I have a 2000 Honda Accord EX v6 and I have been taking it the dealer for regular maintenance and Oil Change but today I noticed my Car would not start
I can hear the engine start , but when I put the Gear (automatic ) in either reverse or D4 the engine will stop.
Then I waited for some time and restarted it and It was OK.
I have a 2000 Honda Accord with 170,000 miles on it. Runs great. The car alarm goes off randomly in spurts. Some days it goes off multiple times. Sometimes it will go a week or two without going off at all. The battery has been replaced in hopes of solving the problem. That didn't work. So, I have taking out the alarm sounding device so as to not disturb the neighbors. However, I find that dangerous and it doesn't solve the problem of the persistent alarm. I can tell when it is going off by the flashing lights. I thought it was the clicker, so I switched that and that didn't work either.
View 4 RepliesI recently bought a 1998 Honda Accord with 124,000 miles. The car had one owner for 14 years. The carfax indicates the owner maintained service on the vehicle, but didn't go into detail about the work that was done. (only that the started had be replaced) When I come to a complete stop the car downshifts rough into first gear. It almost feels like it slightly jumps forward. Is this a problem I need to address and if so what is the problem? I bought it from a trusted dealership who had their mechanics give it a check and said nothing was wrong with it.
View 6 RepliesI drive an automatic transmission. After driving about 10 miles, when I come to a stop sign/stoplight in drive 4, the car will "brake" but will idle and then violently shake back into gear. It doesn't seem to happen in Drive 3, so what I do before a stoplight etc is slowly shift down to D2 or D1. Is the transmission totally shot? I had it replaced once.
View 19 RepliesMy 2000 Civic DX has approx. 55K miles on it. For the past several weeks, the Automatic transmission gear is resisting/sticking about half the time when shifting from Drive to Park and vice versa. (In November 2010 I had a local mechanic-- whom I found on Yelp and who has done other work including replacing the timing belt--replace the ATF, telling him he had to use Honda fluid). What is causing the sticking?
View 3 RepliesI just rolled over to 90,000 miles on my 2002 Accord. Its running beautifully, however every so often the car "rumbles" or "shudders" when I'm releasing the clutch after I shift into second gear, or sometimes it'll do it when I'm facing up a hill pulling into first gear letting out the clutch. Its almost as if the clutch rapidly grabs then slips a bunch of times, similar to if it was warped. It doesn't completely slip at all to my knowledge. The car was bought new by my family and has been driven pretty carefully since (although 2 people have learned to drive stick on it, and my dad isn't the most "gentle" driver in the universe). I know that Clutch rebuilding and replacing is a big expensive job and its something I wouldn't even consider doing myself. So, when is it time to really seriously consider dropping down the serious cash to get the clutch rebuilt? To be honest, the shuddering is really annoying (it doesn't happen all the time though) but its something I could live with for a bit.
View 8 RepliesI have an 04 Accord EXV6 with 237K miles. I have recently replaced shock absorber assemblies and all 6 motor mounts / transmission mounts, which resolved most of the loud "clunking" noises. However, I now have more of a "rattle" sound which I hear when one of three things happens...First, when the engine is started (typically when the engine is cold). Secondly, when shifting between park, reverse, and drive (also, more common when engine is cold). Lastly, when driving over rough roads or potholes at slow speed. The sound is the same in each of the 3 conditions, and appears to be coming from the right side. It doesn't seem to me that any bushings, control arms. etc. would be the cause since the same sound is heard during startup or gear shifting while the car is sitting still.
View 16 RepliesI have a 2000 Honda Accord V6 sedan (under 100k miles). For two years now I have had a check engine light.
Originally I was told it was a CO sensor that was broke. But now when I get the car inspected, the inspector says I have a catalytic error.
So off to the mechanic. They replace the catalytic converter, claiming it was just an empty shell.
Check engine light comes back on the next day after all that money spent. Back to the mechanic. He says now that the intakes into the catalytic system there are all clogged, so that needs to be scrubbed. Many hundred dollars later, and the problem persists. Still a check engine light.
What could be causing this check engine light nightmare? I cannot get the car inspected so I have that added head ache.
My car shakes when I start the engine, and continues to shake, it doesn't matter what gear I'm in. It also smells like gas when I get out of the car. Since my check engine light is blinking, and with all I've heard on the show, next step is to to take it to a mechanic. My question is, would it be okay to drive it 5 miles to a mechanic, or should I have it towed? Someone said it may be a misfire, and to change the spark plugs?
2000 Honda Accord Ex 6 Cylinder 163K on the mileage....
Honda Accord 2004 EX V6 150,000 Miles. The car is paid off, I'm the original owner and it has no problems, apart from it seems like the clutch is beginning to wear down. Some times in drive when I step on the gas it spins up just a little and jerks forward. Is is worth getting the clutch repaired?
View 10 RepliesOwn a 2000 Accord EX; 100k...runs great and smooth 99.9% of the time. However every once in a while, like maybe once a month or so it starts, but sounds and feels like its firing on 3 cyl...will die if I try to put in gear, or take foot off accelerator. If I shut it off and try starting it again same thing will happen. However if I let it sit awhile (sometimes one hour sometimes next day) it will start smoothly and run beautifully. Problem seems unrelated to temperature, weather, time since last use, stage of the moon, engine temp, parked on hill or flat road. or who tries to start the car...
View 2 RepliesWe took our car in for a regular oil change and to get the 60K belt work done. While in the car they discovered that the transmission was slipping and that we were missing one of the motor mounts. They did the belt work and the oil change and then put some fluid in our car hoping that would buy us some time with our transmission. To save us time and money they said we could wait a little while on the motor mount. When I drove it home the whole car shifted and shook whenever we would come to a stop and then it would shake while idling. I called our mechanic back and they said to bring it in and that fixing the rear motor mount should take care of the problem. While back at the mechanic for the motor mount they discovered that the transmission additive had not worked and we needed a new one.
We bought a rebuilt one and now we are still left with a car that shakes when we are idling. We have had the car in two or three times after the transmission was put in for them to try and fix the issue. They have done everything short of removing the engine without any luck. Just to be sure they covered every possible angle, they just gave us new spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor rotor, distributor cap and PCV valve, but it didn't seem to do anything. The car shakes the most while idling in Drive, somewhat less in Park, somewhat less than that in Neutral and not at all in Reverse. The shaking gets even stronger if the A/C or defroster is turned on. It seems to be even worse when stopped on a downward slope. It has been several months of this and the shaking is incredibly annoying. Is there anything else our mechanic could look into?
We have a '94 Honda accord that the automatic transmission started "slipping" in a week ago. It has 240K and runs good otherwise. It was sliping after it warms and seemed to slip mainly while shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th while accelerating quickly. If you take it real easy on the gas it does not seem to slip much (the engine revs and the car does not seem to be accelerating, so I assume that means it's slipping - maybe not?).
I don't believe the auto trans fluid had been changed in over 100K+. The car sat for about 2 years and then I changed oil, replaced tires & battery and started using it with no probs until this (I've been using it for about a month now).
Today I changed the auto trans fluid (very dark/dirty but no real burn smell - and just a little metallic "shavings" on the magnetic drain plug), and drove the car fairly hard and heated everything up real good and it hardly slips at all now.
My questions are - with the fluid change making such a drastic improvement (at least for now), should I repeat the process and change it again? Should I try an aftermarket "miracle" additive to claims to prevent slipping? What about trying the Honda brand fluid vs. the "Autostore" brand Dexron VI that is recommended for Hondas requiring Dexron II (apparently they don't make D-II anymore)? Could it be something else - sensor, linkage, etc. (seems doubtful with the improvement with the fluid change?)?
Sounds like I may have a problem that is not all that uncommon i have a 94 honda accord with 100k miles, runs great, handles great
Just last week I noticed a resonant humming / growling sound coming from the engine - it's very "vocal"it only occurs around 2000 rpm, and is more pronounced when decelerating there's no apparent loss of power or fuel efficiency the sound occurs with or without the transmission engaged and seems to be worse after the car has heated up a bit
Cat converter? Intake manifold?
2001 Accord, 6cyl. 3.0, automatic transmission. The last few weeks its been shifting a little rougher, but nothing thatd alarm me. Then last night, the check engine light popped on and the little green light around the D4 on the dash began blinking. I turned it off for a minute, restarted it and blinking light was gone but not check engine. Sat there and shifted through all the gears and the only thing I don't like is when i go from D3 to 2 and back. It shifts real hard there. Not as hard shifting back from 2 to D3 though. All other gears shift fine.
Also, I checked the fluid on the dipstick and it was right under the lower dot. Its my wifes old car and she "doesn't remember" if shes ever had the tranny flushed and a buddy said if it hasn't been flushed regularly by this point(125K miles), not a good idea to flush, just drain and refill. (Green blinking light around gear indicator) and what was the fix? Is it difficult to drain/refill the tranny and can I refill this model through the dipstick or do I have to get underneath? Do I REALLY have to use Honda ATF only or can I use whatever??
I'm having problems with my automatic transmission in a 2002 Saturn SL. About 2 months ago I noticed a delay when I would put my saturn in reverse and it would sort of kick into gear after a few seconds (up to 10seconds sometimes). I wasn't worried much about this at first until another problem started happening. Between second and third gear it seems to be shifting slow/hard(?). I can feel where it wants to shift, but its slow to shift and actual revs high before shifting down. The problem doesn't always exist, and some days its more then others. We took it to get a transmission fluid/filter change and this didn't solve the problem. Took it back for a transmission diagnositc and GM told us we need to replace the transmission or do an overhaul. They didn't explain why really though- no clear answer. I've heard everything from the torque converter to a solenoid problem.
View 3 RepliesMy 2000 Honda CRV starts when cold, however I must continue to give it gas and it will die when I shift into Reverse or Drive. If I rev the engine, I can keep it running and it will run OK once warmed up. When I get it going, the engine will stall if I attempt to let it idle. All problems resolve themselves once the engine is warm. Several mechanics have seen the problem, but cannot determine a solution other than to let the engine warm up. I live in Boston and the combination of having to work my way out of a parking space and the enginge continously stalling when I shift into R or D is making life difficult?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 Honda Accord, 4 cylinder, automatic transmission. Transmission slips in reverse when backing up a slight incline. Will changing the transmission fluid solve this problem? The car has 115000 miles on it.
View 2 RepliesI had to really hard brake today over a very very short distance...the tires locked and the car slid for about 5 feet. Car is 2000 corolla, 4-spd auto.
As soon as I came to a full stop, I notice the engine was still "spinning" like it was in second gear...because the RPM was around 1000rpm (idle is 650). As soon as I started moving, there was a slight clunk noise (sounded like it came from CV half axle/transmission).
Although rare, This also happened a couple of times before when hard braking. It downshifts to 2.. idles around 1000rpm for a couple of seconds... and then there is a "slight" clunk noise.
Other than this, the transmission/engine has been very smooth and the car has no problems.
Toyota corolla 2013 automatic gear reverse lights don't work after I installed new stereo it's my fault i shorted 12v positive backup (reverse) light trigger camera stereo v12+ cable to ground while backup (gear R) in place. As a result reserve lights don't work beside gear indicator doesn't show on main screen. I can drive without problem but problem still intact.
I checked all fuses and they are all okay I need to identify problem or possible repair too I only find 2 fuses behind glove box i think they call "instrument panel" there are bunch of cable and underneath of cables there is only 2 rectangle shape fuses I could not see anything else, the other fuse box is in engine compartment i thoroughly tested each small fuses they are all okay is there anything else i forgot to check ?
I attached also instrument panel screen shot ....
1992 Honda Accord with 104,000 miles automatic transmission..was my mom's car and has been consistently maintained and serviced and gently driven!!The car performs well until...about 3 weeks ago when it starting revving up and the D4 light stayed on even when I was in reverse. Idling high and Drove like the car was in high gear.
Mechanic #1 checked the gear position switch and checked connection at Trans ECM. After unplugging and re-pluging in connector system functioned properly. And it did for about one week. then we were back to the same problem and it was clear that the car was not shifting like it should.
Mechanic #2 didn't provide much feedback: he emphatically stated that it was a transmission problem and that the trans would absolutely need to be rebuilt: price quote: $3500 including labor. I'm scratching my head at this point & reaching for the aspirin..as little as I know about cars I'm wondering how a transmission needs to be rebuilt at 104k?
Oh well..as much as I like this car, I don't want to put in $3500 and hope for the best. Mechanic #3 is a Hondo maven..and he says it's not the transmission...this is what he says: checked for codes; found none. Reset Transmission computer by removing power to it resulting in the car running better and D4 light if off. He advises that we Wait & See if problem happens again.. He suspects a possible electrical problem. Car does drive better and the D4 light remains off but when I get on the freeway the car seems stressed and noisy and when I decelerate, it's noisy. I am waiting for the other foot to drop.