Accent RB (2012+) :: Will Not Idle - Engine Light Remaining On
Jul 25, 2014
My 2012 will not idle. The diagnostic computer reported bad CAM SHAFT SENSOR. Changed the sensor but still will not idle. Engine light remains on.
View 3 RepliesMy 2012 will not idle. The diagnostic computer reported bad CAM SHAFT SENSOR. Changed the sensor but still will not idle. Engine light remains on.
View 3 RepliesSometimes when I stand at idle, the engine seems to vibrate more than usual. I looked at the RPM gauge and it didn't move at all, it's at roughly 1000-1100 RPM when it occurs. Is it something I should show to the dealer?
View 14 RepliesMy 2001 Honda CR-V with 120,000 miles has been sending misfire codes for the past couple of weeks. I replaced the distributor rotor and cap, plugs (NGK's) and wires, and the light disappeared after a couple of driving cycles. Then, it came back on about a week later. I had it diagnosed at a shop for compression and everything was good. I had read about the valve issues so I had the valves adjusted.
The car seems to run without any hiccup at all, and its been over 150 miles since the valve adjustment but the engine light remains on with the misfire codes.
My check engine light just came on while driving home tonight. And there seems to be a weird rattly engine noise on the passenger side.
Just took the car to the mountains (800km round trip) all highway and got back Thursday night. Didn't drive yesterday, and today I took it out for a bit and it felt sort of loose... I don't know how else to explain it. Throttle didn't seem as responsive. I've only just hit the 6000km mark on it, and had the flash done at 4000km.
What in the world is wrong with my car? And now I can't even take it in til Tuesday because of the holiday.
Driving car today and the engine light came on, so before going home I stopped at local garage and had it checked. this is what they got- first code P1445, second code P1000. Car is a 2012 Hyundai Accent automatic hatchback with approx. 40,000 km. (25,000 miles) bought in May of 2012.
View 5 RepliesI got a 2012 Hyundai Accent SE manual 112000 mostly highway miles. For a month now I am getting the MIL on and P2191 code (System too lean at higher load bank1) after erasing the code it appeared again in 3-4 days. I replaced air filter check all valves and vacuum in air flow, changed to premium gas. Pipe that connected to the valve from EVAP system looks not damaged and valve works as intended. While changing spark plugs I noticed that all of them were quite charred. I am thinking to replace both O2 up/down stream sensors. Which not OEM sensors would be the best match for my Accent?
View 11 RepliesI love my car 2012 Hyundai Accent GLS but once it hit 60K miles, the engine light came on and it has been eating gas. I get up to 160 miles per tank now. My MP fluctuates from 12-25 MPG. I literally watch it jump when I fill up the car, then a few miles later, it drops again. Code P2196 always comes up. (stuck rich)
Dealer advised me to do fuel system flush.
Dealer replaced upstream o2 Sensor
Dealer replaced Check Valve
New Spark Plugs last Fall due to hearing really loud spark knocking... and also re-gapped last week. Now I can hear them slightly again.
Engine light just came back on after almost 200 miles.
Reading some other threads- apparently this seems to be a known issue for my car.
I am wondering if I should try replacing the downstream o2 sensor.... OR consider trading my car.
So sometime last week my check engine light came on. Took my 13 Accent to the dealership and they said the purge valve is to be replaced. Now my Accent pings when running 87 gas and I read that others (not necessarily Accent owners) who changed their purge valve noticed the pinging go away.
View 5 RepliesI just bought this car from the original owner. She didn't take that great of care of the car. First oil change was done at 8,000 miles for example. Basically if it was broken she would fix it, but didn't do much preventative maintenance.
I just replaced all 4 spark plugs and coils since one was misfiring and didn't want to have to go back in and replace one in another few months. Replaced the AC belt a few days ago since it was cracked and worn. All other belts are fine. I drove the car around for a few hours the next day and it ran great.
Today, the check engine light flashes and then stays on. The car is idling rough at stop lights and acceleration is poor. Previously, the light came on and it was the EVAP system. Not sure which component and I was told it isn't supposed to affect the way the car drives.
I have been experiencing some issues with my '06 rio5 (same engine as your hyundais). this forum is way more active than the kia forums, so figured id give it a shot here.
I am experiencing a rough idle at start up while the car is low on fuel (<1/4 tank). it idles rough for a few seconds, the check engine light flashes a bit, and then it runs fine.
The car is an '06 rio5 with approx 19k miles on it, five speed manual. Also, sometimes after refueling and it will just shut off while waiting at an intersection. Not sure whether these two issues are related, but thought i would mention it just in case they were.
I have rpm fluctuation when i put in idle after warming up the engine . I've done cleaning the throttle valve ,change the alternator and change battery.
View 41 RepliesSo I unplugged my front seats and the airbag fault light came on. When I hooked them back up the light remained on. Is there a trick to this that I am unaware of? I would really like to get this light off my dash asap.
View 6 RepliesI just picked up a 2014 Accent GLS and I have a question about it, this being my first Hyundai. When I start the car it has what to me is an unnaturally high idle noise. For the first minute or so it idles around 2000rpms then slowly works its way down. There is also a loud almost clicking noise from the engine. It has just under 3k miles on it so it's still a new engine. Is this something I should be concerned about or is it just the tenancy of this particular vehicle?
View 3 RepliesThree times in recent months, when I park my 2011 Sonata and shut off the engine, the radio remains on, the doors won't lock, and when I exit the vehicle, I hear a tone that tells me I have removed the key from the car. The headlights also stay on(see "smart-key-immobilizer-problem" thread, by SOZAR in this forum. My symptoms are exactly the same, including the fact that the problem goes away on its own). No code is posted, and the dealer can't reproduce the problem, so they won"t do anything about it. I have a case open with Hyundai, but no luck.
View 12 RepliesIm curious if this is normal or not. When I'm driving and I put my car into neutral to coast, the idle speed is at around 900rpm. When I come to a stop, the idle will drop to around 650rpm. Is this a design feature? I wish the rpm would drop more to conserve on gas while I'm coasting!
View 7 RepliesI bought my 2012 Accent a few months ago. I have been noticing that when its cold it has a bit of a rough idle. Nothing bad, no reving, but just a general mild shaking. No check engine light either. It happens in park, reverse, neutral, and drive. It stops and runs smooth after a few mins of driving. Since I bought it I have been using Top Tier gas and a bottle of gumout at oil change. Could it be just the way the engine is, since it is a small 4cyl? Like I said its not bad or affecting the way it drives, just seems strange to me.
View 6 RepliesWhile driving on the freeway my car started to surge as if it was starving in fuel. I had to press more gas to go the same speed. My gas tank was at a 1/4 full so I pulled into the gas station to fill in gas. As I was leaving my car could not accelerate while pressing the gas pedal. I could floor the gas and it would go only five miles an hour! The engine temp was okay, no engine lights, and no weird smells. I was fortunate to be close to home and slowly made it letting cars pass me on the side. I called the road side service who towed my car to my dealer. They checked for codes, ran fuel injector cleaner twice through the system, checked the fuel pump, and the pressure on the fuel system, no problems. The third day they gave me a Sonata for a loaner and I allowed the service manager to drive my car to see if the problem reappeared. No problems found and I picked up my car today. The problem hasn't reappeared yet but I am keeping track of any rough acceleration or idle.
View 11 RepliesGot my Accent on June 30th, has 8500km on it already and I love my car.
Recently, I've noticed a sound coming from the passenger side when stopped at lights or when I've just parked. Best description would be a bit like a crackle (liquidy/whistly type of sound). Only happens when the A/C/defogger is on.
It's not very noticeable, I only hear it when I don't have the radio on, but it's been bothering me. I found a few posts about a rattle, but from what I can remember, it's not really a rattle.
I just recently bought my wife a 2013 Accent GS HB to Drive with 11k on the odometer and we have noticed what I think is excessive vibration at idle and small changes in RPM (Not like Hunting but on a smaller scale). Is this normal? I have driven the Prius for about a year now and I just think I'm a little too sensitive going from an engine that doesn't run at idle or at stops to one that does. I read other owners having the same experience, and to me it feels like a possible motor mount. At speed it's fine but I was just curious. We love the car regardless but it's still something that we wonder is normal.
View 7 RepliesThe issue is: when I start the Prius, the TPMS light blinks for about a minute before remaining steady. I have tried to reset the TPMS via the button below the steering wheel (knee-or-so height), but have not been successful (tried with the ignition in "ON" status, tried with "ACC", and as last resort tried in "READY")
My question is the following: Since I do not know all the history of the vehicle, how can i tell if its a sensor, the button, or something in the TPMS or ECU that's at fault? When I picked it up, all of the tires were a little flat (about 25 PSI).
The ABS Module going bad resulting in the Brake Light and ABS Light remaining lit on the dash. Couple of questions:
1. Any preferences between using Module Master vs. ABS Fixer to get my module re-built?
2. MM told me to get the OEM from GM for confirmation. ABS Fixer told me to take it to a mechanic to see codes (1. Pump Running Failure or 2. CO265). I'm little leary that MM didn't tell me to do that and just assumed that the ABS was broken and I should just remove it and send it in. Who's right?
3. Also a little leary on trying to remove this myself. My unit is under driver door on top of the brake lines. Is it a difficult job (I can handle most things with good pictures and instructions) or should I take it in to local mechanic and have him remove it to send in?