Accord :: 2000 - Bad Vibration At Idle - Revving The Engine Smooths It Out At Certain RPM
Oct 3, 2004
I have a 2000 Accord with a 2.3L 4 cylinder and manual transmission. I just changed the timing belt, balancer belt, water pump, tensioner wheels and other external belts. I now get a bad engine vibration at idle and when backing up and pulling forward. The vibration is quite noticeable in the steering wheel. Revving the engine smooths it out at certain RPM's. I know this isn't right and its got to be limited to something I just did. I followed the instructions in the Honda service manual and thought that everything went back to gather correctly. I double checked the timing and balancer alignments. The motor mount on the drivers side is simple and all went back together correctly. Is there a way to verify correct timing belt and balancer belt alignments without tearing it all down again?
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I've just done an engine swap to my 2000 GTS Celica. The new engine seems to run nice and tight and smooth and everything but I can't seem to bring the idle down. It stays revving at about 2000 RPM and the check engine light is on. The engine is from Japan and only has 35,000 kms. on it.
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My car is a 2001 honda accord v6. It sat for 3 winter months. When I go to turn it on in the morning, the car will rev while idling. Jumping between 1000 and 3000 rpms. Why this might be happening?
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I just got my MIV r32 and recently it has been vibrating like crazy right when I hit about 50mph and then kinda smooths out at about 65mph. I noticed when i turn right like getting on the freeway it smooths out considerably.
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My Buick has started acting weird and I've had a hard time figuring out what's going on. As I understand it 94' was the transition year for the OBD1 and OBD2 sensors, therefore auto zone and o'reilly haven't been able to pull codes on my car. It runs off of OBD1 codes but has 16 point OBD2 sensor pins.
Here's the problem: When the car is started it revs up to 2000rpm at idle, when shifted into neutral the rpm jumps up to 3500. In drive and reverse it goes back down to 2000rpm. While driving the car is hard to stop and surges when I take my foot off the break, it also gains speed on flat ground without touching the gas pedal. After driving the car when I put it back in park it revs back up to 3500rpm and is quite noisy.
I've replaced the mass airflow sensor, cleaned out the entire throttle body (there was a little carbon build up but not too bad), replaced all the vacuum hoses(that put a stop to it for about a week), and I'm still having the same problems. I recently replaced the a/c pump because the bearings went bad but I don't think that would cause any problems like this.
I have a very, very slight gasket leak on my valve covers but it's been like that for the last few months and the car was acting fine. The car has done this before but it usually stops after you drive it somewhere. The hotter it's gotten out the more often it started happening and now it's not stopping like it did before.
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My 2000 Ranger (4.0L, V6, manual tranny) is acting weird in first and second gears as well as idle. I hear a ticking and then the engine revs. At idle, I see the tach needle move a little. While driving, the truck jerks. It's a smooth ride once I move into third gear.
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I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
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I am due for an inspection for a 2004 Camry (4 cyl.).
I had the engine light come on with a P2231 or P2238 code on my OBDII tool. Car was running fine, no weirdness whatsoever. But I went ahead and changed the front sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1). As soon as I changed the code went away and it is not coming out anymore, nor are other codes.
However, the engine doesn't idle after 5 minutes running. I have to keep revving it up at the light to keep going. I shut it off and it turns on no problem. But then it doesn't idle. What a pain, I used the Bosch O2 sensor bought from AutoZone.
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This is something my car has been doing for a while but it seems like it's gotten gradually worse, or at least I've been noticing it more. The car's a 1996 Mercury Mystique 2.0L 4-cyl, 74000 miles. The issue arises when I am idling in drive (like at a red light). There is a distinct rumbling that you can feel through the seat and the steering wheel, and see if you look at the wheel or dashboard. It's not visible from outside the car, though.
The vibration is worst when the car is idling low -- typically around 500 rpm. When I'm driving, the vibration is not noticeable. Also, when idling, the rpms "pulse" upwards to about 700 rpm, and the vibration goes away. It will be rough for about 5 seconds, then bump up to 700 rpm for a second or so and smooth out. If the car is in neutral or park, the vibration goes away.
So I suppose there's two issues: 1) the low idle that "pulses" upwards, and 2) the vibration itself. Is the vibration just an effect of idling too low, and raising the idle might fix the problem? What would cause a low idle? Or, if the idle does not seem too low, what would cause vibration that is dependent on RPMs?
The scheduled maintenance is up to date, but the car is due for 75K maintenance next weekend. The PCV system was cleaned and valve replaced, air filter replaced, and spark plugs and wires replaced 12000 miles (~1 yr) ago. The idle air control valve was replaced at around 55000 miles (~2 yrs ago), I believe (the previous owner, a friend of mine, had had trouble with the car stalling at idle, and replacing the IACV seemed to fix it).
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My engine temp gets too hot when revving the engine but cools down at idle. The top rad hose is hot and the bottom rad hose is cool. I'm suspecting a stuck thermostat?
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After changing the PCV valve, I decided to rev the engine to test if it was installed tightly. I noticed the engine was not hot yet, but I still revved the engine to 4000 RPM for about 20 seconds (the most stupid thing I have done), then I saw white smoke coming from the engine. I didn't check if there was smoke out of exhaust pipe. After searching the web, I realized I might have damaged the head gasket.
The car is still drivable, and the temperature was normal during the driving. But I feel really bad since I have killed the engine. So, how much damage I might have possibly done to the engine?
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I got a 2002 accent 1.3 si, engine warning light comes on but doesn't seem to affect cars running, no misfires, no stalling, still good acceleration and mpg, occasional engine revving on its own, changed tps sensor and engine revving on its own was worse. Was told by hyundai mechanic to disconnect battery for 30 seconds and if light went out it was either faulty tps sensor or an intermittent non constant fault reading, light did go out for some time but is now back on.
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Having DTC of P0507? Engine is revving a bit higher at idle than normal.
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I have a 2000 model accent manual trans its just recently clocked 200 000 km I know the car has had problems but they are getting worse. Occasionally I have Problems starting the car in the past but it usually takes no more than 5 turns to get started but this is getting worse the other day it took about 5 min maybe more to get the car started I am guessing my starter motor probably Needs to be changed.
Next problem yesterday after I put a full tank of Premium 98 in the car its starts to rev itself changing the sound and note of the motor running constantly it has done this in the past but not so severely and It only seem to do so after putting petrol Especially when I put fuel From a servo I don't usually go to the car would have stalled more than once but didn't only because I tried to keep the revs up when it sounded like it was gunna die also I am pretty sure my fan was making some weird noises but the car has had no engine Light show and no Overheating.
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Might be a long shot here, but I JUST had this noise/rattle pop up in my '12 GTI 6MT w/ 13k miles.
Turns out I found someone who posted a video with basically the same noise:
Another one:
I hear the same noise while stopped and revving the engine as well as when driving if I let off the throttle and let the RPM's sweep down past the same rev range (1,800-2,000). Sounds like it's coming from the passenger side area.
I'm under warranty so I'm going to take it to the dealership...but I know how they can be with rattles.
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I have a 1998 Accord and anyone who's driven that car knows that it rides quiet and smooth. I recently took my car to the mechanic for a head gasket change and ever since I got it back, it just doesn't drive the same!!! There is a lot of engine vibration and noise that wasn't there before. When I accelerate the car seems to vibrate every piece of plastic in the car which makes it super noisy. I sent it back 3 times and the mechanic doesn't seem to find any problem with it.
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I have a 98 Honda Accord 4 cylinder with 110k miles on it. It used to be very quite and drives smoothly. I recently had my timing belt and water pump replaced. Right after i got my car back from my mechanic, the driving felt differently. Two main problems, first, every time I stop at red lights or traffic, the car vibrates and you can feel it from the steering wheel. Second, when I start to accelerate and when engine is over 2100 rpm, the engine becomes much louder than before, I feel like I am driving a race car. Other than these two problems, the can seems to drive fine. I took it back and they told me this is normal and takes time to settle down. Is this normal after the time belt change or what might have gone wrong?
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1992 Honda Accord with 104,000 miles automatic transmission..was my mom's car and has been consistently maintained and serviced and gently driven!!The car performs well until...about 3 weeks ago when it starting revving up and the D4 light stayed on even when I was in reverse. Idling high and Drove like the car was in high gear.
Mechanic #1 checked the gear position switch and checked connection at Trans ECM. After unplugging and re-pluging in connector system functioned properly. And it did for about one week. then we were back to the same problem and it was clear that the car was not shifting like it should.
Mechanic #2 didn't provide much feedback: he emphatically stated that it was a transmission problem and that the trans would absolutely need to be rebuilt: price quote: $3500 including labor. I'm scratching my head at this point & reaching for the aspirin..as little as I know about cars I'm wondering how a transmission needs to be rebuilt at 104k?
Oh well..as much as I like this car, I don't want to put in $3500 and hope for the best. Mechanic #3 is a Hondo maven..and he says it's not the transmission...this is what he says: checked for codes; found none. Reset Transmission computer by removing power to it resulting in the car running better and D4 light if off. He advises that we Wait & See if problem happens again.. He suspects a possible electrical problem. Car does drive better and the D4 light remains off but when I get on the freeway the car seems stressed and noisy and when I decelerate, it's noisy. I am waiting for the other foot to drop.
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I have been picking at an engine vibration for more than a year.
I have a '00 Explorer 302 V8 installed in an '82 Volvo. This engine/transmission has not been abused and only has 15k miles since it left the Ford factory. It was found intact on a pallet in dry storage. Everything was there as from Ford from the fan to the transmission output bushing. There is an engine vibration beginning about 2000 rpm in PARK so the problem is not in the transmission or drive shaft.
Perfectly smooth at idle and until you approach the start of the vibration.
Replaced the viscous clutch mechanical fan with duel electric so it isn't an out of balance fan.
Pulled the serpentine belt this afternoon and still have the vibration. Might have been a little less and I did find a idler pulley that had a little rattle but the big vibration is still there with only the harmonic balancer through torque converter rotating.
Replaced the pulley. Nothing else changed from when Ford built it.
No OBD codes.
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I am posting about a cam sensor code and alternator belt squeal.
Yesterday after getting in from a 600 mile drive from salt lake to eastern Oregon i took a look at the car to put some fogs in and clean it up a bit. It had always had some odd vibration at idle and belt squeal intermittently at idle. I pressed down on the alternator at idle and the vibration noise went away. So bam. Found that.
The nut on the square head mounting bolt holding the alternator was missing. So it was kind of just flapping around. Replaced the bolt and put a lock nut on. Problem solved so I thought.
I'm still getting belt squeal. And i think that its out of alignment. It looks like the pulley side of the alternator is closer to the engine block than the other side. Is this adjustable? Is the bushing on the mounting side worn out to the point of movement? Is this fixable?
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I have a 00 Accent with 132k miles, I replaced the motor a year ago with a correct 2000 Hyundai 1.5 with 50k miles. I replaced everything that I could at the time, timing belt , starter, water pump, and clutch. It has been running fantastic getting 40 miles per gallon with zero problems , However in the last week I have noticed a rough idle that seems to miss with a vibration that it didn't have before. I have a noticeable loss of power and torque. My miles per gallon has also dropped to about 25 mpg. My check engine light is not on. I will check the plugs and change the air filter today but I would like to know what else could be causing the problem as I am not really sure what to check.
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