I have replaced the coolant temp sensor and thermostat and coolant level is normal. There is no coolant in my oil or any signs of a leak. My alternator was charging a bit high the other day at 15.4 and I am not sure if that would cause the temp gauge to act up.
View 16 RepliesJust about every trip i take my temp gauge pegs and dinger goes off and check gauges lights up in the message center. It eventually will go back to normal or if i shut key off and restart truck it goes to normal. im guessing it is the temperature sensor for the gauge but not sure?? If it is, where is the gauge sensor located?
View 14 RepliesOur emissions light lit up on the dash board of our Elantra. I took the car into the garage we have been taking it to for 5 years. The new office manager said we need front brake pads and new rotor and a new AC belt. and then they discovered the rear o2 sensor needs to be replaced.
View 9 RepliesOn my 2000 toyota celica I have no dash lights Including no fuel gauge level indicators. I can not find any bad fuses unless there is another hidden fuse box somewhere...
View 4 RepliesI am not getting any lights on blank dash board of car radio. However, I am getting other lights of the buttons.
View 2 RepliesThis past Saturday afternoon I'm out driving on the highway when the temperature gauge on dash maxes-out and the overheat warning light comes on. I get off at the next exit and stop at the nearest repair shop. (Which happened to be not too far from the exit.) During these moments of driving the car is not behaving as if it were overheating. No steam/vapor coming from the engine, it's performing okay, A/C runs cold, running heater on full-blast seems to do nothing to ease the gauge and the temperature in the engine bay feels about "normal."
So, since this is a Saturday at almost 5PM most of the repair shops are closing (it's a known fact cars don't break down past 5 o'clock on Saturdays.) So they say the'll look at it on Sunday.
I get a call on Sunday and I'm told that as near as they can tell the car is not overheating, the overheat light or check-engine lights weren't coming on and the car is behaving normally. The thermostat is "gunked up" and they recommend new coolant or a coolant flush." I just opt for new coolant, forgoing the flush, as I didn't really have the funds for it, an additional $100 or so. They say there are no codes in the system.
They do it and end up having to keep the car overnight so that the... air bubbles will work out of it? (?!)
I pick it up this past Monday evening and on the drive home the temp-gauge does as it was doing when this process began. It started creeping "hotter and hotter" meanwhile the car is behaving otherwise fine. (No overheat light this time.) Get home, open the hood, no vapor, no excess heat. Nothing.
They spend quite a bit of time running it, hooking it up to a diagnostic machine, etc. While the temp-gauge is sort of "floating around" between normal and "hot" it doesn't reach an "overheat" and the diagnostic machine registers normal temperatures. This time they find a code in the system, though the check-engine light has never come on. They recommend, again, the coolant flush so I go ahead and do it (they give me a discount), and drive the car home, again the temp-gauge "floats" around the dial, never quite getting to "overheating."
I drive to work just fine Thursday (today) morning with no real trouble with the gauge. (Though, FWIW, I had to tap on the dash to get the dash-light on that side of the console to come on.) This brings us to Thursday afternoon.
I make a couple of errands and as I'm stopped at a pharmacy drive-thru the temp-gauge is "floating." Driving home on the highway it reaches "overheating", turning the light on (again, car is not behaving in an overheating manner. A/C still cold, running heat doesn't ease gauge, no vapor from engine compartment.) When I pull in my parking spot the A/C and the car starts to "stall" some and NOW the check-engine light comes on. I shut the car off and I see vapors coming from under the hood.
I open the hood and the engine is covered in the anti-freeze/coolant and the coolant reservoir is empty. The various hoses and such that are clipped on to parts of the front engine cowling are loose (the plastic screw/"snaps" came out of their holes) and pushing on the upper-radiator some and it seems awfully loose. (Like the upper mounts aren't properly seated or something.)
Call the shop ask them what they are doing to me, they say they'll have another look at it and pay for the tow to get the car back to their shop. Awaiting word on what is going on, likely sometime tomorrow.
All of this strikes me as very, very odd and all seems to pile up quickly from taking it to this shop. With a replaced thermostat and flushed coolant I have a hard time understanding how the engine could genuinely overheat. All of the hoses and such seemed fine, and running the engine for a while at the shop the other day generated no problems to the techs working on the car. Yet, they're the only ones who have messed with it. Assumptions on their part Tuesday afternoon were something to do with the water pump (replaced at 100,000 miles with timing belt. Car is now at 145,000 miles.) Or a faulty temperature sensor (or what passes for it on the car) sending false readings to the gauge.
Car is a 2000 Ford Focus ZTS with a 4-Cyl, 16V, 2.0 Liter engine. It has 145,000 miles on it, timing belt and water-pump were replaced at 100,000 miles have had regular oil-changes on (more or less) every 5,000 miles or so. I will admit to not getting coolant changes/flushes as often as one should but the car never really had an overheating issues or problems starting in the winter.
This morning when I started my Prius 3rd Gen 2011, I noticed three yellow lights being on. These were; something similar to handbrake light, ABS light and then the stability control light. All are in yellow. Checked tire pressure and found that one tire was low and filled it. Also, brake fluid was near the low level and I topped it. The lights are still on. I switched on and off several times but the lights are still on.
View 4 RepliesI have an 08 Accent hatchback, no sunroof. I am having water soaking the passenger floor board and getting into the heater fan. If I park on a side hill it actually drips out of the bottom of the fan motor, and you can hear it being sprayed inside it when going around a corner. Checked the windshield - seal is good, took off the cowling under it and everything was dry - including the filter for the fresh air, so it doesn't appear to be coming down through there. I even poured about 8 gallons of water down the windshield and into the run-off channel at the bottom of the windshield and nothing seemed to get into the fan or leak into car, however, by the time I drove it home 4 hours later, it was in the fan again. Is there some other way to for it to getting to the fan? It's not coming from the door side, as it is usually dry on that side when it first starts getting wet, but rather it stars from the left of the passenger foot well.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2003 Dodge SX 2.0 and the gauges all stop working from time to time. Everything else works fine except the gauges...
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 f250 last night we had a good rain and this morning as i was backing down the driveway water came running down the passenger side floor board from under the dash i cant seem to find where it came from on the inside and can not find any standing water under the cowl where could it be coming from?
View 3 RepliesI have a switch under the dash that Im not quite sure what it does. I have an 07 XLT supercrew. Has the factory alarm I imagine. My brother has the same year, but no switch. Doesn't seem to do anything, tried to trace wires, the seem to join up with some other wires under neath the steering console area.
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About 2 months ago ('06 Prius - 386K) 12v battery was replaced - red triangle disappeared and everything has been fine. ( I have driven the car about 7K since replacement).
Now on my 2800 mile trip, the following is happening. With Cruise Control on and functioning - freeway traffic comes to an almost halt (5-8 mph) after traffic picks up Cruise Control light on dash is flashing and will not function. (Pull over and re-boot the Win95 machine - and everything is back to working until next slow down).
I am now driving on a service road to my hotel at approx. 25mph and as I go over every patch in the asphalt my Traction Control light comes on and then off and it makes the car act like it is on ice ( and yes the Cruise Control light is back to flashing).
On my journey on this 5 miles of access road then my stereo volume starts going up and down all on its own. If I try turning the volume knob nothing happens. I push the knob in and then push on the knob to come back out and then the volume knob works and then the volume control on the steering wheel starts to work as well.
It only burns oil when the ambient temp is above freezing. Why would this be?
View 7 RepliesI have a 1998 Honda Accord Coupe with a 2.3L straight 4 with a 5 speed manual. Last night when I was driving home the car was idling at around 200 RPM when the engine was warm. And then this morning it started fine, ran fine, but as the engine temperature increased the idle decreased, as it should. But even when it wasn't fully at the proper temp it was idling at 500 RPM. When it warmed up to the proper temp it was idling at 150, yes 150. It was touching the 0 RPM line, but it didn't stall. It has had problems in the past with initial low idling, like when you disengage the clutch, but never constantly idling so low. Keep in mind that the idling hasn't progressively gotten lower over time. The problem just arose last night. Also, it accelerates fine, and the check engine light isn't on. What is most likely the cause?
View 4 RepliesTwo things are going on with my car. First, when I drive at freeway speeds and turn on the heater, the car temperature drops and then I hear the sound of a tea kettle going off. Second, I hear an off and on sound coming from under the hood on the passenger side. It sounds like metal scratching on metal or like a soft whistle sound. 1997 Honda Accord LX
View 3 RepliesI have had my honda for a few months now and have had a few problems in that time. At first it started with the check engine light coming on when heated up but then my car began to randomly die while I'm driving down the road. Every time that it would die I was able to start it back up almost right after it died. Also when I come to a stop my temperature gauge will start to rise and when I turn the car off I can hear the fans continuing to run for about 10 mins. Now my car will drive until it heats up and then it will die and not start back up until it has cooled down. My dad told me that he thought that my main relay went bad but I replaced that and nothing has changed...
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