Accent RB (2012+) :: Recirc Turns Off After 5 Minutes
Jan 24, 2017
I just noticed yesterday that if I don't have A/C on and I select RECIRC, the RECIRC light goes out after 5 minutes, regardless of vent position. I "think" it also does this with A/C on unless I select MAX A/C.
None of my previous cars acted this way, and I don't see anything in the OM about it, other than to not use RECIRC for extended periods of time (which to me would be more than an hour).
It isn't a huge deal as I can just hit the switch again, but it is mildly annoying.
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Having problem with 2016 Accent Sport (or other model) idling rough after smooth driving for about 20 or so minutes? It has started doing this about a month after being purchased. About 700 miles or so on it) When in stick mode it smooths out and purrs like a kitten, but back in automatic mode it idles rough, with Active Eco on and off. I have an appointment to take it in to the dealership 5/7, but I wanted to see what the cause was.
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Found this out last night. On a manual AC/Heater 2008.
If you have the heater on front defrost and then push the recirculation button on/off 4-5 times, the recirc button light will start flashing and the AC button light comes on steady.
Push the AC button off and the defrost will run without the AC compressor. If you want the AC on at the same time then push the AC button.
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2002 B5 1.8T, 54,000 miles. When you turn on the A/C it blows hot air. After 10 or 15 minutes of driving it turns icy cold then sometimes returns to hot air.
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My 04 Chevy suburban blows cold for about 15 minutes then turns hot...sometimes it will turn back cold, but not lately
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I have one minor complaint with my A/C system. I always run it in recirc mode, but the Touareg A/C system always places it in auto-recirc, so I always have to press the recirc button everytime I start the car. Is there a way to keep the car in recirc mode between starts?
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I noticed that no matter whether it's on recirc or vent when I shut down the car, our '06 Touring's HVAC will always default to recirc when I turn it on. Is there a way to keep it from doing this? It drives me nuts, because I hate having recirc on.
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Yellow brake light turned on while driving in rain, then for some reason turned off. I had read somewhere this may be an indicator of wear on brake pads. I have a 90 mi. commute round trip, I will check again if this turns on and stays on. For now, it is off. what could be causing this?
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Any schematic of the vacuum lines for a 99 Ranger with the 2.5 motor? I don't mean the general overview decal under the hood, but rather one that specifically includes the HVAC lines. I have two problems... one being that I have no MAX A/C (recirc does not work) and the other being that the vac line is busted off the heater core isolation valve and I can't find the other end of it (the end that supplies vacuum to open the valve).
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It's starting to become A/C seasons down here and since my truck was new back in October I've not used it much.
When I hit the button to turn on the air conditioning the hvac system likes to enable recirc automatically. This really irritates me. I don't like when my machines do things on their own, assuming that I wanted the recirc on. Presumption is prob my worst pet peeve.
I don't ever have the system on auto, I don't ever use the system in any "auto" way. I set my preferred temp and select where I want the air to flow. If it's too warm I hit the A/C button. Why does the recirc come on by itself? How do I make it stop doing this? The 2011 truck I had never did this.
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I have a 2003 Accent with the 1.6 DOHC.
It has been fine, but now it is acting up. Car has about 90,000 miles on it. The engine will start fine, hot or cold out. Sometimes the car will idle fine and warm up, sometimes it will idle for a few minutes and then cut off, will not restart until engine cools off. No, it isnt getting hot.
You can start the car, keep your foot on the gas a little to keep it above 1000 rpm or so, and it is fine until it warms up. If you start the car, go a 100 yards and take your foot off the gas it will cut off and not restart until the engine cools.
I replaced the ISB or whatever that thing is called, no change. No check engine lights come on at all. I took the throttle body off and cleaned it with cleaner, seemed to work ok for a day, then the same thing all over again.
What should I check now, very frustrating, but the little thing gets great gas mileage.
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2006 Hyundai Accent
About two weeks ago I was told my tires were worn and I was experiencing what felt like a slight slipping sensation when turning corners on the highway. Mechanic chalked this up to my tires being worn. They checked them out and my passenger rear tire was significantly worn on the inside tread...
I replaced all four tires...I have checked the pressure and it is at 30psi as indicated on the inside of the driver side door.
Now when I'm driving on the highway I experience what can be described as a rocking sensation (as if you were on a boat) sometimes when driving straight and almost always when making left turns....once the rocking starts if I slightly turn the wheel to the right it goes away.
I'm thinking something with the rear passenger side is causing this as the compensation would appear on the drivers front (correct?!) and the worn tire gives it away...just wondering what component I should start looking at first and what cost I might be looking at.
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I'm having a problem with my mom's 2005 Accent. It starts up just fine when cold, and will run for 15-20 minutes just fine, sometimes longer. Then, usually as you're slowing down, the engine just turns off. No bogging, no sputter, just turns off as if someone turned the key. Sometimes it will start back right back up, more often, it will need to sit for 30 seconds to a minute, and then it will fire back up. After that, all bets are off. Sometimes it will run again for 10-15 minutes, sometimes it will idle rough and die. I'm leaning towards a coil pack, but I'm sick of throwing parts at this. The last time I got it to idle roughly, it threw a random misfire, and cylinder 1, 2, and 4 misfire codes. I've changed out (in rough order) MAP sensor, the fuel pump (no fuel filter in this model), TPS (threw code for this), spark plugs, and most recently the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I'm not sure how to test the coil packs.
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Ignition turns over, but no sound. There is power to lights, radio, etc. Tried a boost, thinking it was battery, but the boost was unsuccessful. Tried using the spare key but that was also unsuccessful.
The tow driver said it sounded like a fuse or clutch safety sensor. I also heard that it could be the battery leads. We're fairly new at fixing the car ourselves, learning as we go, so not knowing some otherwise basic things, like how to clean and tighten battery leads, what fuse to change, or what the heck a clutch safety sensor is.
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After the car has sat for awhile 1-2 hours, when I start it back up the engine coolant temp light comes on and remains on for 1-3 minutes. This happens regardless of the ambient temp outside. It can be 40 degrees up to 80 and it will still come on. This started a few months ago, I have drained and flushed the cooling system, and wondering id this may be an indication that my thermostat is faulty and needs to be changed.
2008 Accent 3 door 159K ....
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So I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L. My car will drive 1-2 miles then it dies. After I let it sit for about 10 minutes it starts up again. I am getting to the end of what I know to do. I have replaced the ECU, Main relay, most of the sensors, Fuel pump, and fuel filter. When I bring it in to get the codes for it all I get is sensor faults even though I have replaced them. I am going to let it run for a little while and see if I can feel any heat from any relays under the dash. I like this car but not sure what else I can do.
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After the -20 winter my 2009 Accent started burning oil at startup and after hard right turns. It was burning about 1 quart of oil per 500 miles. No codes ever appeared. I assumed that it was a pretty classic case of broken valve stem seals. Upon taking the valve cover off I found that there are two oil galleys leading back to the oil pan. One on the passenger side of the engine was exposed and had a large carbon deposit on the valve cover just above it indicating all the crankcase vapors were coming through that gallery and condensing. The galley was partially plugged. The other galley on the left side below the camshaft was completely plugged. Some cleaning first with a loop of welding wire and cleaning out the PCV chamber which was filled with oil has cleared up the problem. I followed with an oil change and then another change at 500 miles. I've used no oil in 1200 miles since the last change.
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Heard a wining noise from the front end when I accelerated about 4 days ago, fast forward to today - it kept getting worse and worse, turning into a grinding. The mechanic said to replace the power steering line and something else around it..
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