Accent RB (2012+) :: High Idle Noise When Start The Car
Mar 18, 2015
I just picked up a 2014 Accent GLS and I have a question about it, this being my first Hyundai. When I start the car it has what to me is an unnaturally high idle noise. For the first minute or so it idles around 2000rpms then slowly works its way down. There is also a loud almost clicking noise from the engine. It has just under 3k miles on it so it's still a new engine. Is this something I should be concerned about or is it just the tenancy of this particular vehicle?
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I got in my car today and realized it was making a whining noise, kinda like the whine of a super charger, I don't hear it at idle but when I accelerate or rev it in neutral it gets louder and higher pitched. Friend had this problem in his Mercedes and he said it was a bad belt.
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Is it just my car, or is it everyone else too? Is it just the thin wheels or is it a lose steering wheel thing? is it fixable or what?
is it possible to tell the dealer to tighten my steering wheel or something? Accent 2012 GLS
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I have rpm fluctuation when i put in idle after warming up the engine . I've done cleaning the throttle valve ,change the alternator and change battery.
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I have a 2013 Accent and have installing driving lights. I am looking for the correct high beam wire on the driver's side on the headlight assembly. I will then run this to a relay so that when I turn on my highs, the driving lights will come on. I have tried to locate the correct wire but the one wire that is hot when the highs are on, is still hot when the car is off as well as the lights.
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I just bought a 2002 Accent L 5sp with 37,000 miles. It ran great for a couple hours, then started hesitating/bogging over half throttle. I also noticed the idle was a bit high at this time. Suspecting a dirty throttle position sensor, I repeatedly pressed the accelerator pedal to the floor for 15 seconds with the engine off.(this will sometimes clean gunk off the contacts inside the tps) I drove the car again, and now the symptoms changed. Now it has a hesitation under half throttle, and accelerates cleanly above that. Car has not and is not misfiring. I am on the right track with the tps sensor here?
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I was driving and heard a loud SNAP and now there is a constant sound of wind like a fan on high.
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My 2012 will not idle. The diagnostic computer reported bad CAM SHAFT SENSOR. Changed the sensor but still will not idle. Engine light remains on.
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Im curious if this is normal or not. When I'm driving and I put my car into neutral to coast, the idle speed is at around 900rpm. When I come to a stop, the idle will drop to around 650rpm. Is this a design feature? I wish the rpm would drop more to conserve on gas while I'm coasting!
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Sometimes when I stand at idle, the engine seems to vibrate more than usual. I looked at the RPM gauge and it didn't move at all, it's at roughly 1000-1100 RPM when it occurs. Is it something I should show to the dealer?
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I bought my 2012 Accent a few months ago. I have been noticing that when its cold it has a bit of a rough idle. Nothing bad, no reving, but just a general mild shaking. No check engine light either. It happens in park, reverse, neutral, and drive. It stops and runs smooth after a few mins of driving. Since I bought it I have been using Top Tier gas and a bottle of gumout at oil change. Could it be just the way the engine is, since it is a small 4cyl? Like I said its not bad or affecting the way it drives, just seems strange to me.
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While driving on the freeway my car started to surge as if it was starving in fuel. I had to press more gas to go the same speed. My gas tank was at a 1/4 full so I pulled into the gas station to fill in gas. As I was leaving my car could not accelerate while pressing the gas pedal. I could floor the gas and it would go only five miles an hour! The engine temp was okay, no engine lights, and no weird smells. I was fortunate to be close to home and slowly made it letting cars pass me on the side. I called the road side service who towed my car to my dealer. They checked for codes, ran fuel injector cleaner twice through the system, checked the fuel pump, and the pressure on the fuel system, no problems. The third day they gave me a Sonata for a loaner and I allowed the service manager to drive my car to see if the problem reappeared. No problems found and I picked up my car today. The problem hasn't reappeared yet but I am keeping track of any rough acceleration or idle.
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Got my Accent on June 30th, has 8500km on it already and I love my car.
Recently, I've noticed a sound coming from the passenger side when stopped at lights or when I've just parked. Best description would be a bit like a crackle (liquidy/whistly type of sound). Only happens when the A/C/defogger is on.
It's not very noticeable, I only hear it when I don't have the radio on, but it's been bothering me. I found a few posts about a rattle, but from what I can remember, it's not really a rattle.
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I just recently bought my wife a 2013 Accent GS HB to Drive with 11k on the odometer and we have noticed what I think is excessive vibration at idle and small changes in RPM (Not like Hunting but on a smaller scale). Is this normal? I have driven the Prius for about a year now and I just think I'm a little too sensitive going from an engine that doesn't run at idle or at stops to one that does. I read other owners having the same experience, and to me it feels like a possible motor mount. At speed it's fine but I was just curious. We love the car regardless but it's still something that we wonder is normal.
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I have rpm stalls then comes back every 2 seconds at idle After one hour driving . Whitout any error code and no check engine . I checked all the sensors and even changed alternator and throttle body completely. No I suspect to crankshaft position sensor .
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Noticed this to be a problem with our older 2011 Accent, now with the 2012 Accent.
The car has a rough idle usually in mornings, it seems like it is going to stall at stops, it also has a tough time accelerating.
The computer scan does not show there is anything wrong until the problem becomes worse.
This is what I have discovered through the 2011 Accent. Car will stall at stops. Very inconvenient in rush hour traffic. Until they replace the Crankshaft Point Censor, the problem would not go away.
I would insist on looking at this rather than replacing sparkplugs or having any other service performed if one is experiencing these same symptoms. The good thing is it is under warranty.
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I have a 2012 Accent with about 83,000km. Back in the summer, I'd noticed an issue with it squealing when I first started driving it after it had been sat overnight or any extended period of time. After 3 trips to the dealership, they finally determined it was the serpentine belt and replaced it which did work. However, now a couple months since that, the noice is back and worse than ever. This is how every morning starts with the car now:
Reverse off the drive, press on breaks and hear a groan as I do so but no squeal. Adjust to 'drive' and accelerate and instantly hear a very high pitched squealing which continues until either a minute or so into driving or I drive faster than 50km/h, whichever comes first.
The level of noise it's making now is becoming unbearable. It's embarrassing and I'm worried something is seriously wrong. Just my luck too, the warranty ran out on the 18th of this month. I could probably catch a recording of the noise if needed.
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When I start my car now, it will idle up to about 1900 rpm, then idle down from there (even when engine is warm!). Also, I drove about 30 minutes, and a guy in a lancer decided he wanted to race me, but it seemed like I wasn't getting all the power I should! I tested this theory in an empty parking lot, where I found that my tires wouldn't brake free even at high RPM with stage1. This has never happened before, and I am a little worried at this point. My mod list is in my cig below in case your wondering, of if that makes a difference. What should I look for.
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I have just recently acquired an 01 Accent with the 1.6L and have had a few problems with it. It has about 112,000 miles on it and at about 109,000 it had the following services performed by the previous owner (reputable shop did the work)
-New battery
-New timing belt kit
-New water pump
-New valve cover gasket
-New plugs
-New belts
-New front pads
-New front rotors
-New rear wheel cylinders
-New front CV axles
-New tires all around
-Alignment
Now since I got it with about 111,000 miles on it, it ran and drove great until I had to put a new alternator on it as well as having to take the center console and automatic shift lever out to repair the wires for the O/D button. Car wouldn't shift into high gear. The problem I am having now is the car will crank but it will not start. Not even a sputter. I drove the car to and from work the day previous and then went out and started it to go to work in the morning and it started fine and ran fine for a minute or two then it just died like I turned the key off. No spitting or sputtering like it was running out of gas just died completely. Checked a few fuses and such and really not sure where to go from here because I don't have a code reader and don't wanna just throw parts at it, I would rather troubleshoot the problem.
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I have a weird sound from my car air condition, i just need to check if all Rb`s have the same sound or just me. When the air condition is on and car RPM between 850 & 1000, A quite VOoOm sound is heard and you can feel some vibration under your feet. when rpm is more than 1000 the sound disappear, the sound comes only when AC is ON. I start investigating the noise and i when i open the hood and put my hands on the pipes Low and high of the AC, i feel this sound and vibration inside the pipes, i tried to keep the pipes a bit away from the body by putting some rubber, the sound and vibration decreased. why such sound appear at low RPM? Every thing in the AC is normal. I went to the dealer service center and they though it was the AC compressor, and change it, but the sound still there.
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The other night on my way home, I flipped on the high beams and the low beams didn't shut off. Flash to pass still works, and pushing in on the end of the stem turns the low beams off as well.
Having the column switch apart, is it possible this could be fixed without having to pull the steering wheel? Or, am I better off just spending the hundred dollars of so and putting in a new part?
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