Im curious if this is normal or not. When I'm driving and I put my car into neutral to coast, the idle speed is at around 900rpm. When I come to a stop, the idle will drop to around 650rpm. Is this a design feature? I wish the rpm would drop more to conserve on gas while I'm coasting!
View 7 RepliesI noticed on 5 different occasions so far this year that my idle speed will increase to around 1100 rpms when sitting at idle for more than a few min. Last summer it did it while running a/c, and today it did it with cold weather. The rpms are usually at 550, what happens is the pcm will decide to increase idle speed for no reason at all. Start driving it, and the next time at idle it will stop doing it, a couple times it went down to 550rpms, then went back up to 1100rpms. I recently changed the spark plugs, the air filter is clean, and runs good. I have a code scanner, no pending codes. I have 53k miles. I wonder what could cause this?
View 6 RepliesI just bought a 2012 hyundia accent automatic two months ago with 92,000 miles on it. I put everything i had down on it so now I don't have a lot for warranty co-pay or anything. After two weeks of owning it i got a P0420 code and a light tapping noise. Well i was going to work (i drive up and down mountains) and when i headed up an incline my rpms jumped from three to five and lost all speed. I pulled into rest stop and was freaking out. Anyway after about an our of me looking i decided to just shake my car back and forth. I got in and pulled back onto interstate and the car was fine..except for a baffled sound now with light tapping. I cant figure why after it cooled it ran ok. Makes me wonder if i had bad gas or something. Well fast forward one month and now i am throwing P420, P0011, P0326,and using one quart of oil every 300 miles. I have done the oil change, injector cleaner, airfilter. I am gonna change the pcv valve today and see if that works.
View 4 Repliesi have accent 2000. RPMs goes up when car is in neutral. Why is this?
View 3 RepliesIn my 98 Ford Ranger, 4 cyl. manual, was driving up a 6% grade on the freeway, about 60mph for about ten minutes when i reached the top and began on a downhill grade. i let off the gas and put it in neutral to coast and then i looked down and it had stalled in neutral. i put it in gear to jump start it, it wouldn't fire back up. so i pulled to the shoulder. it wouldn't key start either. towed to mechanic, code read cam sensor. he also did a comp test and # 2 and 3 cyl were lacking comp. so the mechanic thinks the lack of comp is more serious than just the cam sensor, he thinks it might be the head. so my question is, can the cam sensor get far enough out of time so there would be no comp?
View 19 RepliesI'm very puzzled by how prius (2008) decides whether to use gas when I coast with neutral (I only do that if there is a long stretch of the road that is going down the hill). Same roads, same driving style, but sometimes, the gas usage goes to 0 but sometime it continue to use gas. Sometimes if you just let it in the gear a little longer or just press the gas pedal, it would go 0 after switching to neutral. There is no consistency that I can come up with the best method to get it to not to use gas and just slide using the gravity and momentum.
I can understand if it has to fill up the battery but when it uses gas at neutral, no transfer of energy among all parts. The diagram (wheel, engines, battery) shows standstill but it still uses gas. I don't have air on and turn the fan to the lowest and it doesn't make any difference.
A few conclusions I had:
It will always use a little gas at highway speed (55 to 70mph).
It appears to use gas at higher humidity (not sure but the MPG is higher when it's humid).
I've got a 2004 1.8t GLI. I recently developed a problem where the car will idle very poorly at random times, where it goes down to 500, jumps up to a 1000, and continues that and eventually levels out. Also, occasionally while I am driving and put it in neutral to coast, the engine will die. This has also happened at stop signs/red lights. I had it scanned via VCDS, and the only two codes that popped up were running lean, and an n249 code. I already changed the MAF out, changed the alternator. Where to go next.
View 1 RepliesAt the beginning December I put my brand new winter tires (general altimax arctics) on the factory steelies and put them on the car gearing up for the snow. Not to long after the install I notice that I was getting a very strong engine vibration starting at 3,000 rpms and it stopped around 3,100 rpms no matter what gear I was in. At first I though it maybe just the cold affecting the engine. Well...
Last week I put my summer rims and tires back on for the 1,600 mile trip to MO and back, and like magic, no more heavy vibrations. Smooth acceleration throughout the normal driving rpm range. I just changed the oil and tranny fluids Tuesday after we got back and with the warmer weather the car is running smooth as silk. Still an awesome car with awesome mileage and couldn't be happier.
Have a 2001 wolfs-burg 1.8t, has about 220k miles on it, i know, its a lot. Right now, the check engine light has been on for a few months and the idle is very weird. It goes up and down in neutral from 800-1300 rpms and sometimes i smell gas. Also the triangle with an '!' and circle around it yellow light comes on some times now. I heard it could be MAF or a vacuum leak. A mechanic is going to check it out soon...
View 10 RepliesI am having issues with my 2003 F150 4.6L truck. It just happened today when driving home. It started fine and then when I increased the speed and the rpms went up to about 2000rpms, the engine seemed to slip into neutral. I stepped on the gas but the truck would not accelerate, it was just coasting. I pulled over to the side of the road and came to a stop, but didn't shut off the engine.
After a few seconds, I proceeded to give it some gas, and it engaged in gear and accelerated...until I got to about 25mph & rpms increased to about 2000 again. It did the same exact thing....seemed to shift back to neutral so that I could not accelerate. I had to keep pulling over to come to a stop, and then slowly proceed again. I wasn't too far from home & I made it. What this issue could be?
I got an old 1989 F-150, manual, in-line 6 engine, with an 8-foot bed. I use it for hauling landscaping equipment, as i am starting a business. i will likely start hauling trailers with it this summer, but I also just want the engine to give me more power.
What are some things I could do to up the HP, or a better truck in general. I'm not looking to make it into a 350Hp monster, just get a little more out of it. What can I replace or add that would do this?
First, the idle dies on me when i put it in neutral, or gets stuck at 2500rpms. is this a vacuum leak, or the idle-air control valve?
My mom owns a 1993 Passat (V6). It has recently caused her endless frustration and she has paid many dollars, which she cannot afford, for "repairs" that haven't fixed anything. She describes the symptoms:
"I am driving along at highway speeds and the car suddenly starts coughing, sputtering, and lurching resulting in only being able to coast along at a low speed. Pressing the accelerator is no use. Intermittently, the power comes back, but eventually this syndrome results in an "overheat-like smell" and the car must be shut off. After resting for a little while the car restarts and runs normally before starting this behavior again."
She has now paid hundreds of dollars to a tech who admits he doesn't have all the VW diagnostic equipment, but who says he thinks he has found the problem. Do these symptoms sound like any known issues...
So I just drove my 85 to san francisco and back to Los Angles this weekend to visit my girlfriend and i had high oil pressure all the way until i blew my valve cover gasket.
So i fixed it finally today and it ran fine for a couple blocks and then my rpms shot up to about 3000 rpm and wont come down at idle speed and the car wants to keep going while in drive.
Its a 2.4l 22re EFI
2008 accent. My check engine light came on this morning on my way to work. All of a sudden, while turning onto a street, the CEL light flashed and came on in the car. I noticed that when idling my RPM's are sitting just under 1000 and it will drop to about 500 then come back up around 1000 for a couple seconds before dropping again to close to 500. On takeoff the engine rattles and seems very boggy and slow to take off. Once I am at a higher RPM and on my way, the shaking stops and car drives as normal.
Like I said, it's a 2008 sport model, standard transmission and about 78K kms on it.
I've got a 2012 GLS manual with about 400 miles that now has a noise that concerns me. At just over 1500 rpms there is a rattling noise that sounds like its coming from the rear and underneath the vehicle. It sounds like metal vibrating. I think it could be the exhaust but I am not sure. It didn't do it on the test drive and it is fairly intermittent.
What it could be and if it might be normal? Should I take it in and get it checked out or would that be a waste of time?
Occasionally, randomly, and unpredictably when accelerating from a slow speed coast I get no power response when I press down on the accelerator. It's as if the engine has stalled, but it has not. When the accelerator is held down for a few seconds (maybe 3 to 7) power comes back with a rush. Examples:
1. Making a U turn from a left turn late. Accelerate slowly forward, take foot off gas as the turn is initiated, press down on gas to accelerate out of the turn and get no immediate power response.
2. Making a left turn into a suicide lane. Accelerate to cross 2 traffic lanes, let off gas and coast slowly forward in the suicide lane while waiting for oncoming traffic to clear, traffic clears, press down on gas and get to response. Continue to press slowly down--no response. Hold the accelerator half or 3/4 down, power surges back after a few seconds.
3. Rolling slowly down a long left turn lane with foot off gas timing oncoming traffic, traffic clears, press down on gas to initiate the turn, no response. Let up on gas and press down again, no response, let up an press down again and car reacts normally.
Occurrences of this problem have been very random. I have spent a good deal of time in vacant parking lots trying to cause the problem to occur without any luck even though I know well the conditions under which it happens. I have left the car with the dealer but, of course, they can't observe the problem either. I have driven nearly 1000 miles without an incident and then had 2 occurrences within 4 miles of each other. I have about 5000 miles on the car and have logged 17 incidents.
Loosing power in traffic is, of course, dangerous. I was about to initiate action under California's Lemon Law when I went to England for 3 weeks in Sept. I rented an Audi A1 and to my surprise I experienced a very similar problem, but it happened much more often. An example would be entering a roundabout, letting up on the accelerator while looking at directional signs, reapplying accelerator pressure and getting no response. Unlike the Hyundai I didn't seem to lose all power, but couldn't get any acceleration. The Hyundai engine is the 4 cylinder turbo and has an electronic throttle. I don't know what the Audi had by way of mechanics. I'm at a complete loss; is there something I don't understand about electronic throttles? I don't have a clue about the source of this problem, but I know I need to get it resolved before I get rear ended.
Had a first-time issue with my car today. Background, 2010 II bought in June, just short of 15K miles, never had any kind of mechanical issue.
While en route to work this morning, I was about halfway into my 15 minute drive to work, when I noticed my engine was idling very high, I would guess 2500 rpms. It started doing it while I was driving around 35 MPH, then continued doing it while I stopped at a traffic light, and continued when I continued driving to a speed around 50 MPH. The high idle while stopped was not transferred to the wheels, so it was not a safety issue as it would be in other cars.
When I got back up to 50, curious to try something, I hit the ECO mode button and the car returned to normal. I took ECO back off and the car was still fine. I had no further problems.
I would point out that this morning was about the coldest temp that the car has experienced. Outside temp ranged from 7 to 10 degrees.
I installed the TurboKits CAI kit a few weeks ago. Installation went smoothly, and the latest kit has a modification to the box that fits our Accent's air snorkel. On cars with automatic transmissions, I had to cut out a notch from the bottom of the box to clear the transmission, but I doubt that this affects the air flow to the filter.
However, I have a big problem with the sound. The transmission often shifts at very low RPMs, and the CAI makes a very loud burble when this occurs. If I shift into a lower gear using the semi-manual mode, then the sound goes away. I realize that CAIs make a louder sound when you put your foot into it, but I find the sound a little over-the-top (especially considering that when the sound comes on, the engine is producing very little power at this part of the power band).
So, it's not really a problem with the CAI itself, more with the car's TCU. Unfortunately, it's too annoying for me, so I'll be reverting back to the original air intake system, and selling the TurboKits CAI.
I just bought a new Accent. It seems to slow it's self down at low speed when not accelerating. In other words, it does'nt coast freely. Could this be a sticking brake caliper or a transaxle problem? Could it be related to the slippery road condtions feature on/off?
View 12 RepliesWe have a 2012 Nissan Altima. There have been 3 times that it would not start -all times were after a long drive and a trip to the coast! Battery is fine. Nissan dealership could find nothing wrong. Why this is happening ? Is it possible this is a censor /salt problem?
View 4 RepliesIs it possible to disable the speed sensing autolock feature on the Accent?
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