It's not working at all, like completely dead number 2 cylinder, when I take the wire off nothing changes.
Changed wires, new spark plugs, there is spark, thought may be injector, put injector from other cylinder, same thing. Lots of air coming from valve cover oil cap when I open it, is it normal?
No compression test yet. Oil looks ok,there is no antifreeze in it.
Accord 1990 EX-R
My dad's 97 dodge neon is showing a misfire in the number 4 cylinder. He replaced the spark plug but still getting that code and engine not running smooth. What other things could cause this? Engine has about 130,000 miles on it, had been running fine.
View 9 RepliesSo I dropped my prius off to get looked at for error code p0301 number 1 cylinder missfire. They ruled out Spark plugs, coils and fuel injector. What else is ther? Also could it be the battery or even gas?
View 12 Replies2006 PT Cruiser Touring Ed. The engine light came on 2 days ago, had it looked at today and the error code p0304 "cylinder number four misfire" was diagnosed. What causes that and what would need to be done to fix that problem?
View 9 RepliesI'm getting a P0305 error code (#5 cylinder misfire) on my wife's 2007 sonata. Wanted to know where cylinder # 5 is located. Also, it would be useful to know where all cylinders are located, for future reference.
View 9 RepliesI've had the plug wire for my #4 cylinder burn out twice in the last 6 months. The car started running like crap and threw a CEL, the code was for a number #4 cylinder misfire. When I pulled the wire it has obvious signs of being burned out, like white powder and burn spots near the base of the wire where it goes over the plug. The plug and coil both look normal. No issues with the other cylinders. What could cause it?
This is on my '05 Santa Fe, 2.7l, FWD auto, with 180k miles
1999 ranger 155k 3.0 flex fuel. 304 is misfire in cyl number 4... I replaced the plugs and wires and checked the coil. the compression in cyl 2, 4, 5, 6 and got 80-90 psi so they are consistent but consistently bad right, it may be my compression tester.
The #4 plug was spotless after running 5 min, the #5 plug had some black on it already. Its hard to tell but it seems I had fuel residue on the plugs on cyl 5 and 6 but none on 4? Whats next pulling the intake to get to the injector?
I have a 2006 Camry 4 cylinder. The bigger rubber hose coming out from the power steering fluid reservoir has been leaking for quite some time now. I've tried putting a second clamp on it which has worked but hasn't stopped the leak completely. As far as I understand, the big hose has a certain bend to it so I can't just get any rubber hose from an auto parts store and chug it in.
It is leaking all over the nearby surface:
I need to identify the part number for that power steering rubber hose so that I can replace it once and for all. Once the power steering fluid leaks out, my steering starts groaning whenever I turn it.
Having some idling issues. Pulled codes P0172 and P0304. Basically running rich on fuel bank 1 and misfire on cylinder number 4. My question is what is the locations of each...? From what I have read number 4 cylinder is closest to the drivers side and fuel bank 1 is on the passengers side. I have changed the MAF, plugs and checked the ignition coils. All looks to be good. I am guessing possibly fuel injector?
View 7 RepliesI purchased a 2003 VW Beetle Diesel and have compression leaking from the valve cover around the number 1 cylinder. It does not run or will barely run. Is this a common problem and what could cause this. i haven't tried anything yet.
View 2 RepliesMy father in law gave us a car to use so my husband can get back n forth to work. Recently it started dying on him while he was on the highway and we don't know whats wrong with it. His father told us its a brand new batter that was put in it before he gave it to us. The car is a 1990 Honda Accord. The radio already doesn't work so its always off. The car dies no matter if heat/air is on or off. I don't think it could be a battery problem. There's 2 lights that come on when it dies: battery and oil. We put oil in it. The weird thing is that after it dies, we put it in park and turn key in ignition to off position and then restart it and it starts right back up with no problem. We really don't know whats wrong with it but cant afford to take it to mechanics to tell us 100 other things wrong with it..
View 3 RepliesI have a 1990 Honda Accord that I'm having a problem with. When I turn the key to start the car, the car turns over and starts great, but when I let go of the key the car immediately dies. Before I actually push the key into position III to start the car, I've discovered that I can move the key in the range between positions II and III and get the indicator lights on the dash to go on and off, so clearly there is some sort of loose electrical connection. I've discovered that if I start the car and then quickly turn the key back a ways to the point where the connection seems to be good, I can keep the car from dying and then it runs fine. Does the diagnosis of a bad ignition cylinder/switch seem to be accurate for this problem? I just don't want to replace the wrong component(s).
View 1 RepliesI have been having some inconsistency with my transmission in my 2005 F350. I bought it used 2 months ago and have had the low/tow overdrive light blinking. a month ago I removed the pan and changed the filter in the transmission. I had a friend run the diagnostic test and found transmission solenoid code as well as both cat. converters as well as my Number 8 cylinder misfiring... I pulled the transmission pan and filter to find what appears to be 7 solenoids? Where to start?
View 1 RepliesI have this Accord I have replaced the starter, distributor, ECU, spark plugs and the ignitor and still can't get it to start. It turned off on me making a right turn and hasn't started since.
View 5 RepliesMy 1990 Honda Accord is stuck in "sport", and won't shift past second gear. The button isn't stuck, but the "S" light stays on.
View 3 RepliesI own a '90 Honda Accord and it constantly shakes, has poor acceleration and seems to use too much gas. I thought it was the catalytic converter and I installed a high flow cat. The fuel pump went out so I had that replaced. It shakes less since replacing the cat but I still see the gas gauge go down too low when I press on the gas and the car will stall and stop as I get to "E" when normally I was able to drive many miles past "E". Any guesses? I'm wondering if I need to replace the fuel pressure regulator.
View 6 RepliesI am swapping to a 6.0 trans cooler in my 7.3 and want to add the external filter as well. I looked through the tech folder and the link about the external filter doesn't seem to be working. I am just looking for part numbers of what everyone is using. Is the Magnafine as good as a spin on style filter?
View 11 RepliesI replaced the timing belt an waterpump at 262,000 miles and ever since the engine makes a loud low pitch noise that varies in pitch depending on the engine speed. I replaced the alternator and it didn't work. I don't know if the power steering pump, a/c compressor or something else is making this awful sound.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1990 volvo 240 dl and the gas gauge no longer works. Just wondering if there's anything I can do to fix it.
View 1 RepliesI started the car the other day and it was running really rough and engine light was on. I started pulling the spark plug wires and pulling #3 didn't make any difference in terms of decreasing performance where the others all did.
I've replaced the plug, and distributor cap. I've also confirmed with the plug out of the block that it is firing.
I'm not sure at this point what to look at next. This happened overnight, not gradually over time, and apart from running rough the engine isn't making any noises which based on sound, and how fast it happened doesn't make me think its a scoring/compression issue.
I have a 4cl- 2000 Honda Accord about 160,000 miles on it. I have been having a shaking problem with my engine when it starts up after warm. If I drive more then 20 minutes, stop my car, to say go run an errand, and then come back and turn it on, it shakes and sometimes stalls out. I notice that the RPMs don't go above 1000 and waiver below that. When I do get it going, I have to tap on the gas a bit to get it to regulate. On longer drives after I stop it, it won't start and have to leave it sit for about 20 min. and then get it started by tapping the gas.
The check engine light that did come on has been checked as a cylinder 2 misfire. Sometimes it will flash and sometimes it will not come on.
I have new wires and spark plugs. A 3 year old timing belt. No vacuum leaks or gas line leaks. (all been checked by a mechanic).