Accent RB (2012+) :: Poor Performance Under Load
Dec 28, 2015
This is a accent 2015 Sr poor performance under load and when I have passengers. This car is 1 month old. 1.6 lt.
View 4 RepliesThis is a accent 2015 Sr poor performance under load and when I have passengers. This car is 1 month old. 1.6 lt.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 Toyota Corolla LE that ran very well until about a month ago. It has about 146,000 miles on it. A month ago it started hesitating from a standstill and the engine ran extremely roughly when trying to move the car. But when I put it in low gear it did much better, although not great! When in Drive it barely moved the car at all and would frequently stop running completely.
When I took it to an auto parts store they hooked it up to their computer and it read out that I needed either spark pugs, spark plug wires, or a new coil. I have replaced the plugs, but that made little difference. I then took it to another auto repair place that told me that it was either a problems with valves, or a 'problems in the lower engine'. I don't know what that latter problems means but either way it sounds like it will be very expensive to fix.
Our car's don't have as great acceleration performance when hot / after having been driven for 30+ minutes?
View 6 Replies97 4.6.. So it would appear that I have the wild goose chase of codes. The major symptoms are rough idle and very poor performance. I started off by cleaning the egr valve and ports. Then I checked the egr valve itself and watched the valve open and close under a vacuum. I was suspecting the DPFE sensor but I wanted to trying something else first. I was under the Impression that if at idle you apply a vacuum to the egr valve it would cause the engine to "stumble and stall". I did this and there was no change in the way the engine was running. So now I'm lost as to where to go from here.
View 3 RepliesNew to the hyundai world. My belt is squealing under low rpm load. I want to change it out but I don't see how to? I am mechanical I just don't see a tensioner. How would i go about changing it?
View 1 RepliesMy 2012 Accent's 1.6L GDI engine has developed an engine rattle when under load and warmed up.
View 38 RepliesI've noticed lately that my mileage and performance of my 2012 GLS has gone down. I can hear a "clicking" sound from the right side of the motor when the engine is slightly under load almost like a cam shaft that's operating without oil. I've done all the obvious things like check fluid levels and the such. My car has about 130,000km or 80000 miles on it.
View 5 RepliesWe've got a 2012 Hyundai Accent GDI. I've been hearing the rattle "ping" when the engine is under load (accelerating hard or uphill). I've read that this is typical for these engines.
I took it to our local Hyundai dealership since it's still under the 60,000 mile warranty. They updated the computer settings and I put in a fuel additive to clean up deposits. They also told me to buy name brand gas from here on out (Exxon, Shell, Mobil) as these engines don't handle cheap gas well.
Now that I've given you enough of a backstory, here are my questions:
- For those that have experienced the rattle "ping", what did you find fixed the problem?
- Any tips or things to look out for when cleaning the throttle body etc?
I'm experiencing less torque and acceleration than I was getting when I first got the car. The car doesn't even have 1,000 miles on it yet. I'm wondering what is wrong with it. When I first got it, just pressing the gas half way would makes the tires spin till 6k rpm. Now the tires don't even spin while pressing it even further than 50% throttle. When I first got it, it had regular gas. Now I use 93 octane fuel. This should give it more power? I'm very confused as to why it was give so much and then now output so little.
My vehicle uses the Bridgestone Turanza tires.
This car has virtually every feature possible. BSM, Back Up Cam, LED DRL, leather, etc.
I've always owned Camry's. 1993, 2010, and now my 2013.
I have just changed my clutch and machined my flywheel on my 1.5ltr 16v dohc 2000 lc accent. I used all the correct trans fluid and refilled and bled the clutch fluid. It takes of from lights like a new car but if you put your foot down around 40kph it revs out a bit and does so through all gears untill you reach a bit of speed. What is going on?
View 11 RepliesMy wife and I just purchased a 2012 SEL front-wheel drive. Our first tank (mixed use) was 19 MPG. We took the vehicle on a roadtrip this weekend that was 95% highway driving on mostly flat Texas roads using cruise control as much as possible. Our best tank was 23.3 which was achieved driving 70-75 MPH on I-20. Is this consistent with what others are seeing? My mileage figures are at the link below. Note, all values are calculated by me, not the MFD that reads about 1 MPG high.
[URL]
I purchased 4 new low-resistance Michelin Fuel Savers tires at 68k miles for my 2012 Toyota Prius C. For 3 1/2 years and immediately before I had it new tires, I enjoyed excellent MPG and I admit I'm OCD with watching mpg screen enough to know my daily habits.
With this new tires and all tires are set 41PSI....I still get POOR mpg with no changes! I almost never reach 50mpg on any trips!Before new tires: My AM commute to work....always 53 to 56mpg, my PM commute to home, 52 or so.New tires: My AM commute to work....barely 43 mpg! maybe 45!, my PM almost never reach 40!
What gives! I e-mailed Toyota service dept, they said did I lose wheel cover? (WTF? It's the same cover I still have it!) then he said, they need to check into it for $150. No way I'm paying $150! that's like another tire! Ugh! What may be the cause? I purchased Mechilen Fuel Savers with LRR tires as recommended. I feel sick to my stomach every time I see piss-poor mpg. I've been driving with this new tires little over 1,000 miles already including 1 day trip to southern California (that trip, 37mpg and 41 back, where the same trips I took before always 54 average depending on the weather and wind directions)
After scouring through hundreds of threads on this forum (which is Awesome, BTW), it seems as if this misfire / rough idle thing is fairly common (which is scary!!). CEL is on steady. Had the codes pulled; P0301, P0302, P0303. At the recommendation of the mechanic, I had the plugs replaced...no improvement. He then replaced the ignition coils...no improvement. Just finished replacing the MAP sensor. This actually had a VERY temporary positive effect. However, after about 5 miles of driving, the misfiring returned. Took the car to the Hyundai dealership, and they acted as if they didn't want to fool with it. They referred me to a couple of local repair shops...????
View 8 RepliesI have a 2012 f150 stx 5.0 and I drive mostly city with a few highway miles. Why get this bad of gas mileage?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2012 6.7 with a Spartan tuner. Threw this code a few months ago. Reset everything, trucks runs great, no issues. Never had this code come up again. I've looked it up and it says, "Internal Control Module Torque Performance". I'm just not sure what this means.
View 2 RepliesSunday I received the dreaded DEF system fault message on my 2012 CC SRW SB FX4 with 7800 miles on it. Warned me that speed will be reduced to 50 MPH in 50 miles. I have a CTS Insight, so I checked for DTC's. First one was P2200 - NOx sensor circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 1), the second one was P204F - Reductant system performance (Bank 1).
After 50 miles it warned me that speed would be reduced to 50 MPH on next restart. Sure enough, Monday morning speed was limited to 50. I took it to the dealer, but I should have left it running. When the service guy started it, the fault had cleared and it no longer showed the P2200 NOx sensor code, although the P204f code was still there.
My question is, why in the world would Ford make it so that the code is cleared if the fault goes away, especially after putting you through the 50 MPH limit scenario?
Dealer did a reflash and said its OK now, but I'm not so sure. My trucks build date is 10/6/11. I read TSB 11-11-13 which states the NOx sensor module should be replaced for P2200 on trucks built before 10/11/11. Is that only for a persistent P2200?
Daughter's 09 Accent 86k miles making a very quick hiss when accelerating rapidly and/or uphill about a half second before first shift. Hiss stops noticeably before the shift happens. She reports a slight 'kickback' in the pedal, but I noticed no power loss when the passenger seat. No check engine light. Car has an aftermarket cruise. Sound seems to be coming from the right-ish side of the vehicle and outside the cabin. Doesn't occur under 'grandpa' driving conditions. Pretty much only when using the accelerator as a binary switch.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 hyundai accent 5 speed with 76k and a 1.5. the spark plug boots arc on all 4 plugs and can see a light blue line down the center of the wires also. But while idling you see nothing till u snap the throttle. Also driving while its under load you can really feel the miss in 3rd gear. Ok here"s what I've done I cleaned up all my grounds on motor and body ,also cleaned spark plug threads. i replaced wires with 5 different brands including factory wires and same thing. I've tried all kinds of different plugs from regular coppers to iridium and changing plug gaps with no change. the coil was replaced,crank sensor changed and does same thing.
View 11 Replies2002 Hyundia Accent -- 1.6 DOHC 2D
When I get to 2700-2900 RPM Under load my car will chug out (basically lose power all together for a brief second) then it will come back and chug out again. I am able to max out RPM's while doing this however under load it still chugs along. WHEN not under load it rev's up fine and purr's like a kitten.
So I went and got a new motor for this car same model as was in the car before a 1.6 DOHC. However upon replacing it (also attached still was the timing belt and clutch assembly, never taken off)
So it seems to be getting spark just fine. and I replaced the MAP sensor thinking it was a intake issue however still problem exists when I am under load between 2700 - 2900 RPM it bogs out for a second losing all power.
2008 Hyunda Accent, 5 speed, with high mileage. She claims it slips out of 5th gear when she's driving. They're on vacation, the car is in the shop, the shop is saying that it can't find the problem...
Apparently it slips out under load (in constant motion).
It seems that it only occurs when the transmission is hot, meaning the oil has less viscosity. The dealership apparently is saying they can't find anything wrong and she isn't making it up since she said she drove from Michigan last week with her hand on the shifter the entire time to keep it in gear. Dealer is saying they aren't going to just drive it around and around until it happens.
How modern cars are built these days. I know older cars had some synchro things that would wear and allow the shifter to pop out of gear, but I read that some Hyundais have cable driven shifters....at a loss.
It happens in 4th sometimes, too, and will also pop out even when leaning on the shifter.
I did see this thread, but was wondering if there was any additional information: [URL] .....
My '03 gives a rattle sound under load/acceleration conditions. This does not happen during the warm up period, so it appears that the engine runs lean under acceleration. There is no check engine light on for this. Approx 172k KM, (100k miles). The noise appears worse when it is hot/humid outside. I have run a can of Seafoam through it (half in the crankcase, half in the fuel line), and that doesn't seem to have worked. Therefore, I don't think that it is the injectors. Possibly fuel filter (still original)? Any easy way to test?
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