Accent RB (2012+) :: Hyundai Does Not Go Over 3000 RPM
Dec 12, 2011
Like the title says the Rpm doesn't go over 3000. It's the second time the car does that, I'm driving for a good 5 minutes and I just do a normal stop at a red light and when I try to speed up doesn't go upper then 3000 rpm, I try the 1st gear, 2sd gear,.... until the 6th one and also the neutral... no more then 3000 rpm... Try to turn off the car , turn it back on , same thing. I don't have the engine light on. The fastest i can go it's 85KM maybe 90KM down a hill...:P On 5th Gear.
This time I took a video of it I will upload it today or tomorrow.
Last time i just leave the car in the parking lot the morning after everything was great I went to the dealership and he basicly told me "no engine light, no problem". It's a 6 speed manual and the GL 2012. A brand new car .... I was hopping a bit more from it.... What could be the problem?
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Last week I put my summer rims and tires back on for the 1,600 mile trip to MO and back, and like magic, no more heavy vibrations. Smooth acceleration throughout the normal driving rpm range. I just changed the oil and tranny fluids Tuesday after we got back and with the warmer weather the car is running smooth as silk. Still an awesome car with awesome mileage and couldn't be happier.
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Like the title says the Rpm doesn't go over 3000. This problem came up all of a sudden. I thought maybe the gas filter was a t fault so I changed it and no change. I went to my usual mechanic and he found the catilizer was all clogged up. After taking the cat off the engine started pissing oil all over the place. In other words the engine was shot. So he find a new engine with only 4000 km on it for $500. I said great put it in. After the install same problem. RPM won't go over 3000. He changed the ECM still no go. What could be the problem?
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1.- Spark plugs (replaced them same NGK but I didn't gaped them, same result)
2.- Fuel injectors (removed them, cleaned them and installed in different order, same result)
3.- IGN coils (measure resistance, swap them in different places, same result)
4.- Checked most of the sensors including TPS, Crankshaft PS, MAF, Camshaft PS and nothing.
5.- I checked for any type of vacuum leak and I couldn't find one
After all that troubleshooting I cleaned the codes, started the car again and I have the same problem with no check engine lights on except that sometimes I would get a "running rich" code.
I also noticed that the air intake is LOUD like a performance air intake, is that something normal on the accent? (I checked the air filter and its not clogged FYI). I could only think of:
Gap spark plugs to .035
check timing belt
check fuel filter (I don't think so)
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I drove it for about a week and then it stalled out completely. Rpm wouldn't go over about 2,000 and if I tried to drive I wouldn't go over about 10mph. I took it into the local shop. Replaced all kinds of fuel sensors, spark plug coils, and the main computer, and I think the fuel pump (all of which got fried). The error codes are all fixed and the car idles just fine. Only problem, when you put it in gear to drive it almost immediately bogs down, rpm stays below 2k (still) and eventually it will totally stall out.
The shop is now saying they think it's the catalytic converter - but they aren't sure. The car idles smoothly now, no error codes. But as soon as you try to drive it barely moves. It feels like there's a governor on the engine or like there's not enough fuel getting through. What to try next.
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I have an hyundi accent 1997 and the headlights won't turn off.i have had new fuses, relays and on/off the stalk.the only way to turn them off is to take out the fuse which is a pain. Someone has suggested install a switch across the fusible link but didn't have the details for me to follow.
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'02 Hyundai Accent, 165K miles... My route to work is six miles of secondary roads and city streets (25-40 mph), followed by 16 miles of interstate highway (65-70 mph), then another nine miles of secondary roads and city streets.
I have noticed only recently (last couple of weeks) that when I get to the end of the interstate leg in either direction, as I wait for the light at the end of the ramp, my oil light will flicker (sometimes very faintly) if I leave my foot on the clutch. If I get into neutral and release the clutch, the light stays off. It will do that at two more stops in rapid succession, but by the time I am at the last traffic light or stop sign of the trip, it has stopped flickering regardless whether the clutch is in or out.
Oil is recently changed and at proper level.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent which pops out of gear when I am driving in 4th or 5th. This started 2 months ago, in 4th, but happened in 5th while on a trip from Maryland to Michigan July 30. I took it to the 1st Hyundai dealership and a sales rep drove it and confirmed the problem but said it was safe to drive if I kept my hand on the gear shift and held it in gear. After a while of driving I could not even hold it in 5th, and I drove all the way from Ann Arbor to Baltimore with it in 4th, my hand holding it in gear all the way.
I drove immediately to the dealership where I bought it, and the "mechanic" did not experience the pop out. On the way home from the dealership, it popped out 3 times in a 12 mile trip. I took it to another dealership, same result. I am not comfortable driving this car, especially since I have to keep one hand on the wheel and one hand on the gear shift knob if I am in 4th or 5th. The car is still under warranty.
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My 2000 Hyundai Accent has no power to anything. I checked the battery and it is good. I cleaned the terminals
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If you drive less than 6000 or maybe even less than 3000 miles a year, how often should one change the oil on the car? Or don't bother with time interval but mileage as recommended for the make and model? I'm not sure there's a recommendation for time on the make & model, I'll check sometime.
Car in question is a Hyundai Accent 2009
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I get a strange noise when I shit gear & press the accelerator..... the sound is as if something is knocking.....
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