Accent RB (2012+) :: Two Loud Bangs On The Engine Then Car Shut Down
Jan 28, 2014
Battery died. Got jump start but the guy crossed the jump cables. When positioned the cables correctly , the vehicle started normal but during the drive, heard two loud bangs on the engine; then the car shut down. Towed car to the dealer and they replaced the battery and the master fuse. The dealer rep. told me that the ABS light was still ON. Two days later I took the car from the dealer with The ABS, tire, BRAKE, EPS, skid, and engine lights ON and the steering is hard as well.
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Yesterday afternoon after warming up (car still in park) the engine shut down was very rough. I heard a quick string of maybe 5 or 8 loud bangs under the hood. Sounds like something got loose and banging inside the engine compartment and ready to fall off at any moment. This morning it was just a bit rough but not nearly as scary. Other than that the car seems to work fine.
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I have a new problem that I only discovered a few days ago. As I come to a stop at a traffic light, turning out of somewhere or whatever if I give the car a little more gas than normal not that I punch it or anything from a stop the car bogs down and bangs a little rough like I was rear ended. The car is in drive when it happens. Its just fine any other time. I was told it could be as simple as a bad tps or as bad as a defective torque converter or tranny. Its a 2005 gls hatchback with the 1.8L. also, the engine has been running a little rough recently too if that could have anything to do with it. No warning lights are on either.
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I recently bought my accent just last month and now it has some issues. Up until last night, my car and AC was running just fine. I drove to the mall and then I started up my car. I began to drive and seconds later, I heard a loud sound. Almost like a card in the spokes of a bike, but it was the AC. I turned off the AC and decided to look at it when I got home. I got to a stop sign and turned on the AC, just to make sure it was that making the sound. It was, and my car stalled from turning it on. This morning as I was driving to work, again just to make sure it wasn't a fluke, I turned on the AC and my car stalled again. It turns on with no issue after, but I am concerned about the stalling. I am going to check the filters when I am off.
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I have a 2012 accent, while I drive this loud squealing happens. My car is under warranty but the techs have to hear the noise to do anything.
At 55mph the squealing gets so loud my music can't cover the noise. Around 70mph it goes away (still can hear slightly). When I come to a stop it keeps squeaking for few seconds then stops.
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I have a 2012 Accent with about 83,000km. Back in the summer, I'd noticed an issue with it squealing when I first started driving it after it had been sat overnight or any extended period of time. After 3 trips to the dealership, they finally determined it was the serpentine belt and replaced it which did work. However, now a couple months since that, the noice is back and worse than ever. This is how every morning starts with the car now:
Reverse off the drive, press on breaks and hear a groan as I do so but no squeal. Adjust to 'drive' and accelerate and instantly hear a very high pitched squealing which continues until either a minute or so into driving or I drive faster than 50km/h, whichever comes first.
The level of noise it's making now is becoming unbearable. It's embarrassing and I'm worried something is seriously wrong. Just my luck too, the warranty ran out on the 18th of this month. I could probably catch a recording of the noise if needed.
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Ive got a 2013 Accent with 16,000km on it. It has an automatic transmission. The noise is when i pass from R to D, or P to D. It is an intermittent noise, so it does not do it all the time. But when it does, it makes a loud "bang" that can be easily heard and felt in the floor. Ive had it checked by the dealer, but it never does it when its in the shop.
I always let the idle go down before shifting into gear and even if i hold the brake hard to change gears it does it anyway. It doesnt matter if the trans is cold or hot. And no, i never change gears when the car is still rolling, always when i have stopped completely.
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My bad struts/shocks have allowed my tires we wear weird and now I sound like a jacked up truck with mud tires going down the road! I'm going to replace the struts and shocks in my car but do you think I can just keep riding on the tires as they still have a ton of tread on them? I can deal with the noise until they are ready to be changed but was just wondering if that can cause any other issue?
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I installed the TurboKits CAI kit a few weeks ago. Installation went smoothly, and the latest kit has a modification to the box that fits our Accent's air snorkel. On cars with automatic transmissions, I had to cut out a notch from the bottom of the box to clear the transmission, but I doubt that this affects the air flow to the filter.
However, I have a big problem with the sound. The transmission often shifts at very low RPMs, and the CAI makes a very loud burble when this occurs. If I shift into a lower gear using the semi-manual mode, then the sound goes away. I realize that CAIs make a louder sound when you put your foot into it, but I find the sound a little over-the-top (especially considering that when the sound comes on, the engine is producing very little power at this part of the power band).
So, it's not really a problem with the CAI itself, more with the car's TCU. Unfortunately, it's too annoying for me, so I'll be reverting back to the original air intake system, and selling the TurboKits CAI.
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Lately almost every morning my brakes have been seized. After releasing the parking brake the car won't budge without a bit of gas and a loud BANG from all four wheels as they become unstuck. And I don't mean a small bang, it sounds like someone whacked the wheel with a sledgehammer. It has been cold, snowy, icy, wet, and very salty here lately, but the car is parked in an underground garage overnight where the temperature is above freezing.
After becoming unstuck the brakes are noisy and very rough. They'll also re-seize at each stoplight, but with just a small bang. This slowly gets better as I use them, until the next time. Is this normal?
I can't imagine it's good for the health of the brakes for this to be happening. I've heard of this happening if a car is left sitting in wet conditions for a couple weeks, but only after 12 hours, and again at each light? I also had the dealer take apart and clean the brakes about 4 months ago.
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I was driving and heard a loud SNAP and now there is a constant sound of wind like a fan on high.
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I have a Prius PIP. When warmed up after driving several miles, the engine does not shut off when stopped . This happens in the ECO mode. Any solutions?
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The EMS service in the county next to ours lost one of it's new trucks for a few days on Tuesday. While going on a call, the engine made a tapping sound for only a few seconds, then a loud pop and shut off. Ford dealer went and picked it up and took it in for evaluation. VERDICT: Broken rod and cracked block. I have to say, this is the first I've heard of a 6.7L having a problem like this in our area.
Ford was really interested in this engine, as a new one is already on the way and the old one is to be shipped back for complete breakdown. So far, the Director and County Manager have been impressed with Ford's response to this problem. Dealer has told them the truck should be ready by the middle to end of next week. If I hear anything else, I will let you know. Any engine can break at any time, I'm just glad they are moving quickly to rectify the situation.
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This just started last night. 2012 e ltd goes "pfft" 3 times after shut off. Sounds like 3 small back fires about 2 seconds after I shut off engine. Very soft sound. The third one is not quite as loud as the first two, and if the door isn't open, you can't hear it. Seems to be coming from under the engine cover, near the throttle body.
Let me add the mileage has dropped from about 26.9 in town to 23.6.
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My wife had her car go off today while driving. Prior to this happening, she had switched off the engine while in a gas station, with the gear in D. After driving about 13kms more, the car goes off while in motion and doesn't restart immediately. When it finally does, it shudders until finally stabilizing. Could it possibly be due to the single act of switching off while in D gear? The car is a 2013 accent GLS.
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Of all the manual transmission gasoline engine cars/trucks I've driven before, RB Accent has the least amount of engine braking regardless of engine RPM. Did Hyundai program throttle to stay open while gas pedal is off for smoother driving?
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i recently changed my engine oil and filter from carquest brand to quaker state and about 500 miles later, i started having some issues like, rough idle and loud ticking and bottom engine noise. is that just a coincidence or any problems with this oil? 1.6L D.O.H.C.
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Ok, I am new to the Tiguan but not new to VW engines. For the last 11 years I am driving a 1.8T and I test drove the newer GTIs and Audis with the 2.0T. But with my 2012 Tiguan S manual I find the engine to be a little loud and rough sounding. Especially under heavy load it more reminds me of a diesel than a 4 banger turbo. Now, is this this normal or is it just my engine?
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I recently got a 2013 Hyundai Accent and am wondering about what a 'normal' running engine sounds like. (it sounds way different than my '98' Elantra) It drives smooth but if I drive slow , it almost sounds like an up-down or rotating engine sound (up and down swell?) Also, when it's idling it sounds like the computer is always adjusting it?? Or something like that. Just want to make sure mine in fine. (84,000km on it.)
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I have an accent rb 2012 with 243215 km in its storyteller I used the total synthetic 10w40 oil and I noticed that my engine Consumes oil with a drain was another missing 0.7 liter I roll with a 8000 km oil change , this is normal or not !!
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I drives grand Avega (new accent). I had a problem on my car. on instrument cluster there were no indication P,N,D,R and speedometer didn't indicate. Engine able to start normally but can't accelerate it seems like A/T transmit ion on higher shift.
Before that happened I installed a LED for additional lamp on door and I use /jumper a power from behind of fuse box.
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