Accent RB (2012+) :: Sputtering Like Losing Power Around 30 - 40 Mph
Mar 29, 2016
This began occurring after I hosed down my engine with degreaser, stupid me. Car will begin to sputter like it is losing power around 30-40mph, and then it's fine. Rarely it happens around higher speeds with the cruise control on around 65 its just fine and the CEL never came on. Well yesterday i pulled the battery cable for 30 minutes to let things reset, then i got a CEL, code P0030 which I think is an o2 sensor, so i guess it went bad from the water perhaps? What part I need, where it is located and how difficult this would be to do in the driveway?
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2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L for about a month has been sputtering/losing power when I come to a stop but keep it in gear. You can see the gauge drop when it sputter. Runs fine if I put it in park at the stop lights which I do because I feel as if may shut off (never has shut off). Replaced the crankshaft sensor and it had no effect. I so notice the same sputter when driving sometimes.
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My 2004 Santa Fe (4cyl) started sputtering and losing power, like it was about to stall out, then all of a sudden it'll regain power and drives fine. When the stuttering happens the check engine light comes on, but then when it regains power, the check engine light goes out. This seems to happen at highway speeds because I can't seem to recreate the issue driving around the neighborhood. I also can't scan for codes because I cannot get the CE light to come on (when I want it to). About 2 years ago I took it to the dealership for similar symptoms, with my car eventually stalling completely out and I couldn't get it to start back up. The problem then was crank shaft position sensor, which I had replaced.
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I have a 2001 chevy venture (254,000 miles) that has me baffled. It has been a great van but it started about a month ago sputtering and bucking and numerous times shutting off. Most times the engine light would NOT come on. It would get the hiccoughs and start bucking like someone learning to drive a stick shift for the first time. Once it sputtered hard enough to throw off the serpentine belt. I put a new timing belt on it last year when I redone the intake manifold gasket. Now its not shutting off but it has only about half the power it should and the engine light is starting to come on more often.
It bogs down and then it will try to go then bog down again. The engine light blinks for about 20 seconds then stops and goes out. When the engine light is on and stays on the code most often says system too lean, and a egr flow insufficient. It does have a vacuum leak in the hose going to the egr. Have ordered that, hasn't come in yet. Gas mileage is horrible. I have done new plugs, fuel filter and cleaned the K&N air filter. Someone suggested the catalytic converter. I dumped in a bottle of 'Cata-cleanse' from Autozone. No difference. A friend of mine had a venture doing the exact same thing. It was in the shop for 6mo with no luck. But his straightened out on its own and is running good now. I really don't feel like waiting 6mo to see if this will straighten out.
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I have a 2000 Ford Ranger, small v-6, automatic, no AC, windows, door locks, this has a heater and radio. This truck runs fine until I try to climb up the mountains (Colorado) and at app. fifty mph the engine starts sputtering and losing power. More than just an engine ping. When I run on flat ground while pulling a fifteen hundred pound load it runs fine with no sputtering or loss of power. Mechanics here are stumped.
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My 2005 1.6 is losing power now and then when I accelerate. gas mileage is getting worse. I don't want to replace any unnecessary parts. wires and plugs look good.. Codes 300, 301, 302, 303 ..
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I have a 2002 accent 1.6.(272,000 miles) It has been having this issue for awhile now. It is very slow to accelerate, seems like it is losing power. Also if I press the gas pedal hard it does not want to shift correctly unless i back off the gas pedal some and then it will shift fine. I have had the transmission checked and it has no issues (transmission has be replaced with only about 80,000 miles on it). Also if i try to run the AC it really looses power. It currently does not have any diag codes when I have it scanned. So far I have replaced spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel filter, and a diode that I was getting a code for. I am just curious if there is something that could be causing the issue that will not report a code.
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Accent with about 96,000 miles on it. A couple of days ago it started losing power when I gave it gas, like it was dragging or gasping for air. I could barely get it to 60 on the highway unless going down hill and when going up even a low grade I could barely maintain 40 mph. I took it to Hyundai dealership and the mechanic confirmed it seemed to have a "suction" problem. After about 20 minutes I was told that the catalytic converter had broke apart and been sucked into the engine.
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My son has a 2012 F250 King Ranch, 6.7 L.
Little info: Last Friday the inter-cooler hose blew. We changed the hose this past Saturday. The truck ran great all weekend. Last night leaving for work it started to sputter and then died. Got the truck to crank, ran great no sputter, but something under the hood sounded off. We drove it all the way back home. Killed it, re-cranked it, everything was fine.
This morning cranked the truck, ran fine for 5 min then died and would not crank. We decided it needed new fuel filters. Replaced the fuel filters, truck now cranks and idles great. When you mash the gas at it revs up then sputters like it would die, when you let off the accelerator it catches up and idles fine again. It cant be too much wrong, it ran great all weekend.
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Accent 2008 (155,000 km) .... Walter pump, all belt, timing belt, pulley where changed @ 120,00Km when i bought the car.
**No code showing in dtc no check engine light**
I've been losing power uphill, RPM at 4,000 and and losing speed. I heard a loud sound coming from the front starting at 2,500 rpm and up (like if the exhaust air is struggling to get out), not sure who to explain that accelerating noise
On Flat surface it's slower accelerating up to 3,000 rpm with that loud sound. It's like the more i pressed on the gas pedal, the less acceleration i get.
**Running idle up to 4,000 rpm in park, no loud noise, engine running normal sound with no lack in acceleration in RPM**
2 weeks before I had 2 ignitions coil going bad at same time, i run it about 2 miles before changing them, and the exhaust/catalytic converter came hot and melted the plastic dust cover under the car near the catalytic converter.. Did I premature burn or plug that catalytic converter?
Would it be catalytic converter? Fuel pump? Fuel Filter..
I thought of buying a catalytic converter cleaner and put in fuel tank and up the intake..
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I have an Hyundai Accent Petrol 1.6L ABS.
While driving the other day suddenly the car started sputtering or jerking while on low rpm and after changing gears
the exhaust is also making sputtering sounds when on idle.
when I press the accelerator the sputters/jerks and then picks up rpm. the performance of the car does not seem to be affected but petrol mileage has fallen.
when I accelerate slowly then the sputtering/jerking is reduced and sometimes not present much. There is also a deep and heavy sound of the engine running heard inside the car (which has been present before the timing belt change)
I took the car to the workshop and attached the OBD.
the codes P0340 P0112 were present. we now erased the codes and the mechanic checked the sensor wire plugs for the cam sensor and air sensor saying it looks fine. on attaching the OBD again the codes were not present. However the sputtering/jerking continues. (the fuel pump and filter were also checked to be ok)
My Timing belt has been changed approximately a month back. My car does not run much (Approx 40kms a day)
My questions are
1. can a bad timing of the timing belt have anything to do with this and thus giving these codes?
2. Can there be something wrong with the exhaust due to which this problem is taking place?
3. what could be possibly wrong with the car?
4. Can this result in any damage to the engine?
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Recently bought a `01 Accent 5 speed.. First question . How do I tell if its the 1.5 or 1.6 ? That will really point me in a good start. Ha... Ok.. Check engine light is on and I found a paper in the glove box with some of the codes wrong with it.. The one I focused on was telling me the fuel system was to lean . blah blah blah... Dont remember the exact code as I felt that my research was good and I replaced the MAF sensor... Didnt clear the code...
Also it was sputtering quite a bit in all gears mainly at low rpms. I did change the fuel filter , checked plugs and wires etc.. Now I replaced the MAF sensor and it has not solved the problem.. Took it to have it rescanned and have been given codes p1127 and p0136 .. both seem to relate to the Bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor. question is I have saw the "upstream" sensor located right below the exhaust manifold but did not see a second sensor?
From what I have gathered sensor 1 does the most work, so I`m curious if these 2 sensors are interchangeable? Could I buy the downstream sensor and if that does not solve my problem , take it out on try it in the upstream sensor? Also do you really feel as though just changing that sensor will "cure" my sputtering issue? the car only has 88k on it and seems to be in good shape otherwise.. I really need this check engine light problem fixed so I can get inspection..
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3 times now in the last week, my 2000 accent has stalled. each time it was at a low idle, slow moving speed. I was rolling up to a red light twice, and gliding into a parking spot the other. There was no coughing or sputtering. It just stopped. Each time, after about 20minutes or so, the car fires right up. it happened twice today after about 4 miles of driving. If the car sits for a day without running (on an off day from work) its a bit hard to start sometimes, but not consistently. Does this sound like a Crankshaft position sensor? or possible a fuel filter?
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2001 GL 1.5 Litre. Car occasionally hesitates a little with AC off, but runs pretty well. But with the air conditioner on?
Stalls about 50% of time when backing with A/C on. From stoplights, sputters all the way through intersections with A/C on, sometimes backfires. On a few occasions, the Check Engine light will blink on and off while it's doing this. After it gains a little speed/rpm, though, it's all good again, light goes back off.
Had full tune-up just before we bought it 4,000 miles ago. Air filter clean. Not sensors, because the CEL goes back off by itself. What the heck? How could the A/C cause a backfire?
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A few days ago, my CEL came on when I got to work, I assumed it was a misfire because when I got off work it was off. Now, I just got to work and my CEL came on when I left my house. I have been noticing engine sputtering/wastegate when I'm around 2-3k rpm, hovering around 20-35mph, after that I don't notice it. I bought the car used at 39k miles, the 40k service, nor an oil change has been done since last september. (not sure if that's a factor). I've skimmed the forums and head it could possibly be the spark plugs/coil plugs/ or turbo.
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So I bought a used Accent last July (40k miles), and recently after I started to randomly lose my first gear about a month or so from driving it. Whenever I stop at a light the RPM will hover over one, but not go down. I thought at first it was some weird thing with the sensors as it only happened when I was low on gas, however now it does it every time I drive. I notice a lurch forward right before it does this.
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We have a 2012 camry with about 65,000 miles on it. Recently we've noticed that when the car is in a high gear (5th or 6th) and the RPMs are around 1000-1200 the car feels like its sputtering/shaking. almost like its in too low of a gear. Kind of feels like you're driving on a very rough road.....it happens when you're driving around 35-45mph with your foot barely on the gas. if i give it a little more gas to get the RPMs a little higher it's ok. other than this the car runs perfectly fine. Don't notice any issues on the highway. I don't have any CEL.
initially i thought it had something to do with the torque converter issue that folks were notified by in the mail. we already had the update done but that's not it. The more i research this i think it's probably a fuel/spark issue like dirty injector or bad wire.... I dont think its the trans.
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I have a 2013 Accent GL AT (Canadian spec). I recently had an oil change in which a Fram Xtra Guard was installed. However, when I reached my first hill with the new oil and filter, it sounded like the cars engine noise was different from before. It had become a low humming noise, almost like it was straining and didn't have enough power and would downshift later than usual. I changed the filter back to an OEM and still have the noise there, but not as bad.
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Bought my first Hyundai, a 2013 Accent last Saturday. Love almost everything about the vehicle.
It is equipped with the EcoBoost which I can turn on and off.
Noticing when I accelerate almost every time there is some initial acceleration and then a noticeable power loss. It's much worse when I'm accelerating through a turn.
Honestly it's hard to tell too much of a difference with the EcoBoost and AC off.
Also noticing the car really surges at times with the cruise control on. Obviously if I hit an incline it's going to boost a bit, but sometimes even on very minor inclines or straightaways the RPMS just fluctuate more than they seem to need to.
Wondering if this is normal for this engine and something I need to get used to. Coming from a Honda Civic I didn't experience this consistent power loss / fluctuation.
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I noticed that after turning off the ignition I could still operate my power windows for awhile. Why would this be?
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So I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent that has been a relatively good car for the 11 years I've owened it. About 2 months ago I got a flat tire, which I didn't notice until a passenger in another car told this while waiting at a stop light. I was so close to home (within a mile) that i decided to trek it slowly back. Made it back and a friend of mine put a donut on and I had the two front tires replaced the next day.
Within a week of having the tire changed I noticed several issues with the car. First, it was starting to make a very loud, almost grinding sound. Looked into whether or not tires had anything to do with it since I just had them changed. I pretty much now think its a wheel bearing. It seems to be coming from the right front passenger side. It gets louder as I speed up and also especially loud during left curves and turns.
But all that is background for my real problem. In addition to the above the transmission started acting up. At first I though it was the engine because the problem was initially just sputtering whenever I would slow the car down to a stop. I changed the spark plugs and wires but that didn't work. Then it started having problems shifting. Even going to 3rd now it can take a while, staying at a higher than normal rpm. And when it finally shifts it knocks hard. Only thing I did was have the transmission oil changed since it was about 40k miles past where Hyundai says it should have been done. That worked only slightly (maybe not at all). On top of that, there's also has an engine smell (like hot burnt oil) inside the car when I drive it for an extended amount of time. This was happening before and after the transmission oil change.
These are the first major issues I've had with this car. The only exception is that I've had a failed oxygen sensor twice but that was cheap to have repaired and both times the check engine light was on. It has not turned on once since this started happening. I've stopped driving the car long distances and especially over hills. I go 5 miles between home and work with it now. I was starting to think about getting another car before this happened but I'm still not ready to do that now.
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