Accord :: 1998 Honda Showing All Doors Open Dash Light
Dec 16, 2014
I have a 98 Honda Accord in pretty good shape even though it has 340,000 miles on it. For the past month I have intermittently been having the dash idiot light that shows all 4 doors and the trunk lid is open -- coming on. In addition, the "brake" light that is just to the right of the blue "high beam" dash light, also comes on and the past week the "battery" light comes on. It also seems like the headlights slightly dim and maybe even the blower motor slows down just little. It started out lasting less than a second and now last maybe 2 or 3 seconds. I took it by one of the Advanced Auto parts stores and they did a diagnose check on the alternator, starter and battery. Everything at that moment, checked out fine. Alternator checked out good during regular operation and under loaded condition. Almost everything on the car is original except timing belt.
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2001 Honda Accord 4 cylinder... At 256K miles I had the battery and open doors, open trunk lights illuminate intermittently. Initially the lights came on for 1/2 mile. 150 miles later it was more like 20 miles on, off for a mile, on for 40 miles, off for 25 miles, on for 10 miles, and then off. A Honda dealer ( after the first 20 miles of battery light being on and 70 miles from home) replaced the battery and the lights came back on a mile down the road. I managed to get home. With engine running running battery voltage was 14.4 volts. The light stayed off for 30 miles the next day. AutoZone found no diagnostic codes. A mechanic told me that the battery light could be intermittent with a failing alternator. I changed the alternator (cracked case). The voltmeter again showed 14.4 volts with engine running. Will the car return to reliability?
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Out of nowhere my check engine light came on bought some oil thought it was low, and i just recently got an oil change. Checked my sparks and it was okay. Couple hours later my car began over heating With engine light still on, and my temperature gauges increased knew something was wrong, filled it with anti freeze to cool it down, continued driving and the issue continued. Bought me a knew sensor, I noticed it worked but did not fix the issue, my car continues to over heat, couple days later without driving it, this morning on my way to work it was really cold so my car did not overheat, but my check engine light began blinking and my vehicle began rattling from my house all the way to work, for about 9 miles. Whats wrong with it? Is it safe to drive back home after work.??
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I just bought this '93 Accord. Nice car, well-maintained and clean. Issue is the D4 transmission light on the dash does not light up when car is shifted into D4. The car takes off well, shifts through the gears well; however, the overdrive never kicks in. D4 is running the same as D3. What is my best route to remedy?
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I started my car a few weeks ago, and the check engine light came on and the S light on my dash kept blinking. Followed by a difficulty stepping on the gas pedal. I attempted the paperclip way of scanning my OBD1 scanner. When I used it, the check engine light went off, no S light blinking anymore, and the gas pedal worked great! I also changed out my VSS (vehicle speed sensor) but the light came on anyway, and my speedometer can't read at correct speeds. Could the engine light problem be because of misfiring due to spark plugs? I don't want to keep buying parts and stuff unless I'm 100% sure it will fix the issue.
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1993 accord my d4 light on the dash is flashing and it wont shift out of park....
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2008 honda accord coupe ex-l
So, I assisted my sister in finding my nephew a used car and everything looked great on the surface as well as mechanical. We get the car home and the SRS light comes on.. I started digging into why and find there is dirt dust all behind the dash and side panels around airbags in back and pretty much everywhere below the surface.
Digging into the service records I see they did have to replace a fender liner which might have been a port of entry for all the dirt and dust. Apparently the young driver was putting in mileage on dry dirt roads without a fender liner.
I did caution against buying this car previously, even before looking at it, because it was a teenage driver, there was a minor wreck into driver's door and repairs had to be made for him running up on a curb as well. But in their desperation for a car.. they asked me to check out the mechanics of it.. i did.. they looked good.. but I missed all this dirt dust and now i feel bad.
Anyways, how to go about cleaning out all this dirt dust behind the dash, and panels of the car? I worried if I leave it there, he will experience additional expensive electronic issues.
Was thinking of taking off some side panels and dash off, and using a vacuum with a brush head to try and get it.. I could use compressed air.. but perhaps that may be potentially harmful to other electronics and connections?
As for the SRS light, i was able to count the light flashes in dash to get code 8-3 off of the flashing SRS light and a 7-1 off the ABS light. Referencing those: "Internal Failure of SRS unit".
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I own an '01 Honda Accord LX with the ULEV engine and 178k on it. My CEL light came on about 6 months ago. Ran the scanner and it showed a P1457 (EVAP Leak). Waited until now when my inspection was due and expected it to be caused by the EVAP shut valve as I read that's often the cause of the problem with this code. Mechanic said that it can't pass inspection because of the OBD fail but that the diagnostic scanner showed everything functioning properly, including my assumption about the faulty shut valve.
He reset the code and said to drive it the 50 miles for the system to ready itself and bring it back in. As I've reset the code several times over the 6 months to see if it would self correct, I'm pretty confident it will come back on. My questions are, is it possible I've done damage to the onboard computer by not addressing the underlying problem 6 months ago? Are there emissions problems that are not checked by the diagnostic tool that the mechanic should be looking for?
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The red dash light for my parking brake stays on until I jiggle the brake handle, then it stays off until I re-start the car the next time and then it goes on again. Brake fluid is fine.
Appears to be a faulty switch attached to the handle. How do I fix this? Is it a major job? [it's a 1998 Honda Accord]
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Every morning when i leave to work my brake light begins to turn on, when i go over a bump or brake it shuts off. But only happens in the mornings when my car sits over night or long periods of time . What is the cause of this and how can it be replaced?
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'13 Accord Sport4k miles
These frigid WI temps are horrible. I did end up washing my car last weekend because it was full of salt. This morning I pressed the lock on my remote 2 times, nothing happened. Normally the horn sounds off once and the lights flash. I seen the lights flash, but there was no sound coming from the horn..........frozen locks? I came home after work and tried it again. Works fine now.
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On my 95 Honda Accord 4-door (>400K miles), every time the doors are locked, the servos click 25 to 60 times about once a second. Like a loud ticking clock. The doors are locked OK, but the clicks sound like the mechanism is wearing itself out. Is there an easy fix? It may be related to installation a few weeks ago of a new alarm system that included a remote control lock. I haven't had time to have the alarm company look at it.
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I have a 2011 honda accord and removed the brake fluid cap just fine to check it, in about October but I went to check it again today and the cap won't come off, I wonder if it's because of the cold weather? (36 f) It came off so easy last time I don't remember which way to turn it, and if I should press up or down when turning. The cap will rotate about a quarter inch either way, then won't go any farther. It hits these little white plastic pieces stopping it from going farther.
Here is a picture of what it looks like [URL] .... if you try to turn it left it gets caught on that little white plastic piece on the bottom and there is a similar piece stopping it from going right.
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So I have a 1998 Honda Accord EX V6. When I turn off the car all the lights in the Dash are on without the key and sometimes the car stays on without the key. The only way I can turn off the car is by pressing the brakes. Don't know what exactly it can be. Also the doors and the battery light in the dash will flash when rolling the windows up or down.
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My accord 1998 only start when it is warm (between 12:00 and 3:00). I changed the fuel pump, spark plugs, and fuse. but it is still the doing the same thing.
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'98 Regal LS. The car was parked with the engine running, and the doors locked spontaneously. Starting then, noticed that the fuel gauge and coolant temp gauge were pegged out.
Short somewhere? Could a bad BCM cause this?
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I have a 98 Honda Accord, automatic, with a 3.0 VTEC engine with 189,350 miles. It was diagnosed with cod P0401: EGR insufficient flow detected.I was told and apparently in the instructions it states the following to repair/fix the problem:
Unplug the EGR Port in the Intake, remove upper portion of Intake Manifold, drill EGR port, install Sleeve and replace EGR Valve. Instructions also indicated I need a EGR Pipe kit: 06175 P8L-A00 which contains a special tool to drill manifold and install Sleeve: Kit 07ZAO-P8AA000.
Is this a easy job? I'm also confused about needing the special tool (I believe it's a drill bit) and drilling the port. Are either one of these two Kits I mentioned really needed? What do you recommend I use to clean the port? I thought I could just clean the port (hole) and replace the manifold gasket.
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I am currently working on my accord and well have hit a bit of trouble nothing too bad. I was just wondering how do you retract the timing belt adjuster for the '98 honda accord.
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I have a 1998 Honda accord with 4 cyl. engine. Recently, the engine would stop at then end of the first block after 8 hours or longer of parking. I am very light on the gas pedal. I generally release the gas and let it roll for a couple of seconds before applying the brakes at the stop sign and during the time, the engine seem to throttle a bit then stops. After a restart and applying gas, it seem fine. What can be wrong with it?
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My 98 honda v6 accord shifts hard sometimes when going into and out of low gears. The transmission guy told me it had to do with the material that was on the clutches wearing off, dislodging, and clogging things. I have been driving the car for several years as is. Should I have the tranny rebuild or keep driving? Am I making matters worse by driving it as is?
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In the last 2 weeks my 98 Honda Accord has started to hesitate when you start it up in the morning (or the first time for the day). It only hesitates for 2-3 seconds and catches and starts up fine the rest of the day. I know it's not the battery the battery is less than 2 years old and the battery plugs have been replaced recently as well. There is no check engine light flashing or anything saying there is a problem. What it might be? I can clarify that it isn't making the noise you'd associate with the battery being dead (trust me, I've been in the car with a dead battery and will never forget it!).
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