Accent RB (2012+) :: Left Front Window Rapidly Clicks When Try To Raise And Lower Glass
Jul 13, 2015
I have a 2012 accent. Left front window rapidly clicks when I try to raise and lower glass and glass won't move.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2012 accent. Left front window rapidly clicks when I try to raise and lower glass and glass won't move.
View 2 RepliesI purchased a 1985 celica GTS, convertible, rear wheel drive. I am having a problem with the drivers side power window. I can raise and lower the window with a direct 12v battery hook up to either the lift motor or from the terminals that connect to the switch. The switch will lower the motor but not raise it. When activated to raise the window you can hear the motor enterguise but will not lift. I check the voltage at the switch and I am getting 12 volts. What should I check next?
View 3 RepliesI rented my car for a few days on Turo and it returned with this problem. The renter says nothing happened, who knows. When I raise or lower the window, there is a loud pop/crack that happens. It always happens at the same height. I can raise and lower the window for a couple inch around that point and reproduce that sound everythime.
View 6 Replies2010 Explorer XLT. The left rear power window lowers, but does not raise back up with the driver's master control switch (the 4 switch control on the driver's door). It does, however, lower and raise fine with the single switch on it's own rear door. Thinking it was a bad master switch module on the driver's door, I replaced it and the same thing still happens - works fine with it's own single switch but will only lower and not raise with the driver's door switch. All the other windows work fine. This has me totally stumped.
View 11 RepliesI bought my first vehicle last October, a '99 F-250 with a 6.8 V10. I later found out (AFTER hauling a big load of rocks in a dump trailer) that one of the bottom leaf springs was broken. So this winter I have been thinking on what I want to do about it when it warms up. This is pretty much on top of the "to do" list for my truck. I did make a thread about putting 1 ton springs under it, but I think I'll just stick with the regular 3/4 ton springs. So now this is where I have another question, and I think this pic will tell some of it:
Now I'm not sure if those rear springs are stock, but that rear end is way the heck up there! The truck itself is not level, the front looks to be correct height, but not the back. A buddy at school and I were talking about a leveling kit for the front. But the more I look at it, I think the rear end should come down. I don't want to get bigger tires, as I just put brand new Transforce AT's on the back and plan to put new ones on the front in the near future.
Another question of mine is, would this have been a truck ordered just for pulling a camper? It has holes for a fifth wheel hitch in the bed, the rear end sits high, and it didn't come with a tow package. The PO told me that he put the receiver hitch on it. I'm fixing up stuff on it one thing at a time. Springs just happen to be next on the list.
My front left turn signal was hyper flashing. I replaced all four bulbs to no avail. Just to satisfy my curiosity I switched the bulb holder from left to right sides. The hyper flash followed to the right side. Turns out that the bulb holder shorted out. I had it replaced under warranty yesterday.
View 2 RepliesNoticed a squeaking like noise coming from their from front drivers side wheel when turning left? Seems to only do it right after driving my car after it has been sitting for a bit. Can't make it in to Hyundai until next week, and I'm a little worried.
View 10 RepliesI need to know the Location of the turn signal relay, my left front bilnker is super dim, and the rear left blinker is normal brightness as well as they blink rapidly. I've replaced both front and back bulbs as well as the flasher and turn signal fuses, so I am assuming the last and final one is the turn signal relay.
View 2 RepliesDid some searching but didn't find anything on how to replace the driver's side front window glass. Someone decided they liked my GPS unit more than I did while I was at work. Smashed out my driver's side window and took it. Now to replace that window. I did manage to find a replacement window.
Pulled off the door panel and now I'm trying to install the glass. Anything I try though, I can't seem to get the glass back into the tracks. Does anything inside the door need to be removed before I can install the glass back into the tracks? Such as the window motor/regulator assembly? On the left side of the drivers door towards the bottom, there is also another small alignment track. Does this need to be removed as well?
Currently I have a 1998 Buick Century Custom having turn signal issues.
The front left blinker is not blinking. Understandably, with this malfunction, the rear left blinker blinks rapidly when the turn signal switch is in the left turn signal position. However, when I put the hazard lights on, BOTH rear blinkers blink normally as does the front right blinker.
When the headlights are on, the amber-colored blinker bulb remains lit (left front). The right side front and rear blinkers work great.
I have checked the fuses, replaced the bulb and cleaned the socket of the front left blinker and still have no results. While my next guess would be that the flasher unit is the problem, I don't believe the rear, or front right blinkers would blink if that was the problem.
I have myself changed the oil and filter in my Accent 2013 for the 1st time; after the change everything looked fine, no alarm lights, oil level is OK, no leakages, etc.
However. when I turn off the car I hear beeps coming from the engine, I hear relay clicks and after some seconds the sounds disappear.
When I had the oil changed at an oil shop, this didn't happen. Again, I see no alarms on the driver panel.
On my wife's 2012 SE Camry tonight there was a build up of frost on the inside of the front windshield. The windows weren't left open and there wasn't any water left in the car that I know about. We did get a couple inches of snow that morning/previous night but, I would expect the frost to be on the exterior of the window only and not both sides. I drive a 2010 jetta tdi and have worked the past 3 days in steady rain constantly getting in and out with wet shoes and my vehicle has no frost on the inside of the windshield. Call dealership? Seal issues? Heater core?
View 14 Replies2003 Santa Fe 2.7L
When I turn off the A/C my Temperature Control unit clicks rapidly with the A/C indicator lights turning on and off. It's almost like something was turning it rapidly between on and off. Maybe a short in the controls somewhere. I may try and take it apart and see if I can find an intermittent connection in the switch or a short or loose connection or bad wiring somewhere in the unit.
The other option is just to replace the whole A/C Heater Temp Ctrl. unit.
Today on my 1-year-old RX 350:
moonroof makes a slight "ratcheting" sound when I raise or lower it,though Roof slides open and closed perfectly.
I had a 2013 Elantra that I traded in for my new Accent. The last 6 months that I had my Elantra, the transmission was slipping like crazy. Mostly when it was cold, and at lower speeds. I started noticing this while the car only had 20000 km's on it. Personally, I think it had something to do with contaminants in the fluid. I told the dealership this but they just kind of dismissed it and said it probably just had something to do with the ECU messing up the shift timing or something to that extent. They made an "adjustment" but the problem didn't go away.
It got me thinking that since an automatic transmission has so many parts, wouldn't it be fair to say that metal particles from all these newly machined pieces and edges could have some initial deterioration causing a build-up of contaminants? I think a transmission flush would've resolved the issue. That's a lot cheaper than a full tranny swap down the road while the car is still under warranty, isn't it Hyundai? It's their problem now though.
2012 Hyundai Accent
30,000 Miles
Replaced cap
Changed hoses and antifreeze
Leak seems isolated to the upper hose from radiator to filler neck.
Dealership did pressure test and changed clamps with no success.
Not overheating.
I noticed the smell of antifreeze one day and upon inspection came across a small puddle of antifreeze on the lower plastic under body. The car only has 30k on it and decided it wasn't the hoses. I noticed spots of antifreeze around the filler neck and thought it might be the cap. It was a cheap part so changed that out for a new one and still had puddles. I thought it might be the hoses after all and decided why not change all the hoses and antifreeze. Still the puddles are there which only leaves me to believe that it's the filler neck. Unbolted the filler neck for inspection and the inlet/outlet have no issues. I'm thinking it might be where the cap sits on the filler neck. It only seems to happen when it's under pressure. At start up there is no issues. I tried to let it heat up and build pressure to see if I can spot the leak but no joy. I'm guess it happens while under throttle.
So today, when I rolled down my passenger window (2007 Sonata GLS) to talk to someone, I heard a popping sound and the window refused to roll back up. I got the car home and started tearing into the door panel (okay, not literally). By viewing different threads here, I have the door panel off, outside handle is off, all screws loosened (including the 3 for the door latch) and am trying to get the inner sheet metal panel off.
From everything I've read, you need to roll the window up the whole way in order to get the inner panel off; however I cannot get the window up the whole way! By lifting up on it, I have it about 2/3 raised, but it won't budge any more. I have been able to see that the window cable is broken (which explains why the window won't raise), but am at a loss on how to proceed. I'm leery of trying to force the window up any more. I'm tempted to try to pry the inner panel back enough to get the two bolts holding the window loose, but don't want to force *that* either.
So, how to get the window all the way up? And/or the inner door panel off?
So I decided to drive my car this morning after almost 2 weeks of it sitting in the garage, got to the parking structure, pushed the button to lower the windows so I can swipe my auto parking card and it rolled down fine. Then tried to close the window and heard this metallic clicking sound and the window wouldn't raise. Called the dealership and drove right to them to look into it. Now I am stuck with a Jetta until my car is fixed.
View 11 RepliesBy way of brief background, I have a 2004 Touareg with 180,000 miles. I recently noticed that the front left air suspension was sitting lower than normal after the truck had been sitting. I discovered that the shock was leaking air and in the subsequent days began getting "Running Gear Workshop" warnings on the MFI. I got both the orange ones and a red one that instructs you to stop immediately. It reset after parking, and restarting. In summary, I knew I had a problem.
Today, I stopped at the dealer and they confirmed that the fitting at the top of the air shock was in deed leaking. Attached is a photograph showing the fitting. It is important that you inspect these fittings ASAP if you have air suspension. There is a TSB that references corrosion and possible failure. See TSB 43 07 01
Initially I was told that the entire air shock would have to be replaced but after doing research and with the assistance of Spockcat, I discovered that the fitting can be replaced assuming the female portion of the connection is not corroded. Replacing the entire air shock assembly is expensive. Apparently, there have been some instances where the fitting has failed during driving and bad things happen.
My son recently purchased this truck in Jan., 2017, upon inspecting the vehicle we noticed the rear driver and passenger windows would not raise or lower. When I asked the seller about this his comments were " I believe it to be a master switch issue". Ok so no big deal, I purchased and replaced the master switch with no luck. I didn't spend much time on it due to the cold weather. After digging into this a little more I'm very confused now. So here is where I currently am at with this issue.
Power is not the problem, I am reading approx. 14V at the master switch and at the rear door switches. I've checked and have power when the switch is toggled to simulate raising and lower of the window (approx. 12 to 13.5V). The window lift motors have been taken out and cleaned and inspected. The motor will operate properly with a 12V battery pack (both motors, driver and passenger side). I have power all the way to the motor itself, slightly less than 14Volts.
I can raise and lower the window in the truck by plugging into the back of the female connector with the outside power source but not with the power supply from the truck. I have continuity between the power(blue) and ground(black) wires at the switches. So this is where I am at, also just a reminder the front windows and door locks work fine. Just a side note, this truck has aftermarket mirrors on it so that branch of the harness is left hanging.
My 2007 Hyundai Accent gs shakes really bad while I am accelerating at lower speeds. I thought the front driver's side tire was loose or possibly had an air bubble, but could find no evidence of such. The rim and the tie rod looks fine, but it is shaking bad. It pretty much stops shaking when i reach higher speeds (60+mph), but when I am stopped and need to accelerate or turn it gets frightening.
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