Accent RB (2012+) :: Noticeable Power Loss After Some Initial Acceleration
Jul 26, 2012
Bought my first Hyundai, a 2013 Accent last Saturday. Love almost everything about the vehicle.
It is equipped with the EcoBoost which I can turn on and off.
Noticing when I accelerate almost every time there is some initial acceleration and then a noticeable power loss. It's much worse when I'm accelerating through a turn.
Honestly it's hard to tell too much of a difference with the EcoBoost and AC off.
Also noticing the car really surges at times with the cruise control on. Obviously if I hit an incline it's going to boost a bit, but sometimes even on very minor inclines or straightaways the RPMS just fluctuate more than they seem to need to.
Wondering if this is normal for this engine and something I need to get used to. Coming from a Honda Civic I didn't experience this consistent power loss / fluctuation.
View 15 Replies
Advertisement
This noise sound as if an electric motor going off for a second only. It almost sounds as a CD changer changing cds but for a second only.
What is weird is that it only sounds when the car has been off, turn it on and I start accelerating to about 8-10mph. If I come to a complete stop at a stop light and accelerate again it will not sound. If i come to complete stop and put the car in park or N, it will not sound. You will only hear it on the first take off when the car has been off.
I would also like to point that I have manually shifted and this does not change a thing. The noise still comes on around 8-10mph even if I keep it in 1st gear.
Furthermore, I would also like to point out that the noise is is not loud. Chances are I will not hear if I have radio on at low levels or the A/C fan in mid to high.
Again, the sounds seems to come from the outside the cab and it sounds like an electric motor going off for about one second only.
The car is a 2012 l4 with about 60k miles on the odo.
View 7 Replies
When I accelerate to merge onto the highway or pass my battery light blinks as well as my headlight flickering and a slight loss in power. My car has 140k miles on it, original battery which seems to test fine on my charger. I just change the spark plugs.
View 9 Replies
Any known issues with coolant loss on these 1.6 motors?
Seems like I've lose a bit too much considering it's only got 30k on it now (bought it at 10k). Initially smelled coolant and complained but they said it was the undercoating burning off (new car coating) - which to an extent has been correct as I rarely smell it now.
That said, I have no visible leaks to my knowledge but it's still slowly losing coolant. I've yet to need to top it off as it's still between the hot and cold lines (yes I've checked on level ground and made sure to check both hot and cold for variance but it's clearly lower then when I bought it).
Now what scares me more then anything is that I notice a bit of smoke on start up. It does not smell like coolant but it's far more then I typically ever see from just moisture burning off.
I've had vehicles sit for months that don't smoke as much on start up. It will subside eventually but it just seems to be a rather excessive amount and unfortunately I can't tell if it is happening under acceleration, etc.
First though is coolant getting in / head gasket as the idle has been slightly rough....
View 6 Replies
My Accent has 89000km (about 54000 miles) and has been pinging under acceleration...tried higher octane gas with no improvement.
View 65 Replies
I have a 1998 C1500 Silverado, with the 4.3 vortec engine, with 88k miles.
Upon initial acceleration the truck stumbles, sometimes even dies when taking off. I have had the codes read, and have gotten a P0102 and a P0404. I have swapped the MAF and EGR Valve out with a known good ones from the parts store; cleaned the throttle body; looked for vacuum lines that could be the problem but can't find anything.
I have even changed out the fuel filter since the engine sounds like it is starving.
Also, the transmission doesn't want to shift unless I let up on the acceleration pedal. I can get up to about 55 MPH and the RPMs sky rocket before it shifts, and the engine begins to ping before shifting.
View 9 Replies
I have been experiencing pinging and crackling noises on acceleration from my vehicle it was purchased from the dealers May 2012. The problems started in October and I have been back and forth with the dealers for the same problems over and over and getting additional problems. Not to mention they keep saying that the problem is fixed and as I leave the compound I hear the noises.
I took it to have an independent scan from the dealer as it is now 5 months of run around with the issue not being resolved and I found out I have a bad ac compressor, steering rack and shock mount.
View 11 Replies
My gfs car (2012 accent) makes a rattle but more specifically it makes this rattle in about 3 gear under acceleration but not heavy acceleration (slow accelerate in a higher gear) at about 1500-2k rpm it makes a rattle and if i really get on it in the gear it keeps going, the second i let off then get back on (lightly) no noise but when you depress the pedal a little hard it does it again (auto trans by the way) I've heard of this before only issue is I don't remember where or who (useless, and wasn't a hyundai accent) anyway anything would be useful, car isn't under warranty so trying to stay out of dealership...
View 2 Replies
I have had my 2010 Prius 2010 for a year now. I have been taking my Prius to a full service car wash with the conveyor belt. They have always seemed ver Prius savvy. But the last couple of times, after getting in the car and driving away, the car seemed to hesitate upon initial acceleration. Then the problem goes away.
The last time I took it to this car wash, I sat in the car, because I only needed the express exterior wash. About a third of the way through, the instrument panel said "Low Traction Battery... put into Park" I did not obey the warning because I was afraid of putting it in Park while the conveyor belt system was pushing my Prius along. So I ignored it. By the end of the car wash, the engine had shut down. I had to start it up and drive out, and I got that same momentary, initial hesitation as I accelerated, like before. The hesitation went away after that.
View 19 Replies
I own a 2000 7.3 6 speed with 175,000 miles. I just bought it less than a month ago and it is my first diesel.
About a week ago I stepped on the gas and it just had nothing. I have a TS 6 position chip that I unplugged as soon as I noticed the loss in power. When I first bought the truck it was incredibly fast and now it has nothing to it at all. I have to have it higher in the RPM's to go up hills (especially when its not warmed up). If I push the pedal down it will sound the same, boost will get to about 14 (without chip) and the truck doesn't let out any smoke but it just doesnt have any power at all. I recently towed another vehicle on a trailer and it really struggled with it, more than I thought a diesel should.
When the chip was in, the truck would let out black smoke even after I noticed the loss in power. That made me think that the engine was getting enough fuel. I thought there could be a boost leak somewhere but it still builds 14 psi. However, I do not feel boost kick in at all! When I first got the truck it would only build around 14-15 stock but it felt a hell of a lot faster and I could feel when boost would really kick in. I took off my intake and looked at the turbo and the fins are in great shape and there is little to no play.
What the problem could be? I don't have very much money to start dumping parts into the truck and Im not sure what to do. I guess my questions would be:
1) Is it a boost leak, fuel problem, or something else?
2) Could a gelled filter give me these problems?
3) What should I do and where should I start?
View 3 Replies
A little background first on my 1999 Ford F350 7.3. A few months ago I noticed i had fuel in my coolant which lead me to a cracked injector cup. I replaced all 8 cups and since I had it apart, and I bought the truck used and didn't know what had been serviced, I replaced the injector o-rings, glow plugs, valve cover gaskets, and valve cover gasket wiring harnesses. Got it all back together and had been running great.
About a week ago I was parked with engine running and the stereo suddenly turned off. A few minutes later I turned the truck off and turned it back on about 10 minutes later and it wouldn't start. Batteries appeared dead so I jumped it and made it home. Took both batteries down to AutoZone and since they were under warranty got two new ones. Figured out my alternator was bad and not charging my batteries so I ordered a new one.
Up to this point truck has been running fine. Truck had sat in my driveway for the week while waiting for the alternator. While I was out of town my father in law went to use the truck and noticed it wouldn't start. He hooked some jumper cables up and got the truck started. He said as he drove off the truck had no power and smoke was pouring out the exhaust.
I charged the batteries and installed the new alternator. Truck starts great and seems to be idling normal. When I took it for a test drive it has no power when accelerating and black smoke pours out the exhaust. The truck will barely make it up any type of incline.
I thought maybe it was the injectors not firing. Wiring harnesses are plugged in and do not appear to be damaged. I did not remove the valve covers yet as it's not difficult but time consuming and I figured since I just replaced all of it that it should be ok. I did a buzz test and all injectors passed. I get no trouble codes or check engine light.
View 8 Replies
While driving on the freeway my car started to surge as if it was starving in fuel. I had to press more gas to go the same speed. My gas tank was at a 1/4 full so I pulled into the gas station to fill in gas. As I was leaving my car could not accelerate while pressing the gas pedal. I could floor the gas and it would go only five miles an hour! The engine temp was okay, no engine lights, and no weird smells. I was fortunate to be close to home and slowly made it letting cars pass me on the side. I called the road side service who towed my car to my dealer. They checked for codes, ran fuel injector cleaner twice through the system, checked the fuel pump, and the pressure on the fuel system, no problems. The third day they gave me a Sonata for a loaner and I allowed the service manager to drive my car to see if the problem reappeared. No problems found and I picked up my car today. The problem hasn't reappeared yet but I am keeping track of any rough acceleration or idle.
View 11 Replies
I have an 03 6.0 Power stroke. My problem all started the other day when I started to occasionally not get any boost on acceleration and lose of power and a lot of vibration like it's about to cut out but it got worse now today I drove it about 5 miles into town when I got to town I noticed a rough idle I got gas in a gas can not in the truck. I got back in to leave and I had absolutely no power at all the truck stalled out and it was very hard to start finally got it started and it runs really rough almost like it's going to shut off.
So when I started driving I would only make it about a mile or so with out it chocking out and having to let it site for a minute or two and start it back up and go another mile or 2 and have it do the same thing all the way home all the time I have vary little boost if any at all except for when I first pull out now oil pressure is good and engine never over heated some of the codes I have is an EGR code and a contribution balance code for several cylinders I was thinking possibly a maf sensor or a clogged egr not working right.
View 14 Replies
Occasionally I experience a temporary loss of power when I try to accelerate. I press on the accelerator and nothing happens -- then finally catches a second or two later. Usually it happens at lower speeds as when turning a corner in town or when climbing a hill.
View 2 Replies
I just had my front axels replaced. The Cv's were clicking. That problem was fixed.
Metal clunk at initial acceleration and hard braking (none during steering)...
View 11 Replies
Just rejoined this Ford gang after years absence. Used to own "The Muny Pit", a '79 F-150 4WD monster with a '69 429... constantly breaking something. Anyway, where to look on my '08 F-150 XLT 4WD with a 5.4, 83,000 miles. Searched the search bar for my title and found a post on an '00 Expedition describing similar issue than mine... for about 6 months now when I accelerate either from stop or a crawl; forward or reverse; more so when turning, but does do it wheels straight.
Upon initial acceleration I have this horrendous rumble / shudder in the truck, like the grinding metal bearing sound/feeling felt when the pinion bearing went out on my '79 (only felt it seconds before the 9" rear pumpkin exploded). Once rolling it stops. I have checked all wheel bearings.. I have check all the suspension joints... everything looks fine, no obvious issues. The only suspension mod I've done is a 1.5" leveling kit when brand new. On the Expedition two replys suggested changing the transmission/transfer case fluids claiming it cured their vehicles.
View 5 Replies
I was just curious what the best way to increase initial acceleration from a dead stop is for a 2009 F- 150 XLT with a 5.4 V-8.
View 14 Replies
My 2001 VW Passat 1.8T manual transmission is experiencing loss of power/hesitation during acceleration. Occasionally the check engine light will blink for about 10 seconds during this time. My valve cover gasket blew about 7 months ago. I had it replaced along with 2 ignition coils. Since then I have had replaced the other 2 coils and spark plugs because of this recurring problem. I have also replace the mass airflow sensor for the second time. The diagnostic check continually shows misfires in different cylinders for which I again tried replacing the coils. I have also received the codes for "fuel mixture too lean" as well as for too rich. What could be causing this?
View 4 Replies
I was cruising on the highway and tried to accelerate and no more power. Could feel engine losing power. After I shutdown the car and start again, car was fine.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2000 gmc jimmy 300.000 km 4.3 vortec .starts ok, even when cold idle smooth but when I accelerate past 2000 rpm it has a complete loss of power. I bought a fuel pressure tester key on 2 seconds 60 psi when I start the vehicle and running 55 psi. I took it on a road test it stays at 55 psi and has a hard acceleration and will go to 60 psi ,and then starts to break up my first question is how can I block off the return line to the tank, there's no rubber hose in any of the connections just steel lines and hard plastic with push connectors, is there a plug that you can buy or how I can block off the return to see if the pump will build pressure to 75 psi to 80 psi will this will tell me whether the pressure regulator is faulty or the fuel pump needs to be replaced.
I have a manual its a Haynes for chevy blazer gmc from 95 to 2004 it says with central sequential fuel injections (csefi) key on engine not running it should be approx 55-61 psi the engines running at idle it should decrease through 3 to 10 psi according to this manual i am within range but i have read on other posts that it should be 60-65 would you say that my 55 psi reading is okay? or should it be 60-65? also when i blocked the return line should i get a reading of 75 or higher? if the reading goes up does that mean that the fuel regulator is faulty? and if it doesn't go up does that confirm that the fuel pump is the issue?
View 3 Replies
I have a 04.5 GLI 1.8t, performance mods include, cone filter on the end of my maf, silicone TIP, Forge splitter, 3in custom tbe and unitronics stage 2
I started noticing this problem on the day I got the car tuned, I hadn't noticed it before hand. I replaced the spark plugs and it worked a little, but it continues to do it.
The problem: When I get on it at WOT under full boost, around 2500 rpms, the car loses all torque, misfires spits and sputters throughout the rpm range until about 5300 rpms then it all of a sudden has torque and pulls great.
I don't have any boost leaks that I know of along with vaccum leaks. There is no flashing cel or misfire code for my coil packs. Can this be a faulty n75 valve? if so what could fix it?
View 24 Replies
