Accent RB (2012+) :: Engine Starts Normally But Cannot Accelerate
Oct 14, 2012
I drives grand Avega (new accent). I had a problem on my car. on instrument cluster there were no indication P,N,D,R and speedometer didn't indicate. Engine able to start normally but can't accelerate it seems like A/T transmit ion on higher shift.
Before that happened I installed a LED for additional lamp on door and I use /jumper a power from behind of fuse box.
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I have a squeaking sound that's coming out of my car when I accelerate and it has been persistent for the past few weeks. I'd like to fix it myself if possible. It seems like it's just a loose belt, but I'm not sure. If I don't have a lift, jack, or car mechanic experience is it reasonable to think that I could figure it out safely? I'm relatively good with my hands and at figuring things out. Are there any serious risks of damage to myself or the car from me tampering with the belts?
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Since about 5000 km, I have had a knocking metal rattling sound happening when I accelerate up a hill or a slight incline. It has happened a few times on flat road as well just more prevalent on the uphill battles. Now I assumed it was jus something loose that was rattling since I installed a cold air intake and had installed hid lights(I thought the ballast was banging on something). I tried and tried to find the rattle but I had no success. I read up on here about other people suffering the same problem and that running higher octane gas would solve it well I tried 89 and it was still there just not as much and I recently started using 91 and its gone haven't heard it at all.
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One morning I went to start my 2000 Accent, 1.5L Auto and the engine couldn't get going. I had road service come look at it and they said the problem was the fuel pump, I then got the car towed home. I changed the fuel pump and everything was working great again. I then changed the fuel filter, air filter, oil filter and flushed/refilled the oil. I used the car very lightly for a few days and had no problems.
Then yesterday I took the car about a 30 min drive, when on a main road my engine begun loosing power and I couldn't accelerate, as if the engine was not getting fuel. I managed to pull over safely and after about 30 mins of not getting anywhere I decided to hit around my fuel tank/pump with my club lock many times and what do you know the car starts and I manage to drive it about 25 mins, I was almost home when the same thing happened. I pulled over, waited, hit the tank and finally drove all the way home.
When I originally changed the fuel pump everything seemed fine, the plastic pump housing and everything attached to it appeared in great condition. So my hunch is that the problem would be where the fuel actually enters the engine block? The way that everything works fine until driving for roughly 25 mins makes me think the problem may be dependent on the temperature of the engine, given that's the main variable that changes?
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I own a hyundai accent 2000 GLS, i have recently replaced the ECM wiring and a brand new ignition coil, however the engine still sputters when i try to accelerate in higher gears, my mechanic told me that the engine mounting bushes need replacement. is it one of the causes? the sparks plugs are new, fuel pump is working fine.
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My engine has been making a ticking sound when it starts and when i hit the gas the ticking sounds stays there but go faster depending on my rpms and before it would go away after the engine got warm but now its here to stay. What it could it i feel like sound is hitting against the acceleration cable.
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2012 2.5l engine pings softly when I accelerate from a stop. I reported this at my last dealer service and the service manager recommended using Top Tier gas. He said it would take a few tanks to clean everything out. I'm happy to report that the car accelerates much more smoothly and my mileage has improved marginally. But the ping still exists. Engine is not throwing any codes (no check engine light).
On another note, the engine makes a growling sound on cold starts. I did some digging and found a TSB that addresses that issue. Could the engine pinging be related? I have about 4k miles before the bumper-to-bumper warranty runs out.
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When engine is cold it starts fine, when hot from driving (e.g. the engine's temperature display's needle is in the middle) i cannot start it unless i try 3-4 LONG keys. What can it be? Where should i start?
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Recently bought a 2001 Accent that has been experiencing a 'rough idle' for the last few weeks. Basically, after I've driven the car for a few minutes (from a cold engine position) and then stop at a stop light or stop sign, I can hear the engine get louder and the car starts to vibrate slightly, after I've driven for about 15 minutes at higher speeds and then stop again I can actually see the steering wheel shaking when I take my hands off of it. If i put the car in park when I am stopped and the engine is on, the idle calms down quite a bit. The weird part is that when I first start driving the car in the morning, the rough idle problem doesn't happen until about 5 minutes of steady driving - so when the engine is colder I don't experience the problem, The problem is not that serious, and Ive already brought it into a dealer who cleaned out fuel injection, gave me a major tune up and replaced all the spark plugs, but the problem still persists. I am gonna bring it back to them but they seem a bit lost to be honest. Other than this the car is driving normally when I am not idling.
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On occasion - not frequently - I'll notice the gasoline engine kicking in when I'm in ECO/EV mode with plenty of EV battery left. Today it happened on a relatively flat street, going maybe 30 mph, without the a/c or anything else on, and about 7 miles left on the EV battery indicator. In less than 30 seconds it went back to pure EV and the gasoline engine never kicked in again.
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My wife has 2012 Camry with 23K.
Right now the service engine soon light blinks as the car starts up. Is it a matter of dealer plugging something into clear code? What will the dealer want to service?
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I have a 2012 3.5 eco boost. It has 82,000 miles. I just purchased a large travel trailer. That is the first thing I have ever towed. When I was accelerating onto the interstate the engine started making a chirping noise.( not the normal turbo whistle). It went away when the rpms came down, and now every time I accelerate, it makes the same noise around 2000-2500 under load.
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My wife had her car go off today while driving. Prior to this happening, she had switched off the engine while in a gas station, with the gear in D. After driving about 13kms more, the car goes off while in motion and doesn't restart immediately. When it finally does, it shudders until finally stabilizing. Could it possibly be due to the single act of switching off while in D gear? The car is a 2013 accent GLS.
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Of all the manual transmission gasoline engine cars/trucks I've driven before, RB Accent has the least amount of engine braking regardless of engine RPM. Did Hyundai program throttle to stay open while gas pedal is off for smoother driving?
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I recently got a 2013 Hyundai Accent and am wondering about what a 'normal' running engine sounds like. (it sounds way different than my '98' Elantra) It drives smooth but if I drive slow , it almost sounds like an up-down or rotating engine sound (up and down swell?) Also, when it's idling it sounds like the computer is always adjusting it?? Or something like that. Just want to make sure mine in fine. (84,000km on it.)
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I have an accent rb 2012 with 243215 km in its storyteller I used the total synthetic 10w40 oil and I noticed that my engine Consumes oil with a drain was another missing 0.7 liter I roll with a 8000 km oil change , this is normal or not !!
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I bought my Hyundai new in late 2011. No problems with the car (other than no spare tire???) until just out of the warranty (63,000). Had a noticeable drop in power on the highway. No warning lights. Drove another 100 miles with power intermittently dropping. Next day engine light comes on. $800 later I have a new high pressure fuel pump. All seems well. after a few weeks, I notice that the car seems to be revving when I depress the clutch to change gears, like up to 4000 rpm's. If I leave the clutch in for a few seconds it will begin to decrease. But if I shift right into gear as I have done for the last 35 years of driving, it is not smooth, jerky. This seems to happen mostly going into 2,3, and 4th gear, always going up. It never happens when downshifting. I tried tapping the brakes when shifting up, and sometimes it does seems to drop the rpm's. What it might be. It probably is related to the work that was done, but I don't really trust the dealer and want to have a little info going in.
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When I first got my Accent a few weeks a go I thought this car just had unique braking functions with the ABS valve, but after driving it every day for a few weeks I think that perhaps the problem is the way the car downshifts.
Whenever I am braking and the car downshifts to 2nd gear at around 25MPH I feel the engine bog down, almost as if you were downshifting at too high of an RPM. However it only happens if I am braking slowly, when I need to brake harder I don't seem to notice it, either because it doesn't do it or because I can't feel it over the more pronounced forward momentum.
I verified that it does seem to be the engine or transmission, because if I brake with the car in neutral it won't do it. So my question would be is this just a normal function of this car, or should I take it in to be checked out?
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My car wont start properly. I have push button start & now the majority off the time the engine struggles to turn over. The starter motor is fine as it revs the engine to around 500 rpm when it toys to turn over but it seems like The engine isn't getting enough fuel or air & stutterers & hesitates. The weird thing is that once its started the car doesn't miss a beat. What it maybe? I have just replaced the sparkplugs, fuel filter & air fitter as part of my 60,000 service I have the car booked into my local dealership but they cant get me in for 2 weeks. I'm a little worried but its probably something small.
I have been lucky enough to catch the car doing it on video & here are 3 links to my youtube videos. On 2 of the videos the fuel is low, however, there is still 10 litres in the tank & this has also been happening at various fuel heels & out door temps.
VID 20130626 140221 - YouTube
VID 20130626 144651 - YouTube
VID 20130626 154933 - YouTube
I have checked a few things out but I cannot diagnose the problem. I believe the first 2 videos you will notice the car shaking a fair bit. Pay close attention to the car revs when starting.
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My check engine light just came on while driving home tonight. And there seems to be a weird rattly engine noise on the passenger side.
Just took the car to the mountains (800km round trip) all highway and got back Thursday night. Didn't drive yesterday, and today I took it out for a bit and it felt sort of loose... I don't know how else to explain it. Throttle didn't seem as responsive. I've only just hit the 6000km mark on it, and had the flash done at 4000km.
What in the world is wrong with my car? And now I can't even take it in til Tuesday because of the holiday.
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While i'm driving the engine I think will shake or jump for a while then stop. Or when i'm at a red light and stopped.
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