Accord :: 1994 Honda EX - Delayed Startup After Changing Transmission?
Sep 30, 2011
I changed the transmission (automatic) in a 94 Honda accord EX 4 cylinder and now it delays when starting. What I mean is if you stick the key in and try to start it normally it will just keep turning over. However if you wait about three seconds with the key in the ON posssition it will start right up like normal. Otherwise it drivers normally. I noticed the fuel pump isn't kicking on right away to prime the rail, but I didn't touch the fuel system when I changed the tranny out.
Transmission has the proper amount of OEM Honda fluid. CEL is on but I don't know how to check the codes on this OBD1 vehicle.
I am suspecting either a weak fuel pump or I missed something during installation. I double checked to make sure everything was plugged in properly on tranny.
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How difficult is changing the whole speedometer cluster on a 94 honda accord? Mine has been messed up since i got the car. It stays on 20mph when I turn on the car.
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We have a '94 Honda accord that the automatic transmission started "slipping" in a week ago. It has 240K and runs good otherwise. It was sliping after it warms and seemed to slip mainly while shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th while accelerating quickly. If you take it real easy on the gas it does not seem to slip much (the engine revs and the car does not seem to be accelerating, so I assume that means it's slipping - maybe not?).
I don't believe the auto trans fluid had been changed in over 100K+. The car sat for about 2 years and then I changed oil, replaced tires & battery and started using it with no probs until this (I've been using it for about a month now).
Today I changed the auto trans fluid (very dark/dirty but no real burn smell - and just a little metallic "shavings" on the magnetic drain plug), and drove the car fairly hard and heated everything up real good and it hardly slips at all now.
My questions are - with the fluid change making such a drastic improvement (at least for now), should I repeat the process and change it again? Should I try an aftermarket "miracle" additive to claims to prevent slipping? What about trying the Honda brand fluid vs. the "Autostore" brand Dexron VI that is recommended for Hondas requiring Dexron II (apparently they don't make D-II anymore)? Could it be something else - sensor, linkage, etc. (seems doubtful with the improvement with the fluid change?)?
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Honda Accord 1994 EX
Problem: over past two weeks (around 200 miles) car's acceleration became less and less effective. Need to rev car to higher and higher rpms to accelerate and shift into higher gears. Now it's hard to get up a hill, in 2nd gear at 5000 rpm.
I don't have a compression tester.
-Car starts fine. No pings.
-Exhaust blows fine and no smoke.
-Checked for vacuum hose leaks, none at all.
-Spark plugs look fine, there's no oil in spark plug wells.
-No check engine lights. '
-Oil on oil stick normal color.
But ...
-Recently coolant ran low. But engine temperature never shot up.
-Recently (over 2 weeks) oil went from full to near empty. Oil light didn't go on.Lights on my dash work (abs, brake, etc.)
Given loss of coolant and oil, I though it would be blown gasket. But spark plugs and wells look clean, and there's nothing whitish in oil. Maybe coolant and oil loss are due to running car harder to accelerate.
-If cat was clogged, would exhaust blow well? If I drill hole in front of cat, will it run normal? (don't worry, I'll get it changed, or fix it.)
-If fuel pump the problem, wouldn't I hear it on start up?
-If battery and/or battery cable bad, wouldn't car have trouble starting and revving up?
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I noticed my '94 accord LX slipping a bit mainly between 2nd and 3rd gear. I took it to my fairly trusty local (non-chain) mechanic who drove it a little and said he thought trans death was inevitable but he could not estimate when it would happen. Car has only 126K miles. He wanted to re-build it for $1400 (which I hear is reasonable but still an investment in a car this old.) The trans fluid is full (actually a little over the full line) bright red, clean smelling. We had the trans flushed 5 months ago but just found out they used Chevron ATF not Honda. I've read that only Honda fluid should be used, so I want to get that in there. Have not been driving it since the diagnosis. Do you think that there's any chance that switching to the Honda ATF will fix this and full trans rebuild won't be needed? Or if it's slipping is the trans already toast? I've heard some people advise against trans flushes in cars this old, to only drain and re-fill- is this true? If it does have a failing trans is there any way to estimate how long it will last? We are moving to New York in about 6 months and won't need a car, so I'd like to avoid sinking a ton of money on this car, or buying a new one! If it does need a re-build, do you think it's worth it in a car this old?
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I have a 1994 Honda Accord Ex i went an had a brake booster and brake master cylinder put on my car. About 3 to 4 days later my brakes locked up on me so i had the brakes bleed, a new brake line, and a need ABS pump put on and the brakes are still locking up what is causing this to happen?
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I have a '94 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder with ABS. The brakes work fine until I press the ac compressor button, then they rapidly begin to fade, letting the pedal go to the floor. When I turn off the ac compressor, the pedal gradually firms up back to normal. If it was the booster, it would be hard to brake, but it's not. If it was the master cylinder, the pedal would be soft all the time as the cups can not magically regenerate when the ac is off. What's the connection with the ac compressor.
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I have a 1994 Honda Accord LX station wagon.. The problem is that When I go to turn the car on it cranks but takes a few times times for it to start up (then runs perfect) or even sometimes it won't start up at all but just keeps turning..(this happens every time I turn the car off and go to turn the car on again) I have just recently taken it to a local mechanic and got the fuel injectors changed.. But still the same problem arises.. One day I also went to turn the car off and i took out the key an the car kept running, i had to put the key back in and switch the key back and forth once again for it to finally turn off).
1. Main fuel relay
2. Fuel pump
3. Clogged fuel line or
4. Ignition switch
This car is my main source of transportation as of now!!
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Have 1995 Honda Accord with apx. 231,000 miles and needs all new break lines under the car. Honda Dealer states 12 hours of labor at $100 per hour. Should I go elsewhere or sell the car for $600 to the parts guy at the dealership offering to buy it since I wont pay the cost at this point to fix the car? Gas lines are all fine underneath by the way - I asked them to look since they could go next I would assume.
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Had to replace battery, normally would push the sound button till it beeps---then hit #4 preset button to set hour,etc. Well, my sound button does not beep and my clock display just keeps flashing. This problem is on a 2006 Honda accord V6.
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I noticed the last two winters oil spots show up in the drive and its only when the temputare dips below 30 or so if any warmer its not there.
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Alright, car's overheating, but generally not at under ~55mph or so. When I hit the highway and accelerate, the thermostat climbs and hovers 3/4s of the way to red. But only sometimes. Sometimes, often when I'm going down a hill, it will swings down to normal. Once it's gotten hot, if I take it off the highway and am idling or driving in the 15-40mph range, the temp gauge will spike. But only sometimes. Sometimes I'll hear the fans kick in while it's idling/overheating. The temperature will go back to normal, and then rise again and stay there or spike (seemingly randomly). It's never reached all the way to the red, but it toes the line. And I take the darn thing into the shop and it refuses to overheat.
I've taken the radiator reservoir out and there seems to be green fluid (antifreeze/coolant?) in the water (have flushed it repeatedly)...and over the course of several weeks, the water level itself will go down. Both fans and the thermostat have been replaced in the last 6 months. Additionally, the timing belt and serpentine belt have been replaced within 5 months, as have affected pistons.((S/N--RPMs are really....low? ~2500 @ 75mph? but don't seem to correlate w/temperature. would they effect it?)
I took it into my shop and they said "we ran all the tests and couldn't find anything wrong." Cool? I'm at a loss..
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My 94 accord lx just received a replacement motor and tranny from jdm auto.its from a 95 odyssey. I had to swap throttle bodies, distributor... from the old one cuz the new one didn't have cruise control components, external coil... Now its seems rather gutless and it wont down shift when in d4 or d3 unless I come to complete stop, but sometimes it stays in 4th which sucks at an intersection! Also the shifter moves freely from first to neutral without pressing the button. and of course check engine light is on constantly. I've played with tranny cables fuses are good, reset ecu, fluid is new... every thing seems fine and the tranny that we took out down shifted fine so I must be missing something simple. timing?
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I bought my 1994 Accord LX new and am happy with it and the ~240K miles it has. Recently a very odd problem has emerged that is annoying...
Problem: The power to the radio cuts off now and then but only for a second. This of course always happens when I'm intensely listening to something like Car Talk. I first noticed it about 3 months ago while driving on the highway... whenever I tapped my brake peddle the radio would cut out. NOW the problem happens whenever it wants to...sometimes I go days without any problem, other times I can get a string of 5-10 failures right in a row and then it's "ok".
Here's the REALLY WEIRD thing... about 1:10 times when this happens BOTH the tachometer AND the speedometer cut out too! They drop to ZERO and then when the radio comes back on they pop back up to their proper readings... note nothing happens to the fuel or engine oil pressure gauges. The dashboard failures are what now have me worried.
What Have I done to address it? Nothing yet, not sure what to do... I cannot intentionally recreate the problem. Last time I took it to the mechanic for something else they looked at this but they couldn't recreate it. I'm afraid if I just ask someone to fix this it'll either cause a lot of hours to be racked up with no result or a lot of guesswork replacements.
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My 1994 Honda Accord has just lately had a start up problem. I try to start it, it turns over easily enough, but will not start. Have had a mechanic look at it two or three times but it started for him so he was unable to find the problem. If I keep trying, it sometimes will finally start, but the last time it happened it started to sound like it was running down the battery so I called the mechanic and set up an appt to have it checked. After several hours I tried it again and it started right up again so I canceled the appt. This has happened numerous times just lately and the mechanic cannot find the problem because for some reason it has eventually started each time. There seems to be no rhyme nor reason about why or when this happens and I never know when it is going to do this. I am to the point of hoping that it absolutely will NOT start at all just so the problem can be found.
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I have had my honda for a few months now and have had a few problems in that time. At first it started with the check engine light coming on when heated up but then my car began to randomly die while I'm driving down the road. Every time that it would die I was able to start it back up almost right after it died. Also when I come to a stop my temperature gauge will start to rise and when I turn the car off I can hear the fans continuing to run for about 10 mins. Now my car will drive until it heats up and then it will die and not start back up until it has cooled down. My dad told me that he thought that my main relay went bad but I replaced that and nothing has changed...
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I test-drove a 1994 Honda Accord with 140K today. Looking for reliable car for relative, and this was one of the better options, on paper at least, in the price range.It drove like a used car, but I was concerned about one thing: A ping when accelerating from low speed. It didn't do it constantly, but only when going from a standstill or slowdown back up to speed. The seller said he'd been told it was an issue with the catalytic converter. I've been told that a higher octane fuel will sometimes quell a ping in an engine with no knock sensor.Is this something I should be worried about? Is the high-octane rumor true? The car was otherwise very nicely maintained.
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In the last 2 weeks my 98 Honda Accord has started to hesitate when you start it up in the morning (or the first time for the day). It only hesitates for 2-3 seconds and catches and starts up fine the rest of the day. I know it's not the battery the battery is less than 2 years old and the battery plugs have been replaced recently as well. There is no check engine light flashing or anything saying there is a problem. What it might be? I can clarify that it isn't making the noise you'd associate with the battery being dead (trust me, I've been in the car with a dead battery and will never forget it!).
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My Accord has recently been stalling on start-up, and I'm trying to figure out if it's something I need to worry about. Here are more details:
It only happens sporadically (though more frequently recently), and only after the car is warmed up. The car starts up fine, but then a few seconds later the engine sputters and stalls. Second and third tries at starting it up are no different (still stalls). If I can get the car into gear and moving quickly enough (before it has a chance to stall), the car runs absolutely fine.
I took it to my regular mechanic and they, of course, were unable to reproduce the problem. They checked "everything" (including starter and fuel pump) and said it all tested "normal". It's otherwise running perfectly well.
My observation: the times when it stalls, it sounds/feels like the engine doesn't rev up enough to "catch" (non-technical explanation). I don't know a whole lot about cars, but this seems like a fuel pump issue, right? Maybe it's only acting up sporadically, which is why it tested normal at the shop?
An added mystery that probably doesn't have much to do with the problem, but that I find intriguing and would be perfect for Tom and Ray! 98% of the time, this happens when the car is parked in a parking garage. I can only remember 2 times that it's happened after being parked outside.
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Like a good boy scout, last week I changed the engine air and cabin filters in my 59K-mile 2007 Honda Accord.
Taking out the air filter, I saw the usual insects and dust in the housing and got out the shopvac to suck them out. But the hose was on the wrong port, and I ended up blowing the insects and dust everywhere. Augghhh! Into the intake manifold for sure, I'd bet. I connected the hose right, put it to the air intake, and prayed I was vacuuming all the dust I'd just blown in.
The next day, on the way to college, the car ran perfectly the first three miles. Then, a half mile from campus, the check engine light came on and the car began running badly. RPMs wouldn't increase even if the gas pedal was pressed. The speed couldn't be made to go above about 20 mph. The transmission, ordinarily smooth as silk, now clunked. Fortunately, I was able to reach the college parking lot. I parked the car and went to class, hoping the car would fix itself while I was gone.
Apparently it did. After the three hours I was in classes, the car started up just fine, and it drove home just fine. Except that the check engine light was still on.
At home, I used my OBD2 checker (bought five years ago but never until now even taken out of its packaging; love my Accord), saw a fault of P2101, and erased it. That made the check engine light go out. P2101 has to do with air/fuel, so it must be related to the air filter fiasco of yesterday.
By the way, there's a rattle from the glove compartment (which is lowered to replace the cabin filter). When the compartment door is open, the rattle goes away. Will troubleshoot this later. Am more concerned with being certain the check engine light doesn't come back. I don't want to go into limp mode on the highway, hours from home.
Two days later, I took advantage of a Sunday afternoon to try to blow/clean out the injectors and intake manifold. I put in a bottle of Techron and drove the car 45 miles, mostly on a nearby semi-rural highway. It has a 70 mph speed limit but at times traffic was doing 80. (Texas.) The car ran perfectly, both highway and city.
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My car keeps on shaking at times, sometimes it is perfect all day. If it is shaking and I come to a light it stops. I have been to several mechanics and they all say something different.
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