The entire dash goes dark (all meters, gauges) somewhat randomly while driving around. The headlights and taillights all stay on when this happens.
View 1 Replies2002 F150 5.4... I thought that I saw on here before a link that explained how to replace the heater core without removing the entire dash console. Looking for a link for this or get some good directions on how to replace the heater core?
View 1 RepliesMechanic could not find any codes on my 98 Honda Accord... The car was intermittently hesitating upon acceleration... There were no leaks or no burning odor. He recommended replacing the transmission and failed to adhere to code 3361.1... The car performed the same way after the transmission was replaced and he "could not duplicate" the problem and therefore could not fix it... He did state the clutch were burnt on the car. After failing a smog check I brought the car to a different mechanic who changed the oxygen sensor and the car has been running fine.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1998 Honda Accord that intermittently won't start. When the issue occurs the dashboard lights, radio, etc all work just fine, but the engine won't turn over (no clicking, no noise at all). It's standard vehicle, but I definitely have my foot all the way to the floor to depress the clutch safety switch. The issue only seems to occur when the car is warm (i.e. it never happens on the first start in the morning), although it's been known to happen even after 2hrs of cooling down. The issue used to only occur 1 out of 100 starts, but now it's getting closer to 1 out of 4 times. I'm able to get the car going by jump starting it, but that's getting old.
View 5 Replies2000' GMC safari's electrical system. To begin, she has 95,000mi, an although that's about a year old, a duralast gold battery about the same age, and 13.8 volts at idle on the meter at the battery. The problem, over the past couple of weeks, I'll start it and drive off as normal, an the thing wants to stall for about two seconds. After that, no problem whatsoever. One time, it actually did stall on me, and everything went dead for a couple of minutes, no juice whatsoever; noticed that even the clock in the radio read 12:00. After a few minutes, I tried to turn the key again, and it started right up. This a.m., I went to start the van, and it initially would not turn over. The started motor turned but in a weak manor. At that point we went completely dead again, no electricity whatsoever.
The strangest thing is what happened next, I pulled the hood latch release as I was about to investigate and noticed the guages on the dash move when I did, power was back. The van then started but barely, and when it did it stumbled for a few seconds before driving off without so much as a hiccup the rest of the day. The only other possibly related symptom would be a slight rough idle combined with a just noticeable dimming of the dash lights in the dark at idle. Also, I should mention that I have checked the battery terminals and they are tight and clean, the van is in excellent shape mechanically, averaging 20mpg combined, smooth acceleration, no leaks, "using oil", white or black smoke, etc. Plugs, cap, rotor, and pcv are recent. Egr and maf are both clear.
I replaced the factory head unit with a aftermarket radio. While making adjustments my battery died, I jumped my battery and now I don't have any dash lights. I found 3 blown fuses that I have replaced, however the only lights that don't work is the dash lights. I replaced the headlight switch and the dash lights are still not working?
View 6 RepliesMy sister has a 2007 Prius that continues to have electrical problems. The latest is the console will go dark and the engine will not shut down. The dealership is stumped.
View 1 RepliesI have a 98 Honda Accord in pretty good shape even though it has 340,000 miles on it. For the past month I have intermittently been having the dash idiot light that shows all 4 doors and the trunk lid is open -- coming on. In addition, the "brake" light that is just to the right of the blue "high beam" dash light, also comes on and the past week the "battery" light comes on. It also seems like the headlights slightly dim and maybe even the blower motor slows down just little. It started out lasting less than a second and now last maybe 2 or 3 seconds. I took it by one of the Advanced Auto parts stores and they did a diagnose check on the alternator, starter and battery. Everything at that moment, checked out fine. Alternator checked out good during regular operation and under loaded condition. Almost everything on the car is original except timing belt.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1998 Accord EX 4-cylinder that will not start. When I turn the key the starter does not engage. The green key indicator on the instrument panel looks like it recognizes the key security chip.
When I checked for voltage at the starter solenoid coil wire I found about 9.0 volts without turning the key. When I turned the key I got a little over 11 volts. I disconnected the wire to the solenoid coil and measured 0 volts from the coil wire to the battery BUT 9.0 volts from the tab on the solenoid valve to the battery. It makes me think something is shorted to the frame of the starter.
I have been having a problem with my dash lights intermittently going out. They are out for good now. My interior lights, license plate lights, climate control and glove box lights are out as well. The fog lights work only if my high beams are on.
I have replaced all 5 and 10 fuses. I am wondering if I have a relay out, I don't really know anything about them except their location. I'm putting a friends light switch in tomorrow to see if that's it. I have a euro switch.
2001 Honda Accord 4 cylinder... At 256K miles I had the battery and open doors, open trunk lights illuminate intermittently. Initially the lights came on for 1/2 mile. 150 miles later it was more like 20 miles on, off for a mile, on for 40 miles, off for 25 miles, on for 10 miles, and then off. A Honda dealer ( after the first 20 miles of battery light being on and 70 miles from home) replaced the battery and the lights came back on a mile down the road. I managed to get home. With engine running running battery voltage was 14.4 volts. The light stayed off for 30 miles the next day. AutoZone found no diagnostic codes. A mechanic told me that the battery light could be intermittent with a failing alternator. I changed the alternator (cracked case). The voltmeter again showed 14.4 volts with engine running. Will the car return to reliability?
View 1 RepliesI recently just got an R32, from a local guy in town. I love the car, and have driven it sparingly as I am still waiting on the title from the bank. As for now I'm doing the usual used car shake down.
I am having problems getting the gauge cluster lights to come on with the head lights. Sometimes when I move it over a bump or two it turns on. Sometimes the trick is to open and close the doors a few times it shakes the car into turning on the dash lights.
I know I have an electrical short somewhere, and I am not sure where to begin diagnosing this problem. Is it the switch? A bad connection to the gauge cluster? A bad wire? I've already pulled the switch and cleaned all the contacts. What else should I do?
I just started getting 3 dash lights that come and go intermittently? ( I'm getting a (!), ABS and VSC lights in amber). I first had these three come on while I was traveling home one evening (traveling a little too fast /approx 84mph). This 2007 Prius has 276,000 miles on her. The lights will come on, them go out once I stop for a short period of time, or slow-down and travel at 40-50 mph.
I've checked the 12V battery and its seem to meet at the recommended voltages. I did have a recall on the inverter water pump around 150K. With that said, the pump does have circulation when I remove the cap? Over the 6+ years that I've owned this car, I've only changed the oil (synthetic), replaced tires, changed a water pump/alternator belt and a second set of replacement front brake pads. This has been the BEST car (maintenance and economy-wise) that I've ever owned! She's still consistently getting 48.2mpg. I've ordered the OBD pigtail and diagnostic software....
I have a 1990 Honda Accord that I'm having a problem with. When I turn the key to start the car, the car turns over and starts great, but when I let go of the key the car immediately dies. Before I actually push the key into position III to start the car, I've discovered that I can move the key in the range between positions II and III and get the indicator lights on the dash to go on and off, so clearly there is some sort of loose electrical connection. I've discovered that if I start the car and then quickly turn the key back a ways to the point where the connection seems to be good, I can keep the car from dying and then it runs fine. Does the diagnosis of a bad ignition cylinder/switch seem to be accurate for this problem? I just don't want to replace the wrong component(s).
View 1 RepliesMy 1998 Honda accord coupe 3.0 has 225 k miles has a new sending unit, fuel pump, main relay, ignition switch, and spark plugs. I cannot find the source of why my car will not start I replaced these things on my car due to car didn't want start. Then it was fine every time I would turn a corner or drive it rpms would drop like I was running out of gas then it would die now it will not start.
I have checked all fuses. I have read in forums that this could take a lot of money to fix only because no one knows the source of why its not starting. I am a disabled female that is just trying too have a running vehicle and can't figure out why it won't start. It has a new battery but won't hold a charge. Had charged it from my friends car for 25 minutes it gave it enough juice to put it in neutral and push it in the driveway with another car.
I have a 2002 Hyundai elantra GT. Since I've got the car last year I've had this intermittent problem with the dash lights coming on every once in a while not really a lot at all. It never bothered me before because they would come on for maybe two minutes then turn off and didn't cause any problems whatsoever.? I think because they were coming on during the day. I never realized it happening at night time. In the last month the lights came on at night time and blew out all my headlights. I replaced them three times already. I read that maybe the alternator is overcharging. I haven't checked anything yet.. I'm very mechanically inclined. Just not with electrical...
View 3 RepliesProblem started within the last 2 days. Get in the car, insert key, turn to start car but the starter doesn't crank. All dash lights are on and I hear a clik when I turn the ignition key. Try it a couple of times and it finally starts. Here are the things I've tested:
1. Battery voltage reads 12.86V. Terminals clean.
2. I disconnected the ignition lead on the starter and connected a voltmeter between the ignition terminal and ground. Turned the key a dozen times and every time it read 12.4V. I'm thinking it may be the starter.
3. Remover starter and took it to a local auto part shop for testing. They say it works fine.
Now I am kinda stuck. I don't think it is the neutral safety switch as I saw 12V each time I turned the ignition. Nothing is completely ruled out yet. I suppose it still could be the safety switch
So I bought a new starter but I'm hesitant to put it in as I'm not sure that is the problem and want to be able to return it if necessary.
Put the old starter back in as I don't completely trust the part store testing. After everything assembled, I turned the ignition and no joy. Tried it a couple of more times and it started.
My dash lights have a weird glitch when the headlights are on. I can hear a click and the dash lights will go out and immediately back on almost like a blink.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford Explorer. For about the last year some of the dash lights have been turning on and off randomly and intermittently. The three lights are the check engine, the airbag and less frequently, the check gauge light. It seems like there's some connection between the lights because often when one comes on so does another and often one will turn off, but immediately another will turn on. My mechanic (not a Ford dealer) tried to fix the check engine light by diagnosing and fixing the indicated codes, but a day later the light came back on. It stayed on for a week, then one morning it stayed off, but the airbag light came on. Is there some electronic (or other) component that links these three lights and could be causing this situation?
View 1 RepliesMy headlights and dash illumination lights will intermittently flicker when I use the turn indicator to signal a right hand turn. Is it possible that there is a short in the turn indicator/high-low beam headlight control switch that is causing this?
View 5 RepliesMy car sat for 3 months and then I tried to start it. When I turn the ignition on, everything looks fine until I hit the brake pedal and the dash lights dim. If I don't press the brake, the dash light dim when I turn the ignition to crank. Either way the starter either clicks or doesn't do anything and I hear a humming sound. My husband said, "The battery has been charged and measures 12.62 volts," but the cigarette lighter voltage measures 12.26, so they are not the same. I have tried jumping it and I still get clicks.
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