Accent RB (2012+) :: Transmission Lever And Manual A/C Lights Not Working
Mar 29, 2015
After lurking through the site and grabbing a hold off a copy of the RB's wiring diagram, I thought I'd put my basic electronics to good use. I managed to replace the stock alarm that came with my unit to a Passive Keyless Entry (PKE) with Start/Stop button.
After all the wirings, I managed to get it to work with one minor glitch: the instrument lights for the transmission level and manual A/C won't turn on as it used to whenever I turn on my park lights / head lights. I do *think* that it's still wired as the light for the air circulation comes off when I turn on the headlight knob. I also tried to re-insert the M17 ignition switch to see if that's the cause, but the lights still won't come on. Note that the reason the M17 ignition switch was removed is because I don't want the key (now cut and covered by the push start / stop button) to trigger anything when it's turned. I only need it there now just to disable the steering wheel lock.
Where I should start checking? I'm hoping it's just a busted fuse somewhere, but if I need to tap these instrument lights to another power source in replacement of whatever the ignition switch was originally used for.
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my 2002 Hyundai accent with 1.6 engine and the manual transmission has a problem in that where the axle shaft goes into the transmission is very loose. the problem is in the transmission, not the axel. Is there a bearing in the transmission for this. Or is there something else that could do it.
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My automatic gearbox lever lights went out, the ones that say P R N D 2 L no longer light up, im not sure if its a fuse or something but I can't find the fuse for it anyways.
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She's got a 2013 RB GLS.
In very cold weather, we're talking around -15c (5f) or colder the car has serious trouble going into first gear or any gear.
The car starts fine, we even have let it warm up so the engine temp is fully warmed up.
As soon as we put the car into first and release the clutch, the car immediately stalls. It's also difficult to get into first gear, as it's locked out and takes repeated attempts to get into first, just to have it stall when the clutch is released.
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I have a 2002 Accent with a manual transmission with just over 100K. It has for some time had a low whine, which is getting worse. Not wheel bearings. The whine increases with speed, and seems a little louder when decelerating. Makes the sound in every gear and when in neutral (coasting at speed). Brought it into a mechanic and he thought bearings in the transmission (though I don't know why it would make the same sound when in neutral . . .). Shifts through all of the gears fine, no other odd sounds. Can't find any information out there that sounds like my situation.
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I have a 2010 accent blue model with stick shift. been fine for 50k miles. Lately i have noticed an issue where i am in first gear and then when i push clutch in to go into second, the lever won't budge. it does eventually go in but it just isn't like it used to be. it happens say about 25% of the time. Since at higher rpms it won't do it but normal rpms it will.
Also, i just had a new short block installed, perhaps something is binding? If I sit in the car, stopped, i can shift into and out of all the gears perfectly. Maybe my 1st gear synchros are going?
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I have the 12 Accent GL Auto, I have about 161,000 km, and recently say 3 months I've been hearing/feeling this click click noise come from under the car whenever I am in "manual" mode in 1st gear coming from a stop, now I`m 99% sure its not the brakes releasing because I just replaced both my caliper's in the rear and pads and rotors all the way around, And I know this sound because I've had the problem (twice) were my brakes stick so I'm very familiar with that sound this is something different, I want to say transmission because it only does this in 1st gear manual mode, but i know where the transmission is on this car, and this sound isn't coming from where the transmission is, more like under the firewall ( where the trans would be on a RWD car).
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I have a 2012 Cruze with a manual transmission. I have 43000 miles. When I down shift into 2nd gear I get a whining noise from under the car. I can shift it with no issues and no noise but when down shifting or turning in 2nd gear it whines.
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Just purchased a 2009 Matrix XRS Manual transmission with 67,000 miles on it. I can't get the VSC Off and Traction lights on the panel to go out.
During our test drive, I had turned the system on and off to make sure it was working, and didn't seem to have any trouble with it.
I went to have it inspected yesterday. During the test, they hook up to the ODBII port to check emissions. The tech had trouble getting it connected the first time, saying the connection was going in and out. Eventually, they were able to get it connected properly and passed the inspection.
After they pulled the car out of the bay, the VSC Off and Traction lights were solid on, and they have been every time I've started the car since. Checking the manual, all I should have to do to turn the system back on is press the traction button, but that doesn't seem to be working at all. I also tried holding it down for 30 seconds or so with no luck.
The lights aren't flashing, so I don't think this is an error, I'm wondering if the computer got confused somehow with the ODBII port issues.
Stuff I've tried:
1. Followed these instructions for the Highlander Hybrid thinking maybe Toyotas will generally do this. That just caused most of the lights to flash on the panel and didn't bring up any VSC diagnostic messages.
2. I pulled the panel from the dash out to check to make sure the button was working, and I do get connectivity between the two outside pins while the button is pushed in.
how to get this to reset, or what the problem might be?
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Can't bring the seat down it locks up?
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I bought a friends 95 f350 7.3 powerstroke with an E4OD. The truck quit driving.the OD light is not blinking. I confirmed the OD light does light up.The trans fluid is full , red and does not smell burnt. I have tried to manually shift 1st and second nothing happens. No reverse. Where should I look for the problem? Solenoid pack, loose valve body, bad relay?
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I've had my GTI almost 2 months now, and I love almost everything about it. Recently I've noticed that the shifter makes a thunking noise and seems to seat itself into reverse after I put it in reverse and back up 10 feet or so. It seems to happen at lease half the time, but not every time. It does not happen if I keep my hand on the shifter. Is it worth bringing in right away or should I just wait until my 10k service?
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I intended to purchase a 1997 F150 4x4 today and found that the manual transfer case lever will not move at all. I have read the manual and it seems simple to move from 2H to 4H (at stop of up to 55mph). No movement in the lever at all. Owner said he never uses it and has no idea what is wrong.
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I just noticed I could manually down shift transmission in D drive by tapping - on shift lever. I thought this was only possible in M manual mode.
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My 2009 Ford Escape shift lever is stuck, not allowing me to shift out of park without using the manual override. However, when I slam my foot to the brake (rather than simply stepping on the brake), the brake switch relay, etc. all engage and I am able to shift out of park. Is this a brake switch relay problem, or is it possible that it has to do with the age of my brakes, etc?
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I have an Automatic which i almost hate but that is another issue...it seems that if i am in a lower gear a punch it the transmission seems to slam before accelerating. I figured if it turned into a big problem it is still under warranty. but I am just curious considering ive driven it a year like this.
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When using any accessories plugged into the Aux port, either with the original iPod cable, aux jack or my bluetooth receiver plugged into the aux jack the audio comes out very staticky and even cuts in and out. The weird part is that it intensifies when I accelerate and usually at the top end of the RPM range before a gear shift. When I am really pushing the car during a merge or passing the audio eventually just gives out. When I am in a more constant RPM the audio just crackles. I have checked my fuses and dont seem to see any issues.
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Automatic transmission fluid change. I can't find any info in the manual. What does Hyundai recommend? What mileage should I change fluid ??
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That one little bulb on the left just doesn't cut it.
This afternoon I finally had a chance to wire in two 10" strips of LED lights into the back of my SE. Here's how it turned out (and yes, I need to clean my trunk):
Not bad at all! I shot a bunch of video and will try and find time tomorrow to edit it together for a DIY.
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Turning the fan knob yields no results. The AC compressor does kick in as I can feel it when I turn it on when idling, so the knob appears to work. The blower does not move air.
I checked the fuse below the steering wheel and the fuse makes a complete circuit although the edge looks a bit darkened. Other fuses from working devices look the same and I took a spare 10A fuse from the designated area and inserted into the blower motor fuse location - still nothing.
I will also inspect the relays/fuses in the engine compartment to see if anything in there looks blown that's related to the blower motor. Hopefully it will be something simple, but probably not...
I will need to take it in to get it looked at and fixed, and this is probably not under warranty since vehicle has 56k miles... while I'm there I'll have a transmission fluid exchange done as well and I was planning on getting some body work done.
My bumper was torn off from the fact that it sits low enough that sometimes it would go over the parking stump. Well, it eventually got caught really bad and tore it off. Now the tab where the screw goes to secure the bumper has sheared off so it just hangs. Also, the tearing action from the parking stump caused the inner fender to come off and rub against my tire while driving, tearing it into shreds from the friction.
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I had a 2013 Elantra that I traded in for my new Accent. The last 6 months that I had my Elantra, the transmission was slipping like crazy. Mostly when it was cold, and at lower speeds. I started noticing this while the car only had 20000 km's on it. Personally, I think it had something to do with contaminants in the fluid. I told the dealership this but they just kind of dismissed it and said it probably just had something to do with the ECU messing up the shift timing or something to that extent. They made an "adjustment" but the problem didn't go away.
It got me thinking that since an automatic transmission has so many parts, wouldn't it be fair to say that metal particles from all these newly machined pieces and edges could have some initial deterioration causing a build-up of contaminants? I think a transmission flush would've resolved the issue. That's a lot cheaper than a full tranny swap down the road while the car is still under warranty, isn't it Hyundai? It's their problem now though.
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