Accord :: 1988 - Large Puddle Of Tranny Fluid Under The Car
Sep 12, 2012
I have a 1988 accord LX with 225K miles. 2 or 3 days ago I noticed a very large puddle of tranny fluid under the car. Upon inspection, the fluid is coming out of the tranny case above the shift cable. The spot looks almost like something has punched through from the inside, but the car drives ok...
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Wife came home and said that her brake peddle went to the floor once. Truck is in the garage with a large leak of brake fluid on the ground. I ordered a new MC but not sure this is the issue. There is fluid on only the right side of the booster, all associated brake hoses and lines going into the ABS module. The module also has lots of brake fluid all over it. Looks like there has been a leak for a while. Only one flare nut coming from the MC was some what loose (I gave it about a quarter turn and it's tight now.
Booster has some rust on the front of it near the center of the MC bolt locations. Before I put this new MC on I want to be sure this is the issue. Do the ABS modules tend to leak OUT when they are failing? I see that's a common issue with the Hyundai but I don't see anything about fluid leaks externally.
The truck has about 180k miles on it. I was thinking of cleaning everything up the best I can adding some fluid and running it to see where the leak is coming from...
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1999 Olds Alero with 2.4 L engine...
Everyday when I back out of my parking spot, there is a large puddle of antifreeze under the car, mid point near the firewall. I have to add 1 liter of antifreeze a week/100 kms. I am thinking it is a "low pressure" leak, cause when it is running, there is no major spray noticeable. Weird. So I have done some reading and can only guess that it is my water pump that is shot.
After getting the estimate from the local garage of $ 700.00 (mostly labour) for a $ 100.00 water pump, I am going to tackle this one myself. Can't believe Oldsmobile did just a crazy thing like hiding the water pump so deep into the caverns on a 2.4L.
I am not overly concerned with this bigger puzzle, but want to be sure before I get it all apart and tie up the prime spot in the garage called the "wife's parking spot". Got to get it in and out quick. Will I need any specialty tools, for things like removing the timing gears or anything else that is goofy on this repair job.
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I have a large puddle of water under the spare tire. This happened a couple of months ago and I took the car to the dealership. They said it was a seam above the rear tail light that wasn't properly sealed. They re-sealed. I checked it every couple of weeks and no water but heavy rain over the past few days (car sitting) I decided to check again and there is more water than previously noticed. It looks like it's dripping down the side of the spare-wheel area.
First noticed at 1300KM now again @ 17000 KM Elantra 2013 GT GLS....
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I have a 2005 Prius. I came home the other day and parked the car in the garage. I came back out the next morning to find a large puddle of water in the garage and the car still dripping. The drip is from the PS front bumper area just ahead of the front PS wheel. This is not the typical AC water puddle; we have two Prius so I am familiar with that one. I searched here and found a few threads on water pump issue but the description did not quite match what I have going on.
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I have a 2002 F150 super cab with the 5.4 liter v8. I hit a large water puddle on my way to work Tuesday. I was going faster than I probably should have been. After hitting the puddle the truck lost power. It idles fine but as soon as I put it in gear it sputters and has no power. Also, the O/D drive light is now flashing. What might be going on with it.
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I have a 1997 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4 with the 4.6W and a 4R70W trans. For the past year is has been leaking trans fluid and has slowly got worse and worse. At first the truck would only leak at high speeds (when driving on the interstate for extended periods of time) and now It has gotten to the point where I am adding close to a quart of fluid a week. ( roughly about a quart every 300 miles!). I thought that it was the pan gasket leaking at first, so I flushed the trans fluid (dropped the pan and drained the TC and put on a new filter) put a new gasket on and torqued it all down and added some new Valvoline max life fluid. The first trip in the truck I noticed a puddle of fluid under the truck again.
The pan looked like it could have been a little warped, so I ordered a new pan and a new FoMoCo gasket (the one the came with the new filter was the cheap felt type). I thought I for sure had fixed the truck this time, but I drove it and once again it was still leaking. I checked all that I could before replacing the pan and gasket. I checked the trans cooler lines and fittings (no leaks) I pulled the inspection plug and it was dry (so I ruled out the front pump or TC leaking). The whole underside of the truck is covered with fluid so it is hard to pin point the leak, but most of the fluid drips down on the transmission cross member.
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i have a 1988 toyota camry that has 205000 on it and for some reason while driving the o/d will start to blink and the tranny will stop shifting and loce alot of power was wondering if it is a sensor or if i have to replace the tranny? the car is a 4 cly. with what toyota call the four speed deluxe
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I drove my car through a puddle, and right after that, my check engine light came on and it hesitates to accelerate. What could be the problem?
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I walked out to my car and there was a big puddle of tran fluid under driver side front. I think it might be from the drain plug.
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I have a 2009 F150 that when I came home from Cabo Monday, had a big puddle of fluid under the truck. I took it to Ford and they said it was some type of bolt on the tranny that is nationally backordered for who knows how long. They topped off my fluid and told me I would be good to go till the part comes in.
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I been having occasional problems starting my 1988 honda accord. It also sometimes dies when im stopped for too long. The problem has gotten worse more recently. The engine will rev and struggle to start. After it dies out i often have to let it sit a while before im able to start it. As i am trying to start it im smelling gasoline.
I thought for sure it was the fuel pump so i had it replaced and is still giving me problems. Today i had to give up and come back to it later. It is fuel injected... What the problem might be?
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I took my car in to the shop to get an oil change and fix a scraping noise from a rear brake (just a bent backing plate), and when I went to pick it up the guy basically advised me to avoid putting any more money into the car as it has severe corrosion on the engine cradle. He went on to tell me to start looking for a new car. Fairly inevitable given its long life (nearly 170k miles) and exposure to harsh winters. Basically most of the front suspension is also in pretty bad condition.Thing is, I'm a grad student who drives this thing about once a week for <5 miles on average, and I don't really want to deal with the hassle of replacing my car at the moment. I'd like to get some more input into how long I can keep safely driving it under these conditions.
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I just replaced the auto transmission in my 1988 accord and upon first restart the car will not idle. I has been sitting for about 6 months while I replaced the trans, but was a daily driver prior to that. The car initially starts fine when cold, but shortly after startup starts running very rich and dies. Restart after this requires the throttle pedal to be held down. Engine will start after some cranking - but will not run under 2500 RPM and is obviously very rich. I've rebuild carbs before so I'm thinking about picking up a rebuild kit - just wondering if there could be other parts of the fuel control system that might be at fault.
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I took care of a vacuum leak on this car but I still have an Idle issue on a cold start it doesn't wont to idle at all once I get it warmed up it idle's in park and Neutral fine as soon as I put into drive it want's to die I can keep it going by letting of the gas and then pushing the gas peddle again and take of quickly. Stopping at red lights I have to hurry and put it into neutral or it will die having the ac on makes it worse.
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Our 1988 full size Chevy van (Beauville) with TBI & 357 cubic inch motor has 72,000 original miles - used mostly for 2-6 mile trips - has always been garaged; body in great shape; runs well but lately have had to add radiator fluid: 1 qt. every 100 miles - no leak, but clear fluid coming out of tailpipe which doesn't look or taste like antifreeze - oil doesn't foam or show signs of water.
What it might be, cost of fixing and what might happen if I just keep adding fluid and don't do anything about it.
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I took the 88 out yesterday (3.0 with rebuilt transmission).. it looks like there is transmission fluid on the back (spots all over it).. I can only assume it's transmission fluid... I tried to wipe it off... but it was kind of a mist.. I assume the modulator should be checked? I'm not sure where it is or what it looks like though...
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This is a carburetor model of the 1988 Honda accord I fixed the vacuum leak, and it is not gummed up from ethenal I still have Idle issue where the car wants to die unless I keep it revved up and when up put it in drive it wants to stall out but i can keep it going by letting of the gas and them giving it more gas. Does the carbonated model have the Idle air control valve and a fast idle valve or is that just on the fuel injection engines. Because every one on line claims this is the areas to look at but I can not find them on my 88 Honda where they explain to find these valves.
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My girlfriend each week has to add at least a quart of tranny fluid. There are no apparent spots on the garage floor. The problem started last week when the engine light came on and she found herself sitting on the side of the road with her daughters in Nevada's 100+ heat.
I don't understand where the fluid could be going unless it leaks out when she is driving... but you would think that when she parks it, some would still drip off onto the floor and this is not the case.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Prius, with- yes-- 175k. It runs like a gem. I'm trying to decide if I should sell it now, or if the battery pack is likely to go for another 100k...
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My 94 accord lx just received a replacement motor and tranny from jdm auto.its from a 95 odyssey. I had to swap throttle bodies, distributor... from the old one cuz the new one didn't have cruise control components, external coil... Now its seems rather gutless and it wont down shift when in d4 or d3 unless I come to complete stop, but sometimes it stays in 4th which sucks at an intersection! Also the shifter moves freely from first to neutral without pressing the button. and of course check engine light is on constantly. I've played with tranny cables fuses are good, reset ecu, fluid is new... every thing seems fine and the tranny that we took out down shifted fine so I must be missing something simple. timing?
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