Accent RB (2012+) :: Starter Does Not Even Try To Engage
Oct 7, 2012
I went to leave today and found the 2012 Accent (auto trans) won't start. The starter doesn't even try to engage.
Battery voltage was 11.5 both when turning the key to start, and when just in the accessory position.
I put jumper cables on it from my truck and left it for 5 minutes. Voltage was now 13.5 but it still wouldn't try to crank.
What to easily check? I plan to call the dealer in the morning and have them come get it since I only have 17,xxx miles on it.
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My mom's 2012 accent won't start. When turning the key the starter does not even attempt to engage. Battery voltage is fine, I also tried jumping it. I have already checked all the fuses and relays and they are good.
Whenever the car is attempted to be started, the Electronic Throttle Body/ MAF makes a high pitched sound but that is all we can get out of the car right now. I also checked the parking sensor by going from Park (P), through all the gears, and then back to Park. Still nada.
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I have about 26,000 Miles on it, this afternoon I tried to start it. The starter engaged and turned over and over and over, but the engine wouldn't start. Then I took the key out, waited 5 seconds, and tried again, it started. It was about 60 degrees out, so it wasn't cold. Half a tank of gas.
This may seem a little petty, but its a 2012 with only 26,000 Miles on it.
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So yesterday I drove to my friends house b4 work. My car started up just fine no problem. I was at his house for maybe an hour and as I was going to leave I tried to start my car and it was dead? All my lights work got a jump. Still nothing so today I took my starter off and had it tested( fail). Paid for a new one and put it back on. Hooked everything up. Went really smooth. But went to start it and it won't engage the flywheel? Am I missing something?
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I have a 1998 Accord EX 4-cylinder that will not start. When I turn the key the starter does not engage. The green key indicator on the instrument panel looks like it recognizes the key security chip.
When I checked for voltage at the starter solenoid coil wire I found about 9.0 volts without turning the key. When I turned the key I got a little over 11 volts. I disconnected the wire to the solenoid coil and measured 0 volts from the coil wire to the battery BUT 9.0 volts from the tab on the solenoid valve to the battery. It makes me think something is shorted to the frame of the starter.
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Replaced starter after which when i turn key to on position starter will engage and actually start engine; turn to accessory and starter will engage but wont start engine. Checked double checked and so on installation. And then exchanged for another rebuilt starter with same results. the reason for replacing the starter in the first place was during the winter went out to start to let motor run fur a while which it did. Went to move before completely warmed up and killed engine starter never made another sound. 1978 gmc 6000....
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Developed a problem that I'm trying to research a bit to see if there is a common problem. Haven't really seen too much info yet, other than a potential clutch switch that will continue to display "depress clutch!" That's not my problem.
I don't drive this thing more than once a month or so. But occasionally I'll drive it to work for week or less.
Basically, every once in a while I'll try to start the engine and the starter will engage and turn the engine for about 1/2 second and then stop. All lights on the dash stay on. I'll reset the key, and it will usually then start normally on the next try. Sometimes it does the same thing on the second attempt.
Battery is 100% topped up, as it stays on a battery tender. Battery load test shows great. Connections are tight and clean.
The other day I cleaned the main B+ terminal on the starter, made sure the terminal jamb nut was tight and cleaned; then assembled the terminal and torqued. Removed, cleaned and re-torqued the top bolt on the starter. Cleaned and re-tightened the main grounds. Also cleaned the solenoid connection and made sure it fit back on securely.
Was fine for about 6 starts then it did the same thing again.
The last work I did on the car was a clutch upgrade (myself)...literally almost a year ago. I've driven it about...500 or less miles since. So I'd have assumed bad starter connections, but I think I've ruled those out. I didn't drop the subframe, just the transmission. the problem did start pretty much immediately after that job and hadn't done it at all before that job.
So what other interconnects are in the system to control the starter? Relays, control modules, switches, sensors...I'm sure all of the above. Something is allowing the starter to turn for 1/2 second and then drops it.
Perhaps the battery is dropping below voltage while cranking and something is aborting the start?
I haven't really done much diagnosing other than a simple load test on the battery. I haven't taken voltage readings under cranking, voltage drops across wires or voltage readings at terminals yet. Ugh..I really just don't feel like it. Maybe I'll just dump the car into the Pasquotank River.
Not that it really matters, but I've also installed an APR K04, full exhaust, Carbino intake...I don't know what else. But it was all done quite a while ago, by me. This second clutch I've done seems to have been the thing that triggered this particular problem.
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2003 Passat 1.8t FWD.
My buddy is having a wierd issue that just recently started after it's gotten cold out. The car would not start for him so he had me look at it. Attempting to start there's no sound from the starter at all. Battery is fine. When I shift in and out of a few gears, the starter engages and the car starts. Stop the car. Attempt to start it again and nothing. Shift through the gears some more and the car almost starts but quickly dies. Shift some more, start, running like a champ.
What is it about shifting through the gears that allows the starter to engage and the car to run again?
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Came home from a trip and the Santa Fe had been parked for 3 days. No starting issues prior, but went to move it and no go. When I turn the keys something "spins" but the starter does not engage. 99% sure it needs replaced. 02 GLS V6 AWD
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I have a 2000 Ford F150 lariat with the 5.4 liter engine. At least once or twice a day, its like the starter hits a bad spot and will spin but not engage the flywheel. It has a new starter, battery, and solenoid. What this might be?
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My 96 Tacoma has recently developed an issue where the starter doesn't engage when I turn the key. If I let out the clutch/break and start over, it typically works.
The weird part is that I never had this issue until I had the clutch replaced. The day after I got it back was the first time I had any issues. It is intermittent and doesn't happen anywhere close to all the time. I took it back to the shop that did my clutch and they told me I needed to replace my starter but I'm wondering if there is any other explanation for what's happening that would make sense given the timing of the whole thing. Could work they did replacing the clutch be causing this?
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My Nissan sentra will start on the coldest day, but now that it's getting warmer it sometimes won't start! Turn the key and I have power to everything, but engage the starter and nothing! Not even a click! Try and try and eventually it starts. What could cause this??
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I have a 96 Impala SS with over 100k. I have a problem with it not starting, it is random as far as time of the day or if its been doing it, I will crank the key and it does nothing, all lights are on but the starter does not engage. I tried moving the shift lever and no luck, until I put it in neutral rock it back and toward and then it will start, I've done this three times in a row and it has started each one.
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My wifes 2011 Hyundai Sonata would not start yesterday at the clinic. I purchased a new battery went there today to replace the battery. Before I started the work I tried starting the car. When I turned the key to the on position the radio came on and the dashboard lit up like normal. As soon as I turned the key to start the car the battery went completely dead. The starter did not engage and the electrical went out.
I replaced the battery. When I turned the key to the on position nothing turned on. Not the radio or any of the dashboard lights. I tried starting the car and there was not response, exactly like a dead battery. I purchased a new battery and they tested it right in front of me before giving it to me so I feel like I can rule out the battery.
I double checked that he connections were tight. I tried jiggling the shifter, pushing the brake pedal, jigging the steering wheel around, jiggling the key in the ignition. The positive battery terminal connector has a fuse, it appears to be intact. I also checked the fuse panel in the engine compartment. All of the large fuses are intact (I only looked at the 3 or 4 of the large ones that were visible from the top). I didn't check the smaller fuses, I wasn't sure which ones to check.
A little background;For a couple days in a row my wife was noticing that the car was struggling to start (she didn't mention this to me right away). I noticed that when we were driving it the head lights had a very suttle flicker. When were idling at a stoplight it appeared as if the lights were dimming and getting brighter rapidly. I noticed it from the reflection of a license plate and dismissed it as maybe just the wind causing the license plate on the car ahead of us to wobble. It was suttle and not very pronounced. Yesterday my wife went to the clinic and when she was leaving the car would not start. Someone try with jumper cables but she was not able to get it started. Even after letting it sit for 5 minutes before trying to start it.
My buddy thinks it's the ignition switch itself, but that sounds quite a bit beyond my capacity. I suspected that since the lights were fluttering/dimming that it was an alternator problem. Even if the alternator is bad wouldn't the car still run on a fresh battery?
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My neighbor has a 2008 Grand prix V8 that won't turn over. When the ignition is turn on the starter does not turn and then the horn honks once, you hear clicking sounds in the engine compartment and inside the car and the service display goes through each system indicating that it needs service. We unsuccessfully tried jumping the battery.
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160K miles. Sometimes starter doesn't seem to engage with the engine and the engine won't start unless i put it in neutral and floor the gas pedal. Then it shakes, rattles, sputters and smokes comes out but it starts like the car in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang (for the oldsters here). Happens about every third start. Once i had a 67 Plymouth where every once in a while i would have to hold the butterfly open (with a stick) on the carburetor. I have to take it and get it fixed. So odd that it is not every start. Happening with more frequency.
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I have 2007 Santa Fe LTD which will intermittently not start. All electrical devices work fine but when you turn the key the starter will not engage. Keep trying the key and after 5-10-100 try's the car will start. The next time it may start on the first attempt or it might not. Sometimes it will go weeks without a problem then it will not start again. I have checked the starter relay, battery, and cables. It seems like the alarm is faulty and not letting the power get to the starter.
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I hoped in my 2006 GS300 car Monday morning to head to work and pressed the start button while holding the break pedal and the starter didn't engage/turnover the engine. Everything looks normal (Green light on starter button, dash lights come on, etc...) except no starter action. I mean not even a tick or a click.... Nada....
The car battery was replaced in the past 6months or so and the key FOB battery seems good as well since it detects when I approach the vehicle. My wife was also in the car with me and had her key FOB as well. I can also hear the fuel pump priming when I press the start button as expected.
I'm thinking its a starter problem and will start by verifying the voltage at the solenoid when attempting to crank.
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08 Lexus GS350. Drove car Christmas Eve everything was fine, Christmas morning I go to start the car and it attempts to start once and before it cuts on it stops. Then anytime afterwards when I push the start button the starter doesn't engage and the radiator cooling fan comes on. I let the car sit for half a day and try to start it again I get the same cycle (it engages the starter but quits before the car turns over)...
- Battery is new as of September 14 (also took the battery to get checked 100% charged).
- I replaced the alternator in November 14
- I currently have the car at my mechanics but they can't figure it out as of yet. So far they are saying that the can't the cars computer to respond to their machine.
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Neighbor bought a 91 tracker. We put a new battery and alternator in it. We have to jump the vehicle to get it to start. While running with the light on, the lights are extremely dim. Sometimes the vehicle will start again, but most times it won't. What I mean by it won't start is nothing happens when you turn the key. No clicking starter does not engage. Sometime the car will not stay running with out charger attached. Then again sometimes everything is fine.
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I have a 1995 Nissan Maxima. The starter will not engage (no noise at all) when the outside temperature is below 60 degrees. All of the electrical is functional, but when I turn on the starter, there is no click sound or any indication that the starter attempted to engage. The car is a manual transmission, so I push start the car, and there is no squeal when the car starts so the starter gear was not touching the flywheel. Above 60 degrees, everything works normally. I have replaced the starter motor and solenoid, replaced the battery, but the problem persists.
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