Accord :: 1998 Honda EX V6 Stays On Without Key
Mar 26, 2012
So I have a 1998 Honda Accord EX V6. When I turn off the car all the lights in the Dash are on without the key and sometimes the car stays on without the key. The only way I can turn off the car is by pressing the brakes. Don't know what exactly it can be. Also the doors and the battery light in the dash will flash when rolling the windows up or down.
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My 2003 Honda Accord radio will turn on while the car keys are not in the car. It's been happening for months now. If I leave the radio powered on while the car is off it will drain the battery by the time I try to start it again in the morning. If I turn the radio off before the car keys are out I can still see the radio receiving power (the clock on the display lights up).
I had a different issue about a year ago where if the radio was on it would make really loud popping noise then go silent. I could usually get it back by turning it of an on several times. I it to a car audio shop who soldered the connections in the radio and I haven't had the problem since. After this I also had an iPod/iPhone adapter installed. It seems as though the issue with the radio staying on may have started somewhere around that time.
What could be causing this? The guy at the car audio shop says that he thinks the radio is just bad and that Honda had a huge problem with radios in Accords from that year. However I don't want to spend money to put a new radio in only to have the same issue after.
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The check engine light stays on. The hood of my car was not securely locked when I purchased it, I'm sure it's due to an accident because it's damaged. Can the hood be a reason the check engine light stays on..it does not blink.
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I have an 09 Accord (LX), one day the airbag light (SRS indicator) on the dash would stay on when driving, and the Seatbelt Reminder Indicator would detect the driver's seatbelt isn't engaged, even when it is.
A day later, the seatbelt indicator resumed normal operation, but the SRS light still remained on. I took it to two separate dealers and neither of them could connect to the SRS Control Unit to pull error codes from the onboard computer. They say I need to replace the SRS Control Unit to even begin troubleshooting this problem.
Can I replace my own SRS unit without accidentally triggering my airbags? Where do I order it? How do I make sure it is the correct part? Is it easy? Or I have a separate problem?
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My accord 1998 only start when it is warm (between 12:00 and 3:00). I changed the fuel pump, spark plugs, and fuse. but it is still the doing the same thing.
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I have a 98 Honda Accord, automatic, with a 3.0 VTEC engine with 189,350 miles. It was diagnosed with cod P0401: EGR insufficient flow detected.I was told and apparently in the instructions it states the following to repair/fix the problem:
Unplug the EGR Port in the Intake, remove upper portion of Intake Manifold, drill EGR port, install Sleeve and replace EGR Valve. Instructions also indicated I need a EGR Pipe kit: 06175 P8L-A00 which contains a special tool to drill manifold and install Sleeve: Kit 07ZAO-P8AA000.
Is this a easy job? I'm also confused about needing the special tool (I believe it's a drill bit) and drilling the port. Are either one of these two Kits I mentioned really needed? What do you recommend I use to clean the port? I thought I could just clean the port (hole) and replace the manifold gasket.
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I am currently working on my accord and well have hit a bit of trouble nothing too bad. I was just wondering how do you retract the timing belt adjuster for the '98 honda accord.
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I have a 1998 Honda accord with 4 cyl. engine. Recently, the engine would stop at then end of the first block after 8 hours or longer of parking. I am very light on the gas pedal. I generally release the gas and let it roll for a couple of seconds before applying the brakes at the stop sign and during the time, the engine seem to throttle a bit then stops. After a restart and applying gas, it seem fine. What can be wrong with it?
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My 98 honda v6 accord shifts hard sometimes when going into and out of low gears. The transmission guy told me it had to do with the material that was on the clutches wearing off, dislodging, and clogging things. I have been driving the car for several years as is. Should I have the tranny rebuild or keep driving? Am I making matters worse by driving it as is?
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In the last 2 weeks my 98 Honda Accord has started to hesitate when you start it up in the morning (or the first time for the day). It only hesitates for 2-3 seconds and catches and starts up fine the rest of the day. I know it's not the battery the battery is less than 2 years old and the battery plugs have been replaced recently as well. There is no check engine light flashing or anything saying there is a problem. What it might be? I can clarify that it isn't making the noise you'd associate with the battery being dead (trust me, I've been in the car with a dead battery and will never forget it!).
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Two years ago, I purchased a 1998 Honda Accord LX from a local dealer. I've had very few issues with it. However, shortly after I moved from Michigan to Florida, I began to notice a strange issue with my car. While the car is running and the engine is idling, I lose AC inside the car and the engine heat slowly begins to build.
The AC isn't shutting off, but instead blowing out warm air. The engine heat builds at a concerning enough rate, moving from a normal level to almost maxing out the gauge in the span of 20-30 minutes. This issue seems to auto-correct itself while the car is in motion, with the AC putting out nice, cool air and the engine heat staying at a normal level.
The car currently has about 269,000 Miles on it. I have been told the problem is likely a faulty thermostat, but I'd like a second opinion. What might be wrong with my car?
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My 93 previa recently went in for brakes, shocks, and tune up. 320,000 miles original owner. Afterwards it ran rough. The o2 sensor needed replacing. When I got it back it ran rough. Mechanic assured me it just needed a little time. It has the following issues:Left front would shudder like an out of balance tire between 50-70. Replaced tire. Now it hesitates and stutters at 70. Feels like its choking out. Won't climb hills without shifting a lot. No pick up. Gets 12 miles to the gallon instead of 20. First three minutes of driving are okay, after that it rides terrible. I have him looking at it now. He swears it is just because it's old.
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I have a 98 Honda Accord EX Coupe V6 with 175,000 miles. In the last 500 miles, I recently starting hearing a gurgling noise when I accelerate. It is rather faint and it goes away when I either let off the gas or my speed is constant. Also, I haven't noticed any appreciable loss of power or a decrease in gas mileage, but I am curious as to what the noise could be and if I need to have it serviced.
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Mechanic could not find any codes on my 98 Honda Accord... The car was intermittently hesitating upon acceleration... There were no leaks or no burning odor. He recommended replacing the transmission and failed to adhere to code 3361.1... The car performed the same way after the transmission was replaced and he "could not duplicate" the problem and therefore could not fix it... He did state the clutch were burnt on the car. After failing a smog check I brought the car to a different mechanic who changed the oxygen sensor and the car has been running fine.
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I have a 1998 Honda Accord, automatic with 179,000 miles. The malfunction indicator light came on so I had the car smoked and found that it needed a purge valve. I replaced the purge valve and smoked the car again which indicated the car still has a vapor leak and the malfunction light stayed on. The only place visible smoke is coming from is from the fuel filler neck (place where fuel or gas is put into the car) when the gas cap is off. Where the leak may be? My car is also getting horrible gas mileage. I was going to replace the fuel filter but I heard it was in the gas tank, is this right and is it replaceable? Would replacing the gas cap work for either the vapor leak or gas mileage?
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I have a 1998 Honda Accord that intermittently won't start. When the issue occurs the dashboard lights, radio, etc all work just fine, but the engine won't turn over (no clicking, no noise at all). It's standard vehicle, but I definitely have my foot all the way to the floor to depress the clutch safety switch. The issue only seems to occur when the car is warm (i.e. it never happens on the first start in the morning), although it's been known to happen even after 2hrs of cooling down. The issue used to only occur 1 out of 100 starts, but now it's getting closer to 1 out of 4 times. I'm able to get the car going by jump starting it, but that's getting old.
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Out of nowhere my check engine light came on bought some oil thought it was low, and i just recently got an oil change. Checked my sparks and it was okay. Couple hours later my car began over heating With engine light still on, and my temperature gauges increased knew something was wrong, filled it with anti freeze to cool it down, continued driving and the issue continued. Bought me a knew sensor, I noticed it worked but did not fix the issue, my car continues to over heat, couple days later without driving it, this morning on my way to work it was really cold so my car did not overheat, but my check engine light began blinking and my vehicle began rattling from my house all the way to work, for about 9 miles. Whats wrong with it? Is it safe to drive back home after work.??
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This seems to happen a lot when it gets really cold out. Started happening a few weeks ago. Sometimes if I notice the light starts to flicker on, at a stoplight I'll open the door, push down the rubber button that triggers the light, and shut the door. It'll usually stay off for a little bit.
I noticed that there's a little dent on the door where it presses against the button, and I'm wondering if that's a possible reason why this issue is happening.
I have a 1997 Honda Accord LX....
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I have a 98 Honda Accord in pretty good shape even though it has 340,000 miles on it. For the past month I have intermittently been having the dash idiot light that shows all 4 doors and the trunk lid is open -- coming on. In addition, the "brake" light that is just to the right of the blue "high beam" dash light, also comes on and the past week the "battery" light comes on. It also seems like the headlights slightly dim and maybe even the blower motor slows down just little. It started out lasting less than a second and now last maybe 2 or 3 seconds. I took it by one of the Advanced Auto parts stores and they did a diagnose check on the alternator, starter and battery. Everything at that moment, checked out fine. Alternator checked out good during regular operation and under loaded condition. Almost everything on the car is original except timing belt.
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"my Honda accord 98, is stick shift and recently it has been rattleting a bit when I switch to speed one. if I don't push the clutch it shakes and wants to almost turn off."
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Since yesterday the power door locks on my '98 Accord LX (Sedan) are not working. I noticed that it happened after I started the car and it died on me. I tried it again but this time with my foot on accelerator and it started fine. I started driving and then noticed the locks weren't operational. They were fine before this episode.
- When I press the power door lock button on driver or passenger side nothing happens (usually it locks all four doors)
- Manaul locking is fine
- When I lock the car with key it doesn't lock all the door (it only locks the door I'm at - driver or passenger). This is supposed to lock all doors too.
I looked at the interior fuse box on Passenger side and the door locks fuse looks ok (#12). I also swapped it with passenger side power window fuse and the window still worked so I guess it's fine. what I can look at next? I read the the actuator might be a problem (I don't know what it is but I'm willing to give it a shot). Looking at Honda Manual looks like there are multiple actuators (one per door I think) and it doesn't feel like everything would conk off together.
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