Accord :: 1991 Engine Surging At Idle In Park And Neutral From 1000 Up To 2400
Jun 4, 2014
1991 Honda Accord DX A/T A/C. The engine is surging/searching at idle in park and in neutral from 1000 up to 2400. There are no engine fault codes.
I have cleaned the IAC, adjusted the TPS, Removed/Cleaned/Re-installed the TB, No MAP problem. I also removed the "black box" and checked the cold idle control diaphragm as best I could. I cannot find any specs on testing this. When I apply vacuum to it via the center port on the bottom it holds the vacuum, but takes approx 5 seconds for the diaphragm to "pop" to its ambient state after releasing vacuum.
I have sprayed all possible vacuum hoses along with all intake gaskets to test for vacuum leaks.
I have attached a diagram of the black smog box that is mounted on the firewall. The cold idle diaphragm is labeled as 2. I also have concerns about that electrical vacuum solenoid labeled 27.
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My 2001 BMW 325Ci has an occasional "surging" idle problem. When coming to a stop or at idle, the engine will rev between 500 and 1000 rpm's. Sometimes it will correct the problem and idle normally, or keeps surging until it eventually stalls. When restarted it works fine. Tried fuel injector treatment, fuel stabilizer treatment, and replaced thermostat. Still surges about 50% of the time. Had it to a dealer, and computer says its running fine.
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My car is a 2001 honda accord v6. It sat for 3 winter months. When I go to turn it on in the morning, the car will rev while idling. Jumping between 1000 and 3000 rpms. Why this might be happening?
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The car is an '05 elantra, 97,000 miles, auto., car is new to me. First time on the freeway today, 30 miles @75-85 mph, at the end of the off ramp I could feel it surging, shift to neutral rpm's went to 1500, hoss the gas and back to normal. On the return trip off ramp, went to neutral, jab the gas, everything OK. I'm going to clean the throttle blade, check things, etc.
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I'm trying to find out what I need to check or replace to get my 2000 Excursion to idle at normal rpm's in park and neutral.
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My mechanic tells me I need the intake manifold gasket replaced (check engine light on, engine surging, running very rough). How much damage can I do to the car by doing this repair myself and screwing it up? I've done lots of repairs on my car before -- brake pads, rotors, replace oil pan. I also have a copy of the manufacturer's shop manual.
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I have a '98 F150 4.2l with 230k miles on it. A couple of days ago when starting, I noticed that the engine kept racing instead of idling down like it normally does and the weather here in Arkansas has approached the 80 degree mark. The engine also doesn't idle down when shifting (I have a manual tranny). Where to start? I don't have any codes stored other than two for bank 1 and bank 2 running lean but they popped up many miles ago. I'm thinking either a vacuum leak or throttle control. I checked the operation of the cable and the throttle valve and they appear to be fine. Maybe the idle air control?
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OK I know it's not a 6.0 or even a diesel. I had my Ford Expedition(2005) in to have rear main bearing seal, transfer case input shaft seal, etc, which included dropping the transmission. When we picked it up I noticed that it now shakes when in Park and Neutral when at idle. The shake cycles every 2 seconds or so, shakes for 2 seconds, smooths out for 2 seconds, shakes for 2 seconds, etc. There are no codes thrown, it runs smooth in gear running at interstate speeds and in town driving. They put the scanner on it, unbolted the transmission and re torqued them, and a bunch of other stuff. They are lost. I though maybe the torque converter wasn't in balance or something but they ruled that out.
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I have a 1991 Honda Accord with 280k miles on it.
Question: what would be reasons the engine dies when in operation? I had not noticed anything wrong with the car other than I noticed it may take the automatic transmission a little longer time to shift gears.
While I was on the road, i felt something happening under the hood and noticed the car was losing power. the battery and oil level lights went on and needed to pull the car to the side of the road for obvious reason!
The car was towed back to my house. During the ride back the guy who was towing the car said that the engine turned over when he turned on the ignition.
I did the same thing when I got home and the car started up just fine. Nothing else noticed. The oil level was at normal level. I drove the car a couple times around the block.
The engine is due for a tune up and there sometimes is some vibration. This car has been very reliable. But I obviously can not have situation where the engine dies when on the road!
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Several months ago some kind of sensor was replaced on my 1991 Honda Accord. This was the case where the fan would sometimes go on after the engine was turned off. And to turn off the fan it was sometimes necessary to turn on the ignition.
What led up to all this was that one time I was driving up a fairly steep incline to a park. When I turned the engine off that is when the fan turned itself on.
Well, I drove up to that park the other day and the same thing happened (after the whatever was replaced). One thing different though, I did detect a faint whiff of what smelled like burning rubber when I exited the car (to check on the fan).
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I've had my '05 3.0l TDi since last November and I've noticed a few times that when the engine is hot and its idling in park or neutral after a few seconds it can develop a bit of vibration. Apply some revs, even just a few, and it goes away. Let it idle again and it will come back. Stop the engine for a few minutes start again and its fine for a couple of months and then it'll pop up again. Its not some slight vibration, it s a proper big shudder. It reminds me of my '76 Land Rover and very unlike a rock solid Phaeton!
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I have a '94 E4OD trans in my '53 F100. It uses an analog MLPS for the gear selection indicator, Neutral Safety Switch, and Backup light.
My MLPS Neutral Safety Switch shows continuity in Neutral, but not in Park, I need to be able to energize the starter solenoid in both Park & Neutral.
Shouldn't the MLPS show continuity in both Park & Neutral?
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My car shakes pretty good when shutting off the car plus when stopped when in park or neutral. Bought this car used with 3k, so I am not original owner. I believe (without looking) that I own #3887.
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I have been experiencing a vibration in my car at highway speeds (50mph+). Vibration is only present when the engine is under load, IE, i am accelerating, maintaining highway speed, or climbing a hill. Vibration is not present if I put the car in neutral and rev the engine. Vibration initially seemed to come from the rear, but it now is present over the entire car, steering wheel, pedals, seats, dash, etc... The vibration is getting progressively worst and appears at lower speeds than when first noticed at 70k. Taken to the dealer then, did a wheel balance and alignment didn't fix the problem, unable to diagnose and said bring it back when it's worst (about 200$).
Now at 92k and running out of my 100k warranty. Taken back to the dealership, they told me to change catalytic converter (not under warranty) (75$diagnosis fee) and O2 censor (for 1000$), so I had a reputable mechanic in town do that (420$), problem still there. I took it back to the dealership, they said my cyl2 has a misfire, and to change plugs... so i had them do that (120$, 10%off, waived the diagnosis fee), of course... problem still there. They then suggested it was my snow tires, I replied it has been through 4 sets of tires (two snows, two summers, and all the alignments, balances, rotations associated with that)... problem still there... (and if it was tiring, it would vibrate at speed all the time, not just when you are giving the engine gas)...
I am bringing the car back to them this week, they are going to put a set of their tires on the car and see if it may be a wheel bearing... again, this does not seem right to me... if it's a bearing, wouldn't that be a condition present all the time, and even (or progressively worst) through speeds...
they told me they have checked the struts (my first guess) and they look OK, as well as the engine mounts (my second guess) look OK.
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What could cause this? I have 100k and I only notice this if in park or neutral at 1500rpms. It goes away before and after and it seems to drive very smoothly. I had a bad alternator and I just replaced it but the "new" one is making a high pitching ringing so I'm having the shop change that out for a new oem. Any chance it's the alternator or could this be something else. I have sea foamed the throttle body recently and cleaned the maf recently and changed the air filter. I didn't do plugs but they are do at 120k
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2002 Elantra engine is revving up to 3000 rpms when in neutral or park. I changed the Throttle Position sensor and it went right back to revving up. Code read P0121. What might be causing this? Seems like I get one thing fixed and then another code shows up..
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My 1998 Ford Explorer XLT v6 with about 233,000 miles on it has a bit of a problem. Infrequently, when I shift into reverse from park or neutral the engine dies. It restarts without issue. There are no strange noises or smells when this happens.
The transmission was rebuilt 10,000 miles ago by a reputable mechanic. Almost all of the 230k+ miles are highway miles. Each trip around 40 miles.
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I got a 87 Toyota Celica 1600 GT, with a TVIS 4A-GE engine in.
My problem: when i just start the engine cold, it revs to 2500 RPM, and stays there for 1-2 minuttes and then falling to about 1500 RPM, and when the engine is completely warm my idle is about 1000 RPM.
first i think that 2500 RPM cold is a bit to much, and i dont know what to do with it. but my biggest problem is when the engine is fully warmed up, and i rev it to lets say 3000 RPM and then lets the gas of, the engine falls to about 500 RPM sometimes it stalls but if it not stalls then it would slowly gain some RPM and then it goes up to 1000 RPM again.
How can i prevent the engine falling that much when i let the gas off? it's quite annoying when i drive the car and comes to a stop it sometimes stall.
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I have several problems with my 06 FEH maybe some of you had same issues. I have imported this car from new york in my country 1 month ago, this is first Ford for me. Love this car but there is some issues and want to figure them out.
1. seat heating is turning on without clicking on the button, but not always it's random. Often on passenger seat some time on driver side to. I try to disable fuse but it also for 4x4 so it's not an option.
2. My engine idle RPMs is always higher that 1000. Maybe it is normal but want to be sure.
3. car cannot climb the hills here is the video.... car is just doing nothing to climb no rev up no trying just stall in middle. In my country there is some roads with hills like this and I want to visit that places.
4. Cruise control is working random to maybe it will start speed control in one click or after 20 -s try.
5.Is there any way to see soc? factory unis is replaced in my car with aftermarket radio. I have elm327 and tourque pro but can't find that option.
6. When monitoring with obd water temperature is always lower then it was on my other cars. its around 158-176F on other cars it was 200F.
YouTube......
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The title says it all. I have no CEL.
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I have a 2003 Ford Focus with the Zetec 2L, 16 valve. When the car is warm and I put it in neutral or park and take my foot off of the brake it will occasionally shut off. Not stall, but shut off - as though I turned the key. This doesn't happen every time; it usually doesn't. I have no other drivability problems and there are no warning lights or engine codes. The ideas I have are:
- Vacuum/ brake booster leak
- MAF problem or dirty throttle body
- Something weird going on with the transmission shift interlock mechanism.
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