Accent RB (2012+) :: Engine Bogs Down When Downshifts To 2nd Gear At Around 25 MPH
Feb 18, 2013
When I first got my Accent a few weeks a go I thought this car just had unique braking functions with the ABS valve, but after driving it every day for a few weeks I think that perhaps the problem is the way the car downshifts.
Whenever I am braking and the car downshifts to 2nd gear at around 25MPH I feel the engine bog down, almost as if you were downshifting at too high of an RPM. However it only happens if I am braking slowly, when I need to brake harder I don't seem to notice it, either because it doesn't do it or because I can't feel it over the more pronounced forward momentum.
I verified that it does seem to be the engine or transmission, because if I brake with the car in neutral it won't do it. So my question would be is this just a normal function of this car, or should I take it in to be checked out?
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Bought a 2013, had been in a flood, couldn't see any sign anywhere of water level or damage, had 12,400 miles and noticed engine ping/detonation when engine lugs, have changed to mid grade and that works but every time I go back to 87 octane it starts back up.....also, I have noticed a bog down of the engine when I just barely give it any gas and if I keep the accelerator in that exact same spot, it eventually jumps into like a surge...
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Back in July some time I went out to my Accent (00' 1.5L) to go to work and it didn't want to turn over. Normally it's quick to start. So I turned off the A/C and it started right up. I went about my way. The next day, same thing happened. I thought it might be a camshaft position sensor, figured I'd be ok and headed to work. Got about 2 miles from the house and it died. So I pull over and try to start, no dice. Can't get it to start to save my life. We have it towed to the house and park it. This happened about 3 days before we closed on a new house, and having other cars we decided this needed to stay on the back burner. About a month later, I do some troubleshooting (not enough) and decide that the fuel pump is bad. I don't hear it coming on when I try to start the car. So, I replaced it. Turn the key, still no noise from the fuel pump. So, I leave it sitting for a couple of more months. During this time I've done more research than I care to admit regarding this car. I find out there's a Fuel Pump Check under the hood. I checked all relays/fuses before replacing the fuel pump. But didn't thing to test the fuel pump check. My loss there.
So, Saturday was a nice day I spent about 5 hours with my father and brother-in-law working on the car. First thing we do is Put 12v to it and the fuel pump comes right to life. So, we know it's not the fuel pump. Check the connections with a multimeter, we have voltage where we should and grounds where we should. So relay is working, wires are good. Finally we find a schematic of the fuel system and go hunting for the MFI (Engine) Control Relay. Well, I don't know how it happened since it's inside the car, but when we pulled it, it was rusty as all get out. We replaced it and the car still didn't want to start. Checked for fuel pressure at the rail, yup, we got fuel. So we sprayed some starter fluid into the intake and it finally fired up and ran. But it's not running how it ran when it died on me back in July. This car has been extremely reliable until this point. It's not a race car, but it will do 55-60 comfortably and get 38mpg doing it. Well, after it starts it's idling very rough, surging from 500-1500 rpm. We let it run for about 30 minutes and it continues to surge the entire time but doesn't stall. So I take it out for a test drive, as long as I only give it partial throttle 10-15% it gets up to speed in an acceptable amount of time. But anything more than that and it bogs down and will not accelerate. So I drive it home and park it.
The next day, I change the spark plugs, fill it up with some fresh gas, top off all the fluids and throw some Lucas fuel treatment into the tank. It started much better, but still surges, just not as badly as before. And the acceleration problem remains. I'm going to replace the wires next and see how things go and I've also ordered a new MAF and some other goodies. Oh, car has 133,000 miles on it. I do not know if the timing belt was ever changed and nobody in my family remembers if it was done either. I'm leaning towards being on borrowed time and the timing kit is one of the goodies mentioned. So, I've got a busy weekend coming up. But, I have to get this car back on the road so that my wife who is now commuting 140miles round trip per day can save some money on gas.
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I have a Check engine light on. I was driving up to go skiing and i was going up a hill, so i downshifted to 4th and the engine bogs down and the check engine light comes on, and it wont let me accelerate beyond 3000 RPM. I pull off at the next exit and turn the car off and go skiing(I was already there, I drove all the way and I figured I might as well ski). I come back after a few hours and head home, Im taking it easey but i notice that it seems to drive normal now, but the CEL is still on. What the problem could be? I have already had both turbos replaced and the last month the ecu was reprogrammed for throwing up faulty codes. But this time there may be something wrong with the engine.
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I have a 2012 GLS automatic with 78,000 miles on it. Till now I never had any issues but recently I started having issues with starting the car. Its taking few tried to get it started. This happened 3 times and I got it checked at 2 places and they said everything (battery, starter, alternator) looks OK and they may not be able to find the issue until car breaks down as issue looks intermittent.
Later one time, I was driving on local road and car kept moving but I felt a small jerk like engine is stopping or gear shifting...and RPM fell to 0 but car kept moving. I stopped on the shoulder and turned off the ignition. After few trials, car started again and moved fine. This same issue happened today morning on the fwy when I am driving at 70 mph. It started after few trials.
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This morning I went to go to work, started to back out of the drive, and the transmission locked up. So I go to put it in first gear, let off the clutch, and the engine bogs down like its in 5th gear. I then decided I will just push it back in the drive, so I put it in neutral, let off the clutch, and its still in a gear while in neutral. Last night it drove fine before parking it, and then when waking up its broke. What could be wrong?
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Just got a new 2013 Accent 6 speed manual. Love it but one thing concerns me. When I am disengaging the clutch and giving gas to get the car going, there is some vibration and feedback that just doesn't feel right. It is as if I learning to drive stick again and I am not shifting smoothly. This only happens going into 1st gear from a stop.
When I first drove the car I just assumed that I would get the feel of it but it seems like a little more than that. Is this normal?
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VW says I might need a new clutch. I have 85k on original. When are your clutches going? Do I need to change the dmflywheel as well?
i thought it might be a bad synchro. It only does it when warmed up and on downshifts. I can let the rpms drop all the way down before shifting and it will grind. rev matching i think still grinds. wont do it cold.
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Car is a 2001 Accent 1.6L 4 door automatic with about 130,000 miles on it.
Transmission shifts correctly into reverse, drive, neutral as well as manually shifting into 2nd and 1st. When in drive I will accelerate perfectly through 1st gear, shifts smoothly into 2nd gear then the problem arises. The car will shift ok into 3rd, but if I let off the gas to coast to a light or a corner, etc, the transmission physically downshifts or locks up in 3rd (like driving a stick, ie the car has drag like the converter is locked instead of freely coasting). It feels like 3rd gear but could be 2nd. When I go to accelerate again without coming to a stop the car has this same feeling of drag with no power and speeds up very slowly (almost like i am pulling something behind the car or am in a gear that is too high). If I give it enough gas to force a downshift it really slams that downshift. While the car accelerates through the rpm range after this downshift it will rev past the normal up-shift rpm until it finally slams into the higher gear. Or if i hold the gas steady at the higher rpm the car will suddenly slam into the higher gear. after all of this nonsense the car drives perfect through to OD. The problem is much worse going uphill and is consistent every time it is driven.
Also, sometimes the car would shake and vibrate when hitting the gas during this "drag feeling" until i let go and did it again. This is pretty random compared to the main problem but also seems to happen while the car is in 2nd or 3rd. This has been happening for about 5 months now and as far as i know was sudden. And on another note it suddenly was shifting fine the other day while driving it. I haven't driven it since then but this completely stumped me, as most problems will do when they magically disappear.
There is no check engine light, OD works fine and the car does not go into the safety mode where it will shift to 3rd gear on the highway. It's city driving that is the real headache (2nd and 3rd gear difficulties). Would the pulse generators cause this? bad TCM? i haven't scanned anything yet but will be within the next few days(at pep boys or similar) as well as ohming out pga and pgb. i have found resistance readings for pgb but nothing for pga, what should pga read? fluid is also within acceptable amount and color.
My initial thoughts were dirty or stuck solenoids/valves in the valve body and i was going to do a filter and fluid change with a quick valve body cleaning and check. But after researching on here I am starting to think it may be electrical. The only reason I put my scenario up is because it seems that everybody else who is having a similar problem is also having the "no reverse" or "shifting into 3rd on the highway" problems while i am not. On a random note, for my own piece of mind, how do the pulse generators work? Are they just reading ticks on a gear cog in the tranny or something? fluid flow?
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I have had my manual 2014 four months now and still can't get used to the fact, that to engage reverse you have to move the stickshift FORWARD into the same spot as first gear. I have had a half dozen near wrecks because of this.
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My gfs car (2012 accent) makes a rattle but more specifically it makes this rattle in about 3 gear under acceleration but not heavy acceleration (slow accelerate in a higher gear) at about 1500-2k rpm it makes a rattle and if i really get on it in the gear it keeps going, the second i let off then get back on (lightly) no noise but when you depress the pedal a little hard it does it again (auto trans by the way) I've heard of this before only issue is I don't remember where or who (useless, and wasn't a hyundai accent) anyway anything would be useful, car isn't under warranty so trying to stay out of dealership...
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2002 Hyundai Accent with automatic transmission. This problem happens only if I floor the gas gas on the highway (trying to pass somebody or get out of the way in a hurry) or if I apply too much gas after coasting around a sharp turn. My car will then downshift with a jerk and an audible THUNK!. Right now I just avoid those situations and it shifts through all its gears fine, it only happens when I cause a sudden downshift. Transmission fluid level and color fine.
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2002 Hyundia Accent -- 1.6 DOHC 2D
When I get to 2700-2900 RPM Under load my car will chug out (basically lose power all together for a brief second) then it will come back and chug out again. I am able to max out RPM's while doing this however under load it still chugs along. WHEN not under load it rev's up fine and purr's like a kitten.
So I went and got a new motor for this car same model as was in the car before a 1.6 DOHC. However upon replacing it (also attached still was the timing belt and clutch assembly, never taken off)
So it seems to be getting spark just fine. and I replaced the MAP sensor thinking it was a intake issue however still problem exists when I am under load between 2700 - 2900 RPM it bogs out for a second losing all power.
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We have a 2007 Limited that we love everything about except the way the transmission downshifts to first gear when it seems to me it should stay in second. My inlaws have a 2007 XLS and it doesn't do this. This is our third Avalon and the only one to do this. The dealer we bought from says this is normal but I strongly disagree. Is there a service bulletin on this or what else can be done.
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I've noticed lately in auto mode (not in sport mode) when I'm going downhill on a section (doing maybe 45-50 mph) of road and apply the brakes, the transmission wants to downshift automatically to 5th gear. I know in Sport mode if you are not using paddle shifters this seems normal. I don't think this is normal in just auto mode, non sport.
I don't think mine is normal as I don't remember it downshifting this much in auto mode. I'm thinking fluid level needs to be checked. I know there is a sensor in the transmission that senses the angle of the car so not sure if it's being overly aggressive or not.
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My girlfriend has a 2007 Volkswagen Rabbit, and she said that occasionally when she slows down as she's getting off the freeway her car downshifts from third to first really quickly and she's concerned. She took it to the dealer but, of course, they couldn't tell what was wrong because it only happens on occasion. They said it might have something to do with the brakes pumping if she slows down too fast. The car has 60,000 miles on it.
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Dad has a Hyundai Accent that hasn't had the best service history. After discovering this I started doing minor stuff (oil & filter, spark plugs, etc) on the car. The car has done 119,000km and about 2 months ago I decided to change the auto trans fluid and filter, I don't think its ever been done before and the fluid was pretty bad. I followed the tutorials exactly and everything was fine until yesterday. It seems the car get stuck in 3rd and downshifts badly when coming to a stop. When I last drove it I got home and quickly opened up the hood. I could see smoke coming from somewhere near the trans and there was a bad smell. We haven't driven the car since and I don't know what the problem is. I've checked on google and some people have used a scanning tool to get the error code, but the car doesn't throw a check engine light so will the error code be there?
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I've noticed that when I'm coasting to a stop and my speed gets to about 27 MPH, the transmission downshifts (RPMs increase) until I reach about 22 MPH. I'm not applying the brakes at the time.
It's a bit annoying as it sometimes bleeds off just enough speed that I need to accelerate to reach the point I was planning to stop at. Is this normal?
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I have a 2012 Camry with the 4 cyl. engine & auto transmission and get 33 to 35 mpg on trips, runs fine, smoothly and good power. The only downside about the car is that it will downshift one gear an what I consider to be very minor rises, and if a bit steeper will downshift another gear. This occurs when I am using the cruise control, when not using the cruise control I can easily maintain speed without the downshift. I assume that it causes no harm, at least I hope so, but it is very annoying and disconcerting to me. Can this be rectified by recalibration of the cars computer?
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I have the 12 Accent GL Auto, I have about 161,000 km, and recently say 3 months I've been hearing/feeling this click click noise come from under the car whenever I am in "manual" mode in 1st gear coming from a stop, now I`m 99% sure its not the brakes releasing because I just replaced both my caliper's in the rear and pads and rotors all the way around, And I know this sound because I've had the problem (twice) were my brakes stick so I'm very familiar with that sound this is something different, I want to say transmission because it only does this in 1st gear manual mode, but i know where the transmission is on this car, and this sound isn't coming from where the transmission is, more like under the firewall ( where the trans would be on a RWD car).
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Ok so this one is pretty hard to explain. I was driving home from school, doing about 55 in fifth gear. Out of no where, my car started to bog very hard and slow down. I pulled into a lot and as I was in the entrance of the lot the car haulted itself but stayed on. I say there for about a minute, then put it in 1st and drove into a parking spot. I stayed there for a little, then drove home in the right lane and it seems to be back to normal. I also did a few test pulls and it felt a little laggy but that might just be in my head. It's a 2012 golf r, 37k miles with just an EVOMs intake. Stock otherwise. What this could be? Don't want to get stuck on the highway somewhere if this happens again.
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