I have about 26,000 Miles on it, this afternoon I tried to start it. The starter engaged and turned over and over and over, but the engine wouldn't start. Then I took the key out, waited 5 seconds, and tried again, it started. It was about 60 degrees out, so it wasn't cold. Half a tank of gas.
This may seem a little petty, but its a 2012 with only 26,000 Miles on it.
So I turned off my truck the other day, got out, and it started again on its own. Confused, I looked in my hand to see my key. I got back in, and tapped the brake thinking the command start had engaged, even though I did not have the remote with me. It continued to run. So I put the key back in the ignition, turned it to ON and back OFF. It still ran. I had to run inside for a half a minute so I left it running.
Came back and drove away with no issues. When I stopped again about 2 minutes later and shifted to PARK, the starter engaged making it's terrible 'hey stupid, I'm already running' sound. I tried shutting it OFF quickly but it still ran and made it's skinning crawling noise. So I quickly shifted back to DRIVE. All the gears worked fine but PARK and NEUTRAL had the starter engaging. I also could not shut the truck off from DRIVE as the key would not turn.
I drove over to a local garage and called them from the truck as I was effectively trapped in the truck with my foot on the brake, unable to shift to PARK or turn it OFF. No supporting staff. So I drove back to work where I had a co-worker remove the battery cable at which point I was able to shift to PARK and turn OFF the truck. I let it sit like that for about 10 minutes and haven't had a problem since.
What happened?? And for the record I can put gas in the tank and changed my own oil, but that is the extent of my vehicle knowledge.
o my wife was driving our 2005 Accent GLS with about 95k miles yesterday, and it had an issue that it's had three or four times before: the engine would turn over but wouldn't start while it was still warm. In the past when it happened, whoever was driving would wait a few minutes and try again. It always started on the third or fourth try after waiting five to twenty minutes.
Yesterday, however, she was frustrated and so called AAA to have them send a battery truck over and have them take a look at it. The truck came relatively quickly, and they started their diagnostic procedures. The battery was fine (knew that), and he tried all the standard things like cleaning the terminals/harnesses and whacking the starter with a hammer. My wife said that as she and the tech tried to start the car, the turn-over seemed to get shorter and shorter- so when she first tried it would turn for a few seconds, and after a dozen or so attempts it was only turning for a second or less.
Finally, the tech (who apparently seemed to be frustrated at this point) got behind the wheel while my wife was looking under the opened hood and turned the ignition on and held it. The positive battery terminal apparently started smoking and my wife had to yell at him to get him to stop.
After this point, the engine no longer turned over at all. He tried a few more things like cleaning the cables, but no change. He finally said that he would call for a tow truck, and we ended up getting it towed back to our house.
The problem is unchanged since yesterday: there is full power when in ACC mode, but when you turn the ignition all the way to the on position there is nothing but a single loud "click" and a high-pitched whining noise.
I left my ODB bluetooth interface at my office, so I haven't been able to see if there are any codes.
2013 2.5 liter. I took my car into the dealer for a grinding noise on cold start. Sounds kinda like the starter was engaged too long, some sort of grind that only happens after the car has been sitting for a few hours.
They replaced a camshaft VVT-i gear, said it's fixed, and now I swear the noise is louder. Is this just something to consider "normal" for the 2.5 liter engine?
Last week I started having problems with my 05 Accent, hatchback, 1.6L engine, automatic transmission. Filled the tank up with gas and the car stalled pulling out of the station and wouldn't start unless I pumped the gas while cranking the engine. Ran and started fine after that and I thought it may have just been an air bubble in the fuel line, since there wasn't a check engine light or any other symptoms after that. Fast forward to this morning and the check engine light comes on during my commute and when I checked it, it gave an EVAP code (P0441). I also stopped to refill the gas and it stalled again as I was leaving the station. Also after I measured the gas mileage I found that I'd lost around 7 mpg (from around 30 to around 23).
I've never heard of EVAP problems causing stalling and loss of gas mileage but I'm not all that familiar with these systems so I don't really know. I'm going to test if it's the gas cap going bad since on the list of things that could cause a P0441 that seems to be the easiest place to start, but other than that where to start looking?
Quite literally just received the buyout agreement yesterday. My wife went out this morning to leave and the car turned over a couple times but wouldn't start. I went out and tried it and it would turn over, the engine would (pretty violently) bounce, but wouldn't start. The 4th or 5th try (as you see in the video below) started. Turned it off and tried again and just click, click, click. Seems like a classic case of a dead battery? Not seen a GTI react so violently to having a low battery before though...
View 4 RepliesI love my car 2012 Hyundai Accent GLS but once it hit 60K miles, the engine light came on and it has been eating gas. I get up to 160 miles per tank now. My MP fluctuates from 12-25 MPG. I literally watch it jump when I fill up the car, then a few miles later, it drops again. Code P2196 always comes up. (stuck rich)
Dealer advised me to do fuel system flush.
Dealer replaced upstream o2 Sensor
Dealer replaced Check Valve
New Spark Plugs last Fall due to hearing really loud spark knocking... and also re-gapped last week. Now I can hear them slightly again.
Engine light just came back on after almost 200 miles.
Reading some other threads- apparently this seems to be a known issue for my car.
I am wondering if I should try replacing the downstream o2 sensor.... OR consider trading my car.
On December 27th I was driving home and just hit the city limits when my car wouldn't go faster than 50km - no more than 20km up hill.
View 2 RepliesI bought a used 2008 Toyota Camry per-certified from a local Toyota dealer about 2 years ago. About a year and a half ago I got in the car to go to work one morning and it would not start. You turn the key and all the lights come on but nothing else happened. Took the battery to Auto Zone and they said the battery was OK so I had it towed to the dealership. Dealer called when he got it and said it cranked right up for them and it has not been an issue since.
Two days ago I get in the car to leave work and the same thing happens. You might hear the starter click when you turn the key but nothing else happened. The car was getting power from the battery but that was about it. I tried to jump the car off but still the same thing. I had the car towed to a local Goodyear shop and after looking at it the said it was a problem with the alternator, that needed to be replaced, which also killed a cell in the battery that needed to be replaced also. They said since they are replacing the alternator they might as well replace the belt also.
Had an odd situation earlier tonight. The starter cranked normally but the engine wouldn't actually start. I let it go for 10 seconds and hit the button again to make it stop in order to protect the battery. A few seconds later, I tried and it fired right up without a hitch. The MIL never came on so no codes most likely.
Car has 17k on it. 2013 2.0
I went to leave today and found the 2012 Accent (auto trans) won't start. The starter doesn't even try to engage.
Battery voltage was 11.5 both when turning the key to start, and when just in the accessory position.
I put jumper cables on it from my truck and left it for 5 minutes. Voltage was now 13.5 but it still wouldn't try to crank.
What to easily check? I plan to call the dealer in the morning and have them come get it since I only have 17,xxx miles on it.
2003 1.8t gti ... Today when I got in my car...it fired up perfectly normal but when I got in it from leaving school it took 5min to fire up. The engine turned over but wouldn't fire all the time as if the spark plugs were bad. So I bought new NGK spark plugs and had the same issue just a little bit ago.
I know the obvious thing would be to change the ignition coils but they're out of stock everywhere so I have to have them shipped. My question is is the ignition coils the problem? They looked a bit worn but nothing serious.
My mom's 2012 accent won't start. When turning the key the starter does not even attempt to engage. Battery voltage is fine, I also tried jumping it. I have already checked all the fuses and relays and they are good.
Whenever the car is attempted to be started, the Electronic Throttle Body/ MAF makes a high pitched sound but that is all we can get out of the car right now. I also checked the parking sensor by going from Park (P), through all the gears, and then back to Park. Still nada.
I have just recently acquired an 01 Accent with the 1.6L and have had a few problems with it. It has about 112,000 miles on it and at about 109,000 it had the following services performed by the previous owner (reputable shop did the work)
-New battery
-New timing belt kit
-New water pump
-New valve cover gasket
-New plugs
-New belts
-New front pads
-New front rotors
-New rear wheel cylinders
-New front CV axles
-New tires all around
-Alignment
Now since I got it with about 111,000 miles on it, it ran and drove great until I had to put a new alternator on it as well as having to take the center console and automatic shift lever out to repair the wires for the O/D button. Car wouldn't shift into high gear. The problem I am having now is the car will crank but it will not start. Not even a sputter. I drove the car to and from work the day previous and then went out and started it to go to work in the morning and it started fine and ran fine for a minute or two then it just died like I turned the key off. No spitting or sputtering like it was running out of gas just died completely. Checked a few fuses and such and really not sure where to go from here because I don't have a code reader and don't wanna just throw parts at it, I would rather troubleshoot the problem.
Our 2005 Hyundai Accent GLS refused to start yesterday. It seemed like the engine was struggling to turn over. It took about 10 minutes and then the engine FINALLY started. CEL came on. We drove about 1 mile and back, and the engine seemed fine. We even turned the car off, and turned it back on with no issues.
We took it into the shop but it's been about a day and they can't replicate the issue.
FYI, the CEL code is "P2096" (Post Catalytic Fuel Trim Bank 1 System Too Lean). This has prompted the garage to look at the fuel pressure system.
Historical Issues:
1. Last year, we found out that the car had minor issues trying to start up. Specifically, it takes an extra second or two for the fuel to be injected into the engine upon start-up.
We would mitigate this by: sticking the key in > turning the key halfway > wait about 2 seconds > then turn the key all the way.
I wonder if this starter ignition or fuel injector is wearing out.
2. About 2 months ago, the car started to struggle when it came to changing gears -- especially on the highway when trying to reach the 4th gear. The car would also randomly jerk regardless if we were decelerating, accelerating or maintaining speed.
Around that same time, the car struggled to go uphill (especially on a very steep highway hill that's near our house). The CEL would flash and we were constantly nervous that the car would simply die and roll backwards.
It seemed like a transmission issue but the garage we took it to replaced the coils, wires, plugs, and vacuumed out excess carbon dioxide buildup. Since doing so, the car was running perfectly.
I have a 2002 Ford Ranger with a 3.0L engine that is having some issues with starting, here is what is happening.
Every so so often when the key is turned to start there is no movement from the starter motor. The battery is fine and all of the dash lights stay on while the engine is not starting. I have replaced the starter with a remanufactured model (possibly a mistake), and also replaced the clutch interlock switch.
I have attempted to change the ignition switch but the replacement I received did not even try to turn the starter (after many tries), like possibly it was faulty out of the box. I am currently using the OEM ignition switch as it will at least turn the starter eventually. I just worry that this problem will develop further at the wrong time.
I find it very annoying that the A/C comes on automatically when the defroster is turned on.
View 22 RepliesCheck engine light came ON yesterday and I got a diagnosis at Autozone. These are the codes that came up.
P0456 - EVAP Emission System Leak (very small)
P0326 - Knock Sensor 1 Range/Performance Bank
Not sure what happened with my Accent. When I turn on the A/C the blue lights come on, but the compressor is not kicking in and it's blowing warm air. I checked my fuses under the dash and in the engine bay and they look good.
View 10 RepliesThe customer brought in her 130,000 mile 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis complaining that the starter would click several times as she turned the key again and again, before it would make the the engine crank like crazy. I saw that the positive battery cable was badly corroded, and replaced the aftermarket end with a new aftermarket end. Everything was nice and clean. No difference. I tested the battery for load voltage with my good old Sun VAT-60. It tested good, sufficient voltage after 15 seconds under a 100 amp load. I removed the fuel pump relay so that the car would not stay running for long, and then would not start when the starter did engage. It drew 120 amps while cranking. That's within spec for a fully warm engine.
I think what she has is a bad solenoid atop the starter, or perhaps a bad spot on the commutator that moves slightly with each click until the brushes are in another position. Then it will turn OK.
I think a new starter is needed. Am I on the right track? I don't want to crawl under it unless I have to, and she doesn't have money for me to make a mistake.
It's a no crank, no start issue. Battery is only a few months old and tests fine (800CCA,) starter is only 2 months old and we've pulled it out a couple times to have it tested and it's fine. Positive and negative battery cables are also fairly new (last spring.) I've tested pretty much every fuse and relay in the truck that had to do with the starter, etc. My brother has tested the resistance on most of the cables and wires (battery cables, alternator, starter, etc.) Anti-Theft has been tested as well.
Now, here's the odd part. When the key is turned, the starter clicks, but it doesn't turn the engine... at all. About the only thing I haven't tested is to see if the engine is locked up (which would really, really suck.) Now, this is an L76, 6.0L engine. It has D.O.D and variable valve timing, so the issues may be different than the 5.3 or 4.8.