Accent RB (2012+) :: Transmission Often Shifts At Very Low RPMs And CAI Makes Loud Burble
May 12, 2016
I installed the TurboKits CAI kit a few weeks ago. Installation went smoothly, and the latest kit has a modification to the box that fits our Accent's air snorkel. On cars with automatic transmissions, I had to cut out a notch from the bottom of the box to clear the transmission, but I doubt that this affects the air flow to the filter.
However, I have a big problem with the sound. The transmission often shifts at very low RPMs, and the CAI makes a very loud burble when this occurs. If I shift into a lower gear using the semi-manual mode, then the sound goes away. I realize that CAIs make a louder sound when you put your foot into it, but I find the sound a little over-the-top (especially considering that when the sound comes on, the engine is producing very little power at this part of the power band).
So, it's not really a problem with the CAI itself, more with the car's TCU. Unfortunately, it's too annoying for me, so I'll be reverting back to the original air intake system, and selling the TurboKits CAI.
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Ive got a 2013 Accent with 16,000km on it. It has an automatic transmission. The noise is when i pass from R to D, or P to D. It is an intermittent noise, so it does not do it all the time. But when it does, it makes a loud "bang" that can be easily heard and felt in the floor. Ive had it checked by the dealer, but it never does it when its in the shop.
I always let the idle go down before shifting into gear and even if i hold the brake hard to change gears it does it anyway. It doesnt matter if the trans is cold or hot. And no, i never change gears when the car is still rolling, always when i have stopped completely.
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this has been an outstanding van, quite reliable. it has about 115,000 miles on it. Recently, I've noticed that the transmission makes a 'tapping' noise when it shifts or downshifts. every gear has that same slight 'tap'. the tranny shifts fine, smooth, but this sound worries me a bit. any chance this could be a u-joint issue?
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So I just wanted to ask 2 things.. Am I the only person who purposely shifts at certain rpms from 1st-2nd just to hear the burble/popping out of the exhaust.. I hold it around 3k and the shift and let off the gas and it's a Orchestra of amazing noises that are Oh so addicting. Secondly, are there any negatives to doing this... Or that sometimes I hear the loud thud/pop when slowing down but not every time... What is the true cause of these glorious noises.
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At the beginning December I put my brand new winter tires (general altimax arctics) on the factory steelies and put them on the car gearing up for the snow. Not to long after the install I notice that I was getting a very strong engine vibration starting at 3,000 rpms and it stopped around 3,100 rpms no matter what gear I was in. At first I though it maybe just the cold affecting the engine. Well...
Last week I put my summer rims and tires back on for the 1,600 mile trip to MO and back, and like magic, no more heavy vibrations. Smooth acceleration throughout the normal driving rpm range. I just changed the oil and tranny fluids Tuesday after we got back and with the warmer weather the car is running smooth as silk. Still an awesome car with awesome mileage and couldn't be happier.
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Truck is 04 supercrew with 5.4 and 140,000 miles. I have the typical shutter when cruising 55 - 60 and just ease on the throttle to pass someone. I chalked that up to the torque converter unlocking, if I punch it instead of easing into it, it will not shutter. As of yesterday, it acts like the converter is going to full lock up almost immediately. It will bang when it shifts and rpm's drop to lock up range. A few times it has killed the engine when I shift into D. No codes at all, I removed the programmer and installed the stock tune, no change, unhooked battery, no change, fluid is good, and twice after leaving stop signs it worked perfect until the next stop. I believe that it is an electrical control problem.
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My 2011 accent hatch makes a coo like a dove when I turn it off sometimes and it sounds like it's coming from the boot. I actually did open it to look for a bird one day. It's a diesel, and I did have a problem with algae in the fuel which was half fixed..
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Just started yesterday. Transmission makes a loud clicking noise when put into reverse or drive, once car is driving it shifts fine throughtout the gears. Only happens when car is started up everytime
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A friend of mine visited from California and the transmission on his 04' Yukon is making a strange noise that no mechanics can figure out. Prepare for some "sound effects"...........
He said that as he is going down a mountain in high gear, or overdrive, he takes his foot off the pedal and the transmission makes a loud "Zzzzzzzzzzzz" noise. It does not do it in any other gear, only overdrive. Also, it only makes the sound if he is going below 55 MPH.
What may be causing this noise?
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I have a 1996 bmw z3 and theres bunch of problems with itone the transmission makes makes a loud noise when switching gears usually first, also you press the gas and it takes couple seconds for the car to accelerate.also when foot is on the brake the car will surge forward or accelerate i was told by bmw that the value cover gasket needs to be replaced cause its leaking oil the air mass meter needs to be replaced i was told by one mechanic this could be why the transmission is having problems or it could be the transmission needs to be replaced ~ any truth to this that the air mass meter could be causing problems with the tranny?? also the os sensor needs to be replaced the check engine light is on....so my question is that could all of these problems be causing transmission issues. There are other problems as well including power issues with the battery, stalling mostly because i havent been driving it also the ac doesnt work but heat does.
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I have 99 f350 v10 4x4 and trans shifts great under light rpms but 2-3 shifts very hard. At wide open from about 35 mph it will shift down and take off like a bullet but wont shift until I lift my foot and then it bangs hard from 2-3. All other gears are smooth. I did some searching and have found some threads saying it could be an accumulator spring that is broken? Truck has 115,000 miles on it. love the truck but want to fix this before it does some damage.
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I have a '06 Mercury Mountaineer, right over 100,000 miles. For the past few months the car has started to make a sound and even produce an "clunk" that I can feel when I am slowing down to come to a stop. It only happens when I slow down to around 3-4mph or slower. The transmission has only around 10,000 miles on it. What could be causing this?
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2008 manual gs 38000, with the ac turned on, upon accelerating, at different rpms, I get a quick loud squeak, and engine bogs down for a second. The engine has always hesitated upon acceleration with ac since i got it, meaning it'll get going and after 2 or three rpms, it'll bog for a quick second, ive asked dealer about it every time i take it in, and they always say its normal.
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I've always wondered why the transmission automatically shirts to 4th gear when I switch to sport mode! Is this normal??? It's an i4
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I've got a 2012 GLS manual with about 400 miles that now has a noise that concerns me. At just over 1500 rpms there is a rattling noise that sounds like its coming from the rear and underneath the vehicle. It sounds like metal vibrating. I think it could be the exhaust but I am not sure. It didn't do it on the test drive and it is fairly intermittent.
What it could be and if it might be normal? Should I take it in and get it checked out or would that be a waste of time?
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Im curious if this is normal or not. When I'm driving and I put my car into neutral to coast, the idle speed is at around 900rpm. When I come to a stop, the idle will drop to around 650rpm. Is this a design feature? I wish the rpm would drop more to conserve on gas while I'm coasting!
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I recently bought my accent just last month and now it has some issues. Up until last night, my car and AC was running just fine. I drove to the mall and then I started up my car. I began to drive and seconds later, I heard a loud sound. Almost like a card in the spokes of a bike, but it was the AC. I turned off the AC and decided to look at it when I got home. I got to a stop sign and turned on the AC, just to make sure it was that making the sound. It was, and my car stalled from turning it on. This morning as I was driving to work, again just to make sure it wasn't a fluke, I turned on the AC and my car stalled again. It turns on with no issue after, but I am concerned about the stalling. I am going to check the filters when I am off.
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I have a 2012 accent, while I drive this loud squealing happens. My car is under warranty but the techs have to hear the noise to do anything.
At 55mph the squealing gets so loud my music can't cover the noise. Around 70mph it goes away (still can hear slightly). When I come to a stop it keeps squeaking for few seconds then stops.
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I have a 2012 Accent with about 83,000km. Back in the summer, I'd noticed an issue with it squealing when I first started driving it after it had been sat overnight or any extended period of time. After 3 trips to the dealership, they finally determined it was the serpentine belt and replaced it which did work. However, now a couple months since that, the noice is back and worse than ever. This is how every morning starts with the car now:
Reverse off the drive, press on breaks and hear a groan as I do so but no squeal. Adjust to 'drive' and accelerate and instantly hear a very high pitched squealing which continues until either a minute or so into driving or I drive faster than 50km/h, whichever comes first.
The level of noise it's making now is becoming unbearable. It's embarrassing and I'm worried something is seriously wrong. Just my luck too, the warranty ran out on the 18th of this month. I could probably catch a recording of the noise if needed.
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I just bought a 2012 hyundia accent automatic two months ago with 92,000 miles on it. I put everything i had down on it so now I don't have a lot for warranty co-pay or anything. After two weeks of owning it i got a P0420 code and a light tapping noise. Well i was going to work (i drive up and down mountains) and when i headed up an incline my rpms jumped from three to five and lost all speed. I pulled into rest stop and was freaking out. Anyway after about an our of me looking i decided to just shake my car back and forth. I got in and pulled back onto interstate and the car was fine..except for a baffled sound now with light tapping. I cant figure why after it cooled it ran ok. Makes me wonder if i had bad gas or something. Well fast forward one month and now i am throwing P420, P0011, P0326,and using one quart of oil every 300 miles. I have done the oil change, injector cleaner, airfilter. I am gonna change the pcv valve today and see if that works.
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Battery died. Got jump start but the guy crossed the jump cables. When positioned the cables correctly , the vehicle started normal but during the drive, heard two loud bangs on the engine; then the car shut down. Towed car to the dealer and they replaced the battery and the master fuse. The dealer rep. told me that the ABS light was still ON. Two days later I took the car from the dealer with The ABS, tire, BRAKE, EPS, skid, and engine lights ON and the steering is hard as well.
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