Accent RB (2012+) :: Right Light Keeps Going Out
Sep 15, 2013
So, I recently purchased a new HID kit for my car, with a harness and power source from the battery and everything. But the problem is my right light keeps going out. I had trouble when I first installed it so I switched the ballast and it still had the same problem on the same side, so jiggled around with the ground for a little and it worked. Later it went out again and while driving it went back on and for the next two days it worked. It's out again now and I have yet to play around with it.
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So first time esc light came up on cluster was around 56k miles. No cruise control or ability to use obd2 port. No cel just esc light on..... Dealer fixed by replacing a blown fuse behind fuse panel. That lasted maybe 500 miles and esc light back on with same symptoms. I replaced fuse myself, which fixed it, just to last maybe 100 miles before coming back on again. Replaced fuse again and waiting to see how long it lasts. I will be going back to dealer to see what they come up with but not sure what is making it blow fuses all of a sudden and so frequently?
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I drive a 2014 model, and my electronics have been on the fritz.
The AC control backlights don't light up, my dimmer switch doesn't work (instrument cluster stuck on full brightness no matter the position I move the switch to), my front right yellow turn signal light doesn't light up, and my rear right tail light doesn't light up (I have replaced the bulbs on both, so they are not receiving current).
Does this sound like a blown fuse? If so, which one(s) should I look at?
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How many gallons do you have left when your light goes on? My car is a lil off topic I have a 2013 Rio but notice that the gas light came on and I still had 4 gallons left........
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It was cold this morning, about 34 degrees F. I get in my car and notice that TPMS light. Its still dark, and I'm running late to work, so I just walk around and do a cursory glance at all my tires with my lighter, they don't seem to be low. So I think maybe its because of the cold, but the light never came off after my 25 minute commute to work. I get out of my car, look around the tires, they look okay. I'll check the pressure after I get out of work.
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My check engine light just came on while driving home tonight. And there seems to be a weird rattly engine noise on the passenger side.
Just took the car to the mountains (800km round trip) all highway and got back Thursday night. Didn't drive yesterday, and today I took it out for a bit and it felt sort of loose... I don't know how else to explain it. Throttle didn't seem as responsive. I've only just hit the 6000km mark on it, and had the flash done at 4000km.
What in the world is wrong with my car? And now I can't even take it in til Tuesday because of the holiday.
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My 2012 will not idle. The diagnostic computer reported bad CAM SHAFT SENSOR. Changed the sensor but still will not idle. Engine light remains on.
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I think I might have a mod on my accent I just purchased used. The top brake light blinks a couple times when pressing the brake and then goes on solid. I have seen these in motorcycle and cars a few times. Is this something that came from the factory or is it a mod to the vehicle?
Also I noticed that the rear window sprayer shoots out windshield washer fluid about 20 ft out straight out the back of the vehicle. I guess its an anti tail gater mod.
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Driving car today and the engine light came on, so before going home I stopped at local garage and had it checked. this is what they got- first code P1445, second code P1000. Car is a 2012 Hyundai Accent automatic hatchback with approx. 40,000 km. (25,000 miles) bought in May of 2012.
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I have a 2012 accent with 28,000 miles and today. CEL appeared while coming to a red light. I run my laptop on it and code p0461 was
Current.
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My brake lights keeps going off and the stop fuse keeps blowing and when it blows the TRAC light turns on and stay on. I try to change all the brake light bulbs and the 15amp fuse that was blown but it blows again what could it be?
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Installing some fog light HID's and was wondering how to remove the front bumper.
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I got a 2012 Hyundai Accent SE manual 112000 mostly highway miles. For a month now I am getting the MIL on and P2191 code (System too lean at higher load bank1) after erasing the code it appeared again in 3-4 days. I replaced air filter check all valves and vacuum in air flow, changed to premium gas. Pipe that connected to the valve from EVAP system looks not damaged and valve works as intended. While changing spark plugs I noticed that all of them were quite charred. I am thinking to replace both O2 up/down stream sensors. Which not OEM sensors would be the best match for my Accent?
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I love my car 2012 Hyundai Accent GLS but once it hit 60K miles, the engine light came on and it has been eating gas. I get up to 160 miles per tank now. My MP fluctuates from 12-25 MPG. I literally watch it jump when I fill up the car, then a few miles later, it drops again. Code P2196 always comes up. (stuck rich)
Dealer advised me to do fuel system flush.
Dealer replaced upstream o2 Sensor
Dealer replaced Check Valve
New Spark Plugs last Fall due to hearing really loud spark knocking... and also re-gapped last week. Now I can hear them slightly again.
Engine light just came back on after almost 200 miles.
Reading some other threads- apparently this seems to be a known issue for my car.
I am wondering if I should try replacing the downstream o2 sensor.... OR consider trading my car.
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So sometime last week my check engine light came on. Took my 13 Accent to the dealership and they said the purge valve is to be replaced. Now my Accent pings when running 87 gas and I read that others (not necessarily Accent owners) who changed their purge valve noticed the pinging go away.
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I have a 2012 Accent GLS with premium package. So, this came with fog lights. Few months back, one of the fog lights got ripped of its place and the body shop said the hooks which hold the light are broken and whole bumper need to be replaced for the light to be attached and quote was given for around $750.
I contacted other small body shops to just stick the light with glue but no one accepted to do that.
I don't use those fog lights anyway. So, is it cheap in a way to remove the other fog light and just fill the fog light spots? When I say fill, I am not sure what those are called which exist in place of fog lights for a car with no fog lights. I think its better than just being with one fog light.
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I just bought a 2012 hyundia accent automatic two months ago with 92,000 miles on it. I put everything i had down on it so now I don't have a lot for warranty co-pay or anything. After two weeks of owning it i got a P0420 code and a light tapping noise. Well i was going to work (i drive up and down mountains) and when i headed up an incline my rpms jumped from three to five and lost all speed. I pulled into rest stop and was freaking out. Anyway after about an our of me looking i decided to just shake my car back and forth. I got in and pulled back onto interstate and the car was fine..except for a baffled sound now with light tapping. I cant figure why after it cooled it ran ok. Makes me wonder if i had bad gas or something. Well fast forward one month and now i am throwing P420, P0011, P0326,and using one quart of oil every 300 miles. I have done the oil change, injector cleaner, airfilter. I am gonna change the pcv valve today and see if that works.
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When I accelerate to merge onto the highway or pass my battery light blinks as well as my headlight flickering and a slight loss in power. My car has 140k miles on it, original battery which seems to test fine on my charger. I just change the spark plugs.
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I have rpm fluctuation when i put in idle after warming up the engine . I've done cleaning the throttle valve ,change the alternator and change battery.
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Just bought 2012 hyundai accent and not sure if I have air conditioning. The dealer wasn't sure but didn't think so. It has all the dials, heat works, defroster works, circulation button seems to work, but just air blows when I turn the dial to cold. If I have all this stuff, does that mean I have AC and its just not connected or takes forever to start to work (read about this issue on some forums). If I don't have AC would it be easy to install since I do have all this stuff?
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So, I just got home and turned off the ignition. I then accidentally clicked off ECO. When I went to press the button again, it lights up and it does on my dash as well, but once I let go of the button, they are both off. I thought this had something to do with the car being off, so I started it and I still couldn't get ECO to go on.
Am I doing something wrong or is it possible that the button is broken?
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