Accent RB (2012+) :: Engine Vibration Starting At 3000 RPMs And Stopped Around 3100 RPMs
Apr 4, 2013
At the beginning December I put my brand new winter tires (general altimax arctics) on the factory steelies and put them on the car gearing up for the snow. Not to long after the install I notice that I was getting a very strong engine vibration starting at 3,000 rpms and it stopped around 3,100 rpms no matter what gear I was in. At first I though it maybe just the cold affecting the engine. Well...
Last week I put my summer rims and tires back on for the 1,600 mile trip to MO and back, and like magic, no more heavy vibrations. Smooth acceleration throughout the normal driving rpm range. I just changed the oil and tranny fluids Tuesday after we got back and with the warmer weather the car is running smooth as silk. Still an awesome car with awesome mileage and couldn't be happier.
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I recently purchased a 2013 elantra.
I have noticed that there is engine vibration and noise felt in car and pedal when accelerating at around 2500-3000 rpm's before it shifts. Is this normal behavior? It just does not seem as smooth as it should be. I have only put about 600 miles on the car.
It has been very cold, but it does not go away after warming up.
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I have a 2001 accent with a 1.6 .... It won't rev over 3000rpm's. It does not have any codes being set. If I unplug the IAC it will rev up just like normal. I tried replacing the IAC, TPS, and swapped ECM and nothing has changed it. I tested continuity of the IAC circuit to ECM and it tests good. Tested ground circuit and it tests good. Have correct voltage at sensor. Not sure what else to look at.
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I have a 2000 b5 wagon with a 2.8 5spd with 200k on it .... Its slammed on coils and i get this squealing in reverse i dont know what it is i just rebuilt the front end ie control arms... also have a nasty vibration from 1000rpms to 3000 rpms could that be engine mounts/snub mount?
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When I start the car and its cold outside the car is shaking like a leaf for about 1 minute and when I arrive at 3000rpm there is like a vibration in the steering and in the pedals.
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I own a Ford Ranger 2003, 5spd 6 cyl. My problem is when I'm driving and the engine is revving above 3000 rom's. It begins to sputter and buck as if the engine is running out of gas. It only lasts a few seconds. It ends as quickly as it starts. It does not occur each time when driving above 3000 rpms. My mechanic took the truck for a test ride and of course he could not find anything wrong. His advise was to wait until it got worse. I would rather solve the problem now. It is difficult and dangerous when trying to pass vehicles on the road.
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2002 Elantra engine is revving up to 3000 rpms when in neutral or park. I changed the Throttle Position sensor and it went right back to revving up. Code read P0121. What might be causing this? Seems like I get one thing fixed and then another code shows up..
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I've been getting a blinking engine check light.. I pulled all the codes:
P0050: H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
P0155: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sen 1
P0304: cylinder 4 Misfire detected
P0688: ECM/PCM Power relay sensor circuit
I've had the car sitting for awhile because I lost my job and didn't have any money to roll it around much.
I just changed out the spark plugs and two of these had a white coating on them.. I was hoping this would take care of the misfire after I replaced them. I also bought a new battery because mine had lost charge a few times.
The Car will run with an engine check light, but if I go past 2500-3000 rpms then it will start blinking (which means don't drive it )
The oil has been sitting in it for about 2 months, so I'm about to go change that and I'm hoping this will allow me to drive it without issues.
Any of these codes thrown and know what they could be? Which O2 sensor (like a link to a website that sells them). Trying to get this thing running again.
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2006 Explorer with a perplexing issue that I am scratching my head over. When engine revs to around 3000 RPM, there is a click that sounds like it is under the dash, and the ABS, traction control, and airbag lights come on; if the headlights are on, the dash lights around the a/c controls go out, and sometimes (but not every time) the speedometer and odometer drop to zero. Also, the overhead lighting, if on, goes out. The engine does not appear to be affected. After about 1 second, another click, and everything returns to normal. This happens either while driving or if in park and revving engine. Is this possibly a relay tripping? And if so, why is it triggered by 3000 RPMs?
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2002 F-350SD V10 Automatic. Running down the road with no load or with load. First gauges bottom out, next overspeed light starts flashing, engine goes to 3000 RPM on it's own. Stays that way until I shut off then restart. Sometimes it does this several times in one mile.
Second trick, again driving along, all gauges stay up but engine just stops. Got to set dead for 5 minutes before it will start. The shop says on the first problem this happens: Voltage goes way low then goes way high then everything starts failing. We changed battery but no luck. Got to be down line from battery.
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I've got a 2012 GLS manual with about 400 miles that now has a noise that concerns me. At just over 1500 rpms there is a rattling noise that sounds like its coming from the rear and underneath the vehicle. It sounds like metal vibrating. I think it could be the exhaust but I am not sure. It didn't do it on the test drive and it is fairly intermittent.
What it could be and if it might be normal? Should I take it in and get it checked out or would that be a waste of time?
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Im curious if this is normal or not. When I'm driving and I put my car into neutral to coast, the idle speed is at around 900rpm. When I come to a stop, the idle will drop to around 650rpm. Is this a design feature? I wish the rpm would drop more to conserve on gas while I'm coasting!
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I installed the TurboKits CAI kit a few weeks ago. Installation went smoothly, and the latest kit has a modification to the box that fits our Accent's air snorkel. On cars with automatic transmissions, I had to cut out a notch from the bottom of the box to clear the transmission, but I doubt that this affects the air flow to the filter.
However, I have a big problem with the sound. The transmission often shifts at very low RPMs, and the CAI makes a very loud burble when this occurs. If I shift into a lower gear using the semi-manual mode, then the sound goes away. I realize that CAIs make a louder sound when you put your foot into it, but I find the sound a little over-the-top (especially considering that when the sound comes on, the engine is producing very little power at this part of the power band).
So, it's not really a problem with the CAI itself, more with the car's TCU. Unfortunately, it's too annoying for me, so I'll be reverting back to the original air intake system, and selling the TurboKits CAI.
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Let's say I'm going from zero to forty, my RPMs will hit over 3000, but when it shifts, the RPMS will drop down to 2000-ish really hard, making the car jerk. It's not a smooth drop, it's like a split second. Upon acceleration there is also a very rapid knocking sound. There's no lights on my instrument cluster.
This trouble all started after I had my alternator die, then having the car towed a few months back. Ever since then this problem has been getting worse. Wat this could be?
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I just bought a 2012 hyundia accent automatic two months ago with 92,000 miles on it. I put everything i had down on it so now I don't have a lot for warranty co-pay or anything. After two weeks of owning it i got a P0420 code and a light tapping noise. Well i was going to work (i drive up and down mountains) and when i headed up an incline my rpms jumped from three to five and lost all speed. I pulled into rest stop and was freaking out. Anyway after about an our of me looking i decided to just shake my car back and forth. I got in and pulled back onto interstate and the car was fine..except for a baffled sound now with light tapping. I cant figure why after it cooled it ran ok. Makes me wonder if i had bad gas or something. Well fast forward one month and now i am throwing P420, P0011, P0326,and using one quart of oil every 300 miles. I have done the oil change, injector cleaner, airfilter. I am gonna change the pcv valve today and see if that works.
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I'm in the military overseas and having a starting problem with my 2006 Ford Five Hundred. When the weather is cold, around 45 degrees F or lower the car starts OK however within about a second the RPM's drop between 400 and 500 and the engine starts to stumble. After about 3 to 4 seconds the RPM's gradually increase to around 1300-1400 RPM and is OK at that point.
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So I just drove my 85 to san francisco and back to Los Angles this weekend to visit my girlfriend and i had high oil pressure all the way until i blew my valve cover gasket.
So i fixed it finally today and it ran fine for a couple blocks and then my rpms shot up to about 3000 rpm and wont come down at idle speed and the car wants to keep going while in drive.
Its a 2.4l 22re EFI
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Symptoms- won't rev over 3000-3500 rpm's, upon acceleration (especially uphill) seems to struggle and won't accelerate much at all, seems as if trans changes fine. BTW, throwing no codes at present.
What I have already tried...new air filter, new fuel filter, had cat. check (was told stopped up but when removed found it was not and truck did the same even with cat. off), o2 sensor (upstream) replaced, battery disconnected to reset computer.
After reset of computer, runs a little better but still not good. Seems to start if you accelerate to quickly or when truck reaches around 40-45 mph.
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My oil pressure gauge jumps all over the place when I get over 3000 rpms. At lower rpms it is in the normal range and the engine sounds ok. How can I tell if this is the oil pump or the sending unit or the gauge? This is a 1980 CJ5 with a 151ci 4 cylinder.
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I have a 01 b5.5 Passat. When I'm in tiptronic and I'm about to hit 3000 rpms, a really off noise goes off and it's like a grinding sound.... Like when your car doesn't want to go to the next gear!
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Last night when accelerating from 40 to 60 mph I felt a "whoosh" and then the RMPs went to 3000 when I had my foot on the pedal. They dropped to 1200 if I let off. This morning the car would shift into reverse, but punching the accelerator did nothing. Other gears are fine. I rolled out of the drive, stopped at the mech and diagnostics showed only a bad speed sensor. I saw a post elesewhere that had a similar issue in 2006, same model Toyota Sienna 2000 xle. Mech pricing the transmission replacement. Could it just be malfunctioning speed sensor sending bad data to the ECM?
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