Accent RB (2012+) :: Top Brake Light Blinks When Pressed
Mar 8, 2016
I think I might have a mod on my accent I just purchased used. The top brake light blinks a couple times when pressing the brake and then goes on solid. I have seen these in motorcycle and cars a few times. Is this something that came from the factory or is it a mod to the vehicle?
Also I noticed that the rear window sprayer shoots out windshield washer fluid about 20 ft out straight out the back of the vehicle. I guess its an anti tail gater mod.
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When I accelerate to merge onto the highway or pass my battery light blinks as well as my headlight flickering and a slight loss in power. My car has 140k miles on it, original battery which seems to test fine on my charger. I just change the spark plugs.
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While pressing the brake, the green light never comes on. The car is less than two weeks old and this is happening.
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Noticed when I press brake pedal brake lights does not work even the center one. Checked all fused in the car and the small ones under the hood. All fine. I have a long trip tomorrow. Where else i can look. Everything seems working. Reverse light is fine. Is that related to latest brake light switch recall? Cant think of anything else.
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I purchased a 2009 Hyundai Accent Automatic with less than 50000 Miles. I recently had to replace spark plug connector due to rats. Now, having issues with getting it to drive in the mornings. Description;I let the car warm up about 2 minutes before putting it in drive. Once I let my foot off of the brake the car begins to jolt forward and won't stop until I put my foot back on the brake. Even while holding the brake the car jolts but won't go forward. I have to put the car back in Park before it will stop. This goes on for about 15 to 20 minutes. Then, as if there were never any problems, the car drives as it is supposed to. *I have turned the car off and restarted but the car still jolts forward until it decides not to.I have checked the transmission fluid and it doesn't appear dirty but maybe low. Would low transmission fluid level cause this type of behavior? I am on a budget and a huge transmission bill is not really something I can afford right now. But I need to be able to get to work everyday. I can't imagine that the transmission is going up when the car has less than 50000 miles on it. I've had it since the middle of January.
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My brake lights keeps going off and the stop fuse keeps blowing and when it blows the TRAC light turns on and stay on. I try to change all the brake light bulbs and the 15amp fuse that was blown but it blows again what could it be?
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I own a 04 Grand Cherokee and have recently had problems with my passenger side brake light. Now the light itself does work under normal running light conditions, but when I go to press the brake pedal it doesn't engage the bright brake light. Drivers side works fine and so do all my other lights, I replaced the bulb to no avail, and am now currently looking into replacing the bulb socket.
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I have a 2012 Elantra limited. About 2 weeks ago I've started to hear a clicking noise coming from the gearbox when brake pedal is pressed and let go. This only happens when the car is at standstill. I took it in for service today and sales rep said its a normal clicking noise and his sisters car makes same sound. He said its an actuator motor engaging to allow the car to shift when brake is pressed. The thing is, the clicking was never there before or maybe not so loud. So what should I do? Car is still under warranty, should I demand for them to replace the actuating motor? Maybe call Hyundai and complain that they said the noise is normal ?
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I own a manual accent from the 2000 that I have since last December. Fuel pump and battery are new, I changed them after getting the car.
The issues I have and I think they are due to the same reason, are the following.
1. Sometimes, when I turn the key to on position and before cranking, the engine light blinks and the car wouldn't start. Then I remove the key and try again until the light doesn't blink and then the car would start. This could be the second time, the third time or after several times. When the light blinks and I try to start the car, I can hear the fuel pump and the battery working, so the problem must be somewhere else. Also, this issue happens very randomly, it may doesn't happen during two weeks and then it happens one day and next day is OK again.
2. Few times it happened that even if the engine light wasn't blinking, the car started but like without enough power and then it stalled, I tried again, and it has always started OK the second time.
3. A couple of times, I was on the road and stopped the car in a red light and it stalled when I switched to neutral.
4. The car sometimes struggles with the first gear, when I'm switching from neutral to first gear to start the car (after being stopped in a red light for example). The car would start very slowly, even if I'm pushing the accelerator and don't have my foot on the clutch anymore. But after few seconds, the car runs well and I switch to second gear, third gear, etc. and runs perfect. Above 10-20 km/h the car runs perfect, I only have issues (sometimes, not always) at very low speed in first gear.
I think that's it. So far, my mechanic has checked the code problem and he coded a new key, thinking that it was a communication problem between the key and the engine, but it didn't solve the problem. I don't know where to bring the car, because every time someone checks it, they can't find the problem or a solution and I don't want to spend more money for no reason. But I'm also worried that the car breaks down one day in the middle of the road or when I'm in the field with volunteers (I need the car to do field work, but luckily it's not a remote area.
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My wife has 2012 Camry with 23K.
Right now the service engine soon light blinks as the car starts up. Is it a matter of dealer plugging something into clear code? What will the dealer want to service?
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I bought my car in 2012. Lets say I have my air on completely custom settings (temp, fan speed, mode). When I press the Auto button the fan speed automatically adjusts based on the temperature I have set, the mode always forces to feet only (sometimes feet and defroster) and the A/C light always comes on.
The only way to keep it in Auto mode while turning the A/C button off is to do the following: Press the Auto button, then press the A/C button to turn it off.
I am just trying to figure out the logic behind why Toyota would force the A/C light every single time the Auto button is pressed, even when it is 5 degrees outside.
So am I correct in turning the A/C light off when in Auto mode and using heat only or does the A/C light come on for a reason? Is it actually running the A/C compressor even in the winter?
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I have 2013 Elantra ( 20,000 miles) and when I put the brake lights on without the headlights on everything works ok but when the headlights are on the driver's side brake light does not come on when the brake pedal is pressed. I thought it was a bulb problem so I replaced it but I am still having the same issue. What is going on? I know it is still under warranty but I figured I could handle a burnt bulb issue but that was not it. I noticed that the drivers side bulb is not as bright either when brake is pressed without headlights
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I have a 99 Toyota Camry and recently the breaklight has been coming on and off sporadically. I assumed I had done some damage to my E-break, as the other week I tried to back out with it on (cut me some slack, I just moved to PA after having only really driven in FL lol). I wasn't worried about it since I didn't notice any issues with my breaks, however the last few days I randomly have to press the pedal down almost to the floor to come to a full stop. There doesn't seem to be any consistency to this, sometimes it happens when the light is on but usually not. It does it both when I am stopped (causing me to move forward slightly till I depress it farther), sometimes when I am stopping normally, both when I'm going straight and right after turning, ect.
I checked my break fluid level and it is at the minimum line so I doubt that is the issue. I did some research and saw many saying that it was likely just air in the lines and that the system needed to be bled. But some also mentioned replacing the master cylinder so I wanted to see what response I might get on here (I don't know very much about cars myself).
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Is there a secret to this? I've tried everything. I have the proper tools, I've dried bleeding the brake fluid as I compress, but nothing is working! This is the first time I've changed my brakes, but everything online looks straight forward enough. Is there anything I could be missing or does it seem that my piston is legit stuck?
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My girlfriends 2013 Hyundai Accent is having some problems. Yesterday, the Check Engine Light came on, but went out on its own maybe 15 minutes later. She did not feel that the car was running any differently.
This morning, after the car being parked through the night with the parking brake applied (she usually does not apply the parking brake), she observed that it still felt like the brake was applied when she tried reversing out. I told her to pull and release the brake a few times, but she said it was no luck.
What this might be?
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Just had 30,000 km service done and was told the rear disc brake pads are almost completely worn out. The front ones are hardly worn and I'm not a fierce type driver who jams on the brakes or one who leaves the handbrake on..
I asked the service manager how come the rears are worn yet the fronts aren't - his answer was sometimes this happens.
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I have a 2012 Hyundai ACCENT 4 door 45K miles. There is grinding noise that I hear when I do a slow brake. At first This grinding noise use to only happen in the morning the first couple of years, it would go away within minutes or less. Now, the grinding noise is almost during every slow brake at a red light etc. It's a grinding horrible noise that seems to be getting worse.
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This morning after starting my accent the abs, e-brake, and traction lights all came on. What could this indicate, and should I not drive the car till it is fixed? I checked brake fluid levels for the of it, and they were fine.
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I have this problem of my in dash cluster flickers and dims at the same time? Also the green lights on indicator flickers and disappears? Took it to the Dealer and put in a new multi function switch, but still does the same thing?
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I live in the mountains an back into my driveway that is on a steep hill. My car has rolled backwards twice now with the parking break engaged. The first time it came to a halt where it flattened out. Last night I had my truck parked behind it and it rolled into our recycling and garbage bins and pinned them between the car and the truck. I have a significant dent below the window on my hatch.
Manual transmission. Parking brake engaged. Car was in neutral. I usually leave my car in first when parking on a hill. I am not sure if it slipped out of gear or I left it in neutral by accident.
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2013 accent auto My car rolls noticeably after parking unless the ground is completely flat. Parking brakes prevents it from rolling but I don't use parking brakes every time. Another brake problem I have is thump or clunk noise I get whenever I release a brake from stop.
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